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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/06/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Racing has been going pretty well here in Auckland. We have switched from SSD to oXigen and we have 7 regulars on Wed nights. We are racing GT3 cars with regulations similar to DiSCA GT3 Euro Series. The cars are magnless (of course). The main difference from DiSCA reg are the use of 17K Baby King/Baby Raport motors (the baby sprinter would be too much on this track) and instead of sponges we use NSR tyres. I wanted to give a go at videoing some of the sessions to show how we do digital slot racing up here. The first video below is the 5 min qualify session: we do qualify to set the grid for Race 1. The second video is Race 1: a 14 min endurance race. Our evening racing consists of four races of 14 min each. We use RCSO2 as a race management software which support fuel and tyre simulations: when we run out of fuel and/or tyres we go in the pitlane for a pit stop. I know that some of you might find the track calls annoying: this is the way we like it because instead of having spare people to marshal we are all actively racing which we think is the best way of using our time (who likes sitting there and marshal!). The videos show the racing this Wed evening when only 5 of us could make it. With 7 drivers we are almost at capacity on this track. This means that if we get more people to join us we might switch to team racing in which case, we can use the spare team mates as marshals. The videos were captured on a phone clamped on a vice on top of a shelf so the quality is not the best. Qualify Race 1 if you are in the Auckland area and would like to try your hand at this sort of racing, let me know. We have spare controllers and cars.
  2. 5 points
    Ok, all together - about to start trimming and fitting into the body, once I gouge out the resin cast one..... Bit fiddly, and a few issues with getting the fine point of the iron into tight spaces - but I got there.... I found that tinning each new piece then "sweating" it into place resulted from the easiest way of placing and setting it into the assembly... It looks very much like a VB Commordore grille at present - but I believe it's much smaller than the VB.... My components may be a little thick in scale size - but I believe the overall effect will be worth the effort... perhaps, it's just the shiny brass which makes it look so heavy - matt or satin black will more than likely give the appearance a reduction in size... Pix.. back later, hopefully with an installed pic or two...... frats, Rosco
  3. 5 points
    It has been nice to see another new model Australian Slotcar and one from such a classic era. I think any Aussie would be happy to see this car released whether you are a Ford or Holden Fan. I am a Ford fan but this model is so well scaled it just looks right and brings back those memories of Brock going for that fastest lap on the last lap of the race all those years ago. At the time I was saddened that Ford had nothing but looking back now I am happy to be able to recreate those grids. The first thing that caught my eye with this car were the wheels which look perfect. Missing are the Marlboro sponsor decals but these are available from Patto's Place or if you are lucky enough to use Armchair Racer as your supplier they were offered in either Watersilde or Peal and Stick as a no cost offer. My only complaint of the model is the front bumper is not sitting straight and is pointing in an upward position which seems to be the norm as both my cars are the same and so it seems are all the others. The famous drop tank is on display with that huge rub it in your face Ford fans Holden decal. The car also displays an interior but not the full interior of the previous L34 4 door model. Instead the interior is a 3/4 interior which for the racers means no grinding away the bottom of the bottom of the interior to get body float. Scalextric seem to be thinking of the racer a lot more with their later cars with simpler interiors that allow easy setup for non magnet racing. The well reverse cowl hood scoop shows is spot on and looks great on the bonnet and the drivers side rear view mirror looks pretty much as it was on the 1 to 1 car. The chassis is different to the 4 door L34 version and is about 1mm lower overall which allows non magnet racers the ability to get that weight down lower to the track which was a problem with the first version. A quick measure up sees the A9X version at 57.5mm across the rear flares while the L34 version is 55.5mm. The rear track of the A9X is 55.5mm which is 2.5mm more than the L34 version and it does make a difference. I am running on a combo of Fleischman and Policar plastic track and the car is very forgiving to drive. I did run it around on some MJK tyres for the Torana but the plastic track makes the standard tyres more fun with some nice smooth drift. I can't tell you if it is as fast as a well tuned Falcon and realistically it probably isn't. But with some tuning it is mush closer than the 4 door L34 version was and the lower chassis helps get that centre of gravity down. The last few pictures are with the decals added and it really makes the car. I am very happy to add this one to the Bathurst collection and have some fun setting it up as classic Aussie cars are few and far between in general. Thanks Scalextric for listening to us all those t=years ago we do appreciate what you are doing for us. And if you can just look at minor quality control you will make everyone happy. If I could add one request it would be to tone down the motor a touch and make it closer to the good old Mabuchi so we are racing cars with similar power. I have changed mine for a SRP 18K slimline but it is my last one. It just makes it so much closer in power to the Falcon it is to compete with.
