24 replies to this topic

[BadFingerElmo]

I finally got hold of my lancia today and while it's totally gorgous to look at,
once i pulled the magnet out it handled like an upsidedown snail with an inner ear infection, (no offense Jamie).
It's main problem seems to be a VERY light front end.
Since it's first run i've already-
Pulled the mag, (der),
oiled and greased everything,
taken the sharp edges off the rear tyres,
shimmed the rear axle,
freed up the guide,
and added about ten grams of lead just behind the front axle.
All this has helped a fair bit, it can now almost keep up with an SCX lancia delta. ( )
but i know there's still some left in it.
Can anyone say if it's worth throwing the front stub axles and replacing them with a straight axle?
Also, the front is still a bit light and as i don't want to add any more weight i thought
maybe i should place the weight i have in front of the front axle instead of behind,
anyone got any thoughts?
Any other ideas would be great,
Oh, just try to remember i'm on a budget, so no "just replace the chassis and the wheels and the motor" comments please!

[BadFingerElmo]

I should probably add my track is an old much loved very bumpy classic layout.

[slot car tragic]

BadFingerElmo, on Jul 7 2007, 05:44 AM, said:

I should probably add my track is an old much loved very bumpy classic layout.

G'day, BFE, looking at the time of yout post, hope you wern't up all night trying to get that Lancia to handle!
My 2 cents worth would be to make sure both front stub axles are rotating freely, sometimes one can be a tight fit and binds. I'd replace the front tyres with a lower profile version(maybe SCX rally tyres or some old ones lying around that you can sand down) and really get that guide nice and deep in the slot.

I often use desoldrering braid from Dick Smith (which is super soft and cheap!!) in the guide shoe or get a pin and tease out the trailing end of the braid for about 1 or 2 mm which will make it softer and help the guide sit lower. I'd put a bit of lead in front of the front axles up near the guide to really push it down as well.

See how that goes and maybe a bit of lead at the rear to balance ot out and if you have some try replacing the rears with Ninco's.

Hope this helps.
Chris.

[kalbfellp]

I will not agree with Chris! Weight under the interior and below the REAR axle. Think I also have some on the sides as well. This is for a routed track with short straights. Front wheels are a pain. I made new axles for mine. The braid Chris mentioned is O/K but I have found it too soft and flattens out very quickly needs adjusting after each race bracket.

Phil

[rmac160]

kalbfellp, on Jul 7 2007, 11:24 AM, said:

I will not agree with Chris! Weight under the interior and below the REAR axle. Think I also have some on the sides as well. This is for a routed track with short straights. Front wheels are a pain. I made new axles for mine. The braid Chris mentioned is O/K but I have found it too soft and flattens out very quickly needs adjusting after each race bracket.

Phil

On my beta I run the Jacar de soldering braid, ninco sprung guide (no spring ) MJK rears and weight in the front only and a solid front axle. and it runs very well keeping with most GR 5 set up cars.

Race for fun R Mac

[kalbfellp]

I assume you both are running magnets? The solid front axle would hav ebeen o lot easier that me making two new stub axles and probably as good.

I have tried several brands of solderwick but found that none had ant spring so would lay flat along the guide after afew minutes racing,still much better that some RTR braids but no where as good as good quality braid.

We run on routed so it would be very different set up.

Phil

[BadFingerElmo]

thanks for the advice guys,
since yesterday i've moved the weight (9 grams) to in front of the front axle,
and added another one and a half grams to each front corner,
maybe i should put all the weight in the corners??
this has helped some more, but it's starting to feel the extra weight on the straights
and it still de-slots at random times,
it does drive like the guide is a bit short but because of the raised rails on my old track
it still gets a little "train track" noise on the braces on the bottem of the track.
i think i'll try loosening the motor pod a touch to see if it helps.

Just looking at the car now, the guide does seem to ride very high,
there's a fair bit of meat on the top of the stub carriers so maybe if i put a solid axle in
i could file a bit out and lower the chassis that way, then trim the bottom of the guide a little
so it'd ride right at the top of the guide (near the braids) instead of half way down.....


I know you know your slot cars Phil,
but i just can't bring myself to put more weight in the back of it!!

