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Chrisguyw

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Chrisguyw last won the day on May 12

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About Chrisguyw

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    Kart Driver

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    Canada

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    Toronto, Canada

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  1. Hi Matt, Your Brabhams' are from Marusan,......likely from 1965 as a lot of their cars from this year were equipped with the "posi lok" wheels, and ,sadly those god awful 3 prong nuts. The good news is that all your cars have the AT206 motor (green wire arm.) which is considerably "hotter" than the AT406 (brown wire arm) as seen on your Atlas Ferrari 158 Cheers Chris Walker PS a couple of shots of an Atlas Ferrari 158 done a few yeas ago.
  2. Hi Shayne,........I used a standard Slot-it screw in guide. and as far as the independent fronts.........I just solder a thin steel washer on to one end of an axle, the wheel on that side obviously does not need a set screw,....the other wheel is tightened to the axle. Cheers Chris Walker Here is an axle with the steel washer soldered on (the left side) ,.........not sure why I have a pic. of this axle with Crowns on it ???.......aahhh, ..just remembered, I was showing someone how much a Slot-it Crown could be taken down to fit in tight spaces
  3. Slow progress but finally done.................the chassis has been built to the new owners' club rules, so,.......a new guide, a 25K FC-130, drill blank axles, independently rotating front wheels, Sonic pinion, Slot-it Crown, and both the chassis and body dampened with silicone/urethane washers. Stock font tyres NSR Ultra rears, all glued/trued/treated. No weight as of yet,......the new owner can fiddle, depending on the needs of his club's various tracks. Cheers Chris Walker PS details on the changes to the body, decals, paint etc. are in my other "Rosberg" NSR McLaren thread.
  4. Hi Shane,.........a few answers. 1/ I wish I had a "vent" machine, but, the vents were done by hand,...and if I did not like the guy who it is going to , I would not have done them......a pain !! I traced the vents on to the bare shell with a sharpie/ruler, and then used a series of small drill bits to drill a series of holes which were then joined with a scalpel, and cleaned with files and sandpaper,.......did I mention, that they were a pain ???,......worth it though 2/ The Helmet is one of the "Interlagos" Miniatures that I have previously mentioned..........they do a ton of different drivers, and in person they look really good, and make any car !! The Macro I use does point out a few flaws, but, to the naked eye they are very very good...........may be a bit pricey for some. 3/ This car will be run in a club NSR F1 series, so , a custom chassis is a no go..........I will be using a "hard" NSR chassis plate with a few bits added, and as the tracks are all wood, the honking great FK180, will be replaced with an equally potent (and 10gm+ lighter) FC-130. Cheers Chris Walker
  5. Hello all,....I have been asked to do a "Rosberg" edition of the McLaren MP4/2C that he ran in practice for the 1986 Portuguese GP.......this was the only appearance of this car in the Marlboro "Light" colours. As it is for his club NSR F1 series, I have obviously used one of the NSR white kits. I did want it to look a touch closer to the actual car, so a few simple body mods have been made.......the sidepods have had the holes for the top mounted intakes filled, the side vents have been closed in, vents cut into the top rear of the sidepods, and the wing has been lowered approx. 1/8th. The rear wing has to be painted/decaled, some more suitable wing mirrors need to be made, detail bits to be sorted, and , the whole thing clearcoated. Still lots to be done.................. I thought that the interior was more or less done,........until I look at the close up Macro lens shots ..............right glove, hole in left shoulder, and a bit of helmet clean up need to be done,.....but, without the evil Macro lens highlighting these mistakes, it actually looks quite nice . I did add some gauges to the dash, but, they can not be seen from this angle. I will post updates when done ......both the body, and the chassis build. Cheers Chris Walker
  6. Precisely !!!,..........this complete assembly (motor/axle, gears/wheels )can rotate torsionally, as a complete unit,.... as a motor pod can do in its chassis plate......this torsional rotation of the whole assembly allows the outside tyre to load and compress progressively, improving grip and handling. You do not want any movement in the triangle formed by the motor shaft (pinion), and the rear axle/axle uprights. Cheers Chris Walker
  7. He certainly is Den, but,...it is considerably less stiff than the Scaleauto RT3 "red" pods.........far less critical on plastic, but, very noticeable on wood. Cheers Chris Walker
  8. Pod movement and torsional flex in the chassis plate are the elements that provide "suspension",......there should be absolutely no movement of the axle in relationship to the motor shaft/pinion. Many motor pods (Slot-it included) are quite flimsy, and do allow some independent "twist" of the axle uprights...........Slot-it themselves introduced a "wire" brace for the rear of their inline motor pods, and while the intent was good, the design, and effectiviness,...not so much!! Chris Walker
  9. A couple of answers to a couple of questions............ 1/ The paint colour on the M6 is Tamiya TS 58 "Light Pearl Blue".........shot right out of the can. 2/ The triangle formed by pinion (motor shaft), and the rear axle bushings should be as stiff as possible, in any motor configuration (inline,sidewinder.anglewinder)..........flex in this area causes, axle binding, gear mesh issues, and, axle hop,........none of which are highly recommended for quick lap times nor longevity. The stiffness in this area becomes more important with,...stronger motors, grippier tyres, fast/flowing tracks (anything that generates more load/twisting force on the rear of the car. 3/ While improving the rigidity of the rear end "triangle" is absolutely worthwhile, it is far less critical on plastic tracks, where the relative lack of grip, and the bumpy nature of the track (the rear tyres are likely off the track as much as on, when running on plastic), lessens its effectiveness. 4/ The Scaleauto RT3 "RED" motor pods are the stiffest pods currently on the market, and need no modifications 5/ Keith, I do not always disagree with you Cheers Chris Walker