  4. 5 points
    I made a Coca Cola billboard for my Le Mans circuit. While they did have some of the "classic" Coke logo billboards, in 1970 this more plain version was also seen at the track. I used styrene to create it, spray painted it white, and then aged it a bit using flat tan & primer gray. These are both just sitting here loose yet, I need to trim the bottoms to fit the terrain & glue them in place.
  5. 4 points
    Having watched Group A racing I would have to say it is one of my favourite race classes. Being a Ford fan I have always had a soft spot for Dick Johnson when Moffat abandoned us in the Group C days. And being a Mustang fan I loved seeing a Mustang racing. Unfortunately Ford didn't take Group A seriously early on or saw more potential in the Turbo cars so the Mustang never go to realise the potential it had due to being under powered. Dick always said the Mustang was a brilliant car across the top of the mountain but really struggled going up the hill. Anyway I finally got myself into gear to get started on Munters resin body of the Group A Mustang. It is a really well done body with not a lot of clean up required, although I still spent a lot of time on it just making sure it looks as tidy as possible. I am trying to keep my Group A class as close in performance as possible and was thinking about the Slot.it Nissan GTR when I found a chassis with the correct wheelbase for the Mustang. The Slot.it Alfa 155 chassis was perfect with the 80mm wheelbase although I had to cut a bit off the sides, front and rear to make it fit. Here are a few photo's so far that show progress. Paint was an area I was struggling to find as I noticed others over the years were using a Tamiya colour which was just not bright enough. After heaps of research and asking local paint suppliers if they could mix me a can I found I could order a rattle can from Europe with the correct colour of Dulon 913 which is a Renault colour called Verte Laitue. This seemed a stupid idea seeing I would need to wait weeks for it to turn up if at all. More research told me it is basically Green and seemed to look like every green button and dot on the internet. So after much searching I found Bunnings sell a Dulux Paint which looked close enough. Happily after painting today it almost looks a perfect match and will be the colour I use for a DJR XE Falcon when I get a body for that too. I am using a Ninco NC2 motor after some of my others were set up with a NSR Baby King which has close enough specs. I have heaps of old Ninco motors and they are great motors when pushing cars that weight over 100 grams which most Resin cars do. Anyway see progress below.
  6. 4 points
    Assembled my printer during Lockdown and have printed a few track scenery items and spectators. This is my first attempt at a car body. A little Hillman Imp. Printed in PLA with full supports. Quite pleased how it came out. Bonnet had the most noticeable 'steps' so a little sanding and Tamiya putty - we are getting closer. A very basic inline chassis file came with the Imp. It works OK so I'll print some supports and roll with it. May need to tweak the wheelbase but getting there...
  7. 4 points
    Tired of my Fly Alpha (ghastly inline chassis) 512 Coda Lunga sitting in the drawer doing nothing. The Alpha body is lighter than the regular version and it also has a light-weight tray interior which is great if it's required to undergo a change of chassis. Turns out with minimal work a Policar 330 P4/ 412P chassis is easy to install. The pod side mounting holes line up with the body posts and I had to add a new chassis mount at the front behind the guide that lines up with the front body post. Last night it had its 1st real run and was holding its own against a NSR Ford Mk4 so I'm happy with that and it looks real good hunkered down and going for it.
