60 replies to this topic

[Camber]

Just chasing some info on how many tracks out there with Ferrodor use a clear coat over the top?
Un-cleared Ferrodor does seem abrasive, but is this a major issue? I would think the clear coat would make the surface almost smooth again.
Another option may be to use a thinned down clear so it takes some, but not all of the abrasion from the surface.

Thanks

- Cam

[Sports Racer]

What's the point of using an expensive paint like Ferrodor then painting over it? You may as well paint the track just with the same paint as the clear but tinted black.

Edited by Sports Racer, 13 June 2010 - 12:53 AM.

[kalbfellp]

Ferrodor is very abrasive and wears tyres Like racing on wet and dry sandpaper. It also scratches the paintwork. Some people use clear coat over it to reduce the rough texture. I used it simply because it was free and I liked the colour BUT hated the abrasive surface so used 2 coat of clear over the top. BUY could have simply used tinted enamel paint for the same result.

[Johnnyfly41]

I am in the states and my track surface is Plast Dip, applied with a foam roller.

Very good grip, not abrasive, does not sluff off on your tires, rubber will lay down on it. It's not cheap either and in Oz is even worse. Two gallons cost me 130 dollars, more than enough for a 85' three lane track.

I know that some in Oz have overcoated painted wood and plastic track with spray Plasti Dip clear and their initial reports were that they loved the surface. sounds like the spray cans are readily available in Oz, gallon cans harder to find.

For what it's worth.

j.

www.pretzelcityspeedway.com

[Rob]

Ferrodor is very abrasive any thing that can dull the edge of high speed steel tools has to be! Its tough on bodies when you stack and yes its scratches them. As Phil said its like racing on a tyre truer. But there are different colours from a light grey through to a almost black and people seem to get different levels of abrasivness from them. I used the darkest one with a roller at first, looked awsome stunk like hell when applying it and not a bad result. Im n the process of repaining the track with the half can of ferrodore left this time with a brush in the direction of the road surface and it isnt as highly textured and im much happer with that. My experience its like going from a course gritsand paper to a fine in a brush stroke.
My next track I think I will head down the path our kiwi mates seem to like and try some gloss. Either that or learn to drive with the shiney side up

[knoath]

Many people say it wears the tyres really bad and yes, on some tracks it does... but it's all dependant on the type of Ferrodor used and the way it is applied.
As Rob said, using the same can but applied differently, he has achieved a different surface.
If you do want to use it, try different applications... brush, roller and different roller types (foam, long, short nap)
Better still, find a few different Ferrodor tracks and see for yourself.

If you're racing shelf queens and don't want them scratched, stay away from it.
I don't see the point spending good money on Ferrodor only to clear coat it.

I considered it after hearing the 'sandpaper' stories, but now I wouldn't bother. My track seems to be very smooth compared to others.... I have used a mix of the lightest and mid Ferrodors, and occasionally I can stay on my wheels, not my roof!

Cheers,
Dick

[gref]

I used "St Enoch" on my track which is the lightest of the Ferrador colors and the least course of the range. I applied mine first with a roller then brush but result was same both ways. It has good grip, doesn't wear tyres badly and doesn't scratch cars as bad as the darker versions. Doesn't really scratch them at all.

To me putting clear over Ferador would be like wearing a muscle top under your blouse

[slots]

As any good painter will tell you, you use a roller to get a textured finish to any paint and a brush for a smooth finish. The roller actually lifts the paint as it goes across the surface. Some use the clear coat to reduce the surface roughness but as others said, if the light colours are used, you won't need the clear coat. It does have iron filings in it hence the Ferro part in the name.

[jazzbell]

Our 4 tracks at thunderbird raceway are all ferrodor. 2 of the tracks were re done 12 months ago,all brush painted. These tracks being fresh the grip level was not like the other 2 tracks. Grip level lacked reason being no rubber line and no one would practice on the fresh tracks,tyres were just shreding. It has taken a good 12 months for the tracks to be up to standard.

One question,with clear coat over the ferrodor,what is grip level like and what tyre choice is more common?

regards shane a

team thunderbird

Edited by jazzbell, 13 June 2010 - 11:41 AM.

[Yngwie]

I have Ferrodor with the "Bocoat" finish. I covered mine with a watered down Cabot's Satin clear. Grip levels are the same as when there was no clear coat. It does protect the bodies a little. In terms of tyres that work, I find the P6's best as well as NSR's. MJK's a re definitely not as good as the ones mentioned.

Regards

John

[Camber]

jazzbell, on Jun 13 2010, 11:40 AM, said:

Grip level lacked reason being no rubber line and no one would practice on the fresh tracks,tyres were just shreding. It has taken a good 12 months for the tracks to be up to standard.

