27 replies to this topic

[Vinno]

My current race car project is to set up a car to race at Armchair Racers GT series this year. The rules are similar to our own race groups class rules with Non magnet and aluminium wheels allowed. The control motor is the Slot.it orange can with most manufacturers having a representation of ome cars. I have chosen the Ninco Lamborghini Muchcielago as it is my favourite of the GT cars racing overseas. Below are some mods I have done to make the car reliable and competitive. Some I have picked up on the forum and others are just trial and error. I don't claim any of them as my own but I have found they do work on wood tracks.

In this picture I have the pieces of circuit board cut out and ready for epoxying into the chassis for bracing. This was tip I picked up from another member on here, I can't remember who, but it works very well on our routed MDF tracks when racing Ninco Cars. I have had quite a bit of success in our group running with this set up.


I prep the chassis by removing the magnet mount and giving the chassis a sand to get good adhesion of the 5 Minute Aryldite I use.


I tape over the holes so that when I clamp the chassis down it doesn't stick to the surface.


As you can see I don't remove the copper coating on the PCB anymore as it is more work and doesn't cause any issues. This is a before Epoxy shot.


After seeing the Sloting Plus single piece axle bushing kit I thought I might try adding an extra piece of Circuit Board across the bushing mount to stiffen mthat area too. I fitted the Ninco 3/32 bushes first along with the axle to make sure all was aligned. Everything is Glued in place including the bushes, As the bushes have holes around the circumference you need to be careful when glueing. I now use a magnifying set of goggles to help as the old eyes seem to have lost their way a bit once I hit the 40's. The motor will also be glued once I have set up the gear mesh correctly.


I will put up some more pictures as I move along with the build. It was good to be able to do a bit of this on Australia day as it was too hot to do much else today, over 40 degrees again here.

[Count]

Brilliant, Vinno. I really need this...thanks, and keep 'em coming!

Do you make some kind of template to cut the odd shapes out of the PCB? and what do you cut it with?

Count

[Ontheflipside]

Nice work Vinno, Does that remove all the flex between the motor and axle

[jazzbell]

Vinno,

We all know how bent the ninco chassis are when they come out the box.
Could you share with us how you straighten your chassis.We all have our different methods,but i would like to hear your method.

Nice work

regards shane a

team thunderbird

[Sports Racer]

Impressive. Very neat and exceptional workmanship. Thanks for sharing,

I will start on mine tomorrow night. I presume you used a nibbler to cut the shape?

[dangermouse]

Thanks Vinno I have a Gallardo and a Lexus that will get a bit of attention now looks like a great way to brace the cars. Can you tell me a little more about the PC Board you use. Is it the stuff from Jaycar / DSE? or have you found a cheaper source? (maybe they are the cheapest I don't know the going rate of PCB ) Do you know if PCB varies in thickness - on the DSE web it described as heavy duty?

Ok I was going to ask how you cut the stuff but thought I would sound like a goose, then Sports Racer asked if you used a nibbler (which I googled) - so now I have to ask how do you cut it?

cheers
DM

Edited by dangermouse, 26 January 2010 - 11:13 PM.

[munter]

Quote

Nice work Vinno, Does that remove all the flex between the motor and axle

Yes, very nice work and no,that wont stop the axle/gear/motor flex,more bracing is still to be done.

It is my understanding that Ninco chassis' are made kind of prebent so when the long can motor is pushed in, it straightens itself...
might be true but I never trusted this theory and would rather make sure everything was aligned myself and then fix things in place.

Another point I am surprised to see is the motor spacer placement.It is obviously made for the endbell end.
The weight must be uneven if you do it that way though,most of the weight is in the can.
Also there doesnt seem to be a lot of motorshaft to play with for pinion alignment.
Maybe its just the angle of the photos.

regards

ps PC board dust is injurious to your health so take care

[jazzbell]

munter, on Jan 27 2010, 04:00 AM, said:

Quote

Nice work Vinno, Does that remove all the flex between the motor and axle

Yes, very nice work and no,that wont stop the axle/gear/motor flex,more bracing is still to be done.

It is my understanding that Ninco chassis' are made kind of prebent so when the long can motor is pushed in, it straightens itself...