  8. 4 points
    Hi Folks, As a kid, I was never a big fan of the Strombecker cars, largely because of their relative lack of performance (vs. the stuff I was running/building) but, they did make some very nice and accurate molds, and, with a little work, they can be made into some very very nice cars. So, a few decades later, I have become a bit of a fan, and have found and restored quite a few. All of the cars below run on either the Strombecker 2 piece brass "Competition" chassis, or on brass/piano wire chassis that I have built for them.......a couple of the scratchbuilt cars are more than a match for all but the best current plastic cars. Cheers Chris Walker PS some may have seen these on another forum,......so,......just look away McKee Mk 10......... Lotus 30........ Cheetah........... Another Cheetah............ Ferrari Dino............. Ford J car........... Lotus 19............. McLaren M1B........... Porsche RS60.......... Ferrari 265..........
  9. 4 points
    I needed some larger trees for my Steve McQueen Le Mans Tribute layout, so here is a step by step tutorial on how I made them. Start with a standard twig, and narrow a bit towards the top. This is about 14" tall. The trick is to find one that is fairly straight. Next I drilled a bunch of 1/16th in holes in it, including the base. The holes in the trunk are for branches, the hole in the bottom is for a piece of wire to stick into the layout foam. You might find that for some branches you will have to ream the holes out a bit to make them bigger. I super glued the wire in place. Next I added branches using a natural material marketed as "SuperTrees". It is sold by Scenery Express. I used gel super glue to glue the branches in place. Next I sprayed the whole tree with flat, dark brown spray paint. Next I spray painted the foliage parts using flat green. Don't worry if a little gets on the trunk, you can just mist the trunk a bit more w/the brown. Finally, a misted on some spray adhesive & sprinkled on some "leaves". I got the leaves from Scenery Express. Placed on the layout. Looking up at 1/32 scale figure eye level. Any questions?
  10. 4 points
    This is a 3D printed starting point for a run of these in resin....dunno when but it has started.
  11. 4 points
    Maserati 250F Caroll Shelby car finally finished. BRM and Mercedes W196 are next on the build list. [
  12. 4 points
    The Camaro restoration was going well, but then the Pandemic hit. The world's population was decimated and law and order went out the window. Those that were left had to scavenge and fend for themselves. Gangs roamed the wastelands taking what ever resources they wanted. Then the bodies started coming back to life...... It was time to head for the hills and live off the land... always wary - sleeping with one eye open....
  13. 4 points
    Here are a few pics of where my build is up to Just a little more work and then ready for paint Hope to be finished by end of next weekend Look forward to seeing all the finished builds
  14. 3 points
    Here is a build I did a while ago to plug a gap in my collection of Le Mans winners. I was always a bit frustrated that Slot It did the 1983 and 1989 winners only in box sets. Getting a white kit and building this one was a no-brainer being a single colour. Not sure the Porsche would be as easy. Nicely packaged parts. The car comes like this – lack of instructions was a bit frustrating. Up to this point, things were going really well. Paint and decals went on nicely. There were a few flaws in the clear coat – I could do a better job now, but it came out OK.
  15. 3 points
    Making Trax Twelve months ago I was writing of the unknown future we had ahead of us with Covid 19. Victoria was particularly hard hit, but there was a good news story in the slot world, and that was the Mr Slot Car slot shop businesses operating out of southeast Melbourne. AMC spoke to one of its owners, Peter Van Horssen to find out what has been happening. Australian Muscle Car: When and how did you first get into the retail side of the hobby? Peter Van Horssen: I had built a track and placed it onto an old trailer, which allowed me to roll it into the middle of the garage for us to play with. Soon after, my neighbour suggested I take it along to a fair at my daughter’s new primary school. Amazingly, I got requests for bookings on the day, and so the Mr Slot Car story started. AMC: Who makes up the Mr Slot Car business? PVH: There are three of us, with another fellow on standby on busy weekends. With my wife Debbie, and Peter Dimmers, we run the shop from week to week. That includes, retailing, hosting parties, corporate hire, design and manufacturing the modular range of Mr Trax products, importing and some distribution. And sometimes, local and interstate deliveries. AMC: How did you get to this point? PVH: We started in 1994 with a single portable slot car track mounted on a trailer, and added another one the following year. We also purchased an old eight lane commercial hill climb track and located it within a skate centre in Cranbourne. In 1996 we moved to a factory in Narre Warren where we added a drag strip and a smaller hire track made from Ninco plastic sections. In 2001 we moved into Dandenong and after 16 years and a mix of 19 different tracks over that period, we made the latest move where we are