Race Of Champions Track

[Ember]

Someone does produce Jersey barriers, I just can't think who.

 

But, you could always shape them out of polystyrene, either the beaded variety or the pink/blue expanded insulation variety ([grumble] which I want but can't get in town [/grumble]) Form one that you're happy with and it can be used as a plug to make a mould and cast. Mould could be done in silicone (expensive) or plaster (cheap). Casts could also be achieved in a variety of products, even press-moulding air-dried modelling clay.

[kalbfellp]

You could just search out Jerseywall over on SCI and buy some!

[wizardgm]

I will make the assumption that those dimensions are going to be scaled down to 1/32 !

 

You could "Hot-wire" cut it from FOAM !!

[ZeGas]

Thanks for the responses, I like the hot wire foam cut idea.

I think plaster would be to heavy.

Was tossing around the idea of expanding foam in a custom mold.

Pro's? Cons?

[ZeGas]

I have been doing a bit of scenery lately but no photos to show for it yet.

Got a big? problem, please humour me in your responses as I am not electrically minded.

I know that copper oxidises and don't know if that is the main problem or not.

I have an electrical problem, the cars will not pick up and run.

I am running a 12v battery but my connection to the track is just a few small bolts with the cable connected to it. The copper tape lies over the top of the bolts.

The cars run fine (wheels turn round and light go) if I connect directly to battery but the connection to the track is poor.

If the cars get going they tend to run fine except in a couple of spots on the track which I think might just be poor taping spots.

 

Guess my questions are;

Is copper inherently bad and should I give up and use braid?

If so is there an easy way to install without have to rerout the track as I have barriers, tyre walls and ripple strips in place ? ie. can the braid sit on top or does it have to be recessed?

What is a better way of connecting power supply to track ?

 

I also see that armchairracer.com.au has Braid adhesive tape going cheap, when compared to the full braid any thoughts on that?

You can check it out at http://www.armchairracer.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23400_23484&products_id=246308

 

Any other tips would be great as well

[dangermouse]

Have you soldered the tape to the bolts? I routed a groove about the thickness of the wire and then drilled hole. Copper tape is pushed into the groove the wire comes up from underneath and sits in the groove. I solder the wire to the tape and the put a piece of tape over the top of that and solder both ends of that tape to the existing tape. Use a smooth flat object to push the solder flat right after you apply it.

 

I have had varying experiences with copper tape and conductivity - I have run on a track where there was a 1cm break and the track ran fine and I have had a hairline split and the lane was dead for 80% of the track. I solder any breaks now to maintain conductivity.

 

I don't think braid would work without a recess as it would be too thick and cars would either bump over it on corners and deslot or maybe even pull it up. Braid adhesive tape is to stick the braid to the recess instead of contact glue. Seems to be less of a hassle than glue.

Edited February 15, 2012 by dangermouse

[Mobbzee]

i dont use copper so i cant relly comment on its properties...

but as for the braid it has to be recessed...you wouldn't need to rerout as the recess bit you get has a pin that fits in the already routed groove

 

im not sure what you are asking about the adhesive tape....it is not a braid but a glue to go under braid to stick it down

[ZeGas]

Thanks DM & Mobbzee will try soldering and see if that helps.

Didn't realise that the braid tape was just sticky stuff thanks for clearing that up.

[ZeGas]

Ok debate time - Copper v Aluminium.

 

I know that Al has about 60% the conductivity than Cu

In theory that means you need 1 2/3 more surface area for same conductivity, right? or am I blowin' it.

So if I used 10mm wide Al rather than 6mm wide Cu should have same affect.

For tensile strength it is a bit less as well but if I used 35 micron rather than 30 micron for Cu that should be fine too.

 

The reason I'm putting this out there is that Cu oxidises Al doesn't. Thus should last longer.

 

What about electrical temperature between the car and track would that burn the Al at say 35 microns thick?

 

Can I put the voltage up to create the same conductivity?

 

Does 2*12v=24v (not that I will be doing this, just a theory example) or is it current that changes did electrical at tech/tafe many years ago but the only thing I can remember is that Kirchhoff was a c**t and V=IR?

 

How ductile is it, would I be able to mould around corners, I don't mind a few kinks but hardly want rumble strips?

 

Quite a lot to answer but just trying to think outside the square as the track is undercover but outdoors.

Edited February 16, 2012 by ZeGas

[kalbfellp]

Copper is still the answer. How would you repair any breaks in the Al? and it will break often with expansion and contraction,it will oxidize,and you will not get 10mm wide to go around the corners.

I have raced on tracks with many different conductors,lead,Al,steel,copper tape and Braid. The Copper braid is the best followed my copper tape.

[ZeGas]

Big Thanks to Dangermouse, I sort of followed your instructions and circuit is good.

 

The contractors came in today to help with the track construction took a video of them hard at work.

 

 

Also some photos of work to date, its a bit of a slow process.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 18, 2012 by ZeGas

[Mobbzee]

looking better everytime i look Grant

nice work

[ZeGas]

I have been working on the turn one corner and put up a bit of security fencing.

