57 replies to this topic

[MOPARDEVIL]

Ill go all out today & post another. Here is one of Phils chargers painted up as the Beechy No.41. Decals are by Stubbo, great quality. Thanks Phil & Alan for great products. I ended up fitting a Scalex Camaro chassis under it but I wasnt totally happy with it. The wheel base is slightly to wide & needed narrowing. I could not get the chassis far enough forward because the way it sat the rear wheels needed to go forward & the front wheels were perfect in the guard. My next problem was I wanted to fit the W35 inserts that Phil supplied with the kit. I fitted the inserts to rear with slotit wheels but unfortuneately now were to wide for the guards. So I gave up with the scalex chassis & am in the process of sorting a HRS2 under it. End product will be much better anyway with the correct wheels & correct wheelbase.

[knoath]

Looks great!
Decals are nice and crisp Alan.

[SlotsNZ]

knoath, on May 14 2009, 03:25 PM, said:

Looks great!
Decals are nice and crisp Alan.

Alan should not be here reading this . . . he should be in the 'decal factory' being a good little printer . . . . . actually stubbo . . you HAVE been rather quiet lately . . .


Greg, they're all looking dang good . . .

[kalbfellp]

Nice work Greg. Good to see som eof these being painted up. The Stubbo decals are great.

The Mustang chassis fits better with the front axle moved about 1mm.

Stubbo is quietly making XA decals,no idea what for.

[Rob]

That looks terrific, nice work !

[MOPARDEVIL]

I actually have a few of these bodies to do & dont really want to put HRS2 under all of them. Can anyone suggest a chassis around 84mm I could try. Anything in Ninco, fly, whatever? I have all the running parts just need some chassis.

[BMR]

MOPARDEVIL, on May 15 2009, 10:50 AM, said:

I actually have a few of these bodies to do & dont really want to put HRS2 under all of them. Can anyone suggest a chassis around 84mm I could try. Anything in Ninco, fly, whatever? I have all the running parts just need some chassis.

Have you considered making plastic chassis from scratch , aastes posted some pics of one he made somewhere on auslot recently . Suppose it depends on how you race them , if all the bodies have the Scalextric Mustang or Camaro chassis under them then they should all perform much the same and therefore no arguements from the racers that someone has an advantage .

[slotbaker]

MOPARDEVIL, on May 15 2009, 09:50 AM, said:

Can anyone suggest a chassis around 84mm I could try.

If you want to try a nice metal chassis to add a bit of weight down where it's needed, MJK has a range of chassis, with a fully adjustable one coming out soon. Might be worth a look at their 1/32 Stuff.

You can get them from MJK, or maybe Wayne at Hornsby could get it in for you.

Patto has some listed as well, that might be suitable.

Edited by slotbaker, 15 May 2009 - 10:18 AM.

[BMR]

I have cut and altered Scalectric chassis this way below using styrene plastic card 2mm thick from memory but as a guide go by the thickness of the Scalextric magnets for the card size. Using the tags that retain the magnets the card can be glued into the chassis to alter the wheelbase longer or shorter . For real long wheelbases like David Reinecke's Stock cars ( Chev Impala , Ford galaxie) I would use the scalextric Ford Torino chassis as its already a bit longer . The Torino chassis and the Camaro or Mustang are basically the same in design and they are reasonably cheap as a spare part $12.00 - $15.00 last time I looked and as for wheels etc you probably have better items in mind compared to the Scalextric items anyway so a chassis is all you need and a big pair of scissors and some glue . Take your time to get it all squared up and let the glue dry .
I have also done this using piano wire glued into the magnet tags to stretch a chassis and the wire trick also works well , the wire offers some extra flex / twist in the chassis but the wire can also bend and need straightening . The plastic card will generally flex back straight everytime.
Hope that offers you another option MD .
PS the MJK chassis are also a good option but with the chassis rails or nuts and bolts in the way it can make it awkward to get a standard Scalextric interior bucket into the car again.
Chassis or chassis mods depend on your club race rules huh
Click to view larger seems photobucket is off line today for maintenance

Edited by BMR, 16 May 2009 - 05:31 PM.

[kalbfellp]

Quote

84mm

The Aussie V8's are the correct wheelbase for the Falcons. I used to have mounts for both the Mustangs and Aussie V8's BUT most guys seem to use the Camaro Mustang chassis and race them against the Scalex cars and they all have similar performance then.

[MOPARDEVIL]

Thanks for all your replies. You have given me a few thoughts. Im not really that fussed if all my cars perform the same as I dont really go club racing. I just race with some mates every now & then very casual.

As you probably have guessed by now I have mainly dodges & plymouths. As an example I built up 3 AAR cudas. Each one different. 1 I kept is as standard Scalex with standard camaro chassis. 2nd I used Scalex camaro chassis but upgraded to slotit running gear. 3rd is unlimited type thing where I put a mjk chassis under it. I have also done the same thing with 3 challengers. I will be doing the same thing with these Ozzy chargers. One yes ill be putting a standard mustang chassis & running gear under it. The others because the wheels base is not quite right I might get a bit adventurous.

