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mattcrackers

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Everything posted by mattcrackers

  1. Thanks for the information on the motors Chris. Nice Ferrari 158, looking forward to building the other one I have. I suppose I'll keep one or two Brabham's with the posi-lock wheels but replace one with other wheels (probably the one I'll make from resin) The shot of the chassis with the brass plate was apparently used on an Atlas Porsche or Ford Gt, thanks to a another forum member for this information. I'm catching up with my mate today who has the Atlas Ferrari pictured in the first post, I just want to see what chassis was on that one to compare.
  2. My NSR Aston Martin is set up quite basically but runs quite well at WASCRG on the wood track. I say quite basically but this is pretty much what I have picked up off the forum over the years. Check to see if chassis isn't warped. Rear bearings glued in. Screw the motor in place with the holes provided, don't think the standard cars come with the screws for this. Motor is hot glued in place, across the front and back of the motor to the motor pod, be careful not to foul the rear axles. Rear tyres glued and trued (must say since we went from the NSR tyres to the MJK I don't glue them anymore), just use tyres that are a tighter fit. Use grub srews to adjust the height of the front axle, top and bottom. True the front tyres down so they're about 1mm off the track., needed at WASCRG since the track braid is slightly lower than the track itself due to recoats over the years. Coat the front tyres in Supa Glue, allow to dry then true and polish. Repeat if you really want to. Use guide spacers if needed to keep the nose of the car off the track. Oil the rear bearings, lightly grease the gears. I've never really added any extra weight to my NSR GT cars apart from some Blu-tac to the chassis area just being the guide. This set up has worked for me for years and keeps up with or beats the other NSR GT cars at WASCRG. This is all for a wood track, with regards to racing on a Carrera plastic track I'd say you would definitely need to add more weight if running magless. I'm by no means an expert when it comes to setting up these cars and there's many more here on the forum who have been racing for years longer. Matt
  3. Just checked the chassis's on the 3 Atlas Brabham's and the Ferrari which I have. Here's a photo of what these 4 have. Although very similar to the original Atlas Ferrari I restored they differ slightly. Here's a photo I put up a couple of years back of the Atlas Ferrari chassis before it was cleaned and fitted to the Ferrari. The main differences being the axle size like Den has said, and the brass plate under the rear of the chassis which is fixed to the rear axle. Was just looking through some boxes and I have another one of the Atlas chassis's. If you hadn't of mentioned the two different makes I would never have known. cheers Matt
  4. Cheers for the information Den. I'll check the axle sizes and see what they are. I know the bodies are definitely Atlas Brabham as it has it stamped inside. I'll have to grab the Ferrari which I restored for my mate (in the first post) and check the chassis etc and compare. I also checked in the box of stuff he gave me and the other Atlas Ferrari has the same wheels as the 3 Brabham's. cheers Matt
  5. Even if the rims are turned around they still don't look right, with the inner part still sticking out. All 3 have solid axles unlike the 2 Atlas Ferraris I have which have the threaded axles with locking nuts. Just weird that all 3 were purchased separately but have the same wheels. These have like a 'Collet' type fitting to hold them to the axle. This is how they look the other way round Either way they don't look right, just wanted to know if it was just a coincidence that all 3 have the same wheels or were made like this.
  6. Hi all. Was after some help regarding the wheels on the Atlas Brabham. I have been given 3 of these cars from a mate to restore, all purchased separately from different people over the years but all have the same wheels. My thinking is that they must have come with these wheels being that all 3 are the same. But when I look up the Atlas Brabham on the net they all show different wheels. Here's one. And a close up of the wheels. And all 3 with the same wheels. This is a pic I found on the net which shows what all the other Atlas Brabham I have found have. Pretty much the same as what were on the Atlas Ferrari I restored some time back. Are/where these aftermarket wheels fitted at a later date or are they the original wheels. I'll probably make a mold of the best Brabham as the other 2 have damage to the bodies, one is cracked across the nose, the other in 3 pieces. All 3 chassis are in excellent condition, just need new tyres and screens and the exhaust pipes extended where they have snapped off. I believe John (Munter) makes the screens so will be hitting him up for some. As always, any help is appreciated. cheers Matt
  7. Yeah I usually fill the old screens with clay and raise them slightly so you get a better shape when vac forming. Re-glued, filled the 5mm gap to the left hand window with some styrene and filled all the smaller missing bits. The screen was in about 6 pieces but I think it will work. I'll sand it up today. Then I'll see if I can make clear resin copies for the headlights.
  8. Cheers John. Was just out in the shed having a look at the broken screen. Figured if I can fill/sand cars etc to produce a smooth finish I can have a crack at repairing the original screen, then try to vac form it. I'll give this a go first, if all else fails I might need to take you up on your offer.
  9. Wondering whether anyone makes or has made a reproduction windscreen for the Scalextric James Bond Aston Martin DB4. Currently finishing off a project but don't have a screen. The original screen is no good to vac-form as it was broken into a few pieces, I re-glued what I had hoping to make up a new screen but am missing a piece of the left hand window. Any help is always appreciated. cheers Matt
  10. G'day old man, Amazed they let you in. Hopefully they end this lockdown tonight and we can race at Syd's tomorrow night. Good to see you here. Matt
  11. G'day Terry, I'll take all 3 please. Pity you don't have the Minolta as well, been looking for that one for a while. cheers Matt PM sent
  12. Usually a short text message with shed opening times. We do have a race calender on the WASCRG site which shows the date and classes of the next event. Usually every fortnight, depending on Syd's work hours. We can comment on the WASCRG site but not all members will look at this so texts works the best for us.