  10. Hi Rosco, The axle brace is actually the "U" shaped brace across the rear of the pod, and ,as mentioned in my prior post, it ties the axle uprights together, eliminating independent flexing of the uprights/bushings. which for a variety of reasons, is not all that good. Motor bracket bracing was seen starting in the mid 60's with most of the top pro racers using,..gussets, brass sheet.wire etc. to stop flexing of the motor bracket, and anything one can do to improve the stiffness of the current crop of flimsy plastic motor pods is a very good idea. More than a dozen years ago Sloting Plus came out with an axle tube that had bushings installed in the tube, and they worked wonders, I bought a bunch, and use them in any motor pod I can. A couple of shots of the brace made for the TSlot motor pod...........a piece of .055 wire bent to fit snuggly into the chassis, and secured with Locktite 380. A SlotingPlus axle tube installed into an NSR pod.......it works wonders And a Eurosport chassis...soldered spring steel, with a wire brace tying both axle uprights together. And a recent build of a very early 70's style chassis with an axle tube.............independent flexing of the rear uprights, has always been a bad thing Cheers Chris Walker
  11. It stops the rear uprights flexing independently,........this can ....1/ cause the axle to bind, 2/ cause mesh issues, and 3/ result in chatter.........none of which are all that good for helping with lap times Cheers Chris Walker
  12. Hi Folks, This car has been built for an upcoming CanAm proxy (1966-1974), and looks to have entries from a few countries While I do prefer to enter scratchbuilt chassied cars, time constraints this year (my golf club has just opened)....I have decided to take the quick and easy route and put together , a Thunderslot chassis, under a Thunderslot M6. I built two variations, with one going to a fellow club member........still undecided on which one to run for myself as they both are very very close in consistency and lap times. Cheers Chris Walker The first is an anglewinder pod, with an NSR 22K, MRSlotcar gearing, silicone damped pod, and a rear axle brace, running on NSR Ultras. The second is a Sidewinder pod (although the T.Slot pods are a 2 degree angle !!, so sidewinder is a bit of a misnomer )..........with a Piranha 21K motor, and essentially the same bits as the other. As I don't like running duplicate liveries, I have done a fantasy livery, which I think looks period correct.
  13. Keep on tuning Mark !!!,....I can tell you that whatever issues may exist with the R8, you can certainly eliminate issues with the pod. Cheers Chris Walker
  14. Anything you can do to make the triangle formed by the pinion, and the rear bushings as stiff as possible (torsionally, and longitudinally) will pay huge dividends........it will........eliminate independent flexing of the rear uprights which will cause axle binding, and chatter,..it will eliminate "axle tramping" which is seen as hop under hard acceleration (this is also seen when a chassis is too soft longitudinally), and it will improve the consistency of gear mesh, which will help with both performance and longevity. Braces, axle tubes, securing the motor etc. all help, and if you are looking for something quick and easy, you might try one of the ScaleAuto RT3 "Red" motor pods............these are the stiffest, best braced, motor pods on the market (to date) bar none..........if you are not using one, try one,... you will notice a significant difference. Cheers Chris Walker
  15. Hi Mark, Replacing/modifying the "self aligning" bushes in any pod is a good idea for a couple of reasons........1/ self aligning also means "self unaligning" , and , 2/ in order for the bush to move /align in its carrier, there must be some room for the bush to move, so some "slop" is present...(as you have found out/described above). While this will not really be felt on plastic tracks (inherently rough/bumpy), it is much more apparent on wood tracks, and is magnified as you up the motor power/grip. There are a couple of options............ 1/ Glue in the spherical bushings.........You can use a dremel disc (if you have steady hands) to slightlly open the slots between the "fingers" that hold the bushes.......install the bushes/axle, and using a toothpick etc., put a few drops of CA into the slots. Notes..... You should always install a motor into the pod before installing/gluing any bushings, as the motor can distort the bushing uprights. Use the new(er) sintered bronze spherical bushes from Slo-it, instead of the older solid brass/bronze ones. On any pod with spherical bushes (whether glued or not).....take a few thou. off of the outside face of the "fingers",..enough to expose the outer face of the bush. This will ensure that your wheels/spurs/spacers, run on a smooth flat surface....this will improve precision, and, reduce friction. Below is a typical pod with spherical bushes just popped in.............you can see that the face of the bush is recessed (and clearly not even), which will result in wheels/gears etc. rubbing on the plastic fingers of the pod. I have used a file/dremel disc etc. to remove a few thou. off of the plastic fingers, leaving the edge of the bush exposed........much less friction, and more precision when setting lateral axle movement. The slightly raised portion of the bush also makes a very handy "fence" should you wish to glue the bushings in place. 2/ Replacing the spherical bushings You can certainly use ballraces in place of the spherical bushes, but, it is my experience, that quality does cost a bit, and cheap ballraces are far worse than a good quality oilite. Cheap ballraces, have poor quality components, and invariably have far less precision than oilites,.....they also do not hold oil, like a sintered bushing, so do require some constant care/maintenance/oiling, so, far from ideal for long proxy type events. (This applies to the cheap ballraced motors you can buy...if they are cheap, they are cheap for a reason !!) So if you want to invest a few dollars ($10/15 per ballrace) go right ahead, if not, you will be much better off with a pr. of quality single flanged oilites for $2/3 a pr. Cheers Chris Walker
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