Realistic Buildings
Started by rumrunner, Jul 09 2010 01:29 PM
13 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 09 July 2010 - 01:29 PM
I am about to start making buildings for my track. These need to be very realistic. I was wondering whether to use 3mm MDF or Balsa wood for the construction. If I use balsa I would have to coat it with Dope. If I use MDF it might warp. Any ideas out there?
Also I want to have stone walls on the building and I am not sure how to achieve this finish.
Also I want to have stone walls on the building and I am not sure how to achieve this finish.
ok....you try racing with one eye closed.
#2
Posted 09 July 2010 - 03:17 PM
For my building i prefer to use styrene plastic and detail it that way you are able to get all kinds of different styrene in bricks wood etc
#3
Posted 09 July 2010 - 04:55 PM
Rumrunner, I'd let the style of building dictate what you use to build it. Plywood's good if you want something solid, or 3mm MDF. For texture anything can be coated with plasterers joint compound and carved. Or you can go the brick by brick route. So many possibilities really.
Embs
Embs
Logic: (n) A systematic method of confidently coming to the wrong conclusion
Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues
Aging wood - A recipe for staining balsa and other woods
Don't take a fence - Step by step construction of paling fence
An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction
Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues
Aging wood - A recipe for staining balsa and other woods
Don't take a fence - Step by step construction of paling fence
An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction
#4
Posted 09 July 2010 - 06:28 PM
The other alternative is Foam board. It is card with a foam core.
#5
Posted 09 July 2010 - 10:01 PM
I've found that when using foamboard, when coated with a cornice cement type product it will shrink, causing the foamboard to warp.
If you're after a rendered look, use some plywood or similar... something with a bit more strength.
I have applied balsa 'weatherboards' over faomboard with PVA glue with great results.
If you're after a rendered look, use some plywood or similar... something with a bit more strength.
I have applied balsa 'weatherboards' over faomboard with PVA glue with great results.
Cheers,
Dick
SCMR build thread
Woodbrook Valley build thread
"A Man's home is his castle, but his garage is his sanctuary!"
Dick
SCMR build thread
Woodbrook Valley build thread
"A Man's home is his castle, but his garage is his sanctuary!"
#6
Posted 09 July 2010 - 10:20 PM
I think the problem with the foam board is the cardboard/pasteboard covering. Like all paper products it only takes a little moisture to make it swell. If you could seal it before coating it with joint compound or cornice cement.
Logic: (n) A systematic method of confidently coming to the wrong conclusion
Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues
Aging wood - A recipe for staining balsa and other woods
Don't take a fence - Step by step construction of paling fence
An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction
Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues
Aging wood - A recipe for staining balsa and other woods
Don't take a fence - Step by step construction of paling fence
An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction
#7
Posted 10 July 2010 - 01:12 AM
Foam board like any material should be coated both sides. Even MDF will warp IF only coated one side.
Fine render paint gives a good scale render appearance on most materials.
Fine render paint gives a good scale render appearance on most materials.
#8
Posted 10 October 2010 - 05:06 PM
ike all paper products it only takes a little moisture to make it .
#9
Posted 10 October 2010 - 05:51 PM
Looks like we have more spam!
#10
Posted 10 October 2010 - 05:55 PM
lol.....and for a houston car dealer
how bizarre
how bizarre
http://www.auslot.co...panorama-track/ ...My Track
#11
Posted 11 October 2010 - 04:20 PM
I have used thick cardboard to good effect with train layouts. Probably about 1/8th inch thick and do not recall any problem with warping.
Depends what is available to some extent. I just happened to have a cheap/possibly free supply at time. Found it was also easy to work with providing you had a sharp knife.
Size of building could also impact but perhaps stiffen larger ones by adding floors. Presume they will have roof anyway.
Regards
Chas Le Breton
Depends what is available to some extent. I just happened to have a cheap/possibly free supply at time. Found it was also easy to work with providing you had a sharp knife.
Size of building could also impact but perhaps stiffen larger ones by adding floors. Presume they will have roof anyway.
Regards
Chas Le Breton
#12
Posted 11 October 2010 - 07:56 PM
Find your local model railway shop. Building structures is as important to them as the trains themselves. Or Google the subject.
For the best knives, look on ebay for medical scalpels and replacement blades. They are the sharpest you can buy. BUT PLEASE BE CAREFUL!!!!
For the best knives, look on ebay for medical scalpels and replacement blades. They are the sharpest you can buy. BUT PLEASE BE CAREFUL!!!!
Edited by Bulsara, 11 October 2010 - 07:57 PM.
Gort, Klaatu barada nikto.
My poor Krell!
After a million years of shining sanity...
they could hardly have understood what power was destroying them.
My poor Krell!
After a million years of shining sanity...
they could hardly have understood what power was destroying them.
#13
Posted 11 October 2010 - 10:03 PM
i use both balsa and styrene depends on what im building have found a great soruce of styrene here in adel it JTT secenery they do all kinds of bricks diamind plate etc and its cheap 6.50 for 2 sheets and they do g scale gum trees too that look sweet
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
















