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hoffy

Auslot Proxy?

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nearly 24hrs and I haven't posted anything!!!!

 

Anyho, The minimum dimensions. How does for bodies 100mmx55mm sound?

For tyres minimum OD=18.5mm. Minimum width=9mm. Does that sound fine?

 

OK, with these things in place, I reakon I could draft up some rules. I'll see how I go tonight and let you know

 

Hoffy


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I was actually thinking aligning to the current improved production rules (or club cars, or group 2E as it used to be called), but anything is possible.

 

Does anyone have any idea on what body they would like to use? (given the broad rules of any sedan between a Mini and a Falcon)

hoffy, I have a spare Scalextric Opel body I would probably be keen to use.

 

Cheers Manic :)

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Hoffy: Check the min tyre diameter,I just did our Scalex rules and some of the cars are having trouble meeting the 18.5mm that I set ,once sanded Ninco and pro slot tyres are only just managing to be 18.5. Maybe someone else could also measure some tyres.

 

Phil


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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OK, I have been thinking about motors.

 

We have a choice. We could exclusively use Ninco NC2's. They are hard to pull apart, are reliable. The big problem, if we are to include a stock chassis category, how hard would they be to mount..... Which leads me to my next question. Anyone got any idea on what thread the screw holes on the end of these motors are?

 

We could use any 'S' can motor. If we limit the ohmage of the controler to say 45, this should eliminate any hotties.

 

Or finally, we could combine both. Ninco NC2's, any S can, but must be usable with a 45 ohm controller??


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OK then :lol:

 

I was going to originally say 25ohm (thats what I use and have always used), but, as some of our scalextric cousins said they find 45 the way to go with non magnetic racing, I thought I'd specify that instead. I also thought that this would make using hotter types even more harder.

 

Would you suggest that 25 is sufficient?

 

(to be honest, I was sitting here thinking, geez, I'm gonna have to go and buy 4 45ohm resistors when they come and race at my home town. This might be the answer to the question!!)


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The use of higher ohm controllers does not stop people using higher powered motors it just makes the car harder to drive for the guys racing them. I know the first marconi race only allowed 45 ohm controllers but after that they changed. We use 15 to 25 on all types of motors. Some guys manage to drive Fox's witha 25 and other use a 15 for all motors. I know this is no help we have been faced with this for years and have not found an answer.

 

Although I have been looking at end bell drive motors with the Knurled motor shaft and so far it seems that they are only available in specs up to 23,000 ( Oz Race).

Maybe some one else has some info on these. Only problem is that they are harded to fit in some chassis because of the end bell drive.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The reason I stated the s can type motor (with a knurled shaft - thats good) is like most 1/32 slotters, you generally have a few lying around.

 

I can see your point that mounting these can be harder, but there are always means and ways around this.

 

OK, this being the case, you could allow s cans (knurled shaft as above) and to even this out, allow Ninco up to nc3. At least the Ninco can be screw mounted, as well as being able to buy motor mounts for these. Would you also allow the slot-it boxer as well (NOT the v12!!!)?

 

Obviously Honesty has to play a part. This is meant to be fun, not win at all costs.

 

Keep this in mind, that the car has to be drivable by others.

 

Now in regards to Chassis. I think the way I am thinking is we go with the Scratch built.

 

But as there has been plenty of interest in a pre built chassis, I think we will go with this, but as a separate class. I have been sussing out what is available in adjustable wheelbase chassis. There are plenty of EDM/lazer cut chassis, but there are also one or too plastic ones available, locally. This includes the Slot-it HRS chassis and the Pendle chassis (I have been told that these are available locally as well. Just waiting on a return email)

 

Just some more points to ponder


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3 days and I haven't posted!!!!

 

anyhow, I have been drafting up some regs and I will post them when I am ready.

 

Tracks is going to be an issue. Is there anyone from the Artin clan willing to let these race on there track??

 

And to keep the interest for those who don't want to build there own chassis, I may have found some one who could supply the pendle chassis locally. Again, I will keep you posted.

 

Cheers

hoffy


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Hi Guy's,

 

Hoffy, please excuse my late arrival to your post.

Great Idea, put me on your Proxy list too.

I've got a few Airfix and other resin slot car bodies that are just itchin to be raced.

Personally the Pendle PC32 chassis is my choice cos' my knowledge in good chassis building is very limited.

If you do plan on purchasing the PC32 chassis let me know the cost for 5 and I'll get the payment to you ASAP.

