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rosco01

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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. Amazing work, Chris.... end result will be another stunner. I now have two T/S Moslers.. the yellow anniversary one is a beautiful car - not so much in love with the Martini one... but apparently, they go well. Both of mine have A/W drive-lines. frats, Rosco
  2. Thanks again, Chris. You have given me more to strive for when I tune a model..... we have all heard of the "fire triangle"... now we have the "drive triangle".... simples.... frats, Rosco
  3. When I get to them, I'll run a report thread on this Chris..... I'm certain now from what you post - that I can effect some tuning of these pods. From memory, the rear pod suspension arrangement was such that an adjustable screw set both extremes of pod travel. Two screws at the front of the pod afforded greater control of fine tuning. Differing spring tensions were available.. from a very soft to a fairly firm. I believe I set mine with something in the mid-range... my track is really not that bad - but it's plastic track - and the factory undulations ire identical in each straight piece... I really look after my track, it is cleaned and the running rails wiped down with Inox before being all packaged up in the original boxes and stored until next use.... I have always been this way since purchasing my first D straight in 1966..... a discipline which I simply can't bring myself not to continue with... I believe the U shaped piano wire addition and some 380 will bring the componentry of the pod to a much more rigid state.. and very much look forward to learning of what effect this upgrade will bring to each model. Of all the piano wire chassis models I have now constructed - each of them has that rigid U shaped rear bracket - the motor firmly locked to it by screws, and the axle secured in place by the soldered in brass/bronze bushes... it is this that we wish to replicate in commercial plastic etc chassis pods... I have had great success with some earlier Scalextric models which never ran right - a Triumph TR-7 and a Mk1 Escort immediately come to mind. There was so much flex of the rear axle/pinion arrangement in those models that they bound up continually... and flexed out causing gear teeth chomping. I corrected this as best I could with heavy applications of JB-weld with some wire embedded into it - it made a huge difference to the performance and longevity of the drive-train.... With the Slot-It chassis - each of my GT-40's (I think there are 8) - I stripped the chassis and re-learned the plastic in the hot bath/long cool process.. using a flat metal plate and magnets to keep it perfectly flat until the plastic re-learned itself... Each of those models was a lot easier to set up once the chassis was true... none of them came out of the factory with it in a flat plane.... some were close, but none of them could be positioned on a set-up plate with trued wheels and tyres without one wheel lifting when the opposite side/end was pushed down on the plate. Probably didn't do a lot for plastic track use - but it certainly made them better performers when I used to take them to a club wood set up..... Plastic track is for people who don't have room for a wood layout.. I'm convinced of this... I'd love to have room to make one - but like just so many things in my life - each hobby only has enough room/storage for a certain percentage overall.... I yearn for space, but understand I'd simply fill it with more "stuff".... frats, Rosco
  4. Thanks Chris, all questions thus far answered and acknowledged. I'll take a closer look at the suspension system fitted to my Slot-It GT40 fleet.. but, from memory, that triangle is fixed - I'll make it more rigid. I firmly (excuse pun) believe it's the pod that affords suspension - not the rear axle. I can't for the life of me come to believe that Slot-It would create such a fault... but, I'll check when I open the vault again in four or five months' time... next planned return to the hobby. Will PM you and explain pending break..... frats, Rosco
  5. Busy as all heck at present, Warren... in matters outside hobbies. Slot cars have been locked away in the "vault" for six or seven weeks now.. with only the LJ body free to work on when I have time (rare). I had never considered a brace across the back of a plastic chassis... not fully appreciating just how much flex occurs under load from the motor to the wheels. It may explain some of the strange noises I have been listening to for decades.... in particular, the Scalextric GT-40 Mk 2's that I have a couple of... one is better than the other, but I now expect that it is firmer.... they will both get the piano wire bracket addition - and we'll note if it improves/removes this apparent mysterious noise... I will have much to do when I return to the hobby later on in the year. It was a rush to get the Tasman Cup proxy car up and posted.... with that out of the way, I was able to mothball slot car projects for now, hence my absence from the forum of late. I have purchased a second T/S Mosler - bit unfair to only run one in competition - so, I will have two when the second arrives. Also - the Winfield Slot-It Skyline and Peter/Phil Brock's Scalextric A9-X are both on pre-order... Apologies for swamping your thread, Chris.... still keen to learn what weights you used on the M6A... and what paint/colour you created such a lovely looking period model with... frats, Rosco
  6. Thanks Chis - my learning curve has just "tilted" skywards. I have absolutely no experience of this new-to-me support, but fully expect that it will now be incorporated into every model I either purchase or strip down for a refit.... I have many Slot-It models - all with this same apparent ability to flex - I'll compare one against the other as progression is made through the fleet. In all the Slot-It GT-40's I have - I have installed the optional rear suspension system... it works a treat on Scalextric plastic track - being able to balance out undulations laterally across the track... I have yet to strip one of these down, but believe the fitting of this new-fandangled (to me) can be incorporated.... it's the tilting/twisting alignment of the axle in the pod which is the issue.... if the motor goes with the suspension, the incorporation of such bracket will ensure that the assembly stays rigid as one... yet, the axle can "float" up/down in the chassis to smooth out contact with the imperfect track... I'll take a very close look at this, Chris - but, I can attest that the fitting of the suspension springs/assembly to these GT40 models most certainly affords better times on poor plastic track.... which is all that I have. Thanks for your reply - any word on the weights used in your T/S chassis....? frats, Rosco