Interesting that tyres were shredding and a lack of grip.

Yngwie, on Jun 13 2010, 12:31 PM, said:

I have Ferrodor with the "Bocoat" finish. I covered mine with a watered down Cabot's Satin clear. Grip levels are the same as when there was no clear coat. It does protect the bodies a little. In terms of tyres that work, I find the P6's best as well as NSR's. MJK's a re definitely not as good as the ones mentioned.

Mine is the darkest colour, natural steel grey which I love...looks like a real road.
With the watered down Cabot's clear, is there still some roughness to the surface?

Thanks for all the responses.

- Cam

[Yngwie]

Mine still has a reasonable amount of roughness. Bo's track has significantly less roughness to it than mine. I used the darkest shade of Ferrodor and lightened with white!

Regards

[kalbfellp]

Mine is virtually the same as Satin Enamel finish, NSR's are the highest grip, to Much for some cars and drivers. I run erethane on cars with motors up to about standard Scalex and then with higher out put motors run NSR's.
Most Ninco rubber tyres also work well if trued and polished.
We used Ferrodor back in the sixties with HARD rubber tyres and hard sponge, we needed the sand paper like surface to give good grip then,BUT tyres are now much softer and will grip on most painted surfaces once some rubber is layed down.

Edited by kalbfellp, 13 June 2010 - 01:54 PM.

[jazzbell]

Camber, on Jun 13 2010, 01:08 PM, said:

jazzbell, on Jun 13 2010, 11:40 AM, said:

Grip level lacked reason being no rubber line and no one would practice on the fresh tracks,tyres were just shreding. It has taken a good 12 months for the tracks to be up to standard.

Interesting that tyres were shredding and a lack of grip.
- Cam

Alot of the shredding is due to our soft treated tyres.

The grip is nothing on the fresh painted track,compared to the tracks with ferrodor with alot rubber laid. No body uses urethene tyres,all NSR.

regards shane a

team thunderbird

[Syd]

jazzbell, on Jun 13 2010, 12:07 PM, said:

Camber, on Jun 13 2010, 01:08 PM, said:

jazzbell, on Jun 13 2010, 11:40 AM, said:

Grip level lacked reason being no rubber line and no one would practice on the fresh tracks,tyres were just shreding. It has taken a good 12 months for the tracks to be up to standard.

Interesting that tyres were shredding and a lack of grip.
- Cam

Alot of the shredding is due to our soft treated tyres.

The grip is nothing on the fresh painted track,compared to the tracks with ferrodor with alot rubber laid. No body uses urethene tyres,all NSR.

regards shane a

team thunderbird

I have found that the level of abrasiveness can be varied by how much you mix the paint as all the metal in Ferrodor sinks to the bottom of the can quite quickly.When I painted my track, I wanted a high level of grip, I would stir the can with an electric drill then pour it out into the roller tray but if it was let settle the particles would sink to the bottom of the can. This can be accellerated by thinning the paint with a suitable thinner. A friend of mine sprayed his track with Ferrodore only to have to roll it later because the particles dropping out of the when it was thinned down. nice finished but it may have well been painted gloss! We only use MJK and stock tyres on our tracks over here with no tyre treatments and no silicones. Hope this helps

[knoath]

Should have mentioned with my track we use the same as Syd, tyre wise.

Quote

We only use MJK and stock tyres on our tracks over here with no tyre treatments and no silicones

[Camber]

I'm thinking I might run with the raw surface and see how it goes. If I dont like it, I'll put some clear over the top. Consensus seems to be no silicons, this should make tyre choices easier.

This got me thinking, I wonder how finely chopped rubber mixed with paint would go as a surface? Maybe the benefits of Ferrodor without the harshness.

Thanks again.

Edited by Camber, 15 June 2010 - 06:37 PM.

[Yngwie]

Camber, I am by no means an expert on track building but have built 3 so far! I have tried flat acryllic paint, dulux river rock, satin enamel and ferrodor. I have a Ferrodor track mainly because that is what everyone else I race with has which makes car setups a little easier. Gripwise, I find it the best as well. Yes you may scratch some cars if you roll them but then I am not a collector and think that scratches are part of the deal. If you are researching, try asking a few of the Sydney guys to have a look at our tracks. You are most welcome to visit mine if interested!!

Regards

John

[munter]

Would it be fair to say that "ferradore abrasive track surface" is an Australia only phenomena?
I wonder about the origins of this.
TIA

[kalbfellp]

We used Ferrodor on the first HMCC track in 1966, I think this was about the time that it was released in Australia, Mel might know the history of it. At that time sponge tyres were hard and so was rubber tyres,we used both on the track and the surface was good. BUT it would wear even the hard Cox tyres.