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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/11/2021 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    Racing has been going pretty well here in Auckland. We have switched from SSD to oXigen and we have 7 regulars on Wed nights. We are racing GT3 cars with regulations similar to DiSCA GT3 Euro Series. The cars are magnless (of course). The main difference from DiSCA reg are the use of 17K Baby King/Baby Raport motors (the baby sprinter would be too much on this track) and instead of sponges we use NSR tyres. I wanted to give a go at videoing some of the sessions to show how we do digital slot racing up here. The first video below is the 5 min qualify session: we do qualify to set the grid for Race 1. The second video is Race 1: a 14 min endurance race. Our evening racing consists of four races of 14 min each. We use RCSO2 as a race management software which support fuel and tyre simulations: when we run out of fuel and/or tyres we go in the pitlane for a pit stop. I know that some of you might find the track calls annoying: this is the way we like it because instead of having spare people to marshal we are all actively racing which we think is the best way of using our time (who likes sitting there and marshal!). The videos show the racing this Wed evening when only 5 of us could make it. With 7 drivers we are almost at capacity on this track. This means that if we get more people to join us we might switch to team racing in which case, we can use the spare team mates as marshals. The videos were captured on a phone clamped on a vice on top of a shelf so the quality is not the best. Qualify Race 1 if you are in the Auckland area and would like to try your hand at this sort of racing, let me know. We have spare controllers and cars.
  2. 5 points
    Having watched Group A racing I would have to say it is one of my favourite race classes. Being a Ford fan I have always had a soft spot for Dick Johnson when Moffat abandoned us in the Group C days. And being a Mustang fan I loved seeing a Mustang racing. Unfortunately Ford didn't take Group A seriously early on or saw more potential in the Turbo cars so the Mustang never go to realise the potential it had due to being under powered. Dick always said the Mustang was a brilliant car across the top of the mountain but really struggled going up the hill. Anyway I finally got myself into gear to get started on Munters resin body of the Group A Mustang. It is a really well done body with not a lot of clean up required, although I still spent a lot of time on it just making sure it looks as tidy as possible. I am trying to keep my Group A class as close in performance as possible and was thinking about the Slot.it Nissan GTR when I found a chassis with the correct wheelbase for the Mustang. The Slot.it Alfa 155 chassis was perfect with the 80mm wheelbase although I had to cut a bit off the sides, front and rear to make it fit. Here are a few photo's so far that show progress. Paint was an area I was struggling to find as I noticed others over the years were using a Tamiya colour which was just not bright enough. After heaps of research and asking local paint suppliers if they could mix me a can I found I could order a rattle can from Europe with the correct colour of Dulon 913 which is a Renault colour called Verte Laitue. This seemed a stupid idea seeing I would need to wait weeks for it to turn up if at all. More research told me it is basically Green and seemed to look like every green button and dot on the internet. So after much searching I found Bunnings sell a Dulux Paint which looked close enough. Happily after painting today it almost looks a perfect match and will be the colour I use for a DJR XE Falcon when I get a body for that too. I am using a Ninco NC2 motor after some of my others were set up with a NSR Baby King which has close enough specs. I have heaps of old Ninco motors and they are great motors when pushing cars that weight over 100 grams which most Resin cars do. Anyway see progress below.
  3. 3 points
    On a recent visit to a wonderful automobile museum in Launceston, I managed to pick up a few very nice di-cast models (VW Beetle, AC Cobra & Aston-Martin DB5) to add to the paddock car park scene.... http:// http:// That's all for now !
  4. 3 points
    The finished product replaced the standard scalex control tower (which looked very much out of place) http:// The pits were adapted from a Greenhills garage kit & includes the open top level spectator stand above the pits (which is where my Dad and uncle watched the 1965 Australian Grand Prix from, and saw Bruce McLaren win from Jack Brabham is one of the great GPs of all time) http:// And a couple of overall shots down the Pit straight.... http:// http://
  5. 3 points
    I used Tamiya Park Green on my 1/24 Mustang, very happy with how it came out.
  6. 3 points
    Here is a build I did a while ago to plug a gap in my collection of Le Mans winners. I was always a bit frustrated that Slot It did the 1983 and 1989 winners only in box sets. Getting a white kit and building this one was a no-brainer being a single colour. Not sure the Porsche would be as easy. Nicely packaged parts. The car comes like this – lack of instructions was a bit frustrating. Up to this point, things were going really well. Paint and decals went on nicely. There were a few flaws in the clear coat – I could do a better job now, but it came out OK.