[BadFingerElmo]

Well then!
In what no doubt some people would consider an act of blasphemy
i have removed the rear axle from my scap box bound
english made lotus f1 car (C82)
and installed it straight into the front of the lancia!
No cutting and just the right thickness!
And without even getting up fom my comfy spot on the floor
in front of the heater!
The only problem now is the wife's fondness for sleep,
so no track and no dremel till morning!!!
Oh well,
watch this space!

[BadFingerElmo]

Ok, i fell for it,
that damn front body mount!
is my only option moving the mount?
i can do it but it's a pain in the you know were....

[SlotsNZ]

Watching this with great interest. I have a couple of these things "still in box" that I hope to run as a Group 5 class alongside MRRC Celicas and FLY Capris.

Will only be run no-mag on wood.

Phil, noting your comments. Aren't these already "tail happy" without rear end lead? Just looking at them, they "look" like they are going to need similar lead to the (standard front engine) Capri, which I found was mid-to-frontish in the body pan, about 15 grams for shorter tracks - Probably less for a faster track and taller gearing I guess.

How do you find them by comparison with the Capri . . you MUST own some FLY Capris.

sincerely,

Lead apprentice, year one.

[terry]

from my limited plastic chassis car experience I have already found that the guide is a constant worry.

For me I try to concentrate my attention in that area on all of my cars,getting the guide deep into the slot is critical,what might be worth a go is the replacement guide made by tsrf and available from patto,that guide allows you to use the commercial Parma guides and is a very easy fit,cheap as well,on plastic tracks this guide gives me a better "feel".

terry

[kalbfellp]

If running on plastic the deep guides will not work,but to get the guide deeper into the slot just add a small spacer under the guide pivot,if you need to lower it a lot then you may need the Ninco guide with a longer pivot. SlotsNZ yes I have found mone very taily with out some lead in middle,to back area,that is why I assume these guys are running magnets?
No don't have a Capri as such,only a resin RS 3100 that is going on a Venturi chassis.

Phil

[BadFingerElmo]

Ok, here's the first installment for today!

i've been trying a few things before i commit to
properly fitting a solid axle.
first i tried it with the solid axle fitted as is with no up and down play,
it didn't help at all,
but then i tried removing all the weight and the front wheels just to see what happened,
and it's like a new car!! it's stopped the random de-slotting,
it's predictable in corners
it drifts really well and accelerates alot faster without the extra 12 grams weight
in the front....
so it looks like it really is the front wheels holding the front too high that is the problem,
i don't want to fit smaller tyres so i suppose i'll fit the axle and just grind out the top of the stub holders to lower the front.
i've thought about bushing the stubs but it won't lower the front enough i think.
i may try Phils idea to lower the guide first though,

but i'd still like some more ideas about moving the front body mount....

[kalbfellp]

I just use a small washer to move the guide down,easy to remove if it does not work.
Phil

[BadFingerElmo]

It looks like you were right again Phil!

i put the stub axles back in and made up a spacer about two thirds of a mil thick
for the guide and it runs nearly as good as it does without the wheels!
i did have to grind a bit off the top of the guide holder so the guide woukd clip in properly though.
but it looks like it's problem nearly solved!

[BadFingerElmo]

I might try bushing the stubs at a slight angle to get some negative camber.....
then i could reduce the thickness of the shim....

[kalbfellp]

I use brass tube on the Fly's to lower the axle if required, just cut out the top of the axle holes to take the tube put the tube on the axle set the car up on a test board and then glue the tube in place. Think I used thsi method on a 908.

Phil

[BadFingerElmo]

I'm in the middle of doing that right now!
i'll let you know how it goes....

[BadFingerElmo]

Mission accomplished!

I've just finished bushing the front end and it now handles as good as it looks!
i fitted the bushes so the car rides a bit lower making the guide sit deeper in the slot
so now i don't need the spacer under the guide or the extra weight anymore.

I also set it up with a little negative camber (can't do that with a straight axle!) so it rides on the inside of the tyre,
it might help handling a little (i'm not sure) but mainly it gets the wheel further up into the guard,
which looks better..

thanks for all the advice guys,

[kalbfellp]

No problems just glad that you now have a car that you enjoy driving as well as looking at it!

Phil