 

Regards

NimROD

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Hi guys,

 

I have finally come up with a set of rules. Please have a read and tell me if you think it will work (as intended, for predominantly beginner scratch builders).

 

2005 AUSLOT PROXY CHAMPIONSHIP

1.1 INTENT

The intent of the 2005 Auslot Proxy Championship is to promote and encourage scratch building of 1/32 slot cars, at a beginner level.

1.2 DISCLAIMER

As with all Proxy events, there is a high chance that the vehicle that you send away to race may not come back in the same condition as when it left. With the reliability of modern Postal services, there is a chance that your vehicle may not make it back at all.

 

If you intend to enter a vehicle, please take this into consideration. If you don’t want your car raced and crashed by others, this may not be for you!!

1.3 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

1.3.1 BODIES

· Bodies are to be a near 1/32 replica of any sedan produced after 1965. The original 1:1 car must have been able to accommodate a minimum of 1 driver and 3 adult passengers.

· Race variants of the original 1:1 car are permitted, except for NASCAR bodies, which replicate bodies produced after <insert year here>

· Bodies must be of “hard†construction. This includes injection moulded plastic, Resin and or fibreglass.

· Bodies made of Lexan, PET or any form of soft clear material are not permitted, except for replacement windows and or windscreens.

· Resin bodies, cast from any Soft bodies (as described above) are permitted. Please note, a nominal thickness of 1mm will be required.

· Maximum width of the body shall not exceed 60mm, excluding side mirrors. Minimum width shall be greater then 50mm, excluding side mirrors.

· Maximum length of the body shall not exceed 160mm. Minimum Length shall be greater then 100mm.

· Flared guards are permitted, if the original 1/32 replica was made in this way. Any additional flaring is not allowed.

· Wings and or spoilers are permitted, as long as they look within scale of the rest of the car. They must also fall within the maximum and minimum body dimension specifications.

· All windows must be transparent. If the original 1/32 did not have transparent windows, these must be replaced with windows made of any transparent material. The front windscreen and back window must be in place.

 

1.3.2 CHASSIS

There will be 2 categories of chassis. Class A, which must be a scratch built chassis. Class B, which must be a stock “controlled†chassis.

1.3.2.1 CHASSIS CLASS A

· The chassis must be a scratch built chassis of a flat pan nature. This means that the chassis must be predominantly a flat pan, to which ancillary components are to be attached. The pan can consist of more then one section.

· The chassis must be of an inline motor configuration.

· The motor must be mounted securely.

· Any of the specified motors under section <<update this later>> are allowed for this chassis.

· Hinged chassis are not permitted.

· Torsion bars will be permitted. A maximum of 2 torsion bars per chassis is specified.

· Chassis material can be of anything that is readily available to the home handy person. This can include brass, aluminium, steel, wood, Pcboard, etc. The material must be of a NON MAGNETIC nature!!!

· EDM/Laser cut chassis are not permitted. Billet machined chassis are not permitted, except for the use of commercially available motor/axel carriers.

· The construction of the chassis must be able to be performed at home by the average handy person/hobbyist.

 

1.3.2.2 CHASSIS CLASS B

· The only permitted chassis is the <<tba>> chassis. This chassis has an adjustable wheel base, ideal for beginner scratch builders.

· The chassis is available from <<tba>>

· The only modifications to the chassis permitted are to facilitate the mounting of the body.

· Additional weight may be added.

· Only the ‘s’ can motor configuration is to be used on this chassis.

1.3.3 RUNNING GEAR

· Axle OD shall not exceed 3.175mm (1/8â€Â)

· Ball bearings are not permitted

· Any crown wheel/gearing is permitted.

1.3.4 MOTORS

· The following motors are allowed

o Any ‘s’ Can configuration motor, with a knurled drive shaft.

o Ninco NC2 motor

o Ninco NC3 motor

· No modification is permitted to the motor, except for the following:

o Mounting of the drive pinion

o Attachment of pick up wiring

o Removal of Anti electrical interference components.

1.3.5 WHEELS AND TYRES

· It is preferred that you use Plastic Ready to RaceWheels, but Aluminium/steel/plastic machined wheels will be allowed

· If machined wheels are used, they must have a suitable centre insert, so the wheel has the appearance of a true 1:1 wheel.

· Tyres are to be commercially available rubber. This includes tyres produced by Ninco, Scalextric, Fly, etc.

· Silicon tyres are not permitted

· Foam tyres are not permitted.

· Homemade tyres are not permitted.