  7. 3 points
    Making Trax Twelve months ago I was writing of the unknown future we had ahead of us with Covid 19. Victoria was particularly hard hit, but there was a good news story in the slot world, and that was the Mr Slot Car slot shop businesses operating out of southeast Melbourne. AMC spoke to one of its owners, Peter Van Horssen to find out what has been happening. Australian Muscle Car: When and how did you first get into the retail side of the hobby? Peter Van Horssen: I had built a track and placed it onto an old trailer, which allowed me to roll it into the middle of the garage for us to play with. Soon after, my neighbour suggested I take it along to a fair at my daughter’s new primary school. Amazingly, I got requests for bookings on the day, and so the Mr Slot Car story started. AMC: Who makes up the Mr Slot Car business? PVH: There are three of us, with another fellow on standby on busy weekends. With my wife Debbie, and Peter Dimmers, we run the shop from week to week. That includes, retailing, hosting parties, corporate hire, design and manufacturing the modular range of Mr Trax products, importing and some distribution. And sometimes, local and interstate deliveries. AMC: How did you get to this point? PVH: We started in 1994 with a single portable slot car track mounted on a trailer, and added another one the following year. We also purchased an old eight lane commercial hill climb track and located it within a skate centre in Cranbourne. In 1996 we moved to a factory in Narre Warren where we added a drag strip and a smaller hire track made from Ninco plastic sections. In 2001 we moved into Dandenong and after 16 years and a mix of 19 different tracks over that period, we made the latest move where we are now in our own purpose-built 800 m² facility which includes the raceway and licensed café with an adjoining CNC manufacturing complex where we make the track modules. AMC: The onset of Covid 19 must have come at a bad time. How has the last twelve months gone for you? PVH: Like other businesses, we had to rethink our strategies. It made us concentrate in other areas to maximize our survival, like increasing our product range and design features. AMC: How did the wooden track side of the business come about? PVH: I think it was in 2013, when it was our turn to host the Model Car Nationals slot meeting in Dandenong. I decided to design and build a new track to suit that race meet. Since then, we have built many commercial and corporate tracks that sit in almost every state of Australia. I got started with a router. I’ve spent many hours crawling over sheets of timber on the floor with a long straight edge and a hand-made compass. It can be a long and tedious process but thankfully I’ve now moved to CNC manufacture. My good friend Miguel La Torre (an Engineer) set me up with a licensed CNC program and said, “I know you’ll do something with this”. Miguel saw my vision and knew what I needed to progress it to the next stage. Now, after many hours of practicing, CNC programming has become second nature. AMC What designs are available using your modular track system? PVH: At the moment we have four systems available with a multitude of combinations. The folding two piece track we call the Lockdown Track in five options/sizes. We also have a modular speedway oval system in seven designs. Then there is our regular two and four lane modular system with about fifteen modular tables to choose from. And our latest 2021 release is the Mr Trax hybrid system. It has all the regular analogue two lane modular pieces plus the new digital sections. So now you can assemble as many modular tables as you like, and at any time, insert digital lane change sections to run up to six cars on two lanes, with pit lane access and re-fueling etc. AMC: What makes up your typical track systems? PVH: The tracks are made predominantly from MDF, supported on steel folding legs, and for digital racing we have integrated the Carrera lane change system into our timber tracks. It makes it easy for existing or new customers to add a commercially available product, be it a car or an accessory, to our hybrid system. The track surface is a special black paint we use - a well-guarded secret! It gets a great result whether you are racing with rubber or foam tyres. Our most popular controllers are the Slot.it controllers for the avid racer. And the DS Controllers are a great entry level. Power is supplied by the Hop Wo range of power supplies. It’s capable of handling any track size and power requirements up to 80 Amps. For race timing we use the Trackmate system. It serves the racing and drag racing community. Their range is extensive and very good, and we are the resellers in Australia. AMC: How do you engage with your clients? PVH: We go through all of the basic questions: Is it for corporate use or home. Do they want to hire or buy. What area is available. How many lanes are required. What is your largest group of people. What is the budget. Do they need a full turnkey operation. Do they need delivery/installation/training. We have worked with clients such as Mercedes, Kia, Phillip Island GP circuit, Crown Casino, GP teams, CAMS, trade shows, V8 Supercars, Good Friday Appeal. For custom manufacture we get down to the nitty-gritty. What is the footprint of the space – where are the doors and windows, where is the power, how will people get around the track. Then