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These pics are fairly self explanitory as to how I set the body out and glued in the plastic card pieces into place , the card is 1mm thick styrene available from most hobby shops , the glue was for styrene plastic. The glue is also available from the hobby shops I used the bottle that has a nice hollow needle tip that makes putting the glue on easy and cleaner than using a coated match stick or something similar to apply the glue. The large tube is a piece of PVC pipe available in 20mm -25mm from the hardware shop. I started by trimming the body to allow for the flare to be set higher in the body and the wheel arch is opened up enough over the whole arch to allow the tyre and rim to sit in the arch with plenty of room to spare , I also allowed for the body to be dropped / lowered slightly after the flares were finished. Once the arches are opened up I also gave the inside area where the glue was going a light sand to be sure it will all bond in place .
This first pic shows the plastic card that is bent and taped to wrap around the PVC pipe then the body is sat over the lot to tack glue in place , after it dries I put some more glue around the inside of the body and flare to secure it permanently in place . After its all glued the plastic card can be trimmed to shape , or if a larger flare is called for I would glue another piece of plastic card into the first one to thichen the flare up so it can have a folded lip on the guard or it can be shaped to taper down and outwards to cover the tyre as you like.
These pics show the card installed into the body and some trimming has been started to shape the guards. I also put a tube over the body posts to either streangthen the post or repair a cracked post the tube is styrene plastic from the model hobby shop. On this car the flares are only very small because I thought the body could not be lowered very much only about 2mm because of the shape of the body and to go further would have made the guards look too boxy and over sized for the mild look I was after. When the rear guards were first trimmed to shape to lower the body the shape at the top of the arch flowed inwards towards the centre of the body , which meant the top of the tyre was visible from directly above , so these flares are really no wider than the standard body they just cover the tyre at the top .
These pics show the trimmed guards and the gap around the tyre-rim on the body when its put back onto the chassis , from here I can trim the body mounting post to lower the car . As you can see the flare is very mild just to cover the top of the tyre after lowering and I have not bothered to paint the white plastic to match the body yellow as I didn't think it looked too bad as it is ? The mount post at the front has been reinforced with styrene tube as well but as the club rules are heading towards more modified cars I will most likely cut the front post out to allow for a full front axle to go through and sort out another mount system for the front and flare the front guards , If the club goes the way of modified bodies ? I know a lot of Auslot forum users know how to do this sort of thing but if it helps some newer slot car people out with ideas then it was worth posting.
Sorry about the picture quality but I only have the phone to get a photo to download onto the paintbucket site
To the SCSC group : Should we allow bigger body mods ?
Edited by BMR, 10 September 2007 - 12:52 PM.
.....This porsche was done a short while ago and Your correct saying Im not over width just covering the tyre. Although some cars when you refit them with a MJK rim that we all use with Ninco or MJK 20x10 tyres they often hang just outside the body compared to standard plastic rims and tyres. we do allow 1mm I think from memory - I just had the time to cover that 1mm . But if I enter in open class (Friday night) I may widen the front a lot more noticably 