  7. Lovely work - again, Chris..... I have the same white kit yet to be started on. First I've seen of using an axle brace - if I am not wrong, this is the "L" shaped bracket across the rear of the pod - held down by screws and Nylocs...? Did you fabricate this yourself, of is it commercially marketed? Also, what did you use for your weights?.... they seem dull like lead - from lead sheet? Love the livery - simple, but very clean and "just" the right amount of decals. Paint? We have stumbled onto a new paint supplier here in Oz.... SMS. The chap is a long term modeler and has ventured into developing, producing and marketing his own product. It is all acrylic lacquer - and he goes a long way into explaining what the product is. It comes pre-thinned for air brush use in a 30 ml bottle - but he also supplies thinners, retarders and levelers.... I have not sprayed a slot car with it yet... but results from other models have been extremely pleasing. It flows out beautifully from the brush and dries very quickly. The clear coat is probably the clearest I have yet used, and dries to a hard shell-like coating. I have not applied it over decals as yet.... but I read that it is not as invasive as many of other manufacturers.... a mist coat prior to a wet coat seems to appease most decals.... will report when I've had a play. He further markets a number of very fine pigmented 2K colours and some "colour shifts". Looking forward to getting an optic on your second model. frats, Rosco
  8. Chas, if you've used Post Image before - should still be the same. Only issue I have is that each pic has to be sent separately, and I then have to go back and select and upload the next one. Simply "copy image" by clicking right on the second bottom image location once uploaded - then pasting it into your forum thread by again clicking right and "paste"... frats, Rosco
  9. Thanks Chas....put a bit of work into it, but not as much as my previous entry a couple of years back. This one does not have the same top end speed that #1 did... not sure what it is..... same motor, wheels, gears etc. etc... might just be a motor which needs a bit of running before it comes on song... However, it was ticking over nicely without any binding at just 1.1v.... #1 was around that on completion.. we'll see.... main thing, those who are privileged to enjoy running the entire field during events enjoy them..... and that none are subjected to needing any repairs during the series... Yes, there must be a bit of the field still in transit - every confidence they'll make the scrutineer's paddock well before start of proceedings... frats, Rosco
  10. Beautiful work... frats, Rosco
  11. Ok folk, front mounts are done.... I have left the third centre mount in situ for now... can't see that I'll need it, but it always seems to result that when you start to cut something out - you find a reason why you should not have... so, I'm leaving it there for now.... long way to go before the body is finished... chassis is now done, so that's a big part of the build out of the way... I chose this as my final ride height - it's a bit of a compromise between full on proto and soaking up a little bit of that low hanging brass side plate... see what you think? I have had a long hard look at the guide and leads... and believe I have come out of this a lot better than originally feared. I can leave the lower grill intake complete, I do need to shave a small radius from the inner rear to allow for the guide bolt and washer - but to my relief, the leads will run through the intake... and when I trim them to size - should not present any ugly issue - or compromise the full arc of the guide in either direction... so, I have had a win here.... the guide is as far forward as I would care to take it.... the very front sits under the bumper.. so we don't see it looking down... it looks ugly, but this is to be expected for a sedan body I expect.... with this very high ride height... And here we can see my work re-inventing the front body posts... the original post remains in the centre.. I will clean all this area up before finishing the body... These new posts allow the body to sit exactly where I want it on the chassis... I'll open out the holes in the chassis a tad to create some body float... I can now return to work on the body, some of the rear bumper has been inked in Molotow... and the rear taillights.... I will mask up the front and ink the surrounds for the grille and headlights.. then black out the excess.... when happy, I'll fit the brass grille in... and we then need to sort out headlights... so, before I get to the interior - I have a bit of work to go yet... until next... frats, Rosco
  12. A-2 did really well with her wing, Bondy gave permission to lift her skirts after winning the series...... I've already shown what's under the hemline on this little car, Shaynus.... Yes, posts are now setting in JB.. I believe I've got the ride height pretty accurate to Proto... we'll see when the wheel inserts go in... May have some issues with the front guide now - I'm hoping to get away without having to cut into the lower skirt under the grille - I re-positioned the guide after noting what Vinno did with his.... my guide is "just" not visible from above at the front.... but there will be issues with getting the leads back under the body... too early to call yet - chassis is now locked in position... so, we'll have to mess with the body if it all doesn't fit up.... it will be the top of the guide and leads where I come unstuck... not the end of the world, but I was hoping to keep all that area scale correct... might be too much to ask - end of the day, it's a slot car - not a bench showpiece... frats, Rosco
  13. Ok, job is done.... relatively easy to set up. I simply used the original centre hole in the post and fitted an M2 cap head up through it... placed the strip in position then tightened down a small nut when I was happy with position.... then "wick" soldered the joint.. cleaned it up and all done. I will now cut two short lengths of styrene tube and screw them to these holes.... trim them to size and then set the body in position... and finally JB weld them to the body... Pix... Back tomorrow with some pix of the new posts in position.. and hopefully, a satisfactory report on removing that tilt.... frats, Rosco