we get down to systems, how many lanes, analogue or digital. Will it be fast sweeping, or rally style, what kind of cars do they race. I often get asked about doing a Bathurst track, but it is hard to replicate a specific track and not waste space, so then I talk about making something similar that will maximise the amount of track, rather than replicate it exactly. Most people go that way once I have shown what I can produce for them. AMC Do you do scenery as well? PVH: Scenery can be a challenge. We do little ourselves apart from green infields, track borders and fences. You can put in a lot of hours to get a reasonable result which is very hard to make for a good price. We recently acquired the Australian agency for Magnetic Racing. They specialize in high quality, detailed laser cut buildings which are supplied in kit form. The kits come unpainted, so customers can put their own stamp on the buildings to suit their layouts. But if they have the budget and want it made, our good friend Tony Di Pastena (see AMC#103) can make detailed pieces. I can supply the CNC base templates that will drop straight into the track. Tony will add park benches, turnstyles, marshals huts, grandstands – things that suit the layout and it’s all nicely assembled and ready to go. AMC: Where to from here? PVH: There are many loose bits of paper with ideas floating around my office. And every now and then, I decide to explore one of them and bring it to reality. We are forever designing more modular sections to increase the range and versatility. AMC: How can people find out more about your services? PVH: Simple, www.mrslotcar.com or call during business hours 03-9796-3830.
  8. 2 points
    It’s ok, we were talking about you, not to you.
  9. 2 points
    We have a Bull Bar Assembly ready for the first breakage, just got to print it now
  10. 2 points
    This is a copy (with edits) of a response I posted elsewhere when someone asked the same questions "resin or PLA?" PLA is a TYPE of filament. Resin is a CLASS of material. A filament printer can print a dozen different types of filament: PLA, ABS, PETG, ASA, TPU, TPE, Nylon, and more. A resin printer can print a dozen different formulations of resin. I'm not as familiar with the different types, but there are plenty to choose from. So, your question was analogous to asking "Is meat needed for eating, or does a banana work?" Of course, both of them can be eaten (printed), but neither are the best for ALL use cases. If I need protein, meat will work better than fruit. Also, there are many kinds of meats to choose from, as well as other fruits than a banana. ;-) If you want high detail, and don't need a large print size capacity, then a resin printer is a good place to start. After that, you'll want to learn about different types of resin formulations. If you want function, large build capacity, and don't need to be able to print super fine details, then a filament printer might be a better place to begin. After that, you'll want to learn about different materials and print settings to get the best prints using those materials. IMHO, filament printers are fine for chassis. You don't need to go with PETG or Nylon, but you DO need to make sure you're using the best settings to GET the best mechanical properties from your prints. I would use resin for bodies, simply because of the level of detail. The problem is, resin printers with a large enough build area for 1/32 bodies, let alone 1/24, are considerably more expensive than the $200 price point that has become common for entry level resin and filament printers. Both types of printers have their pros and cons, and things to learn to get the best prints out of them, and both can be done poorly and have unusable or disastrous results.
  11. 2 points
    A few projects i have started or are in the works, since acquiring the printer ............... The XM turned out really well, nice flowing lines The mini i have printed out to near 24th scale, Slot-it HRS Chassis fits perfectly under it Also have a Resin printer which i'm starting to play with as well Bought the XD elsewhere then i found the 3D file. Saw the Aston and just had to have it Same with the Jag RS200 with the flare kit was also a must, tweaked the print setup so it now fits the standard Scalextric chassis and interior Tweaked the A9X as well so the standard Scaley interior and chassis fits it or use the Slot-it chassis as the body is a couple of mill wider Made the Phase 3 look like it should as well, a little wider XT HQ GTS Capri EH Humpy Group A Mustang A lot of sanding + a few coats of spray putty + more sanding, first coat of undercoat and they are starting to take shape
  12. 2 points
    View of the extra width of the Phase 3 Standard is 55 mm, i widened it another 5 mm to 60 mm, the HQ is also 60 mm wide from outside wheel arch to outside wheel arch Also in the process of printing some trackside accessories for my great nephew
  13. 2 points
    The ones above are PLA, the Blue Mini is resin. The slicer program that comes with the printer works well. I've done a close ratio using the dimensions of the 1-1 car to the Scaley version, the length is about the same as the 1-1 but the width is always narrower, with the the slicer program you can adjust the width without changing the length, the HQ is the right length but i've made it 60 mm wide, same with the HO, they both can take the Slot-it chassis.
