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WKM

Digital Track Design

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Hi Guys

I'm building a new track this will be my third track, except this time I'm considering going digital actually more like a hybrid track.

Four analogue lanes and three digital lanes 1-3. As this is my first digital track I need some advice on a few things.

where is the best place to have lane changes? In the pic below I've put them where I think will work but I need some opinion from some people that have raced digital. What are the advantages and disadvantages of having changes in the straight or in the corners?

Do I need to use magnabraid?

How well does the 3M tape hold down the magnabraid when subjected to cars with magnets or do I need to use adhesive?

When the zinc and copper coating wears down and exposes the steel does it cause issues?

 

BI-FOLD%20PD1.png

 

BI-FOLD%20RACEWAY%20PD2.jpg

Edited by WKM

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Hi WKM,

I probably wouldn't put lane changes on or near a corner as there is too much to think about with corners as it is.

Unless all racers are using slot.it contollers, they have a 3 second lane change button.

In my opinion only, I think lane changes are best placed 1m into a straight if a fast corner, closer for slower corners, this allows the car to straighten and sensor to be picked up.

 

Nice layout, will be good to follow this build.


Cheers Grant

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I would recommend only having lane changers on the straights away from the corners to maximise reliability of hitting the sensors. Magnabraid has lots of advantages, but it is expensive and needs to be rebated + laid accurately. The 3m tape has worked well on my tracks, I did spend quite a bit of time degreasing the braid before laying. I don't run many magnet cars on my tracks though.

 

I like your track design.

 

 


Hoo Roo

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Hi Wayne,

I can't comment on the digital aspect of your design but looking at it from a marshaling perspective, I wondering about being able to reach a deslotted car particularly at the exit to turn 1 and the following straight. Also at turn 5 with a car out of the slot under the bridge, might make for some fairly nasty "pile ups" Reversing direction may reduce any potential problems perhaps.

Apart from those bits I quite like the design. Which way will it be facing in the garage? I'm assuming from the radiused legs that the driver's panel will be on the opposite side from the old track so you can roll the track up againts the wall.

Cheers

Alan

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Yup definitely the pits are in the wrong position and too many pit bays. I would put more or mice corner LCs to end of straights. Also you only need 2 lanes maybe 3 not 4.

Each LC should be duplicated next to each other like lane 1 to 2 should be 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 also.

Edited by aussieslotter

www.scorpiuswireless.com

The original wireless digital system that GRUNTZ! :)

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Very impressive project!

 

Considering the scope of what you are building , I'd recomend using magnabraid.

 

It's very difficult to change the braid if you later decide that you want magnabraid, but used standard copper.

If you have kids or new people using the track, magnets can help them while they learn.

If you have a car that is just useless, adding a magnet or two (quick fix) can save it from staying on the shelf, or going in the bin.

It (magnabraid) looks great when it's new :-)

 

Q. Does T2 fold down before tilting the track against a wall, it looks like the track would be very high when tilted up?


www.sydneyslotcars.com

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Thanks for you input, its very helpful in reducing any potential costly mistakes.

 

I would recommend only having lane changers on the straights away from the corners to maximise reliability of hitting the sensors. Magnabraid has lots of advantages, but it is expensive and needs to be rebated + laid accurately. The 3m tape has worked well on my tracks, I did spend quite a bit of time degreasing the braid before laying. I don't run many magnet cars on my tracks though.

 

I like your track design.

 

Hi Camber

I've had similar advise from SCR club members regarding braid cleaning prior to applying 3M tape. SCR also is magnet free racing an if I wasn't going digital I probably wouldn't bother using magnabraid.

 

 

Hi Wayne,

I can't comment on the digital aspect of your design but looking at it from a marshaling perspective, I wondering about being able to reach a deslotted car particularly at the exit to turn 1 and the following straight. Also at turn 5 with a car out of the slot under the bridge, might make for some fairly nasty "pile ups" Reversing direction may reduce any potential problems perhaps.

Apart from those bits I quite like the design. Which way will it be facing in the garage? I'm assuming from the radiused legs that the driver's panel will be on the opposite side from the old track so you can roll the track up againts the wall.

Cheers

Alan

 

Hi Alan

 

Yes I agree with your observation fortunately majority of offs happen at the entry to a corner, I have taken into consideration the extra reach required if a car happened to come off in the middle between T1 and start of T2. The Idea is to have a marshal on each side of T2 one a T1 and one at T6,T7. Marshaling under the bridge is always an issue, originally I had T1 closer to the middle but opted for the extra track length.