  14. Thanks Bram, I was actually thinking on fitting some vertical styrene card strips on the edge of the brass side panels.... and painting them matt black.... they could be positioned inside the body sills and yet proved float for the body to pass over them........ not sure yet, we are still contemplating getting rid of the tilting issue. I spent a bit of time thinking on the matter today - and now believe I'll run a 0.40 mm brass strip laterally across the front body mount post of the chassis. This will allow me to remove the centre body post at the front and fit two replacements - one each side... it should completely resolve any tendency for the body to sit cock-eyed.... The 0.40 mm brass strip has a tiny bit of flexiblity - yet, if under compression - will return the body to a central position once that load is removed (cornering etc).. I can solder this short piece of strip onto the top of the current brass post.... it doesn't need much to keep it in place. Overall effect will be less appealing... with the body removed - but to get the body to sit properly is probably a worthy compromise... will report once I've done the job... sadly, the chassis won't look neat once I do this work.... it will have "wings" inside it... I believe, as Munter suggests - it more appropriate to have two mount posts at the front.... and I will leave the single rear post.... as is. I will have to extend this proposed strip almost out to the front tyres - I will need access past the rails of the chassis to fit the mount screws... so, any thought on keeping this small strip short are out of any consideration... There will be a nice "hole" to run a screwdriver up behind the front wheels to access the mount screws - I'm pretty much convinced this is my best course of remedy... Watch this space... frats, Rosco
  15. Thanks OS-62.... yes, I have had some very positive suggestions thus far... amounting to providing at least three mounting points for a larger body than I have previously scratch built a chassis for.... At present, I am considering fitting two pads inside the sills of the body - and perhaps a short piece of wire from there down to the brass strips on the chassis.... Sadly, they sit very low and this will all be very obvious, even though I will paint them matt black. I had considered soldering a brass strip across the top of the rear chassis mount... and providing two posts in the back of the body... these would be better up front, but I can't justify adding weight so high up..... and will attempt the sill mounted pads and wire first..... if that looks too ungainly - I'll look at the brass strip across the rear... and finally the front... As mentioned, I am happy with the chassis and don't want to mess with it any further.... if I need to, it will be a last resort.. There may yet be another option which has neither been suggested or has come to mind yet... I am having a good think on this before I cut and thrust into action... Thanks for your reply, OS-62.... I do hope that we have all learned something from this, my first attempt at a sedan chassis.... frats, Rosco
  16. Ok folk, we have now completed the little Cooper and it awaits shipping off to the scrutineer's paddock in Adelaide.... So - now full time back on the LJ build. A bit has been done since last post, the chassis is complete and assembled - but, I have an issue with body mounts..... and ask the brains trust within for options/alternatives which may rectify the issue.... First up, some pix and a bit of a report... Here is the completed chassis sitting on a steel set-up block.... all four tyres sit true on the block, and there is just enough space under the guide for the braid to be fitted... I have work to do yet, and will leave the braid until the model is complete and is about to be placed on a track. The guide is held in place using an M2 cap head bolt, a lock nut and a brass washer. There is zero lash between the guide post and the tube - it took a bit of doing, but I found that using a newly purchased "ceramic" scraper blade gave me much more control in mating the two than previous use of a sanding block and fine wet/dry... the ceramic blade easily removed very fine amounts of any indicated binding of the guide post in the brass tube.... evidenced by the "rubbing" of brass on the post.... We can also see here, that I have again employed my now preferred method for providing an independent front wheel arrangement... tapping into the hollow axle tube with a 10 BA tap and the fitting of a 10 BA counter head screw to retain it in the tube.. This affords greater control over clearance between the front wheels in the axle tube. I have used 1/8" square brass rod for the tube in this build - but will revert back to round tube in future... I don't like the amount of slack between the square tube and the axle... it's not much, but I have found the round tube a closer fit.... Side on pic.... The next pic shows the front of the chassis in the set up plate. I am happy with all components and their placement here... As you can see, I also like to drill and tap the front of the guide so that M2 grub screws can be inserted to hold the contact lead securely inside the guide - this practice is yet to fail me for the few years I have included it in my builds and re-builds... I like using silicone leads... they are both flexible, and provide a little "return" to neutral setting on a de-slot. I ensure that equal lengths of this lead are used. You can also see that with this model, I have chosen to drill holes in the two plates which support the axle tube... I don't like leads "flopping" around un-necessarily inside a body.... these two holes keep the leads contained and allow them to "cross-over" and point towards their respective motor terminals... This Slot-It motor is a bit odd.... it has a red painted dot on one terminal, but the motor drives the rear axle in reverse if I use the right hand contact rail connected to this terminal..... the teeth of my crown are located on the right side of the rear axle, as I have done in other builds - yet, if I were to connect track positive to this terminal - the axle would drive in reverse... I'll get to the motor in a bit.... but the news is very, very good... Ok, here we can see the rear of the chassis - and in it, one area/problem I am yet to overcome.. the