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rosco01

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rosco01 last won the day on March 3

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About rosco01

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    Kart Driver
  • Birthday 04/16/1955

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    Outer Eastern Subs, Melbourne

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  1. Amazing work, Chris.... end result will be another stunner. I now have two T/S Moslers.. the yellow anniversary one is a beautiful car - not so much in love with the Martini one... but apparently, they go well. Both of mine have A/W drive-lines. frats, Rosco
  2. Thanks again, Chris. You have given me more to strive for when I tune a model..... we have all heard of the "fire triangle"... now we have the "drive triangle".... simples.... frats, Rosco
  3. When I get to them, I'll run a report thread on this Chris..... I'm certain now from what you post - that I can effect some tuning of these pods. From memory, the rear pod suspension arrangement was such that an adjustable screw set both extremes of pod travel. Two screws at the front of the pod afforded greater control of fine tuning. Differing spring tensions were available.. from a very soft to a fairly firm. I believe I set mine with something in the mid-range... my track is really not that bad - but it's plastic track - and the factory undulations ire identical in each straight piece... I really look after my track, it is cleaned and the running rails wiped down with Inox before being all packaged up in the original boxes and stored until next use.... I have always been this way since purchasing my first D straight in 1966..... a discipline which I simply can't bring myself not to continue with... I believe the U shaped piano wire addition and some 380 will bring the componentry of the pod to a much more rigid state.. and very much look forward to learning of what effect this upgrade will bring to each model. Of all the piano wire chassis models I have now constructed - each of them has that rigid U shaped rear bracket - the motor firmly locked to it by screws, and the axle secured in place by the soldered in brass/bronze bushes... it is this that we wish to replicate in commercial plastic etc chassis pods... I have had great success with some earlier Scalextric models which never ran right - a Triumph TR-7 and a Mk1 Escort immediately come to mind. There was so much flex of the rear axle/pinion arrangement in those models that they bound up continually... and flexed out causing gear teeth chomping. I corrected this as best I could with heavy applications of JB-weld with some wire embedded into it - it made a huge difference to the performance and longevity of the drive-train.... With the Slot-It chassis - each of my GT-40's (I think there are 8) - I stripped the chassis and re-learned the plastic in the hot bath/long cool process.. using a flat metal plate and magnets to keep it perfectly flat until the plastic re-learned itself... Each of those models was a lot easier to set up once the chassis was true... none of them came out of the factory with it in a flat plane.... some were close, but none of them could be positioned on a set-up plate with trued wheels and tyres without one wheel lifting when the opposite side/end was pushed down on the plate. Probably didn't do a lot for plastic track use - but it certainly made them better performers when I used to take them to a club wood set up..... Plastic track is for people who don't have room for a wood layout.. I'm convinced of this... I'd love to have room to make one - but like just so many things in my life - each hobby only has enough room/storage for a certain percentage overall.... I yearn for space, but understand I'd simply fill it with more "stuff".... frats, Rosco
  4. Thanks Chris, all questions thus far answered and acknowledged. I'll take a closer look at the suspension system fitted to my Slot-It GT40 fleet.. but, from memory, that triangle is fixed - I'll make it more rigid. I firmly (excuse pun) believe it's the pod that affords suspension - not the rear axle. I can't for the life of me come to believe that Slot-It would create such a fault... but, I'll check when I open the vault again in four or five months' time... next planned return to the hobby. Will PM you and explain pending break..... frats, Rosco
  5. Busy as all heck at present, Warren... in matters outside hobbies. Slot cars have been locked away in the "vault" for six or seven weeks now.. with only the LJ body free to work on when I have time (rare). I had never considered a brace across the back of a plastic chassis... not fully appreciating just how much flex occurs under load from the motor to the wheels. It may explain some of the strange noises I have been listening to for decades.... in particular, the Scalextric GT-40 Mk 2's that I have a couple of... one is better than the other, but I now expect that it is firmer.... they will both get the piano wire bracket addition - and we'll note if it improves/removes this apparent mysterious noise... I will have much to do when I return to the hobby later on in the year. It was a rush to get the Tasman Cup proxy car up and posted.... with that out of the way, I was able to mothball slot car projects for now, hence my absence from the forum of late. I have purchased a second T/S Mosler - bit unfair to only run one in competition - so, I will have two when the second arrives. Also - the Winfield Slot-It Skyline and Peter/Phil Brock's Scalextric A9-X are both on pre-order... Apologies for swamping your thread, Chris.... still keen to learn what weights you used on the M6A... and what paint/colour you created such a lovely looking period model with... frats, Rosco