Looking to extend the gravel out closer to the tyres, the glue overran a bit and now looks like it's been raining so this should tidy it up a bit.

Also going to put a bit of sand down the track side (left hand side of the photos) to line up with the barrier and extend to the rumble strip and extend the tyres around there.

 

 

The toads are loving the security fence. Think they think it's a bloody high jump or something, hit one with a car this evening.

The kids have there own cars and the other day my two year old boy decided it needed to go rallying in his sand pit followed a wash in the pool.

I was flabbergasted that after drying out and getting the air hose onto it it ran better than before. Might try that with my cars....NOT !!

Edited March 14, 2012 by ZeGas

[ZeGas]

A few more of the near complete corner, one down four to go

 

[digby]

Ze spy vs spy Looking good . As hard as it may be Never argue with a two year old.good luck

[ZeGas]

Finally got a few sponsors on board.

 

 

Also had a crack at building a pedestrian overpass.

Made from balsa, painted and paper sponsor stuck to it.

I know one side is short that side is going to have a bit of terrain that will come up to it.

The bridge isn't fixed in place yet so there is still room to alter things.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm not quite sure what to do with the car bridge yet.

I was going to make it brick or blockwork, but I'm not that talented with a dremel and would more than likely stuff it up.

So I found some ready made stick on stonework effect but is pretty expensive for the amount I need and I would still need to come up with the keystone around the arch or it would look rubbish.

Then I thought I would just paint it but think that might be bland.

So at the moment I am thinking I might just set the whole bridge as one big graffiti wall. I am no artist so that will probably be a print.

Tomorrow I'll change my mind again.

Edited April 1, 2012 by ZeGas

[neil]

lookks good

[Graham Lane]

Styrofoam makes fabulous brickwork. Check out my track. I put 20,000 bricks on my viaduct!

 

By the way, I'm lovin' your track. Great use of space the ROC.

Edited April 2, 2012 by Graham Lane

[ZeGas]

Graham,

 

I have checked out your track, I think the whole of the slot community has checked out your track.

The jealousy runs rife in my whanau.

Don't go getting a big headed with the compliments but we are already saving to come over and stay/play a while.

Might make it part of the Tour De France trip I dream of. Be a couple of years away I guess but I have an aim.

[Graham Lane]

If that's the case then I well pleased! I have gained an enormous amount of knowledge from the great tracks I have seen, mostly on slutforum I have to say. If I can help anybody in any way to gain a little inspiration from me then...I'm thrilled.

[ZeGas]

Thinking about using a Scalextric 4 car digital powerbase for the track and have a question.

I am thinking that I will solder cable to each rail of one slot of the powerbase and then connect to the track one for + & one for -.

Am I right in thinking that the power supply is the same from each slot, ie not like analogue where the power goes through the controllers but in parallel as per the drawing below.

 

 

Is this possible.

I am not to clued up with electronics as most will note by some of the simplistic Q's I have asked previously so please be gentle.

 

As you can see I have only one lane and I don't want to insert the powerbase, so I want to wire it up so that I can put a digital car anywhere on the track and push the button to register it on the powerbase.

Am I dreaming or is it possible, in theory it should be I feel.

Edited April 14, 2012 by ZeGas

[teamredracing]

Hey Zegas ,what a top job. Being of the rally fraternity you've done well, it looks great so far. Once it has a bit more landscaping it will come up even better. You may have to watch the copper tape as it is proned to lifting in the temperatures.Yes , Grahams gone all out on his track and what a track it is. Again ,top job

Cheers Craig

[ZeGas]

OK, I have just bought a scalextric digital powerbase from ebay and a couple of controllers, unfortunately I didn't get the transformer but that can come later.

I hope I have done the right thing and all will work as proposed above.

Would still like to know if I am on the right track with this idea and any tips anyone might have will be gratefully accepted.

[ZeGas]

Well Race of Champions occurred in the weekend sounded like it was a good one in Bangkok, well done to the Germans.

Shame One doesn't show sport anymore they used to Televise it.

 

Anyway got back into the track after a long hiatus.

 

Nothing much to show yet, more electronic work finally put into action with the knowledge and advice received by all the good folks around this joint.

http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/15016-new-to-digital-need-help/

 

So track now has magnabraid running 12v (for the kids, and the realism as Graham wanted ... http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/15770-making-slot-racing-more-realistic-a-simple-solution/ ).

and 15v when I want more of a challenge.

BTW below 12v does not work with digital.

 

Got a Scaley PB4 (cheap as chips, if you are thinking about digital and want a cheap way to get into it this is the go)

 

Everything goes like the ducks nuts. The kids play chase game and then when caught its the try and knock each other off game. Thanks god for the impact resistant bodies.

 

Will try to do some scenery of Christmas and post something more worthwhile than this dribble.

 

Anyhoo Merry Christmas to all if I don't update before then.

[ZeGas]

Oh yeah check out this android app for timing it works really well and tuning it to the track is really easy, so I found anyway.

http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/15817-android-chronometer-lapcounter/