Jump to content

big den

Members
  • Content Count

    87
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

big den last won the day on February 8

big den had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

17 Neutral

About big den

  • Rank
    Kart Driver

Previous Fields

  • Country
    Australia
  • How did you find us?
    HEARD FROM FRIENDS

Recent Profile Visitors

287 profile views
  1. Make sure they are well glued down Phil. There may be a ham-fisted 'Northerner' doing marshaling duties. Den
  2. The WW Chat is on at 9 am Saturday morning Gazza. The Time Zone Calculator link in Sports Racer's post should have provided that info for you. At present we are 15 hours ahead of CST in the US. Den
  3. In the 'which is the best classic sports car' thread I made mention of my Slot.It Alfa T33/3 that runs with a standard Scalextric motor ... a nice well-balanced car. But in terms of racing success I'd have to nominate my Spirit Courage C65. Despite its very simple chassis and Ninco NC5 motor I won a round of my local club's LMP series and placed well in two other rounds. The competition included Slot.It, Revoslot and NSR cars. Den
  4. I only run on 'wood' tracks and I don't own any NSR cars so I can't make an informed choice for voting purposes. But I know that my Thunderslot Sunoco M6A is the easiest to 'dial in' on most tracks, as mentioned in the thread relating to that car. I have three Slot.It cars that sort of fit the profile ... a Ferrari 312PB, an Alfa T33/3 with standard Scalextric motor, and an HRS2 inline with a Revell Monogram Surtees body. Depending on the track where I'm running (not necessarily racing) each of them could be the best performing car at various times. The Alfa may have less grunt than the other two but it's so easy to drive and thus sets consistent lap times. Drifting slightly off-topic, in a recent 1972-81 Le Mans that I contested I found that my relatively small Fly Chevron wasn't too far behind SRC and Sloter cars, and the longer Fly BMW M1s that were in abundance in the series. By some quirk of nature it was simply a well-balanced car. Den
  5. FYI Mark Scaleauto Montecarlo Universal Chassis 1/32 Ref : SC-6900 This one seems to cater for inline and anglewinder configs. Den
  6. Oops! If I'd looked back to the start of this thread I would have seen that Mark was actually using one of the red Sideways pods. Den
  7. Hello to all the 'Sideways Tuners'. As well as the Scaleauto 'red pod' option mentioned by Chris Walker, Sideways themselves make their own angle-winder 'red pod' that is claimed to be stiffer than the standard item. Unlike their standard pods the red-pod is a one-piece moulding with an offset of .700 - there is no option to change the offset as is the case with the standard pod set-up. For me the advantage of the Sideways item is that I can actually buy the part in Australia, and have fitted them to my Lancia Montecarlo and Miller Mustang chassis. Do they perform better than the standard item? As I have very few opportunities to test and compare cars I can't offer a measured opinion but based on Chris's technical explanations they should do. As a regular participant in the Worldwide Chat I regularly find myself watching with envy in regard to the equipment that enthusiasts in the Northern Hemisphere have access to. Den
  8. Hi Everyone. Won't be able to join the Chat this week (April 14) due to other commitments. I look forward to watching the replay. Den
  9. Hello Chas, As I mentioned in my original post the Thunderslot M6A has a rear track of 60mm which is significantly wider than the Revell Monogram version at 53mm. I would also suggest that there is a slight wheelbase variation between the M6A and the other Thunderslot cars ... but only 1mm or so. And there would appear to be variations in the 'outer chassis' shapes otherwise Thunderslot would not sell replacement parts that are specific to each model. Den
  10. G'day R377 The link below takes you a comprehensive 'how-to' on Thunderslot tuning by DRW21, and kindly supplied to me by BrumosRSR. https://www.homeracingworld.us/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=20877 Since my last posting I hadn't really run my Sunoco McLaren all that much because the respective series at both ends of Tassie had been completed. However, with a Classic Sports support race due at my local track on March 21 I took the opportunity to have some 'shakedown' laps on the Shelmore Park (Hobart) track the previous week (March 16). To set the scene I will mention that lapping Shelmore in under 6 seconds is something of an achievement for me. I started by running a lot of test laps in an Avant Slot Kremer anglewinder working my way down through the 6.10 to 6.20 range, then reeling off regular 6.00 to 6.10 laps, before finally cracking the 6.00 second barrier and settling for a best lap of 5.89. I then put the Thunderslot car on the track and broke the 6-second barrier on my second lap, and every lap after that before being halted by a loose wheel. At my local track last Sunday I looked well-placed for a win after 2 heats but had some 'traffic issues' in the final heat and had to settle for 2nd place. I should mention too that on the short twisty layout I wind my controller back 'a couple of notches' which means that I am probably running at 11 volts. If you think that your chassis is to too soft then you should probably stiffen up your body and pod mounting screws. Den
  11. "2 of the house class cars got superglue on the spur gear in the build, as they were loose, I fear the spur and wheel may be superglued together." Hey Pedro51, Back in the 60s Tamiya and Russkit used a combination spur-gear and wheel on their sidewinder cars. The advantage was that you only needed to tighten one set-screw on the gear-side. More recently I've done it a couple of cars that have narrow rear axle-tracks, where it is hard to get the hex-key or pro-tool into the set-screw on the wheel. Den
  12. A cunning plan Matt ... adding weight with those 'heavy' 6 mm grub screws! LOL Den
  13. Well Chas, Rather than verifying that there are 'standard' Group C rules around the world I'm probably going to add more variables to the discussion. I race with two clubs in Tasmania, one in the south of the state and the other in the north, the area where I live. In broad terms it could be said that the Tassie tracks are tight, twisty layouts and not like (many of?) the super-smooth tracks in NZ. In the south of the state any motor configuration is permitted (SS, AW or Inline), tyres can only be rubber or urethane, motors are the Slot.It orange endbell 23K. From my experience most of the locals are probably weighting their cars up to around 120 gm. That's what works for them and I'm not going to deliberately put myself at a disadvantage after traveling 200 km to the tracks. The Launceston club (northern Tas) only allows inline set-ups when racing Group C as its feature series BUT is does allow the use of sponge tyres. This is possibly because the club had its origins in another northern club where ONLY sponge tyres are used - made from industrial rubber EPDM (?) by the track-owner. However, I do take your point about not giving up without trying. In 7 or 8 years of competing with the southern club I have only been on the podium twice, and both times using a Flyslot Williams F1 with the complex 'angled-inline' gears set-up. Reputedly no-one can get this car set up successfully yet I was able to achieve two 3rd place finishes in the one series. Den
  14. Thanks Mac ... As I have a couple of the March 6-wheelers I should have spotted the likeness but the rear wing threw me. We used to have a chain of discount stores in Tassie called Chickenfeed and they often sold $2 'push toys' that were very good 1:24 representations of actual cars, and I did a couple of slot conversions. A bit out of character for you to be turning 6-wheelers into 4-wheelers ... it's usually the other way round (i.e. your lock-down projects)!! Yes there's plenty of life left in some of those older Scalextric F1s. I've given one of my old Tyrrells the front axle tube and modern guide treatment. And I have read that in the UK they have the 'Heart Of England' series for these old classics. One class for minor mods, and the other that allows more freedom for modifications. Den
  15. Mac, Regarding your post of February 1st "This one has potential". I'm not clear on whether the car shown is one of the Fly March F1 models with a custom livery or if it is a model from some other source. Could you please clarify? Regards Den
×
×
  • Create New...