Yes the drivers station will be on the opposite side to the old track. Once I'm happy with the layout and lane changes I will complete the model including garage and people just to give some perspective.

 

 

Yup definitely the pits are in the wrong position and too many pit bays. I would put more or mice corner LCs to end of straights. Also you only need 2 lanes maybe 3 not 4.

Each LC should be duplicated next to each other like lane 1 to 2 should be 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 also.

 

Hi Rick

You have been very helpful in the early stages, here is a pick of your early suggestion. The reason for having the pits in the middle was simply the real estate that was available, also I had plans for track scenery on the inside. If I move the pits to the straight before T1 I will only have about 4 pit bays and no pit garages unless I make them removable. The plan is to only have three of the lanes L1, L2 and L3 as digital lanes L4 will only be used in analogue mode.

 

 

rick%20scorpius.jpg

 

 

 

Very impressive project!

 

Considering the scope of what you are building , I'd recomend using magnabraid.

 

It's very difficult to change the braid if you later decide that you want magnabraid, but used standard copper.

If you have kids or new people using the track, magnets can help them while they learn.

If you have a car that is just useless, adding a magnet or two (quick fix) can save it from staying on the shelf, or going in the bin.

It (magnabraid) looks great when it's new :-)

 

Q. Does T2 fold down before tilting the track against a wall, it looks like the track would be very high when tilted up?

 

Yes Drifter the T2 section will fold down which is why Im thinking of calling the new track Bi-Fold Raceway :) . The main reason for building a new track is to reduce the setup time to 5-10min.


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Hi WKM,

Nice looking track, what system will you be using?

Dave

 

Scorpius is my first choice

I like the features and timing software.


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Personally I prefer them at the end of the straight near a braking point. If you are going to route them then you can also have them extra long and place them in the middle of the straights.

As long as you do not put them just after a corner, I do not see why you need magnabraid.

I do not know if you have room for this, but I would prefer to have the pitlane near the driver rostrum so that you can service your car while in the pit (clean tyres, adjust braids, etc. without leaning too much on the track to block others view.


Cheers

G

 

"I am an expert at the top of my field when mowing the lawn".

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By the way, the slot.it controller 2 sec latch lane changing function only works when the universal digital cartridge is used.

If you are using an oXigen cartridge then this function is not available anymore because the two lane change buttons will work in selective mode: the up button will only activate a lane changer that moves you up in an external lane, the down button will only operate on a lane changer that moves you in. Very useful when you have a close sequence of lane changers (like a XLC before a pit lane entry).


Cheers

G

 

"I am an expert at the top of my field when mowing the lawn".

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I have finally started the build, here is a pic of the track laid out on the garage floor.

 

20170620_202054.jpg


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Hi Guys

Ive had some delays building the track, as I needed to do some much needed repair/renovations to the garage.

Anyway, I thought I would post a tip to paint the slot, I was getting frustrated with just using a small brush trying to get the paint to the bottom of the slot and ending up over painting the braid recess.

 

Use a 10ml syringe while traversing along the slot about 1 meter squeezing the paint in at the same time. Then use a small brush to spread the paint, as you traverse the slot with the paintbrush, paint should build up in the slot and flow out onto the braid recess, very easy! Cut my under coating time down by at least 50% with excellent coverage as well.

 

20170702_124024_002.jpg

 

20170702_124208_004.jpg

Edited by WKM

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Yep, that's the way to do it, employed that trick myself on my track, saw it somewhere on here, can't remember where though.

 

Good to the build back on the move.

Edited by ZeGas

Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Ive also spent some time developing a 3D printed flipper and lane changer mechanism.

 

My first attempt was designed with a 400mm length lane change. Im using a $3.20 solenoid from Ebay

http://www.ebay.com....353.m1438.l2649

 

20170228_224911.jpg

 

 

During the track design phase I decided to increase the length to 600mm mainly to reduce the lane change angle. The downside was the flipper length also increased, if I increased the length to 800mm the flipper became longer and thinner which was impractical to print and mayde susceptible to damage.

20170806_151524.jpg

20170806_151549.jpg

20170806_151616.jpg

20170806_152755.jpg

 

Edited by WKM

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Now your talking my language, good work.

 

FYI to embed video simply remove the "s" from "https:"

 


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Looks cool! a bit like Steve's where there are some fast sections then the tricky bits. I see you have maintained the McElroy sweeper in this new layout.

I look forward to cutting some laps soon.


* Avatar used with permission

 

Normal people worry me

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It takes about 12-15 min to pack up, Im sure over time I will get quicker and reach my target of 5-10min

 

20180201_220047.jpg


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