rear body mount. I drifted away from a rounded "U" shaped rear end of the chassis with this build - so that a rear body mount plate could be soldered on. The solder I am using has excellent holding ability, using my favored flux - the brass took to the piano wire very easily... and I was able to locate the rear mount plate exactly where I wanted it.... You can also see in the "corner" of this plate I have formed a right angled bend.... it is normally a difficult bend to make if simply placing the brass sheet in a vice, or between some flat faced pliers... this time, I used the Dremel with a very fine cutting wheel to scribe along the line of the bend.... and then used the vice and pliers to finish it off. Once formed and brought to exactly right angled and square, I then ran a bead of solder into the joint... it may give the impression that this joint is made of two pieces - but having explained my method - you can appreciate that it is the one piece - and formed to my satisfaction.... We can also see that I have not shimmed outside the rear axle bracket - and in the next few pix - you will see that I have shimmed between the crown and inside of teh rear bushes.... which is a more exacting practice - rather than to rely on the slot provided within the Slot-It crown... this method was suggested to me quite some time back by the good folk in this forum - and again, it has not failed me... more so - improved the running and wear/maintenance of both the crown/pinion. and the constant positioning of the rear axle in its bushes... The issue I am having, is that body float does not return the body to a central balanced position.... I went to a lot of effort to ensure that it would - but it doesn't. The chassis mount plates and front post were positioned exactly.... dead centre-line, and full on vertically square to the body.... the body posts were screwed into the chassis then cut to length then JB weld was used to epoxy them in place on the body.... I set up a jig so that the body sat at exactly the desired ride height, and that it was exactly parallel and square to the chassis... and left it overnight. When the screws are removed, the body can be removed and re-fitted exactly in place.... but, it will not sit flat on the chassis mounts... and "topples" to one side or the other ever so slightly.... allowing for body float, this would normally be acceptable.. but, due to the wheel arches and my need to have the track at exactly 46 mm.... I have precious little clearance left to allow for such "toppling" in body float... I am considering adding some more components to the chassis, but baulk at interfering with what I believe is probably the best chassis I have yet made..... I could fit some "locating" posts in the body - similar to what commercial manufacturers do.... and this may very well be the direction I take - rather than add any more to the chassis.... I am very happy with the chassis, and really don't want to compromise what has been an extensive build.... Ok... time for a look at the top.... from the side.... As you can see, the motor sits very nicely between the rails - it does not touch them, and does not "hang" down below them. As you might appreciate, I built the jig for the rear bracket to suit this motor - and I foresee that I will wear it out.. I simply love the motor ... more later. We can see in the pic, the mounts for the body - a post at front, constructed from a "top hat" box section with sides soldered on.... Originally, I planned on simply screwing a body post to the mount plate of the chassis - but the length of that post was simply ridiculous. so, I added this box section mount.. which resulted in a much more appropriate body post. The rear bracket - and here is probably where I have made my mistake - I should have made it full width at the rear... allowing a wider rear body post to be employed.... which would have "centered" the body to a square on position, yet allowed float.... lesson learned... The holes through the front axle tube support made easy work of running and locating the power leads... it keeps them nicely "criss-crossed" and in position during the complete movement of the guide deflection from one side to the other, yet affords sufficient movement for free movement.... I will use this again... We can also see the small brass plate I soldered to the top of the front axle tube... drilled it at centre then tapped it. You may be scratching your head as for it's purpose, and some of you may believe it is for some form of lubrication......? but when I tell you that my front axle is also free to rotate within the tube - you will understand that during maintenance or tyre/wheel replacement - I will need to lock the front axle... so that the 10 BA brass screws can be undone and allow the independent free turning wheels to be removed. I did this with Cooper #2... for this very reason, and have also retro-fitted Cooper #1 with the same tapped plate.... I do appreciate there are arguments for and against the fitting of a smoothing ceramic capacitor.. my own believe is that they should be employed.... not so much for interference issues... but to absorb the surplus electricity in the "nano-second" between brush/commutator breaks.... rather than "flash-over" the commutator... I do appreciate, with motors this small - it is more than probable an electrical engineering demand - but it is my choice, and I choose to include them. I have had success employing two such capacitors on some of the larger motor powered models I have..... to do this, I simply solder each one from the motor terminal to the metal of the motor body.... using it as a "bus" to make the connection between the two capacitors.... and possibly absorbing any induced field or stray/errant spikes which may/may not surround the armature in the metal motor housing.... I note that this practice is employed in Carrera models - and have mimicked it in some of my older models with larger/less efficient motors... like the 50 year old Scalextric Muira and Ferrari P4 that I purchase new when I first started work at age 15...... in 1970..... the original motors continue to run sweetly.. with just a bit of bush wear...... but, they run well and these two models are very much asked for when we have our annual slot car weekend (Bathurst 1000 weekend). Ok... next... pic of the above/above... We get a bit of a peek at the inline arrangement in this next pic. We can see that it all looks "in place"..... nothing protrudes or looks out of place... I believe it's neat, and yet relatively simple. It would have looked more simple had I not elected to add the front mount box pillar... but even that doesn't really look out of place... I was happy with the build as I went along designing it... and would more than likely repeat the same chassis arrangement for the LC XU-1 when it is time to make a start on that.... You may ask, why I went to all that trouble to drill and tap front wheel grub holes?... and you would be forgiven for doing so..... however, if I were to tell you that the only reason these were done was so that the wheels could be removed to fit new tyres... then fitting the to an axle so that the tyres could be trued.. well, I now believe you can appreciate why I chose to add them to the turning of the front wheels........ ? Speaking of which, an the previous turning of some 28 wheels for this model - all of which were not used!.... and another four were then made to replace them... why? Well, as you might recall early in this build - I wanted to mirror what Slot-It were doing with the original wheels I bought for both these two Torana projects..... the grub screw hole was centred on the inner wheel rim and hub.... I had a terrible time learning how to overcome that, but got there... When it came to finally designing the chassis - I quickly came to realise that that practice was entirely wasted on this model... I needed hubs..... and I chose to widen them out to suit the chassis rails - which ultimately was made up to suit the rear bracket - which further was designed to suit the motor.... bit like chicken and egg - but I hope people reading this dribble can appreciate, everything relates to something else... and simply plucking a number out of what most people sit on as a starting point - often results in a wasted effort...... so, we have motor size - which gives up bracket size - which gives us rail spacing... and then we can work out wheel design..... not the other way around, which was the direction I took in this first sedan build.... lessons learned.... build the wheels for the chassis, not the chassis for the wheels... I was able to fit small spacers between my axle tube and the wheel on each side - which affords some running clearance and offers points of lubrication... Pic.... Ok.... and here we get a look along the chassis from the rear.... Again, to me - the build looks simple, yet neat and functional... I may be wrong, this is only the third such chassis I have ever built.... We can see that nothing is likely to foul under the cover of the body. We have oodles of room for an interior and that I have attempted to keep weight down as low as possible - except for the body mounts.... We can also see the spacers between each side of the crown and the inner axle bushes. They are packed so that there is less than 0.010 mm clearance on either side... in fact, the crown side was an interference fit, and I ran the axle for some minutes for it to make its own bed-in... the non-crown side had a clearance of less than 0.010 mm... I could not fit the 0.010 mm feeler gauge in the little clearance that was resident - and decided that I would go no further... The shaft of the motor does not touch the slot in the crown....... which I have been told is to be aimed for... not so bad if it does on the right side, as the shaft runs in the same direction as the face of the slot... but, on the left side - it runs opposite..... I have set up all three of these brass/piano wire chassis so that the slot runs clear of the axle shaft.... Finally - rear axle.... I marked out where the grub screws positioned themselves on the axle and ground the feintest of a flat .... for them to positively locate..... I like to add a dob of nail-polish to the top of the grub screws once everything has been running around for a while.... so that they can't back out..... it is easily removed with some acetone.... unlike Loctite 262 which I have used previously... and is a mongrel of thing to release.. I still have one wheel on one model which I have been unable to remove.. simply because the 262 has passed beyond the thread of the grub hole in the wheel.. and virtually welded the wheel to the axle... I won't repeat this in any future model.... nail polish sets hard, but it can easily be dissolved... just don't get it on your paint.. or Molotow! Pic... And what set of pix would be complete without one of the underside... I ran a piece of steel strip over both sides of the motor... and found that there is a distinct difference in magnet draw between the two different options. I chose to mount the motor with the underside having the least draw... I don't like track magnets - they are usually the first thing I remove from a new model once I get "under the hood".... We can see in this pic, that when I had the Dremel out and engraved my name and the date of manufacture into the front plate - my head was in a better place with this model than Cooper #2..... both completed in Mar.... and this year, it's just that the LJ was correctly dated 2021.... not 2020... as the folk at this year's Tasman Cup proxy will learn when my little entry arrives... and will logically be in the belief that the model is a year old.... no so.... Underside.... Ok... last little bit before we go back to work on the body.... motor. I'm darned well impressed!... to say the very least. This Slot-It Flat 6 motor is amazing.... I am yet to learn of how it performs on the track, but after fitting the pinion, meshing it to the crown and connecting up power to it for the first time today - I was amazed at how much braking this motor has on its own... without any controller input... it is quite stunning... and - as the name suggest... it seems to have a doubling of "poles"... hence perhaps the "6".... I was expecting it to need at least 3 or 4 volts before it began to turn the armature with the pinion and crown all hooked up... but no!... the rear wheels began to turn at just over 1 volt... it was well and truly coming into song on 3....... I ran it for a good 10 minutes at 3 volts, then dropped down to 1.5 for a few... up to 5 volts for a minute.. then back down to 3 volts for 30 minutes..... all the time polishing up the armature and brushes... I did not do my usual "naptho" to this motor... I don't believe the armature is anything but true... there is absolutely no vibration in the motor... very rare... it spins up very freely and almost comes to a stop as soon as power is removed..... but..... What probably amazed me more than