now in our own purpose-built 800 m² facility which includes the raceway and licensed café with an adjoining CNC manufacturing complex where we make the track modules. AMC: The onset of Covid 19 must have come at a bad time. How has the last twelve months gone for you? PVH: Like other businesses, we had to rethink our strategies. It made us concentrate in other areas to maximize our survival, like increasing our product range and design features. AMC: How did the wooden track side of the business come about? PVH: I think it was in 2013, when it was our turn to host the Model Car Nationals slot meeting in Dandenong. I decided to design and build a new track to suit that race meet. Since then, we have built many commercial and corporate tracks that sit in almost every state of Australia. I got started with a router. I’ve spent many hours crawling over sheets of timber on the floor with a long straight edge and a hand-made compass. It can be a long and tedious process but thankfully I’ve now moved to CNC manufacture. My good friend Miguel La Torre (an Engineer) set me up with a licensed CNC program and said, “I know you’ll do something with this”. Miguel saw my vision and knew what I needed to progress it to the next stage. Now, after many hours of practicing, CNC programming has become second nature. AMC What designs are available using your modular track system? PVH: At the moment we have four systems available with a multitude of combinations. The folding two piece track we call the Lockdown Track in five options/sizes. We also have a modular speedway oval system in seven designs. Then there is our regular two and four lane modular system with about fifteen modular tables to choose from. And our latest 2021 release is the Mr Trax hybrid system. It has all the regular analogue two lane modular pieces plus the new digital sections. So now you can assemble as many modular tables as you like, and at any time, insert digital lane change sections to run up to six cars on two lanes, with pit lane access and re-fueling etc. AMC: What makes up your typical track systems? PVH: The tracks are made predominantly from MDF, supported on steel folding legs, and for digital racing we have integrated the Carrera lane change system into our timber tracks. It makes it easy for existing or new customers to add a commercially available product, be it a car or an accessory, to our hybrid system. The track surface is a special black paint we use - a well-guarded secret! It gets a great result whether you are racing with rubber or foam tyres. Our most popular controllers are the Slot.it controllers for the avid racer. And the DS Controllers are a great entry level. Power is supplied by the Hop Wo range of power supplies. It’s capable of handling any track size and power requirements up to 80 Amps. For race timing we use the Trackmate system. It serves the racing and drag racing community. Their range is extensive and very good, and we are the resellers in Australia. AMC: How do you engage with your clients? PVH: We go through all of the basic questions: Is it for corporate use or home. Do they want to hire or buy. What area is available. How many lanes are required. What is your largest group of people. What is the budget. Do they need a full turnkey operation. Do they need delivery/installation/training. We have worked with clients such as Mercedes, Kia, Phillip Island GP circuit, Crown Casino, GP teams, CAMS, trade shows, V8 Supercars, Good Friday Appeal. For custom manufacture we get down to the nitty-gritty. What is the footprint of the space – where are the doors and windows, where is the power, how will people get around the track. Then we get down to systems, how many lanes, analogue or digital. Will it be fast sweeping, or rally style, what kind of cars do they race. I often get asked about doing a Bathurst track, but it is hard to replicate a specific track and not waste space, so then I talk about making something similar that will maximise the amount of track, rather than replicate it exactly. Most people go that way once I have shown what I can produce for them. AMC Do you do scenery as well? PVH: Scenery can be a challenge. We do little ourselves apart from green infields, track borders and fences. You can put in a lot of hours to get a reasonable result which is very hard to make for a good price. We recently acquired the Australian agency for Magnetic Racing. They specialize in high quality, detailed laser cut buildings which are supplied in kit form. The kits come unpainted, so customers can put their own stamp on the buildings to suit their layouts. But if they have the budget and want it made, our good friend Tony Di Pastena (see AMC#103) can make detailed pieces. I can supply the CNC base templates that will drop straight into the track. Tony will add park benches, turnstyles, marshals huts, grandstands – things that suit the layout and it’s all nicely assembled and ready to go. AMC: Where to from here? PVH: There are many loose bits of paper with ideas floating around my office. And every now and then, I decide to explore one of them and bring it to reality. We are forever designing more modular sections to increase the range and versatility. AMC: How can people find out more about your services? PVH: Simple, www.mrslotcar.com or call during business hours 03-9796-3830.
