12 replies to this topic

[bov]

Hi Guys,

I'm looking for opinions / solutions to this conundrum....

When you want to secure Sport track to a table top, you would use the C8232 Track Side Clips...

But - if you use the Sport borders, the 'slots' in the track ends that the clips fit into are then inaccessable....

So, what methods are there for mounting the complete track / borders on both sides assembly?

I'm thinking perhaps some kind of flexible, easy to remove adhesive (say, some kind of silicone?); or maybe drilling tiny holes for very fine tacks between the lanes; or

Thanks for your help...

[aussieslotter]

No need to fix track to table, leads to buckling during hot weather. Save your time and money.

[Steve61]

Quote

No need to fix track to table, leads to buckling during hot weather

I've found that if you don't secure the track it buckles. My scaley sports admittedly is only on the carpet, but the straight sections have a definite curve to them that clips might have helped

[charlesx]

I have not currently got a semi permanent/permanent Scalextric track but heading that way soon. Want to be able to stand baseboard on side so hence need to fasten.

Appear to be two scenarios discussed. One talks of buckling if track not fastened but if I interpret correctly can also buckle if fastened too tightly (i.e. plastic expands in the sun and fastening systems will not allow to expand).

Was latter correct interpretation. Also are you talking of direct sunlight or just warmer weather. Another question might be whether buckling/expansion in both directions or just cross sectional. If only latter would it get over problem if only fastened in one place so it can expand in either direction from that point.

Above aside Sport track appears much better than older Classic track which did buckle very easily. It tended to affect slot as well. Have also noticed the surface of Sport track can buckle slightly or become uneven. Has anybody had that problem.

Regards Chas Le Breton

[Ember]

My take is to secure the borders and let them hold the track in place. That gives room for the track to expand and flex if necessary.

The expansion factor will depend largely on where the track is and what sort of temperature fluctuation you get. My track has been set up on a permanent basis since February with no noticeable issues. Travelled through a hot summer and cold of winter. However, it is in an insulated shed/bungalow, so the fluctuations in temperature are slow.

[bov]

Hey Ember,

I think you've hit the nail on the head (to use a terrible pun...)

I also asked this question on SCI, and as was pointed out - unless you need to store the table top on it's side (as I did with an earlier layout / not with this one), it's really only horizontal movement that you want to control.

As has been said, allowing for a bit of vertical movement may not be a bad thing....

So, what I'm going to try to do is assemble the track and borders in position, and once I'm satisfied with the alignment of the various pieces, pop the red/white rumble strips out of the border sections and put a fine screw / nail under that strip to secure the lot.....

Well, that's the plan....

Thanks for your valuable input!

[Dwanted1]

Ember, on Oct 26 2009, 09:49 AM, said:

My take is to secure the borders and let them hold the track in place. That gives room for the track to expand and flex if necessary.

The expansion factor will depend largely on where the track is and what sort of temperature fluctuation you get. My track has been set up on a permanent basis since February with no noticeable issues. Travelled through a hot summer and cold of winter. However, it is in an insulated shed/bungalow, so the fluctuations in temperature are slow.

I've went the same way as you Embs,but not overly happy with it.The clips on the borders soon break off when you have long straights.I'm now thinking of drilling holes on the underside(not on the actual top of the track,but on the little flaps on the underside of each track section) of my ninco track in a few places,& then feeding cable ties to the base.cheers

Tomi.

[Ember]

Fine flat head screw under the ripple strips should be fine. I couldn't afford to buy Scaley borders for the full length of my track, plus I wanted some variation in the width in areas. So I finished up making my own borders. But even if the clip/lugs break off the Scaley edges, they should still work to squeeze the track and hold it in place.

[kiwipete]

One of my fellow racers has a 60 to 70ft scaley sports track on a large table that folds up onto the garage wall. He fixed the track to the table top using small electrical cable ties threaded through the holes in the bottom of the slots and every third or fourth track section and then through holes in the table top. It works well with all tracks sitting flat. No problems with guides hitting cable ties if you use thin ones.
KiwiPete

[X-WING]

Does having the track on a board against carpet stop the slight twisting in the track?. I have my track on carpet thats about 25mm thick for last 10-12 weeks as its about 12-14m in tolal with a 5m straight but ive noticed some twisting in it and the X over getting a bow as well am i better cutting a board and running it under the track in self?.

[charlesx]

Hi all.

My brother has a 21m 2 lane Sport Track. We have done away with Scaly borders and replaced with MDF of same thickness as track. Had to use 3mm and 4.75mm to get right thickness. This enables cars to slide out in realistic fashion without hitting barriers. We race mainly non-magnet so this freedom is essential. See track in main forum under NZ.

If you still want verge marking you can paint that on. For barriers you can use original Scaly ones (just bore holes at appropriate positions) but put back further from corners so cars do not hit them. Not sure if you can buy separate Scaly ones but know there are Ninco ones available. You can then sell existing borders and get more cars.

Re fastening, our track was a bit bunkled so used small Marklin train screws to secure around middle of track where required. To date they have not caused a problem. I intend to do the same with mine. These are really fine and can barely be seen. You need to countersink hole slightly so be careful you do not go right thru. I am sure there are other small screws that would be equally suitable.

Regards

Chas Le Breton

[glengtl1]

I use the mdf borders mentioned above which hold the track inplace but its not A tight fit so if it wants to move it can, much more cost affective than Scaley borders,but i only use 9mm as when i screw it down it gets pretty close to hieght requirements.I mainly have it for the 1/16 cars as they need that extra track width.It depends on what you like cause i reckon bumps and off camber track are better than a perfect flat track Havenn't been to one race track yet that doesnt have bumps . But thats me I wont be happy till slot cars actually have working brakes and fully adjustable suspension,I reckon mdf to hold it in place unless you need to lift up the board against a wall , otherwise not required,
Gotta go theres a cyclone at the door!

Glen

[charlesx]

Hi all.

Must stress that centre screws for track were only used as required but this would probably be different if want to tip on side for storage.

MDF is screwed down however as mine is in smaller sections to make it easier to fit. I note the use of 9mm but I found the two layers made it easy to use the 3mm as a pattern and then use as packer under thicker piece once cut.

Otherwise both are probably perfectly adequate. If MDF is a bit proud it is easy to sand/bevel it down to suit.

Somebody suggested it might be easier and cheaper just to make a wooden track but I am not sure of that.

Regards

Chas Le Breton