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mattcrackers last won the day on February 4

mattcrackers had the most liked content!

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About mattcrackers

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    Kart Driver
  • Birthday 04/12/1973

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  1. Nice work on the Ute Mac. Mobbzee's pic looks to be one of the MJK utes they did some years back. I seem to recall they did the Ford BA and the Holden VE utes. K @ S Slots (Outlaw Resins) on FB also have done a few Ford and Holden utes as well a couple of years back. I had a crack at a 3D printed ute some time back, thinks it's a one off Holden/Corvette, missing the wing here but it does have a nice shape to it IMO.
  2. I had no problems with the cars running at 12 volts Chas, actually used to run better at the higher volts. But you run your cars as club rules dictate, so you have to adapt to them running a little different than at the higher volts. I find the biggest difference with the Group C's is the motors, especially when the volts dropped from 12 to 10, some react a lot different than others, Big Den, I suppose after nearly 10 years now at WASCRG I should of experimented a little more with weights in cars, but if a car is going fast I like to leave them alone, especially the Slot.its which seem to like the fast is smooth, smooth is fast approach. Might add a little more weight for the next meet just to test the difference in my Bud 962.
  3. We pretty much run the Slot.it Group C's as box standard at WASCRG, 10 volts on a Ferradore timber track. With the only rule being you must use MJK's as in every class run at WASCRG. You are allowed to add weight if you like but I've never found the need to with my Porsche 962 Budweiser car. I have added M2 6mm grub screws for the front axle height adjustment but everything else is box standard bar the usual tuning tweaks. I think at WASCRG at the moment a Nissan is the quickest car but it all depends on the night.
  4. G'day Shayne, Haven't given the car/chassis a run yet, taken it a few times, still really need to give it a run to see if it's worthwhile using the other couple of chassis's the mate made up for me. Oldskool62/Warren, I usually prime the resin bodies, then white undercoat followed by the top colour, sanding lightly between coats. Find the white undercoat brings out the top colour better then just over the grey primer. I then allow the paint to dry for a few days/week, apply the decals and then use a Clear Gloss applied in 2 coats. The painted body is then left covered (usually a Carrera display case lid) in the drying oven (being my shed which gets ridiculously hot in Summer). I use the Squirts Clear Gloss from Bunnings, seems to hold up quite well for racing. Using the peel and stick decals from Pattos the clear gloss helps make the decals blend in a bit more rather than looking like stickers. Tried the waterslide decals a couple of times now but I think I'll stick to what I know and what's easier. cheers Matt
  5. This is an Atlas Brabham I was given by a mate at WASCRG to see if I can restore it. As you can see by the pic it's missing the screen, probably has the incorrect wheels, exhausts have snapped off and the mirrors are also missing. The exhausts will be a simple fix and I have plenty of wheels on hand to replace with something more correct. What I do need help with from the friendly folk on the forum is finding a replacement screen. I received 2 of these and another Atlas Ferrari which I restored earlier in the thread. The parts for the Ferrari I can copy using resin from the originals. Any help or pointing me in the right direction will be much appreciated. cheers Matt
  6. Nice job on the Falcons nackers.
  7. Cheers Rosco, Has it's ups and downs, if I'm really interested in a project(s) it makes it a lot easier. Lose interest or life gets busy but I always have something on the to do list. Did manage to finish a car which I did paint the body a few months back. This one's a Davison Mustang. Fitted with a Pioneer chassis, metal rears wheels, plastic fronts and resin inserts. Not happy with the rear wing area but I will improve this on the next one. Overall quite happy with the result. cheers Matt
  8. Easycast is great to use, comes out with a white finish and is more flexible (has a bit more give) than Pro cast which comes out more of an off white/ beige colour. The only downside is that you have 2 mins to work with it compared to 5 mins with the Procast. I've used both for bodies, wings, figures etc and have no problems using either product. I've found that with the heat in my shed the Easycast bodies tend to go out of shape slightly whereas the Procast retain their original shape from the mold. Saying that if it does go out of shape slightly a little warm water and you can easily reshape it. I use Mad Clay from my local Pottery shop and have had no problems with it reacting to the Pinksil or the resin. Even stick it back in it's bag to be reused for the next project. I find that working with the clay allows you to prepare the item to be molded better than the plasticine which I first tried. The more you use the Easy/Procast the easier it will be, I can pretty much make a body now by slush mold without any irregularities. Still ask myself what can I make next. Matt
  9. Very nice, been saying that I need to finish my track for a while now, only 9 - 10 years, lol. Love the bridge/viaduct with the printed brickwork, looks great. Really need to do something similar for my track, instead of the foam blocks that are currently used. Did you find the stone wall online? Matt
  10. Yeah it's a real pity that Scalextric don't seem to make the spares anymore, especially the chassis's. Like you Shayne I have searched the web but are unable to find what I'm after. I have a few XY, XW, Mercury, Javelin brand new bodies that I got for some resin bodies I made. Don't really 'Need' them, it's more me wanting to 'fix' unfinished cars,lol Luckily some spares you can recreate yourself with resin. Matt
  11. Yeah spot on mate. The R1 comes in the Standard Form and the tighter Hairpin R1 used with the C8246 Sideswipe straights as well.
  12. Sorry about the slow reply, I’ll make one up and let you know once it’s done. Cheers Matt
  13. Pretty sure I have a mold here for the BA Falcon wing. Can make it in tan or black resin if you would like one. Computer is playing up at the moment so haven't been on as much lately. Matt
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