  16. 3 points
    Race catering stole the show, again.
  17. 3 points
    Mr Slotcar, Slot Car Racing and Retail Center, for all your slot car needs. Established in 1994 with a single Mobile Slotcar track. We attended parties, school fetes and corporate functions all over Victoria. In 1997 we opened our first Slotcar Raceway in Narre Warren. 4 years later we moved into Dandenong. Hosting 100’s of parties and staged some National race meetings. In 2017 we designed and built our new 800m2 facility in Hallam. It boasts a number of large slot car tracks, two ¼ mile drag strips, a 2nd level, licensed café, dining/party area and fully serviced retail shop. The Team at Mr Slotcar ... Peter Dimmers, Debbie Shaw and Peter Van Horssen Business hours (subject to change) Normal Hours Tuesdays: 10am - 5pm Wed- Fri: 10am - 9pm Saturday: 10am - 7 pm Sunday: 12pm - 5pm Always Closed Mondays Private Functions upstairs or downstairs by prior arrangements Holidays Australia Day Normal Hours Labour Day Closed Good Friday from 12pm Easter Monday Closed Anzac Day from 12pm Queens Birthday Closed Melbourne Cup Normal Hours Closed Xmas 25th - January 2nd Always Closed on Mondays Here are some pics ...
  18. 3 points
    Don't know hard I will race them but they will be raced. I don't have many display cars.
  19. 3 points
    I have been working on several projects in parallel making it impossible to finish any of them for some time.Here is the first one completed (well inserts are missing) ,3dp printed chassis and motor pod for Renault R8 SCX
  20. 3 points
    Hiya All, @Oldschool62 - I recently looked into doing this for the models I've been making, even more so on scratch built models. My biggest issue with modelling the lines was working out the width and height of the trench so that it wouldn't be filled in when thickening the body to 0.8mm. Also not disappear after a little sanding and a few coats of paint There is a number of ways to do the lines, depending which software you are using and if the model is a Solid object or a 3D Mesh. After a little trial and error I found that working with a full 1:1 size model, the gap = 40mm and the depth = 30mm A couple of examples below. Note the March 717 has the gap and depth at 50mm (too harsh), while the Sting GW1 has the gap and depth as above. March: Sting Cheers NimROD My apologies Gents, I read it as you had the 3d files, as well as the bodies. If the bodies don't work out, pm me, I'm sure I could find the models, fix them and print them for you. Cheers NimROD
  21. 3 points
  22. 3 points
    Here's my entry for the Home Racing World 2021 World Championship Proxy in the USA & Canada using a Slot it Porsche body & any Chassis. I'm using a Plafit Chassis in this case a Red Devil which has the Aluminium base plate which is much lighter than the standard brass one that comes with the 3300. Total weight for this car comes in at 93.8 gms & is by far my lightest Plafit chassied car & if it performs as well as it's testing will give me great feedback for 2022 GT3 that I'm currently building. general fitness goals Cheers Jimmy
  23. 3 points
    Hi folk, taken a week, but finally finished the chassis build... ready for the paint shop for some etch primer - then the classic light grey gloss that Cooper used in their T-53's.... I have not gone to the same length with chassis detail in this build... I would not have time to get it ready for the upcoming Tasman Cup series... But, I did fit upper and lower wishbones.. the upper arms from 0.5 mm brass rod, the lower ones from 1.0 mm rod. The brake backing plates were carefully marked out, cut and drilled using a set of pointers and a ruler to mark them up... The front plates are soldered to the axle tube, the rear ones have clearance around the axle. The dampers and springs were made from 1.0 mm brass rod and the springs made by stripping some electrical lead and using the suitable sized strand which was wound around a darning needle... all soldered into place. I am not going to polish the brass - it is fairly rough after cleaning up with a diamond bit....... which will be an excellent surface for the 1K etch to get a mechanical purchase on. We are now back to the body.... it is currently in guide coat and awaits the second blocking down. My thinking for colour is transparent green over the top of gold.. leaving the gold as a centre strip which flares out around the nose..... and also the three roundels for the competitor number.... I do appreciate this model is not proto-typical of anything which did race.... but I am making use of the "fantasy" clause in the entrant conditions... Ok.. pix all explanatory... So, tomorrow we are back in the paint shop... frats, Rosco
