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Everything posted by X1/9

  1. Chas, Sorry, I know the board is a bit of a dog's breakfast but it works for me (I'm pretty sure the electronic Gods would be disgusted). You're right, the thick black wires on the left are the power supply lines to the track. ie from transformer to track. Don't worry about your controllers they're not touched with any of this - it all happens between power supply and track input. The power supply lines have been cut with the positive wires rejoined at the white terminal block and the negatives via the relay. The other wires going to each relay are a positive pin wire (mine uses 3, 4, 5 & 6) and a wire from a negative pin (18 to 25 are all negative on a standard 25 Pin plug). The wires on the lower right terminal block are for the Lap Counter sensors. They are simply two wires coming from the sensor back to the computer (via the terminal block). The positive from each Infra Red sensor goes directly to one of the positive pins (mine uses numbers 15, 13, 12 & 10) and the negative from the sensor goes to any negative pin on the computer. Just above this terminal block is another smaller block (horizontal). This receives the IR sensors for the Refuelling section. Again, the positive wire goes directly to a positive pin (mine uses 11, 14, 16 & 17). Because I had by now run out of individual negative pins for each function, I shared the negative pins for refuelling with the ones for lap counting. I'm pretty sure that you would probably find more things that you need to clarify, but hopefully the above info can get you started. Let me know if you think I can help. Cheers, Martin
  2. Ok. I've found the Jaycar part number and I've got batteries in the camera. The code is S4420 - they cost $19.95 each earlier this year. You will need one per lane so that UR30 can cut the power (via the relay) if your car runs out of fuel. The relay will also cut the power to the car that triggers a false start (you can adjust the length of time the power is cut in UR30). For fuel management I just use the race pane - I wasn't happy with the visibilty of the fuel gauges on the standard race panes so I edited one to suit my needs. Editing race panes is pretty easy too - if not a bit scary at first! Not sure if I'm following you correctly about the sensors in the pit lane - I've just selected a spot on my track to have the refuelling area and built in some infra red receivers (part no ZD1950 ) for each lane. You could pretty much do this same thing in a pit lane area but each car would need to have its own sensor to trigger refuelling. Hope that helps explain it.
  3. You wouldnt have a pic of how you wired them would you? I just took the camera out to the shed to take a photo - and the batteries went flat. I'll try to organise a photo tomorrow night. Basically, like most things that you've done at least once, it's pretty easy. I'm not up with electronics at all but I managed to work it out. Pretty much you wire the relay to take an assigned pin on the parallel port to activate the relay. You'll need to give the input side of the relay a negative pin from the computer too. On the output side you split one wire of the power supply to the track and feed this cut wire to the two output pins on the relay. Chas - I think it is possible to "blow" pins on the computer but everything went ok for me. Maybe one of the electronics gurus could tell us what to be careful of. The relays together with fuel stops makes the racing a whole lot more fun.
  4. With UR30 I'm using relays that I bought from Jaycar (they needed to order them in for me). They are marked TPDH05.
  5. I almost don't get it. From what I see he's asking for about 10 bucks more than normal price (I think). I can't see where he says "Don't Miss Out" or "Sold Out". I don't know the bloke but isn't "retard" a bit harsh?
  6. X1/9

    It Started Like This...

    Emb, Phil's "Bunnings" ones are definitely the better ones - and cheaper too. Mine are from toy & novelty shops and are called "Robot Claw" they cost about $10-$12. Maybe you could get something on ebay? Cheers, Martin
  7. X1/9

    It Started Like This...

    Yeah I like the smoke effect. The Wow Factor was something I thought about a lot during construction. But then the Fear Factor kicks in and you start to think just what would happen if the whole thing collapsed in a thundering heap while you're standing there at the front of your amazed friends with the winch remote cradled across your chest like James Bond holding a smoking gun. I've opted to put it up or down when nobody else is around - besides, the winch screams like a banshee when you use it. Apart from all that, Phil (Billy Cart) makes a very good point. The table has been down since 9 Feb, the X1/9 has sat in the front yard since then, there is a water tank to be installed in the back yard that can't get in until the table goes up...... it comes down to priorities! Good thing the wife is a patient creature.
  8. X1/9

    It Started Like This...

    Thanks for the comment. Very observant to pick up on the "bits of blue string" heading for the ceiling. I'm using a 12 volt 4WD winch to pull a steel draw bar that has 8 lines attached to it. Each line runs via a small pulley down to the table. The whole thing weighs about 250kg so each attaching point has had the ceiling/rafters reinforced above it. I spent the first few weeks of building my track in the ceiling! Here you can see the winch and the draw bar.. and this is it up in the air. (note the safety chains - don't want to do a Sax!) Oh almost forgot. The "bits of blue string" are a yachting rope with some ridiculous breaking strain. I went to a local yacht supplies place to talk about getting some steel cables made up and he talked me out of it as this stuff is better! Not so many fittings needed - just good knots.
  9. X1/9

    It Started Like This...

