Jump to content


Realistic Buildings


13 replies to this topic

#1 rumrunner

    Kart Driver

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 60 posts
  • Location:Adelaide

Posted 09 July 2010 - 01:29 PM

I am about to start making buildings for my track. These need to be very realistic. I was wondering whether to use 3mm MDF or Balsa wood for the construction. If I use balsa I would have to coat it with Dope. If I use MDF it might warp. Any ideas out there?

Also I want to have stone walls on the building and I am not sure how to achieve this finish.
ok....you try racing with one eye closed.

#2 ontheinfield@hotmail.com

    Kart Driver

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts

Posted 09 July 2010 - 03:17 PM

For my building i prefer to use styrene plastic and detail it that way you are able to get all kinds of different styrene in bricks wood etc

#3 Ember

    Diorama queen alert

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4155 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Hamilton, Victoria

Posted 09 July 2010 - 04:55 PM

Rumrunner, I'd let the style of building dictate what you use to build it. Plywood's good if you want something solid, or 3mm MDF. For texture anything can be coated with plasterers joint compound and carved. Or you can go the brick by brick route. So many possibilities really.

Embs
Logic: (n) A systematic method of confidently coming to the wrong conclusion

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues

Aging wood - A recipe for staining balsa and other woods

Don't take a fence - Step by step construction of paling fence

An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

#4 kalbfellp

    Formula 1 Driver

  • Auslotters
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7186 posts
  • Location:Hobart, Tasmania

Posted 09 July 2010 - 06:28 PM

The other alternative is Foam board. It is card with a foam core.

#5 knoath

    Formula 3 Driver

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 3306 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Melbourne's north

Posted 09 July 2010 - 10:01 PM

I've found that when using foamboard, when coated with a cornice cement type product it will shrink, causing the foamboard to warp.

If you're after a rendered look, use some plywood or similar... something with a bit more strength.

I have applied balsa 'weatherboards' over faomboard with PVA glue with great results.
Cheers,
Dick


SCMR build thread
Woodbrook Valley build thread

"A Man's home is his castle, but his garage is his sanctuary!"

#6 Ember

    Diorama queen alert

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4155 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Hamilton, Victoria

Posted 09 July 2010 - 10:20 PM

I think the problem with the foam board is the cardboard/pasteboard covering. Like all paper products it only takes a little moisture to make it swell. If you could seal it before coating it with joint compound or cornice cement.
Logic: (n) A systematic method of confidently coming to the wrong conclusion

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues

Aging wood - A recipe for staining balsa and other woods

Don't take a fence - Step by step construction of paling fence

An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

#7 kalbfellp

    Formula 1 Driver

  • Auslotters
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7186 posts
  • Location:Hobart, Tasmania

Posted 10 July 2010 - 01:12 AM

Foam board like any material should be coated both sides. Even MDF will warp IF only coated one side.

Fine render paint gives a good scale render appearance on most materials.

#8 vinu1234

    Video Game Driver

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 5 posts

Posted 10 October 2010 - 05:06 PM

ike all paper products it only takes a little moisture to make it .

#9 kalbfellp

    Formula 1 Driver

  • Auslotters
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7186 posts
  • Location:Hobart, Tasmania

Posted 10 October 2010 - 05:51 PM

Looks like we have more spam!

#10 Mobbzee

    VW Bug Man

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 800 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Dunbogan NSW

Posted 10 October 2010 - 05:55 PM

lol.....and for a houston car dealer

how bizarre :) :lol:

#11 charlesx

    Kart Driver

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 517 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Plymouth, NZ

Posted 11 October 2010 - 04:20 PM

I have used thick cardboard to good effect with train layouts. Probably about 1/8th inch thick and do not recall any problem with warping.

Depends what is available to some extent. I just happened to have a cheap/possibly free supply at time. Found it was also easy to work with providing you had a sharp knife.

Size of building could also impact but perhaps stiffen larger ones by adding floors. Presume they will have roof anyway.

Regards

Chas Le Breton

#12 Bulsara

    2 hr Enduro Champion x 1

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1276 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Liverpool NSW

Posted 11 October 2010 - 07:56 PM

Find your local model railway shop. Building structures is as important to them as the trains themselves. Or Google the subject.

For the best knives, look on ebay for medical scalpels and replacement blades. They are the sharpest you can buy. BUT PLEASE BE CAREFUL!!!!

Edited by Bulsara, 11 October 2010 - 07:57 PM.

Gort, Klaatu barada nikto.

My poor Krell!

After a million years of shining sanity...
they could hardly have understood what power was destroying them.

#13 ontheinfield@hotmail.com

    Kart Driver

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts

Posted 11 October 2010 - 10:03 PM

i use both balsa and styrene depends on what im building have found a great soruce of styrene here in adel it JTT secenery they do all kinds of bricks diamind plate etc and its cheap 6.50 for 2 sheets and they do g scale gum trees too that look sweet

#14 356speedster

    Kart Driver

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 340 posts
  • Location:Norway

Posted 12 October 2010 - 02:16 AM

Lot to learn from the diorama and railroad guys :)



They build most of the buildings from either laser cut wood kits or from scratch using "scale lumber"

Here's my first attempt from some time ago

Posted Image

It's fun but takes time, so it's not finished yet :)

Posted Image
Posted Image





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users