  14. 2 points
    Looking good Vince I too have the 3D model, another one to print
  15. 2 points
    Welcome to the forum Paul. Don't be shy, post up some photos of your tracks! (Some of us like to live vicariously through other people's threads!) What region are you located in? There may be other members nearby that you could compare track surface notes with. Cheers
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    Hi Folks, This car has been built for an upcoming CanAm proxy (1966-1974), and looks to have entries from a few countries While I do prefer to enter scratchbuilt chassied cars, time constraints this year (my golf club has just opened)....I have decided to take the quick and easy route and put together , a Thunderslot chassis, under a Thunderslot M6. I built two variations, with one going to a fellow club member........still undecided on which one to run for myself as they both are very very close in consistency and lap times. Cheers Chris Walker The first is an anglewinder pod, with an NSR 22K, MRSlotcar gearing, silicone damped pod, and a rear axle brace, running on NSR Ultras. The second is a Sidewinder pod (although the T.Slot pods are a 2 degree angle !!, so sidewinder is a bit of a misnomer )..........with a Piranha 21K motor, and essentially the same bits as the other. As I don't like running duplicate liveries, I have done a fantasy livery, which I think looks period correct.
  18. 2 points
    Precisely !!!,..........this complete assembly (motor/axle, gears/wheels )can rotate torsionally, as a complete unit,.... as a motor pod can do in its chassis plate......this torsional rotation of the whole assembly allows the outside tyre to load and compress progressively, improving grip and handling. You do not want any movement in the triangle formed by the motor shaft (pinion), and the rear axle/axle uprights. Cheers Chris Walker
  19. 2 points
    Some time ago i mentioned about the Thunderslot chassis being a bit to flexi hence i started using the hard chassis and pod , basically to stiffen the thing up which work.s very well , as from that mom,ent on never had any flexing in the rear axle area even using much more powerful motors than Chris is here. As he said bracing is not new blimey we used it back in the 60,s a lot and with these plastic chassis and pods today which seem to be getting thinner and thinner i reckon along with Chris it,s a very good mod. those slotting plus tubes are great when you can get them , i have used aliminum and brass tune to do the same thing which seems to be just as good, i expect Chris may disagree with me he normally does with things i do chuckle.
  20. 2 points
    Hi Rosco, The axle brace is actually the "U" shaped brace across the rear of the pod, and ,as mentioned in my prior post, it ties the axle uprights together, eliminating independent flexing of the uprights/bushings. which for a variety of reasons, is not all that good. Motor bracket bracing was seen starting in the mid 60's with most of the top pro racers using,..gussets, brass sheet.wire etc. to stop flexing of the motor bracket, and anything one can do to improve the stiffness of the current crop of flimsy plastic motor pods is a very good idea. More than a dozen years ago Sloting Plus came out with an axle tube that had bushings installed in the tube, and they worked wonders, I bought a bunch, and use them in any motor pod I can. A couple of shots of the brace made for the TSlot motor pod...........a piece of .055 wire bent to fit snuggly into the chassis, and secured with Locktite 380. A SlotingPlus axle tube installed into an NSR pod.......it works wonders And a Eurosport chassis...soldered spring steel, with a wire brace tying both axle uprights together. And a recent build of a very early 70's style chassis with an axle tube.............independent flexing of the rear uprights, has always been a bad thing Cheers Chris Walker
  21. 2 points
    It stops the rear uprights flexing independently,........this can ....1/ cause the axle to bind, 2/ cause mesh issues, and 3/ result in chatter.........none of which are all that good for helping with lap times Cheers Chris Walker
  22. 2 points