    This is my first attempt to put some photos on the forum... Hope it works I drop in here often to see what everyone is up to and always find it's a great place for hints and info. I've been working on my track for quite a while now.. not a huge amount of progress because my time is limited. I'm keen to get started on scenery but every time I go out to make a start I just start doing laps. So it began like this... and then this... and it now looks like this... I'm pretty happy with the layout as it seems to flow pretty well. Nice and fast with a few tricky bits.
  10. That's great news. I remember the frustration I had when trying to set mine up so I was feeling your pain :peek: . Payment in the form of some of those ice cold white cans is fine
  11. Trotty, Have you looked in Hardware Settings - Lanes. In there you should be able to assign whichever pin you like to whichever lane you like (eg a working pin in your setup). Sorry I didn't respond to your earlier post - just got back on the forum.
  12. Sorry if I'm telling you what you already know, but you can assign your choice of pins to each lane in UR30 in the Hardware Settings (with some limitations) I'm running UR30, so happy to help if I can
  13. 57 years or 57 cars. Either way, I feel like a winner. Just like the feeling I'm expecting on Wednesday night. BTW. I've just finished planning a small extension to my track that will get rid of that annoying tight corner for the yellow lane. I'll have to let you know how it works out.
  14. You sly dog!! I see you this morning and not a mention of the birthday. Many happy returns Phil, you don't look a day over 57. Remember... Queenslander!!!!!
  15. Now that I really like. Good to see curves that don't just curve, but straighten or tighten.
  16. I don't have a schematic to show you. I don't always work to a plan! I started off with this link http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/LapCounter.html and went on from there. When I think back on what I've made it is really quite simple, it was just the little user errors that cropped up along the way that caused me heartache. I'm very inexperienced at anything electronic, so I had to get by with lots of advice from the local electronics store (in my case Jaycar Electronics). It sounds like Bill has got a system closer to yours than mine (he's using deadstrips also) so maybe he has the answer for you. If you decide to change to I/R receivers let me know, they are very simple and look neat in the track. Actually, the I/R receivers worked straight away for me - I had more trouble with the relays to cut power when you run out of fuel - but that's another story! Now that the whole thing works (as of yesterday) I have to say it is absolutely worth it. I'm very happy with Ultimate Racer 3 as a RMS and although I felt like giving up on it at times, it does work quite well.
  17. As someone who has just been going through a similar process - I sympathise. I can't necessarily help you but you do have my sympathy! I have used Ultimate Racer 3.0 and I'm using Infra Red Receivers through the 25 Pin plug on LPT1. All I can suggest is search through all of the possible menus of each of the software versions you are using. I found Ultimate Racer to have lots of "not obvious" selections and choices to make - I assume the other software products are the same. Good luck!
  18. Anyone know what i could put on the roof ? I believe the roof had a tar coating or something. You could try wet and dry sandpaper (the black stuff). If you want a corrugated iron look, try peeling the outer layer off cardboard or, if you can get it, use corrugated cardboard. I've seen the cardboard painted silver and it looks like the real thing! Cheers, Martin
  19. X1/9

    Display Cabinet

    Thanks very much Smallnails. That's what I couldn't do!
  20. X1/9

    Display Cabinet

    A brilliant display cabinet for models of any sort (I've used them for diecast models) are available from Ikea. They are called "Bertby" and cost $199. They have around 9 glass shelves and the entire thing hangs on a wall. I tried to post a pic but I'm a failure at that sort of stuff. Have a look at Ikea.com.au and search for Bertby. By the way, I DO NOT work for Ikea!! Cheers, Martin
  21. X1/9

    Copper Mill Raceway

    Personally, I am glad you've dug this one up from the past GTR XU-1. I am only fairly new to the forum and at the moment I'm still building my table - one to be hoisted up to the ceiling of course. I'm using a 12V 4x4 type of winch with eight different lift points on the table. My ceiling is timber and I'm trying to be careful but not "over-engineer" the whole deal. Anyway the next few days should tell if I've got it right. If I have got it right, I'll be able to start putting together my 4 lane Carrera track. For the time being it will be analogue, but I'm keeping a close eye on Scorpious. Hope you and your bro can get back into it. Babies keep you busy - but a man's got a have a hobby!
  22. Hi Max. I just had a look at your photos. That's some very nice work you've done there. I did my best to understand the captions but my German is non existent! I like the scale of Go!! they have some great looking cars. I think the Nintendo Mario Kart cars look awesome. Good luck with the layout and please keep us up to date. Martin
  23. I'm lost for words. - and feeling a little disturbed!!! I swear in one of the photos you can see the tread marks from the Integra on her face.
  24. OK. I've just googled Buckaroo Banzai, watched the trailer and will now rush out to buy a copy. I've never heard of it before but it's lamely classic! Sorry for the diversion, I'll let you get back to discussing magnets.
  25. Phil, When you were Googling did you find any reference to Flux Capacitors (Magnetic or Otherwise)? I believe this may actually hold the key to a V8 Super Car being able to travel in time (Back to the Future as it were). This would enable even a novice driver, one who regularly deslots for example, to actually beat an experienced driver by altering the time / space continuum. To achieve this it would be necessary to reach 88mph down the back straight. Is any of this possible?? Do you think?
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