Munter,
I believe it does need more bracing,but that method vinno has used does help.That bracing does act very simallar to the 1 piece slotting plus axle set up.What vinno has done i've been doing in my ninco 's for a few
years now.
I come from a go-karting back ground,in which a simillar set was the same.Axle brace it was called.To me the same principle applys.It helps stop the flex in the rear end.

As for press the motor in it straighten its self,dont ever believe that,it makes things worse.To much stress and bends things more.

regards shane a

team thunderbird

[munter]

OK Shane,Yep that cross member between the bearing tops is a good plan,in metal flexi chassis setup this is done too.
What is not shown is the motor to bearing top/rear chassis bracing which prevents gear mesh fluctuations etc.
This is the prime mod to counteract the ninco(and others)hoppy hop.

regards

[kalbfellp]

Quote

motor to bearing top/rear chassis bracing

IMO this is the single most important part of the tuning to prevent the dreaded "Ninco Hop"

[dangermouse]

Hi John and Phil, I think I know what you mean and if I do, I think someone has posted a photo before but in case I am wrong....
'please insert photo here' of motor to bearing top/rear chassis bracing

cheers
DM

[manic35]

Yes please, I'd also like to see a photo of a Ninco chassis setup with the 'motor to bearing top/rear chassis bracing' - Thanx in advance.

This is a GREAT topic Vinno, many thanks for sharing your setup. I realise these mods are primarily for running on wood but do you think there any performance gains to be made when running with magnets on plastic with bracing?

Given munter highlighting that PC board dust is injurious to your health, is there a better bracing material?

[Rob]

manic35, on Jan 27 2010, 10:05 AM, said:

Given munter highlighting that PC board dust is injurious to your health, is there a better bracing material?

I've used 1mm thick Aluminium strip epoxyed into place which works for me.

[munter]

The PCB dust....you will only create dust when grinding,filing,sawing or using a dremel cutoff wheel.
If you are careful with where you do it and wear lung protection it is fine..cough,cough

For the aforementioned bracing I use brazing rod or piano wire cut and bent to shape then epoxied into place.

I have shown this before and is years old now.

A more recent chassis piece from my merc300sl...yes its a ninco chassis.

[jazzbell]

munter, on Jan 27 2010, 06:14 AM, said:

OK Shane,Yep that cross member between the bearing tops is a good plan,in metal flexi chassis setup this is done too.
What is not shown is the motor to bearing top/rear chassis bracing which prevents gear mesh fluctuations etc.
This is the prime mod to counteract the ninco(and others)hoppy hop.

regards

munter,
I stated it does need more bracing in the start of my post.

I know more bracing is required.

I refered it to what you said in your first posting

When i learn how to post pictures up, i'll show some of my methods of rear end braceings,simple and efective.

regards shane a

team thunderbird

Edited by jazzbell, 27 January 2010 - 01:42 PM.

[munter]

Quote

i'll show some of my methods of rear end braceings,simple and efective.

Cool Shane,there is always more than one way to do stuff like this.
In my scaley muscle car I used wood for bracing!
A nice chunk of wooden spatula like the doctors use...say aaaaah!
regards


ps maybe Vinno would like a turn now?

Edited by munter, 27 January 2010 - 01:56 PM.

[dangermouse]

In the second photo John, does the wire touch the bearing?

cheers
DM

[Davnic74]

This car won at Dapto last year, it's is a piece of rigid plastic i just aireldite into place.

Edited by Davnic74, 27 January 2010 - 05:03 PM.

[Vinno]

Count

Yes to template.

Flippa

The Board along with glueing the motor removes the flex between axle and chassis.

Jazzbell

My chassis have all been good but clamping it down after Arylditing the board would remove any chance of warped chassis I would imagine.

I bought the board from Jaycar about 18 months ago so can't remeber price. I cut it with my Dremel and a cutting disc. I know everyone has their own way but I have found this completely eliminates any axle hop so have stuck with it. Not saying mine is the best idea but it works for me. Devious Dave who races in our group uses the brace like Munters so I have seen a few different ones. I have set up about 8 Ninco chassis with this set up now.

[FPV GTP]

This is my bracing

I use 20x12x1.6 aluminium angle cut to shape.



1 for the front & 1 for behind the motor


Back of motor


Front of motor


Angles are glued to motor & chassis

Mario

Edited by FPV GTP, 27 January 2010 - 06:03 PM.