anything - after an hour of running, and eventually giving it a peak at 12v for a few seconds every now and then... I was able to very carefully decrease power right down to just 0.3 of a volt.... absolutely no indication of any hesitation... just a solid continual ticking over of the armature.... maybe that "6" has something to do with that as well... I don't know... It has done about an hour on the bench - all the time connected through the pinion and crown with the wheels and tyres fitted... if anything, I believe it's even quieter now than when I first connected it up.. and it was darned quiet then...... This will not be the last of these motors I will purchase... and my mind is already starting to tally up how many I'll need for some of my older models.... The next XU-1 build will get the slightly less powerful of the two Flat 6 motors I have (well, you'd have to accept this as the LC XU-1 only had the 186 motor in it, the LJ - the 202... seems right, doesn't it?). I had the L-34 out on the weekend.. whilst doing some bedding in of Cooper #2 on a short Scalextric track.. by golly, that car is a dud......... it just 'lugs" and "loafs" around... it's not a pleasant model to drive... even now with it's correct "Marlboro" decalage.... it needs work - and much more than I have done previously.... The A9-X.... a vast improvement, but, I did a bit of work on that...... I left the factory tyres on it to "have some fun" as it was suggested to me... well, I've "had" my fun with those tyres.. and the MJK's will be going on pretty much as soon as I can find a window of opportunity to do so.... the model is good... the motor ever so much better than the L-34 slug .... In contrast - I took the XY GTHO of Allan Moffat out for a spin... straight out of the box - what a lovely "box" model that is.... anyone who bought the L-34 and one of the GT-HO's.... I bet that L-34 stayed in the box on most occasions that there was only one driver........ Ok.... so, that's about it... as stated many times over - you must really hate it when I go missing for a spell... I come back in "reams".... Until next... when we return to the body... where I will need help with correcting my body-centering/float issue... frats, Rosco
  17. Good work, often "finding" stuff takes longer than the work itself.... frats, Rosco
  18. Thanks OS-62..... it's not going to look good - I believe I now know what I have done wrong with the chassis.... may even build another one for this model yet. Bit of a learning curve - but where I believe I went wrong was by fitting the rear bracket the same as I had done previously with the two Coopers... as mentioned, they are the only two chassis I have built previously. My original intention was to run the piano wire rails along the bottom sides of the rear bracket - which would have given me 0.062" less clearance, but even then it would not be what I wanted. The brackets which were made for me were set up for that model.... soldering the piano wire at the bottom of them was suited to that model..... and herin lay my mistake. I employed the same practice for the much taller LJ.... the Cooper sits very low on the track - body wise.... the LJ sits quite high.... it only goes to reason that using the same setup for the LJ was going to result in it sitting way too low.. However, it will probably handle better than if the chassis height was greater.... there is an absolute minimum clearance from the motor to the track - as is the case with the Coopers.... My intention for a more suited chassis, is to again use the same brackets that I made a jig for and pressed them out - but to solder the piano wire rails along the side -and further up..... I believe this is the critical design point which ultimately determines how low the chassis sits under a model... so - we have learned something... I think.... If I do make up another chassis, it won't be for a while.... there are more projects on the list to get to before I return to this one - and I am yet a number of weeks away from finishing this one off... there is a lot of work to do on the body yet... windows, interior and final fitting out of accessories... all body work, not chassis... so, none of that will need revisiting... The body is currently sitting on the chassis with styrene tubing screwed to the chassis and the tubing setting in JB weld under the body. I am also going to have to revisit the front body mount - it is possible on a track that has undulations that the screw will short out the track rails.. so, we need to drill through that hole and fit another plate further up into the body.... This chassis sits very, very low - it would suit a sport car like model that sits very low to the track.... like an Elva or something of that nature.... the LJ sits up quite high.... and I have yet to true down the tyres.... so, my thinking at present is that we will make another chassis which better suits the model.... at some time. OK.. pix later when the JB has set - you will then see just how low this chassis is under the model.... it's low, and is probably as low as a chassis can be made... frats, Rosco
  19. Three days later.... chassis is finished. I was once told that the highest form of flattery was imitation - take a bow, Chris W.... almost a copy of one of your lovely chassis I used 0.062" piano wire for the main rails, and 0.032 for the outer weight supports.. which is what I believe you used on your chassis that I took as a guide. Pix... Tomorrow, I will mount up some styrene rod and set the chassis to height and location in the body - using JB weld to secure the rod to the body. I can then work up the surrounding area to make it more secure. If you look at the body mounts, I did not add any step to reduce the length of the body mount - as I did with the rear. I don't understand why, but from most of the chassis I have seen - most builders only provide a step at the rear... and leave the front mount on a place between the chassis rails. Now, question from the ignorant to the wisely...... this is the third piano wire/brass chassis I have built - and my first attempt at a sedan. It is acceptable to be able to see the chassis when it is mounted under the model? I have tried to work out how to hide my chassis from side view - and I'm afraid I've run out of options.... it will be clearly visible below the body.... I could fit side panels to cover the gap - but throw this question up to the forum for suggestion.... Ok.. should have some chassis on body pix up by tomorrow night...
