6 replies to this topic

[GlovemanP510]

Now that I think I have worked out the picture thing here is another go at presenting the documentation of my first scenery project








seems i was linking to the thumbnails doh!
fingers crossed

Hope it is useful to someone

[manic35]

What a FANTASTIC how-to!!!

PM sent.

Cheers Manic

[GlovemanP510]

Pics are ok but for those of you with bad eyes like me here is the text


Building FencesMy newly purchased slot car track has to remain portable to keep the other half happy but my son loves the scenery that we have seen surfing the net. So here is a record of my first attempt at creating portable and easily added scenery. We really love the V8 Supercars and particularly the Clipsal 500 in Adelaide. I felt that some cyclone mesh fencing around the track. Would start to give it that a street circuit feel.
Tools Required
Cordless Drill
Dremel
Dremel cut off bit
Drill Bits – 0.5mm, 1.5mm &
4mm
Pointy Nosed Pliers
Side Cutters
Craft Knife
Materials Required
Scalextric Track Border
Galvanised Gutter Guard
4mm Hollow Plastic Tubing
0.75mm wire
Dress Makers Pins
4mm Rubber O-Rings
Superglue
Step 1 – Post Holes
Using a cordless drill a 4mm hole in the base of the guard rail support to the right of each of the rail posts (except the far right post which is drilled on the left.) Try not to drill all the way through the corner ones.
Step 2 – Making the Posts
Cut the posts to length with the Dremel (I used 100mm) and then bend them (I made up a jig to make this process easier after doing the first couple). Mark out the angle you want and set a block past that position as the plastic tends to spring back quite a bit. Once this is done drill a series of 1.5mm holes down the sides of the posts with a Dremel. (Use the galvanised gutter guard to mark out the locations of the holes. Again I made a jig to make this process easier for mass
production of the posts). I experimented with smaller drill bits to do this but small differences in the mesh sizes made it difficult to line up the mesh and the holes when assembling the pieces later. Drill all the way through for any centre posts and only
one opposite side of each of the end posts. If you leave the jig open ended at one end you can simply flip the
post over in the jig. Check your lengths are all the same for however many posts are required.
Step 3 – Adding the Mesh
Cut out the rectangular panels of mesh that you require. (Note the panels are generally the same size except for the far right one which is often one square narrower. ** Note remember to leave about half a
grid of wire spiking out at each end of the panel.** Use a steel ruler to bend the mesh over to the required angle.
Test fit the pieces to the relevant posts. Cut out two squares at the bottom wherever required to allow it to slide over the top of any guard rail posts. This may be in the centre or at the far right. Using the 0.75mm wire wrap a loop around the post
and mesh in three places. At the top, just below the bend and just above the top of where the guard rails will sit. Use Pliers to twist the wire and then trim it to length with the side cutters. You often have to mash the wire around a bit to tighten it up. Repeat this process until all the mesh is joined to the posts.
Step 4 – Assembly
Before you can assemble the posts into the holes in the base use a pen knife to place a small “v cut” in the top of any guide rail posts that clash with the top of the posts. The mesh can then lock into these cuts when you
push everything together. These cuts will also help to hold every thing in place when you have finished assembly. Use The Dremel to drill a 0.5mm hole in the end guard rail post all the way through
the black plastic tube. Using the plier cut a dressmakers pin to
about 10mm long and then press it through the hole you just drilled. You may need to use some pliers to do this as some of them can be tough. Finally fit the rubber o-rings over the end of the posts to finish off. I placed a small drop of superglue on them to hold them in place.
The Finished product
The finished product is really good at catching the cars as they slide off the track (not terribly good yet so that seems to happen a lot) and if you decide you don’t want them you can simply remove the dress makers pins and slide them out and have a regulation barrier back.
So Far I have managed to make fencing on lots of different pieces including
• Radius 1 - 45 degrees
• Radius 2 – 45 degrees
• Half Straights
• Full Straight Lead Ins
All of them posed slightly different challenges but were pretty much the same process. The curved ones often require a little manipulation at the top to allow for the radius in the bends. I have even experimented with adding a few safety entrances for the track marshals and think these worked out pretty well. With a little practice I can now do a half straight in about 30mins. Hope this post
is useful and Good Luck.

[Marty]

Hi Paul

After having a race night using your barriers I realised that they were exactly what I was needing so I finally had a go at making the barriers, thanks to your great how to and help, the 5mm rod took a heat gun and a jig to get the bend and after a couple of more trips to Bunnings I now have all I need to get the job done. Hopefully I'll have the trickier parts of the track done before the 19th.

Here is a couple of shots of my first attempt.

undefined

undefined

Getting started was slow but I've done 1 each night before dinner.

If anyone else is thinking of having some of these for stopping the flying right off the track and table I can certainly reccomend giving them a try.

Marty

[Marty]

Hmmm

Got the image insert wrong,






Paul

I know you'll appreciate the positioning of the cars.

Marty

[GlovemanP510]

Great job Marty as i can certainly say from experiencing them. and yes definately appreciate the race order

[Paul NZ]

Guys, That how to is great and both of your finished products are fantastic!