10 replies to this topic

[M3Fanatic]

There have been numerious threads on chassis tuning where gluing of the motors to the pods or cradles are recommended. I wondered why you would do this if there was the option to use appropriate mounting screws. For instance Slot.it have in their range of accessories a pack of motor mount screws/washers. I realise some pods do not have screw holes on them, but why wouldn't the screws be sufficient to hold the motors in place? Is it because the screws would only fix one end of the motor in position?

[gzminiz]

good question, i only glue if there are no screws to mount it (either in the cradle or the motor) but never considered not holding the other side.

[FLY in the wall]

I believe only FK motor types have the facility to be able to use screws. Not sure about FF.

On Ninco cars I usually drill a hole in the chassis and use a screw. I have a brass chassis car where the motor mounts are slotted and it only has one screw holding the motor.

I think people glue because it is easy and makes getting the correct gear clearance easier. On cars where the motor is flush with the bottom of the chassis I like to use aluminium foil tape. Also looks cool.

[rick1776]

Im pretty sure FC and FF motor s also have screw holes in the can. Would need to check though.

Why not get the best out of both worlds. Glue the screws in

Hat coat Im outa here.

[kalbfellp]

I always prefer to screw!

[MOPARDEVIL]

I find that if you can add a screw to attach motor. I will. If there is not hole in the motor I glue it in. I just find that either screwing or glueing you motor in helps smooth the car out. Way less vibration. I use hot glue by the way.

[FLY in the wall]

kalbfellp, on May 6 2010, 12:39 PM, said:

I always prefer to screw!

There always has to be one

I live in Bangkok so I reserve the right to say nothing on the grounds that anything I say may incriminate me.

Edited by FLY in the wall, 06 May 2010 - 10:26 PM.

[Sports Racer]

Screws come loose. Glue doesn't.

For my proxy cars I always glue the motors in with Araldite (clear, 2 part epoxy). It's nice and stiff so doesn't allow the motor to vibrate and it's easy to get the motor out anytime I want. Just gently bend the chassis or cradle a few times and the glue loosens it's grip on the plastic.

Cheers

Paul

[kalbfellp]

Quote

Screws come loose.

Nothing worse that a loose screw! They don't come loose IF you use either lock washer or Loctite. Lot easier to get the motor out later.

[M3Fanatic]

kalbfellp, on May 8 2010, 11:33 AM, said:

Quote

Screws come loose.

Nothing worse that a loose screw! They don't come loose IF you use either lock washer or Loctite. Lot easier to get the motor out later.

I think I like the idea of just using screws/washer where possible but may resort to glue where there is no option. I do find the screws/washers available from Slot.it work well wherever I've used them.

[haystack]

M3Fanatic, on May 10 2010, 11:46 AM, said:

kalbfellp, on May 8 2010, 11:33 AM, said:

Quote

Screws come loose.

Nothing worse that a loose screw! They don't come loose IF you use either lock washer or Loctite. Lot easier to get the motor out later.

I think I like the idea of just using screws/washer where possible but may resort to glue where there is no option. I do find the screws/washers available from Slot.it work well wherever I've used them.

If you had the choice, particularly with angle winder cars, it is not so much the mode of fixing, but that you fix it so it can't move in two or more planes. This is where just screwing to posts falls down, because the motor can still flex
longitudinally and wreck your gear mesh in a crash, or sit up at the opposite end of the motor and warp your chassis, ruining your handling.

If you want best, glue or screw to motor post, AND glue or tape along the side(s) of the motor forming a box section with your fastening points

Edited by haystack, 10 May 2010 - 03:25 PM.