    I gave all the cars a quick check over and gave them a short run to make sure everything was OK. There were a couple of cars that need a bit of a tweek to make them nicer to race but in general all of them run quite well. I ran the timer during the test run over ten laps. Some cars are easier to drive than others and that will show in the results over the series. Please don't put too much store in the times as I didn't push the cars too hard but if may give a bit of a form guide to the series. Also note that I had a problem with my controller that I didn't detect until quite near the end of the run which may have affected some cars runs. The cars will be going of to West Adelaide Raceway this Tuesday night with Qualifying set to run on Friday night. Racing on Saturday Afternoon Good luck everyone and hope you all havea good proxy series Cheers Alan
  23. 2 points
    From M-Sport We've been working with FastR and Bentley to create the Continental GT3 Pikes Peak - the most extreme road-car-based Bentley designed to compete for the Time Attack 1 record at this year’s Pikes Peak International Hill Climb
  24. 2 points
    Alexis, you just scraped in at entrant number 24. Any new entrants will be put on a standby list and if anyone drops out you'll be added on a first come, first added. To all of you out there - I'm flabbergasted that you've taken less than 2 weeks to sign up despite me deliberately keeping this a low key affair. I've only posted it here and 1 post on the Slot Car Illustrated forum, nowhere else. I suppose it means I need to make sure it's the best reported, most informative and above all the most fun proxy on the planet. Thanks guys (and gal).
  25. 2 points
    Policar Generic F1 - Stage 4 Review Somebody on Auslot or was it FB mentioned they thought Policar F1 went better with NSR F1 tyres. Tried this morning. No apparent difference so I decided to try the reverse. The NSR F1 maintained the same margin over the Policar. My theory is the NSR F1 is about 9gms heavier hence the better traction. I appreciate this is mainly down to the heavy FX180 motor but at this stage anyway I consider both tyres are very similar. At some time it might be interesting to try some Slot-it GP tyres. Hope this is of some interest. Regards Charles Le Breton
  26. 2 points
    Good footage, Scott. Nice one I just wanted to add in how much I enjoyed hanging out with you all. It was good seeing the regulars back again and meeting some new faces. Race Catering exceeded all expectations(!), and there was a good, postive vibe in the shed all weekend long. I enjoyed seeing Bingo’s innovative parts business going properly commercial for the first time, and it was cool seeing the mid-pack being so close and competitive during racing. Every year the racing is faster and the driving standard continues to improve. Let’s do it again.
  27. 2 points
    Guys I'd love to grace your shores one year for this event.
  28. 1 point
    Surprised Bingo hasn't popped up here yet. He has an Ender 5 Pro filament, and recently added a Crealty Resin printer - and he is a gun with CAD. I think he is figuring out when to use each, and materials options. Apparently you can get quite a range of resins, and you can alter the curing rate, to change the properties of the finished product - with hard but fragile one end, less rigid but more forgiving of shocks at the other. All we know is, magic happens nearly every week. Within a few days of getting his first Pioneer Legends last week he has already replicated the chassis and the bull bars to cover for breakages since you can't seem to buy any spare parts.....
  29. 1 point
    The printer itself is a means to an end, I don't print anything I haven't either 3D designed or modified first. In some ways the printing is the easy bit, what do you intend printing? I spent many hours doing due diligence on the CAD side before I even ordered my printer, I wasn't remotely interested in printing endless test pieces, for me it had to be an extra resource for my slot car hobby...and it ended up taking at least half of my hobby time to become an even bigger hobby all on it's own. If you have already done CAD work you'll probably love it, 3D CAD seems easier than 2D CAD (to me) for geometric work but creating bodyshells and the like with something like Blender is something I've tried to get into but never found the real urge to want to go further.
  30. 1 point
    Try this old thread HERE, it my help
  31. 1 point
    Great way to start the weekend. Now I just have to come through with all the bragging I did.
  32. 1 point
    All wiring out, weight in middle, pinion/spur/axle - mostly after slipping gears, tyres - true and treat, guide. Not needed mods to my house cars?? Lowered, but in hindsight that was overkill, and 32 tooth spurs (stock 33t), but that was was I had on hand.. I can't remember anything else, could be senior moments. I have ScaleAuto guides, which reminds me some are a fraction tight.