  20. Hi folk, not aware of any, but putting the call out to members of this forum who live in the outer Eastern Suburbs of Melbourne, Croydon/Lilydale area... I have built a Cooper T-53 for this year's Tasman Cup proxy series, and am hoping someone in here has a wood track that I can run this little car around on for 15 minutes or so - just to check that it's not going to fall apart during the event... It's not happy on Scalextric Sport classic track - no idea why....... only did a few laps with it and I believe the chassis may be too rigid.... Promise not to linger, and won't nag.... mask will be worn... fingers crossed, there are folk nearby who I am not aware of who can oblige.. frats, Rosco
  21. Getting what you want in K&S is is a bit testing at present, Mac... I have just one length of it, and am currently using it on the LJ Torana build. It has a bit of slop in it with a 3/32" axle... but, I guess it's ok... I'm just used to running in close fitting bushes.. I wouldn't be happy with this slop if it was the rear axle..... frats, Rosco
  22. Thanks Alan, I'll hold back another week from sending mine from Melbourne then.... give me a chance to perhaps get it on a track somewhere and find out if it's going to disgrace itself... anyone in the outer Eastern Subs of Melbourne who has a track?.. other than a Scalextric plastic one? frats, Rosco
  23. Great work, Mac... What did you use for the front axle tube - 1/8" square brass rod? Cobra's always looked a lovely car... in fact, it was in search of a Scalextric AC Cobra from the mid '60's that brought me back into this hobby four or five years back. I did not know of Carrera, and was about to shell out $120 for a used Scalextric one with a lot of damage from a collector type store when I went on line.... and Carrera came up..... I bought two Cobra's there and then, and now have four in total. The Carrera ones run very smoothly, but are not fast models... they tyres look more scale than for track work and all four drift a lot on Scalextric Sport track.... I then found the Cheetah and bought four of those... those models were my re-induction into slot cars.... then I found Slot-It and seven GT-40's later... well, let's just say - I'm back... Again, great work on your Cobra - and yes, those little SRP 16's are a great motor for the size.... frats, Rosco
  24. At last, we're now onto the chassis - almost had to call in S&R to find my brackets, axles and bushes - turns out, they were in a box "LJ Torana" - who'd have thought? I have never claimed that I can either solder or weld.. I have a terrible ratio of weld/grind.... too embarrassed to make it public... not much better with a soldering iron, but I get there... in the end. Ok, set up the axle position for a 80" wheelbase... the LJ is actually only 79.35"... but I can liv with just over 1/2" tolerance... scale wise, it would be less than 0.4 of one mm... I'm not going to quibble over that. Some pix of the body sitting on the jig with axles pegged in position.. Just a couple of comments on the above pix... firstly, the motor will not sit this high inside the body - the body is resting on the jig - when wheels and tyres are fitted, the body will be up quite a bit from what is shown in the pix. Also, you may note that I've cleaned up some of the paint and decals.... I sprayed the wheel arches white, in correctness of the proto-type. I have also done away with the decal slits in the front guards and cut the entire section of decal away - then painted in the white... still needs a bit of work. Thirdly, floor polish - I have learned something - it is best applied with a brush - not an airbrush... I have had much success simply by hand painting and brushing the liquid over to "lay off" .... And - I have also found that this polish responds well to compounding... I have managed to get a lot of my lost gloss back simply by compounding the floor wax... Ok...now down to business..... chassis. This will be the first time I have used the Scratch Builder slot car jig... I found it quite easy to map out what I wanted from a simple chassis - nothing elaborate, but I might add "bits" as I go along. To start with, I decided to return to my usual 0.062" piano wire - it worked perfectly for both Cooper chassis. I further made the decision not to run two lengths of wire and solder them into a unit at the front and rear bracket - but to make a square 90 degree end at the rear bracket .... leaving room for the crown plus a bit more, should I ever decided to use a larger crown. When I purchased the jig, it was suggested to me to also purchase the wire bender - I am ever so glad I did. This amazing ceramic tile allows bending piano wire very accurately - and keeping multiple bends in the same horizontal plane... Working out where the bends were on the wire took a bit of doing... but the first bend was relatively easy... just mark up from one end of the wire the length needed from what will be the front of the chassis - and bend it to 90 degrees.... easy, so far. Next, I had to make that second 90 degree bend, and this is where it took a bit of working out. Whenever a bend is made, it does not start and finish where you might expect it to.... instead, as the wire is bent around a peg - it both "grows" and "shrinks"... I would like to have believed that my mark would stay in the centre - but it didn't. Using