Timing Sensors & Start/finish Line
#1
Posted 28 July 2009 - 09:27 AM
I am about to install my timing sensors & dont want to have to redo my start line ive already painted in.
thanks
greg
Greg
#2
Posted 28 July 2009 - 09:45 AM
Cheers
#3
Posted 28 July 2009 - 10:23 AM
Trakmate (DOS) gives you 1 lap as soon as you cross the sensors,(but everyone gets the extra lap, so it dosn't effect the outcome)
Startline just starts the timer going, and dosn't give your 1st lap until youv'e been around the track once.
not sure on the others, thats something for the users of other software to answer.
#4
Posted 28 July 2009 - 10:51 AM
rick1776
#5
Posted 28 July 2009 - 11:42 AM
Greg
#6
Posted 28 July 2009 - 11:59 AM
#7
Posted 28 July 2009 - 05:45 PM
Count

Ask not what MDF can do to you, rather ask what you can do to MDF!
#8
Posted 28 July 2009 - 06:19 PM
Count, on Jul 28 2009, 05:45 PM, said:
Count
Ok great count, so just to confirm for ur30 the cars need to be on/over the sensors at the start of the race, not before or after.
Greg
Greg
#9
#10
Posted 28 July 2009 - 07:01 PM
PS i use UR30
#11
Posted 28 July 2009 - 07:06 PM
#13
Posted 28 July 2009 - 07:20 PM
#14
Posted 28 July 2009 - 08:02 PM
Did come across relatively simple plan for start sequence/lights however that has hard wired system worked from controllers. Perhaps this could be incorparated into your system?
<http://picprojects.org.uk/projects/sc/sc.htm>
Apart from that interested to know also how you have wired to work with computer as complete novice and do not want to blow computer up. Any help would be most welcome.
Regards
Chas Le Breton
#15
Posted 28 July 2009 - 08:37 PM
Yngwie, on Jul 28 2009, 07:30 PM, said:
Count is correct. The cars have to start BEHIND the sensors, so it is usual to have the sensors on the start finish line - but hey, put them where-ever if you want. But UR3.0 BEGINS the first lap when cars pass over the sensor, which also acts to determine a false start if someone jumps the gun.
If you started the cars in front of the sensors, you would not have any proof whether someone jumped the gun.
If you are using power relays, that becomes immaterial, but you wont start your first lap until you have COMPLETED one, if you start your cars after the sensor.
If you want to have dead track starts, JayCar make a little kit that has a 10? 15? amp relay, that can be triggered by software like UR3.0 wired via the usual pin ports for any one lane, and you simply have the relay wired to interrupt the power to ALL lanes before it splits off to each controller jack. This is a bit simpler than building a 3 or 4 lane version of the power control Pierrick has on his site, but DOESN'T provide for the option of bad start time/lap penalties, just a facility to begin races from "dead track"
I have custom screens for UR3.0 for up to 6 lanes, designed to look like Trakmate or Laptimer 2000, so anyone is welcome to a copy, but each file pair (header and main pane) is about 550Kb, so quite big emails.
This thread has my basic tutorial on screen pane development, and some examples, including the 6 laner I developed for our amigo Chenglaw
http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?sho...racer+3\.0
I also have the complete help files, unbundled, and mostly re-written in more precise english.
These updated files SHOULD be contained in the latest version of the download from the UR3.0 site, but I haven't had time to check recently.
#16
Posted 28 July 2009 - 10:43 PM
Yngwie, on Jul 28 2009, 07:20 PM, said:
Basically, like most things that you've done at least once, it's pretty easy. I'm not up with electronics at all but I managed to work it out. Pretty much you wire the relay to take an assigned pin on the parallel port to activate the relay. You'll need to give the input side of the relay a negative pin from the computer too.
On the output side you split one wire of the power supply to the track and feed this cut wire to the two output pins on the relay.
Chas - I think it is possible to "blow" pins on the computer but everything went ok for me. Maybe one of the electronics gurus could tell us what to be careful of.
The relays together with fuel stops makes the racing a whole lot more fun.
#17
Posted 28 July 2009 - 11:00 PM
How do you manage the pit stops for fuel? do you have a low fuel light for each lane or just the guage in the race pane? Thanks
PS i hoping to have the sensors in the pit lane when i build the big track but till then can i just have refueling with the one set of sensors?
#18
Posted 29 July 2009 - 08:46 PM
Badbilly, on Jul 28 2009, 11:00 PM, said:
How do you manage the pit stops for fuel? do you have a low fuel light for each lane or just the guage in the race pane? Thanks
PS i hoping to have the sensors in the pit lane when i build the big track but till then can i just have refueling with the one set of sensors?
Ok. I've found the Jaycar part number and I've got batteries in the camera. The code is S4420 - they cost $19.95 each earlier this year. You will need one per lane so that UR30 can cut the power (via the relay) if your car runs out of fuel. The relay will also cut the power to the car that triggers a false start (you can adjust the length of time the power is cut in UR30).
For fuel management I just use the race pane - I wasn't happy with the visibilty of the fuel gauges on the standard race panes so I edited one to suit my needs. Editing race panes is pretty easy too - if not a bit scary at first!
Not sure if I'm following you correctly about the sensors in the pit lane - I've just selected a spot on my track to have the refuelling area and built in some infra red receivers (part no ZD1950
#19
Posted 31 July 2009 - 08:38 AM
I have the sensors right on the start finish line and the cars start just in front of the sensors. Trackmate has an option that allows the cars to start behind or in front of the sensors.
If you want to use a power relay to cut power and start the next heat where they have stopped (in the next lane of course!) you will have to do it this way. If you want to start each heat from the start finish line it doesn't matter.
However it is kinda unfair to not have part laps accounted for as you end up with dead heats all the time when somebody could well have been almost 4 laps ahead. (on a 4 lane track)
#20
Posted 31 July 2009 - 09:33 AM
Are the thicker ones on left to controllers and the thin ones on right to track sensors or what.
Can see the computer lead easy enough but wires hard to follow for relays etc. Are you perhaps able to give a simple explanation?
Also what pins did you use for computer?
In meantime will continue to study photo and try to work out myself.
Regards
Chas Le Breton
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