  24. 3 points
    New chassis Ford Focus WRC SCX
  25. 3 points
    New Scorpius F1 chip fitted into a Thunderslot Lola. Third picture shows new versus old. It’s amazing how fast technology moves. Rick Aussieslotter
  26. 3 points
    Stay tuned.... In case anyone is unfamiliar with the relevance of the expression "A Pack Of &^#%&*)*&" I already sent this video to Maurizio with a detailed explanation of what is required...... Let the plinth wars begin....... Suggested Plinth lettering Nissan Skyline GT-R - 1992 1st Bathurst “Gentleman Jim” Richards, some guy called Skaifey I actually thought it would make a great 3rd line if it could be squeezed onto the plinth. Nissan Skyline GT-R - 1992 1st Bathurst “Gentleman Jim” Richards, some guy called Skaifey " You're A Pack Of &^#%&*)*& " yeah , that works....... And in case anyone actually doesn't know his record Racing career summary Jim Richards Races entered 990 Wins 207 Podiums 510 Pole positions 78 Fastest laps 155 Race win percentage 20.9% Podium percentage 51.5%
  27. 3 points
  28. 3 points
    Sometimes even old Auslot gets some scoop information and this one is an Aussie ripper. At the time one of the most hated race cars in Australia as it hurt our poor little feelings when the thoroughbred Nissan Skyline GTR beat our own Holden Commodore and England's Ford Sierra but now an icon in it's own right. Ah the good old days when racing cars looked like road cars with stickers. Thanks Mauricio for thinking of us and Armchair Racer for the scoop information. No release date yet but keep your eyes and wallets open for this one as I have already put in my order.
  29. 3 points
    Ok.... some messing around today, but did manage to trim the grille opening and grille... now an "interference" fit... won't epoxy it in place until we get close to the clear coats.... after decals. I'm pretty happy with the effort - to say the least..... but, those errant slits in the two uprights which have caused the dip in the upper left horizontal will haunt me - I really should have taken it apart and corrected it.... too late now... this is one of the bugs which will annoy me every time I look at this model...... Pix.. and just as a comparison from one of the pix I have been using as reference - I don't believe I'm too far away..... by the time the grilke is painted black, and the headlights are in with the surrounds painted black with chrome trim... I believe this will be a pretty close modeling..... little bits here and there I could do - but I'd more than likely knock something else out of kilter and spend more weeks getting it back to where it is at present... Pic.. The body is now in 1K etch... I've had another fiddle with the window lines on both side of the doors... and pretty much have what I want. I have also straightened up the right lower door line along the sill.... that was annoying me... So - hopefully, this afternoon we'll be in grey primer..... tomorrow guide coat and start blocking it down ready for colour. For those not familiar with guide coat - this will be a worthy watch ..... I stole it from my 1:1 spray painting of panels - and it also works a treat in scale... Until next.. frats, Rosco
  30. 3 points
    It's been quite a while since I worked up a car, so took on an old scalex beetle to get back in the game. Lowered all around. New gear / pinion / tyres / wood guide. Lightweight interior. New front spoiler. Rush paint job. Rush everything actually; this one took about 3.5 hours from go to woah - including the spray paint / decals / matt clear coat. Haha. I still get a kick out of transforming these old clunkers into sweet runners, and this one handles especially well. Lapping in 7.5s on new tyres so probably down to 7.3s over time.