this jig, my mark stayed at the beginning of the bend.... and the resultant "gap" formed between the rails "shrank"... by twice the width of the wire... I'll know that for next time. My original plan was simply to fit the bracket between the two rails, but due to this shrinkage - I ended up with the bracket sitting on top - no biggie, but it didn't go to plan - so I had to improvise... I cut the second rail to length and then set up dowel pins in the building jig to hold the rails in place. Fitting the supplied axle rod through the bushes held the bracket in place... I then decided to solder in the bushes to the bracket. My choice for solder this time was some "lead free" solder.. consisting of 96.5 % tin and 3.5 % silver... plus 5 core resin. I have had great success using Laco soldering paste - so, all parts got a swiping of that as well. I mounted the axle end into one of the peg holes and ran the bracket and bush down until it sat on the base. This method afforded me to solder in the bush with some vertical gravity keeping them in place whilst I ran the solder. I then turned the bracket over and repeated the process on the other bush..... having the bushes aligned with this axle in the bracket ensured that they went in square and parallell.... I then cleaned up the mating surfaces of the bracket and rails with some 240 wet/dry and wiped Laco paste onto them. Next, positioned everything "square" on the jig.. and "tagged" a spot of solder onto the first joint... checked that it had not moved then did likewise on the other rail... Checking that everything was square and parallel - I then heated up the entire joint on one side and ran the solder - it flowed lovely, but I got a bit carried away (usual practice) and fed in more than I really wanted to. I soldered in the other rail to the bracket.... then came back and soldered the inside joint on both sides. The bracket was now well and truly set in place... As is my practice (previously mentioned) I spent the next 20 minutes with my much loved Dremel and some sanding discs.. and cleaned up excess solder.. then fitted a felt pad and polished the bracket and rails up.... So, that's where we are now at.... we have made a start on the chassis... pix.... This design is not my own... but I have stolen most of it from Chris W (ChrisGuy)... (thanks Chris)... who's metal work is stunning (body work is equally so). I intend to solder a brass plate with a drilled hole across the rear for the body mount.... I will not use a front formed bracket, as I had done with both Coopers, but will solder a plate across between the front rails and mount a raised brass square section tube onto that plate.... and another plate for the guide mount.... This is all I have planned out at this stage.... Ok.. more work tomorrow - we might have both axles in by tomorrow - and we can start to mess around with getting a sneak preview of the model with wheels and tyres on it... Until next..... frats, Rosco
  25. Ok, bit more to report - but first, couldn't help myself... I now have a few more bottles of SMS paint.. and six more to come tomorrow.. There is a Facebook page, which is being used as a forum, so to speak... some great info getting posted up there, and Scott comes back with answers to questions pretty snappily... might be worth a look.... Paint - Ok, whilst I sort out my issues with floor polish and decals - I started work on the front of the model. I have the grille, as you know - but I now need to make up some headlights. I had considered using clear or white LED's but the 5 mm ones are just a bit too small in diameter... I then went online and sourced some perspex rod... and ordered a whole bunch of different sizes of it.. from 2 mm to 12 mm. I had a play with some 6 mm rod tonight, fitting a flexible sanding disc into the Dremel and rotating the end of the rod against it until I was happy with the profile. I then fitted a felt polishing pad to the machine and dressed it with some Tamiya coarse polishing compound. This removed the fine scratches in the Perspex. Happy with that, I fitted a loose-leaf calico pad and dressed that with some Tamiya fine polishing compound.... I believe I'm close to the headlight profile... see what you think? Just to show my intent at some stage down the track with this model - I used a small LED torch to bring light up from the end of the Perspex... an LED can be fitted behind whatever I decide will be the length of the rod I fit to the model... and I can have the lights on, if my desire takes me that direction.... pic... As for the model, at present I'm in a conundrum... I had issues with the decals around the carefully gouged out vents in the sides of the guards lifting and peeling back. I then took to the entire decal around the vents and cut it away... My plan now is to use an acrylic base coat, and then lacquer white to fill the cut-out... by the time the clear has gone down over this - it should pretty much blend in... I will have a play around in the garage tomorrow with all my types of paint, and try to find a combination which will both please the decals, and allow me to over-coat with lacquer... I am really keen to try the SMS super clear... undoubtedly, this will get mention somewhere in this thread as the time comes for it to be used... frats, Rosco
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