  6. Thanks Chis - my learning curve has just "tilted" skywards. I have absolutely no experience of this new-to-me support, but fully expect that it will now be incorporated into every model I either purchase or strip down for a refit.... I have many Slot-It models - all with this same apparent ability to flex - I'll compare one against the other as progression is made through the fleet. In all the Slot-It GT-40's I have - I have installed the optional rear suspension system... it works a treat on Scalextric plastic track - being able to balance out undulations laterally across the track... I have yet to strip one of these down, but believe the fitting of this new-fandangled (to me) can be incorporated.... it's the tilting/twisting alignment of the axle in the pod which is the issue.... if the motor goes with the suspension, the incorporation of such bracket will ensure that the assembly stays rigid as one... yet, the axle can "float" up/down in the chassis to smooth out contact with the imperfect track... I'll take a very close look at this, Chris - but, I can attest that the fitting of the suspension springs/assembly to these GT40 models most certainly affords better times on poor plastic track.... which is all that I have. Thanks for your reply - any word on the weights used in your T/S chassis....? frats, Rosco
  7. Lovely work - again, Chris..... I have the same white kit yet to be started on. First I've seen of using an axle brace - if I am not wrong, this is the "L" shaped bracket across the rear of the pod - held down by screws and Nylocs...? Did you fabricate this yourself, of is it commercially marketed? Also, what did you use for your weights?.... they seem dull like lead - from lead sheet? Love the livery - simple, but very clean and "just" the right amount of decals. Paint? We have stumbled onto a new paint supplier here in Oz.... SMS. The chap is a long term modeler and has ventured into developing, producing and marketing his own product. It is all acrylic lacquer - and he goes a long way into explaining what the product is. It comes pre-thinned for air brush use in a 30 ml bottle - but he also supplies thinners, retarders and levelers.... I have not sprayed a slot car with it yet... but results from other models have been extremely pleasing. It flows out beautifully from the brush and dries very quickly. The clear coat is probably the clearest I have yet used, and dries to a hard shell-like coating. I have not applied it over decals as yet.... but I read that it is not as invasive as many of other manufacturers.... a mist coat prior to a wet coat seems to appease most decals.... will report when I've had a play. He further markets a number of very fine pigmented 2K colours and some "colour shifts". Looking forward to getting an optic on your second model. frats, Rosco
  8. Chas, if you've used Post Image before - should still be the same. Only issue I have is that each pic has to be sent separately, and I then have to go back and select and upload the next one. Simply "copy image" by clicking right on the second bottom image location once uploaded - then pasting it into your forum thread by again clicking right and "paste"... frats, Rosco
  9. Thanks Chas....put a bit of work into it, but not as much as my previous entry a couple of years back. This one does not have the same top end speed that #1 did... not sure what it is..... same motor, wheels, gears etc. etc... might just be a motor which needs a bit of running before it comes on song... However, it was ticking over nicely without any binding at just 1.1v.... #1 was around that on completion.. we'll see.... main thing, those who are privileged to enjoy running the entire field during events enjoy them..... and that none are subjected to needing any repairs during the series... Yes, there must be a bit of the field still in transit - every confidence they'll make the scrutineer's paddock well before start of proceedings... frats, Rosco
  10. Beautiful work... frats, Rosco
  11. Ok folk, front mounts are done.... I have left the third centre mount in situ for now... can't see that I'll need it, but it always seems to result that when you start to cut something out - you find a reason why you should not have... so, I'm leaving it there for now.... long way to go before the body is finished... chassis is now done, so that's a big part of the build out of the way... I chose this as my final ride height - it's a bit of a compromise between full on proto and soaking up a little bit of that low hanging brass side plate... see what you think? I have had a long hard look at the guide and leads... and believe I have come out of this a lot better than originally feared. I can leave the lower grill intake complete, I do need to shave a small radius from the inner rear to allow for the guide bolt and washer - but to my relief, the leads will run through the intake... and when I trim them to size - should not present any ugly issue - or compromise the full arc of the guide in either direction... so, I have had a win here.... the guide is as far forward as I would care to take it.... the very front sits under the bumper.. so we don't see it looking down... it looks ugly, but this is to be expected for a sedan body I expect.... with this very high ride height... And here we can see my work re-inventing the front body posts... the original post remains in the centre.. I will clean all this area up before finishing the body... These new posts allow the body to sit exactly where I want it on the chassis... I'll open out the holes in the chassis a tad to create some body float... I can now return to work on the body, some of the rear bumper has been inked in Molotow... and the rear taillights.... I will mask up the front and ink the surrounds for the grille and headlights.. then black out the excess.... when happy, I'll fit the brass grille in... and we then need to sort out headlights... so, before I get to the interior - I have a bit of work to go yet... until next... frats, Rosco