I popped down to Hornsby slotcars today as I only live 5mins away & was going through all there stuff. I found a Parma brass womp chassis to be the perfect wheelbase!! Yeeah hah. I grabbed it & got it home. Im gunna need a bit of advise here.
1)Has anyone used a womp with a hard body before?
2)The motor suits the Parma style motors, I want to put a Slotit Mabuchi motor in. How do I go about it? Can it be done. Alternativly is there an equvalant to a slotitV2 25k in the parma style motor?
3)How do you think I should mount the chassis to the body?
4)The front wheel track is to wide, Any ideas on making it narrow? the back is fine!! Of course I will have to cut the side pods down a bit. see photo!!



This should be a fun build. Hopefully I can get it to work!!

[mtpanorama]

The Plafit Fox 25K motor will fit in the Parma chassis or any motor that has holes in the end for screws that line up with the chassis.

[BMR]

How are you with a soldering iron ? Have a look at the scratchbuilt .com website for some ideas .
There are almost as many ideas on ways to mount a hard plastic body as there are motor options to choose from . A Plafit fox will be fast or even the Plafit pointer which is the same to look at but a little less RPM than the Fox and would be fine . A lot depends on your track layout as to whether you can use the Fox to its full potential . A few of us here in SA raced Scratchbuilt 1/32s on metal chassis and we used the Fox motors which were fine on my track but on a shorter twistier track where the controller spends more time on the resistor and less time actually flat out full throttle they were a handful , plus it heats up the controller resistor (old style Parma resistor controllers) with electronic controllers you will be ok.
Just to add to that I used a pointer motor at around 22000rpm instead of the Fox motor and it was easier to drive in the twisty sections and lost near nothing on the main straight . That chassis you have would also accept the Ninco NC5 long type can as well but the size of the hole that the motor can goes through may be larger to suit a parma 16d from memory ? Also check the motor shaft length with the pinion , it will need to be long enough to reach the crown gear .
BRK12345 uses those chassis a lot to stretch out and run under 1/24th bodies . He may know that hole size measurement .
Building a chassis is a bit of messing around and can be rewarding but for an easy option there are plenty of other chassis that will fit in easier .
Phil has set up the charger for the Scalextric chassis anyway so why not go with it .
Lots of fun which ever way you go

Edited by BMR, 15 May 2009 - 06:21 PM.

[MOPARDEVIL]

Thanks for your replies guys. As I said in my previous post I will set up one or 2 with the mustang chassis. But the others will have something a bit different.

Regarding the front wheel track which was my question 4, I had some narrower BWA wheels & for the front will be fine & I wont have to alter the front at all, so problem solved there.

Regarding the motor which was my question 2. I checked all my motors in my parts box & they all fit properly in the hole in the mount. Half of my motors have the small hole for the small screw to attach it to the mount & none of those motors have a shaft which is long enough. Its about half the length it needs to be. So that is a bum as I wanted to use what I had. Usually we are cutting of the shaft, not want to add to it!!

Ill check that link you sent but this is my first foray into brass so I want to keep it real simple with mounting etc

Thanks
Greg

[MOPARDEVIL]

BMR can you tell me if the Fox & pointer motors that you posted about will they have a long enough shaft. Im not used to seeing motors this far forward, other than front motored car obviously. I have a slotit gear in the back & the shafts of all my motors end where the teeth start. Im I going the right way with this or are there larger gears or something?

[KarKraft]

kalbfellp, on May 14 2009, 04:47 PM, said:

Stubbo is quietly making XA decals,no idea what for.

So....

should I stock up on Mustang chassis while they are still $50?

[kalbfellp]

I have several Womps set up as track cars with DSE motors.I just soldered the motors in and spaced the axles to stop the side movement.
As far as the front goes have a look at this womp of Roberts in the CPR race.

Edited by kalbfellp, 16 May 2009 - 12:06 AM.

[dreinecke]

That looks great!!!

[MOPARDEVIL]

kalbfellp, on May 16 2009, 12:06 AM, said:

I have several Womps set up as track cars with DSE motors.I just soldered the motors in and spaced the axles to stop the side movement.
As far as the front goes have a look at this womp of Roberts in the CPR race.

Hi Phil,
Thanks for your reply & photos. Just to make sure I understand right. Are you saying the shaft from the motor does not have to go inside the slot in the gear because those DSE motors the shaft in the motor is not long enough. You then use spaces to stop the axle moving from side to side.

Thanks
Greg

[kalbfellp]

Yes that is right. The womp motor bracket is to far forward for most motors. I do not rely on the motor shaft to hold the rear axle on most of my cars!
When I build a car I use brass tube to space the wheels to the bearings,I then set the gear mesh to suit. I often find that to get the mesh just right I need to cut the motor shaft off.