  13. Nice work on the Ute Mac. Mobbzee's pic looks to be one of the MJK utes they did some years back. I seem to recall they did the Ford BA and the Holden VE utes. K @ S Slots (Outlaw Resins) on FB also have done a few Ford and Holden utes as well a couple of years back. I had a crack at a 3D printed ute some time back, thinks it's a one off Holden/Corvette, missing the wing here but it does have a nice shape to it IMO.
  14. I had no problems with the cars running at 12 volts Chas, actually used to run better at the higher volts. But you run your cars as club rules dictate, so you have to adapt to them running a little different than at the higher volts. I find the biggest difference with the Group C's is the motors, especially when the volts dropped from 12 to 10, some react a lot different than others, Big Den, I suppose after nearly 10 years now at WASCRG I should of experimented a little more with weights in cars, but if a car is going fast I like to leave them alone, especially the Slot.its which seem to like the fast is smooth, smooth is fast approach. Might add a little more weight for the next meet just to test the difference in my Bud 962.
  15. We pretty much run the Slot.it Group C's as box standard at WASCRG, 10 volts on a Ferradore timber track. With the only rule being you must use MJK's as in every class run at WASCRG. You are allowed to add weight if you like but I've never found the need to with my Porsche 962 Budweiser car. I have added M2 6mm grub screws for the front axle height adjustment but everything else is box standard bar the usual tuning tweaks. I think at WASCRG at the moment a Nissan is the quickest car but it all depends on the night.
  16. G'day Shayne, Haven't given the car/chassis a run yet, taken it a few times, still really need to give it a run to see if it's worthwhile using the other couple of chassis's the mate made up for me. Oldskool62/Warren, I usually prime the resin bodies, then white undercoat followed by the top colour, sanding lightly between coats. Find the white undercoat brings out the top colour better then just over the grey primer. I then allow the paint to dry for a few days/week, apply the decals and then use a Clear Gloss applied in 2 coats. The painted body is then left covered (usually a Carrera display case lid) in the drying oven (being my shed which gets ridiculously hot in Summer). I use the Squirts Clear Gloss from Bunnings, seems to hold up quite well for racing. Using the peel and stick decals from Pattos the clear gloss helps make the decals blend in a bit more rather than looking like stickers. Tried the waterslide decals a couple of times now but I think I'll stick to what I know and what's easier. cheers Matt
  17. This is an Atlas Brabham I was given by a mate at WASCRG to see if I can restore it. As you can see by the pic it's missing the screen, probably has the incorrect wheels, exhausts have snapped off and the mirrors are also missing. The exhausts will be a simple fix and I have plenty of wheels on hand to replace with something more correct. What I do need help with from the friendly folk on the forum is finding a replacement screen. I received 2 of these and another Atlas Ferrari which I restored earlier in the thread. The parts for the Ferrari I can copy using resin from the originals. Any help or pointing me in the right direction will be much appreciated. cheers Matt
  18. Nice job on the Falcons nackers.
  19. Cheers Rosco, Has it's ups and downs, if I'm really interested in a project(s) it makes it a lot easier. Lose interest or life gets busy but I always have something on the to do list. Did manage to finish a car which I did paint the body a few months back. This one's a Davison Mustang. Fitted with a Pioneer chassis, metal rears wheels, plastic fronts and resin inserts. Not happy with the rear wing area but I will improve this on the next one. Overall quite happy with the result. cheers Matt
  20. Easycast is great to use, comes out with a white finish and is more flexible (has a bit more give) than Pro cast which comes out more of an off white/ beige colour. The only downside is that you have 2 mins to work with it compared to 5 mins with the Procast. I've used both for bodies, wings, figures etc and have no problems using either product. I've found that with the heat in my shed the Easycast bodies tend to go out of shape slightly whereas the Procast retain their original shape from the mold. Saying that if it does go out of shape slightly a little warm water and you can easily reshape it. I use Mad Clay from my local Pottery shop and have had no problems with it reacting to the Pinksil or the resin. Even stick it back in it's bag to be reused for the next project. I find that working with the clay allows you to prepare the item to be molded better than the plasticine which I first tried. The more you use the Easy/Procast the easier it will be, I can pretty much make a body now by slush mold without any irregularities. Still ask myself what can I make next. Matt
  21. Very nice, been saying that I need to finish my track for a while now, only 9 - 10 years, lol. Love the bridge/viaduct with the printed brickwork, looks great. Really need to do something similar for my track, instead of the foam blocks that are currently used. Did you find the stone wall online? Matt
  22. Yeah it's a real pity that Scalextric don't seem to make the spares anymore, especially the chassis's. Like you Shayne I have searched the web but are unable to find what I'm after. I have a few XY, XW, Mercury, Javelin brand new bodies that I got for some resin bodies I made. Don't really 'Need' them, it's more me wanting to 'fix' unfinished cars,lol Luckily some spares you can recreate yourself with resin. Matt
  23. Yeah spot on mate. The R1 comes in the Standard Form and the tighter Hairpin R1 used with the C8246 Sideswipe straights as well.
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