  31. 3 points
    Some of you may have seen the pods Bingo from HBMRC club has been developing recently. This is his party, but as he hasn't yet begun a dedicated thread, I will get it started. This is the idea. Having driven ff050 sidewinders in the MR Slotcar McLaren F1 GTR when they came out, I was impressed with the tractability of a low powered, low profile motor in my favourite Sidewinder config. I badgered Paul until he got this underway, and has since presented me with a series of prototypes based on the CAD below He has printed these in PLA + They are very stiff, Paul has had to do a couple of tricks to reduce the risk of splitting along the printed layer lines. The pod he delivered tonight which I used has had a good try out. Tonight he dropped by a pair of pods fitted with a couple of motors. These are the two top pods pictured below. The bottom pod has a tiny ff030 motor fitted. One version of the ff050 pod takes 5.5mm pinion with 17.5mm spur or a 5mm pinion with 18mm spur, the other is for a 5.5mm pinion with 18mm spur. Small cars often have small OD wheels and the use of a 17.5mm spur just provides a little more ability to get track clearance with low profile wheel/tyre combos. Use with single inside flanged ball race, oilite or brass bush to retain maximum space for wheels. I actually fitted this one with a couple of nylon single sided bushes I had lying around from an unkown source. A decent, wide, brass bush would give more surface area for gluing in and avoid what I spilled with thin CYA.... ooops. The lower profile of the ff030 and ff050 enables these to fit under tray interiors that cannot accommodate a higher standard FC130 motor Working around the feeding trough call, I fitted the 5.5mm brass pinioned pod +18mm spur into a fairly well worked Sideways Capri, that had been running a standard Flat-6 angle-winder pod. I swapped over the same wheels/tyres at the bask I initially tried it 9:36, but it was just too low, so I switch to 9:32, and that felt a lot better. At the moment, the fiddle of getting the motor in place, with the power connection tags sticking out the end, means I had to hot glue it in place. I actually ran about 20 laps before I realised it was just sitting in place,and the direction of pinion turn, was all that was stopping it popping out.... This test bed car was running 5.5s in standard config. I quickly matched that with the ff050 motor which is 24.5k 95 g/cm torque, = 5.9 watts, versus the Flat-6 yellow which is 20,500 rpm 200 g/cm = 10.25 watts Those who regularly use low powered cars will know that a car which is tractable - easy to drive, will often match a much higher powered car with is a bit twitchy. But I got the Capri into the high 5.3s after a bit of body screw tweaking. I haven't touched the weight that was used to balance the original setup. I was able to do fairly consistent 5.4s and 5.5s. I have a few more adjustments for Paul to copy, which I created with a dremel.... Ahem... This pod is going to be quite useful. He is also working on inline versions for the ff050 and ff030, to suit very small cars.
  32. 3 points
    I originally built this to compete in the 2020 Tasman Proxy series, obviously with all that has happened that didn't happen so with the 2021 series being planned I thought it would be a nice thing to get the car finished, Just a couple of the car..... As in previous years the car features the FF050 motor with 9:24 off set SlotIt inline gears, Pauls tyres all round and all up it weighs in at around 55 grams. Initial testing saw the car lapping around my place at 4.7 or so which although a little off the pace from 2019 still fairly okay, hopefully further tidying up may see the car a tad quicker. Not too sure if this car will front the 2021 grid as I have a Ferrari 158 on the jig and that is now half done, Funny thing that once I got back onto the build I'm all refreshed and looking forward to getting the Ferrari done with a Honda RA271 also planned, Hope you like the pics Terry
  33. 3 points
    Got more scenery work done,dirt laid, grass down. Coming along.
