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kalbfellp

Auslotters
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kalbfellp last won the day on June 30

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About kalbfellp

  • Rank
    Formula 1 Driver
  • Birthday 11/17/1950

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    Australia
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  • Location
    Hobart, Tasmania
  • Interests
    Scratch builts,routed tracks and Proxy racing.

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  1. I think my resin is just on 55mm so Scalex is well under scale width.
  2. Shame that they got the width wrong, it is about 4mm too narrow to be scale.
  3. https://www.waslotcarracinggroup.com/ Syd and his group are keen racers.
  4. I know how you feel Gazza, I had to do the same with my 8 lane Flashtrack about 20 years ago.
  5. These pots from Jaycar are not suitable they are not wire wound.Also will not fit the circuit board. Brake pots are usually 5 or 10 ohm. If the brake pot is on full brakes and you do not have enough brakes then the pot is not the problem. Easy test is to bridge the two lugs on the pot and test. The wiper may not be contacting the brake stop. As DM mentioned braking is different from car to car.
  6. I think Roger miss read your question. Brake pot problems on PM controllers often happen. I assume you have full brakes and when you turn the brake knob you loose all brakes? If so the resistor in the pot is broken, These pots are of a different physical size to normal pots and have a 1/8 shaft. It is possible to fit a conventional wire would pot but much easier to just buy a replacement PM pot from Thunderbird. You only need to desolder the two pot connections on the board and fit the new pot.
  7. The car tech sheets are a big help, when I was entering Proxies in other countries I would look at the previous years tech sheets to see what worked on what tracks.
  8. Points now updated after Round 4 PaulsSlot is starting to take a commanding lead.
  9. Can I suggest that you try powering up the gantry (IR or actual lights) and leaving on so the light source is on the sensors before the track power comes on. There may be a very slight delay once the track power relay is activated and the light source coming on and the sensors detect it as a lap count.
  10. Peter: No wonder your car runs out of legs down the straight. I run 10:24 and John Batich runs 9:23.
  11. kalbfellp

    The Asylum

    I have plenty of info re Ardunio set up and wiring when you are ready. Have setup a few boards over the years. Dead stips need some extra components if you intend to run both directions. IR sensors work both directions. I think SlotsNZ tread is still here with plenty of info.
  12. Keith Tassie tyres are made by me, about 3months before the event so they are fresh. They are 35 shore hard made from Smooth On Eurethane. IMO very little to choose from between mine and Paul’s tyres. I think John Batich ran both back in 2019 on his two cars. Preparation is everything, trued with 80 grit then polish with wet and dry using water until a nice surface is achieved. I wish I had had more time to test a few more cars, but tried to make some general observations that would apply to many cars. Of course the next tracks may be completely different, depending on the track surface and preparation. I think No 22 car is running on MJK tyres, maybe someone can confirm that. I will comment that in previous years my tyres had had too much grip on the FPR track, but this year that track had had little use and not much rubber buid up.
  13. The cars are now on their way north. But while packing them I decided to have another look at a few. These comments are not meant to be critical of any build just intended to help tune cars for future events,and the comments only relate to this track. No 16 Fast in a straight but lap times only just into the sixes. This car would tail out when pushed. I changed the rear wheels for a text run, straight down to 6.5 laps with a best of 6.51, that would put the car in top 3. The wheels I used to test were fitted with Tassie 35 shore Eurethanes,very similar to PGX tyres. Tyres are glued and trued with various grades of Wet and Dry using water. Final grade 800 or finer. My opinion that with better tyres, less car weight on front tyres this car would be a winner. No 8 Tried some tyres on this car but only made 3 tenth difference. No 10 This car is running near bottom of field, so a good car to look at. IMO this one is mainly overweight. Also the big guide and large braids tend to slow this car. I use an NSR guide with narrow braids, front wheels only just touch the track and are as narrow as rules allow, rear axle must easily slide thu the bushes.I know some people are using bearings but they must be perfectly aligned to work really well. All this is to try and reduce the friction as much as possible so that these low powered motors can perform at their best. Sorry I could not look at more cars but just picked a couple that I thought made good examples.
  14. kalbfellp

    Nissan Bluebird

    Looking great Vlad. My Prusa prints has been busy with bodies both in 1/32 and 1/24 for Dave.
  15. Caddo some more info may help see what the problem is. What race setup is, does each heat restart automatically, etc. we have RC running on 6 road tracks down here all using TM interface boards and the only time we have a missed first lap is IF we stop and restart a heat for some reason.
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