  33. 1 point
    Hi John I have emailed you the details and a question about decals for white kits
  34. 1 point
    Resin printers produce much better detail, than filament printers.But print size is more limited and the process is more labor intensive and more expensive. I am using a Prusa after several years of trying to get reasonable results from a cheap printer. But prints off the Prusa still require many hours of filling and sanding to get good results. Printed bodies require a lot more finishing than resin cast bodies. Have a read of this these threads. https://www.hrwforum.com/forum/hrw-all-scales/3d-slot-forum
  35. 1 point
    Entrants 32coupe alexis in greece Aloha Alvaro ArroldN BARacer bov Brooksy BrumosRSR charlesx curef99 Dave P Dixie jimmyslots 1950 JohnnieE lancelot Nonfractal Pepsi62 Peter Gunn Shaynus Shaynus's mate Dave Sports Racer sticks Wobble That makes 24 which is the max allowed. Any new entrants will be put on a standby list and entered if anyone above drops out. Standby list Supercharged ALS Cheers Paul PS. I'm amazed that this year's proxy filled up so fast that I had to increase the number from 18 to 24. There's a lot of strange people out there.
  36. 1 point
    And cheaper from Bunnings.
  37. 1 point
    Your one has the correct taillights too. I am making some up for mine from the corners of a clear plastic screw box. The Mustang is small compared to most of the Group A cars but luckily sits pretty low. Not as low as the XJS but lower than the others. Would be good to see some Walkinshaw Commodores too. The Group A field thickens up all the time.
  38. 1 point
    Hi Brett It is a Dulux Rattle can called Dura Max. Colour is GL Grass Court and I bought it from Bunnings.
  39. 1 point
    Hi all, Thanks to Alan and Mike, all the drivers and marshals. Alan great effort to get this series off the ground this year. Mike thank you for hosting a great day. All the drivers did extremely well as did all the cars. Most of the races / cars were consistent with little off's and not much carnage, at all. Marshaling was not to busy at all. The track is technical and requires concentration. It is a great track for these little cars. Most of all when I built the little 1512 Ferrari I did not expect to place on the podium never mind wining the round. Congratulations the Dennis and Brumos. See where we end up by the end of the series. Best of luck to all Thanks again Paul
  40. 1 point
    Thanks guys. The shady photography hides some sins. I used Pattos decals. They blistered when I put red Microsol on them. Followed by Tamiya clear rattle can. I now only use blue Microset, and Humbrol clear in an airbrush, and 95% don't have any problems with them. But I couldn't tell you if the problem was with the materials or my technique.
  41. 1 point
    Haven't had the benefit of a magic drawer unfortunately, would love one though... Generally find running the car for more laps improves it overall, especially with the same set of tyres on, the tyres develop the camber to suit the track of the car, and cornering speed improves.
  42. 1 point
    Excellent, you've got everyone thinking they might have a chance. Just keep posting all the things I told you to write.
  43. 1 point
    Thank you guys. Next time will try to upload videos of all the 4 races we do in each session. The first two are similar to the one you have seen. The Race 3 is in semi-dark conditions and Race 4 is in total dark conditions. I love racing in the dark ;-)
  44. 1 point
    Thanks Mark, a good turnout, great fun. That Elva is a revelation to me, I lucked?? onto a good setup in an already great car. It just goes like stink, and has the ability to make an average at best, driver look good. I now need to keep going with my tuning to beyond, “that feels ok”. Pedro starts listening really closely when the mighty Mac is giving car set up advice.
  45. 1 point
    I am just pleased that the standard C1 formula tyres on the monoposto work pretty well. It is nice NOT to need to change tyres for wood use. Someone who shall remain nameless for now, but has a tricky 3 lane wood track south of here, just grabbed sets of wheels, inserts and C1 tyres - presumably to fit to some other brand car. It will be interesting to get some feedback from him in a couple of weeks. - I'll follow up with him.
  46. 1 point
    I’ll be there. After Saturday there is renewed interest in the snake basket......
  47. 1 point
    I knew we should have skulled your bubbly first............... Scotty took some video at the start of the last Bracket A race. All 3 overall podiumites were in this bracket race. Mac, Gill and Wongy
  48. 1 point
    Race catering stole the show, again.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Hi new to Taree looking for slotcar buddies have all own gear track looks pretty good at old bar if any info b appreciated 0478054850 mick
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