  34. 3 points
    Hi guys, I think I last posted in 2013, but Ive still been building cars & so forth, so I thought I would share a few things Ive been up to. First up my Petty Enterprises Team in 1970, both #43 & #40 Plymouth Superbirds. I would have to say, Richard Petty's Superbird would have to be my all-time favourite race car of all time. So I really enjoyed building these. I worked on these on & off for a few years. Here's a few details on the cars Ive built. They are 1/25 scale. I started with Johan model kits. The bodies were fairly modified, wheel wells opened up & flared out, Monogram 1/24 nose cone smoothed out & various other things. Chassis are brass H&R Racing, Motor is H&R Hawk, Wheels are H&R front wheels all round, my own cast urethane tires, Wheel inserts by Modelhaus, Decals by Powerslide, Driver figures by Immense Miniatures. Paint is Tamiya Light Blue TS23 & Tamiya Clear TS13. Since taking these photos I have rebuilt the roll cage in the interior as the kit roll cage is hideous. Ive also rebuilt the exhaust pipes. Sorry I could be bothered retaking photos. Here's the Petty Team - Pete Hamilton's #40 Richard Petty's #43 Thanks for Looking, Greg
  35. 3 points
    https://imgur.com/a/umDJ3zf 3D printing these if anyone is interested. The internal diameter is 18mm
  36. 3 points
    It just goes to show....we can leave slotcars but slotcars never leaves us
  37. 3 points
    Nice update and great to see Rosco on the pace and on the podium... I'll just leave this here
  38. 3 points
    Hi Rob, The folks in our local clubs' use lots of the NSR 'hard" red pods, with so far, no issues. That said, most of the guys do open the holes very slightly, and, take a little off of the inside of the tops of the fingers/tabs that secure the motor, which allows the motor to be installed without overly stressing the pod. As all of our motors are secured with screws/glue, there is no worry that the motor will move/pop out. A couple of tips, if I may,.........always install the motor into the pod before installing/aligning/gluing axle bushings................when a motor is installed, it can cause slight deflection of the rear uprights, and this deflection is enough to "un align" the bushings causing binding. Installing the motor first, eliminates this issue. Secondly, It is not a bad idea to immerse the pod into some hot tap water for a few seconds, before installing either the motor or bushings............this will tend to soften any brittle pods. Cheers Chris Walker PS, If you can get one of these Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings. they are wonderful............they stiffen the rear end, considerably (which helps greatly with any chatter) and eliminate any potential alignment issues with the axle bushings, as they "lock" the rear uprights. They come with sintered bronze bushings installed, and come in 3 different lengths to accommodate many side/angle winder pods. I have been using them for 10/12yrs+ (they were initially created to eliminate "Ninco" hop), and use them in any chassis where they can be made to fit. Here is one fitted to an NSR sidewinder pod......
  39. 3 points
    Here's another Nissan I've painted up, this time done in the Norton Livery of Caruso. Stuffed this paint job up a couple of times, left it alone, sanded, repainted, added the decals and gave it a clear coat. Amazing how much better the car looks when you give the paint time to dry, lol. Matt
  40. 3 points
    My car is ready for track testing Just need to paint and fit the inserts
  41. 3 points
    Just converted these over ...... https://youtu.be/AOqql3cSzvM
  42. 3 points
  43. 3 points
    Thought you might like a couple pictures of my track. If interested I have a few of how it was built too routed 4 lane wood with hydro all cast mountains, used as one of our 12 club race tracks for about 4 years in current state my first attempt at scenery etc so quite happy
  44. 3 points
    I have made my decision and raise the arms of Capricorn and Crockett in victorious might as FuglyCool dual winners. Congratulations to both of you on your world class builds. The high master of FuglyCool will be along shortly.....oh yea, oh yea, hey nonny nay.
  45. 3 points
    This was the grid for the 1967 F1 proxy that was run in North America a couple of years ago........ The cars had to have competed in the 67 Championship year, and they were pre registered to avoid duplicate numbers. Cheers Chris Walker A couple of individual cars.........the ones I still have photos of !! Marc Tylers' (Immense Miniatures)....McLaren Andi Rowlands' (policar) Al Pease Eagle. David Mitchums' concours winning Ferrari....... And the series winner........as luck would have it , my Lotus 33......
  46. 3 points
  47. 2 points
    Welcome to the forum Paul. Don't be shy, post up some photos of your tracks! (Some of us like to live vicariously through other people's threads!) What region are you located in? There may be other members nearby that you could compare track surface notes with. Cheers
  48. 2 points
    This from Model Car Science, April 1971
  49. 2 points
    New chassis Renault R5 maxi turbo Team Slot
  50. 2 points
    OK pic's of your mini (s) My back yard in the mid 80's
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