  12. A-2 did really well with her wing, Bondy gave permission to lift her skirts after winning the series...... I've already shown what's under the hemline on this little car, Shaynus.... Yes, posts are now setting in JB.. I believe I've got the ride height pretty accurate to Proto... we'll see when the wheel inserts go in... May have some issues with the front guide now - I'm hoping to get away without having to cut into the lower skirt under the grille - I re-positioned the guide after noting what Vinno did with his.... my guide is "just" not visible from above at the front.... but there will be issues with getting the leads back under the body... too early to call yet - chassis is now locked in position... so, we'll have to mess with the body if it all doesn't fit up.... it will be the top of the guide and leads where I come unstuck... not the end of the world, but I was hoping to keep all that area scale correct... might be too much to ask - end of the day, it's a slot car - not a bench showpiece... frats, Rosco
  13. Ok, job is done.... relatively easy to set up. I simply used the original centre hole in the post and fitted an M2 cap head up through it... placed the strip in position then tightened down a small nut when I was happy with position.... then "wick" soldered the joint.. cleaned it up and all done. I will now cut two short lengths of styrene tube and screw them to these holes.... trim them to size and then set the body in position... and finally JB weld them to the body... Pix... Back tomorrow with some pix of the new posts in position.. and hopefully, a satisfactory report on removing that tilt.... frats, Rosco
  14. Thanks Bram, I was actually thinking on fitting some vertical styrene card strips on the edge of the brass side panels.... and painting them matt black.... they could be positioned inside the body sills and yet proved float for the body to pass over them........ not sure yet, we are still contemplating getting rid of the tilting issue. I spent a bit of time thinking on the matter today - and now believe I'll run a 0.40 mm brass strip laterally across the front body mount post of the chassis. This will allow me to remove the centre body post at the front and fit two replacements - one each side... it should completely resolve any tendency for the body to sit cock-eyed.... The 0.40 mm brass strip has a tiny bit of flexiblity - yet, if under compression - will return the body to a central position once that load is removed (cornering etc).. I can solder this short piece of strip onto the top of the current brass post.... it doesn't need much to keep it in place. Overall effect will be less appealing... with the body removed - but to get the body to sit properly is probably a worthy compromise... will report once I've done the job... sadly, the chassis won't look neat once I do this work.... it will have "wings" inside it... I believe, as Munter suggests - it more appropriate to have two mount posts at the front.... and I will leave the single rear post.... as is. I will have to extend this proposed strip almost out to the front tyres - I will need access past the rails of the chassis to fit the mount screws... so, any thought on keeping this small strip short are out of any consideration... There will be a nice "hole" to run a screwdriver up behind the front wheels to access the mount screws - I'm pretty much convinced this is my best course of remedy... Watch this space... frats, Rosco
  15. Thanks OS-62.... yes, I have had some very positive suggestions thus far... amounting to providing at least three mounting points for a larger body than I have previously scratch built a chassis for.... At present, I am considering fitting two pads inside the sills of the body - and perhaps a short piece of wire from there down to the brass strips on the chassis.... Sadly, they sit very low and this will all be very obvious, even though I will paint them matt black. I had considered soldering a brass strip across the top of the rear chassis mount... and providing two posts in the back of the body... these would be better up front, but I can't justify adding weight so high up..... and will attempt the sill mounted pads and wire first..... if that looks too ungainly - I'll look at the brass strip across the rear... and finally the front... As mentioned, I am happy with the chassis and don't want to mess with it any further.... if I need to, it will be a last resort.. There may yet be another option which has neither been suggested or has come to mind yet... I am having a good think on this before I cut and thrust into action... Thanks for your reply, OS-62.... I do hope that we have all learned something from this, my first attempt at a sedan chassis.... frats, Rosco
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