· The maximum tyre dimension must not exceed OD of 20.5 mm X 11.5 mm wide, when wheel mounted

· The minimum tyre dimension shall be greater then OD of 18mm X 9mm wide, when wheel mounted

1.3.6 GUIDE FLAG

· Only 1 guide flag is to be attached at any one time.

· Any guide flag is permitted, but must be able to be used on any commercially available 1/32 scale plastic track. The guide flag may be cut down to suit, if required.

1.3.7 GENERAL

· No Magnets will be allowed, except for the magnets in the motor

· When sitting on the track, all 4 wheels must make contact with the track surface

· There must be a minimum of 3mm track clearance, with exception to:

o The guide flag/pickup braid

o Tyres

o Crown wheel


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1.2 DISCLAIMER

With the reliability of modern Postal services, there is a chance that your vehicle may not make it back at all!

lolol, too true! :D

 

Rules look pretty comprehensive hoffy, this should be a great event. Great news that you have found a local supplier for the pendle chassis, count me in for one for sure, depending on the price I might go 2 as I have arranged 2 bodies that would be perfect!

 

If there is enough interest in the pendle chassis we might be able to place an order as a group and get a decent price reduction....? :)

 

lOgsQp.jpg

 

I'm really looking forward to building the Revell, should be a sweet car (thanks NimROD).

 

Cheers Manic :D

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OK guys,

 

The pendle Chassis is available from Jim at Armchair racer. RRP is $19. I am not exactly sure what is included for this price, but I think its just the chassis.

 

The other option is the Slot-it HRS chassis. This one comes in at $34 (I think.....I thats what Jim said. I dont have access to my home email) but includes the slot-it bearings and guide flag.

 

I will leave it up to the guys who are keen to use the pre built chassis to decide which way they want to go.....


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OK, I understand.

 

I will have a look this evening and ammend the details.

 

Where did I get 3mm from???? I can't remember.


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so guys, are you happy with the rules?

 

Are there still people interested?

 

And of you people who want to try with a pre-built chassis, which way are you happy to go with?

 

By the way, I attempted to build my first ever scratch built chassis over the weekend. All I can say, its not pretty and I have learnt a few lessons. I will post some piccys tonight in the scratchbuilt/re-paints section.


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I think you have done well on the rules but 2mm ground clearance would be good. This is generally the norm at most races I have attended.

 

A question on the tyre wear. The grippier tyres from maost manufacturers wear quickly. This will reduce the grouynd clearance. Depending on the amount of races the cars attend new tyres may need to be supplied of the same as the car was supplied.

 

Do you think it fair that the people racing the car supply new tyres as this will happen for most of the venues anyway.

 

I have a Slotit HRS chassis so if I do supply a car that chassis would be used.

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I don't believe that either of those bodies will fit the rules!

 

Phil

No, you are right there Phil, sorry I got a little carried away. I will have to go with the spare Opel body I have, without a doubt a sedan shell.

 

Cheers Manic :lol:

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Hi Guy's,

 

I'm in for sure.

Hoffy if your organising the PC32 Chassis, I'll take 5 please.

PM me your details and I'll forward the money ASAP.

 

Regards

NimROD

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I'm in.

I'd prefer to build a chassis if we can get some tips. Metal is 1st preference but maybe a popsicle chassis (thinks "mmmm icecream :lol: " ) just to get any experience with proxy racing.

 

Otherwise lack of scratchbuilding experience plus work-related travel will see Circuit Maison Rouge send an RTR chassis-based car.


There are 10 types of people in the world. Those who understand binary and those who don't

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I will do a car too.

 

Maybe we should set some race dates and the like to get the interest going.

 

I am sure our group would run a race at the Colyton track. Four lanes of Ninco track with a nice long straight.

 

Hoffy what do you think?

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Thanks for your replys.

 

Its just been EOM for my work(end of month, I work in the finance industry) so my work has been pretty hectic since monday, so this has taken a back burner.

 

Now, I have been thinking about the ground clearance. 2mm is probably more suitable, so I will change the rules to suit that.

 

In regards to tyres. Vinno, I personally cant see tyres wearing that quickly(remember, no silicon), but hey, I have only used Ninco, Fly and Scalextric rubber (Ninco's seem to work best on Ferrador. Scalextric more so on black board paint). What do others think. Would additional tyres need to be supplied?

 

And finally the old pre-built chassis question. Slot-it are popular. Pendles are cheap. Do we allow both? Remember, you can kit it up with basically any quality running gear, within the rules (i.e, no ball/roller bearings). I would nearly say why not. That means if you have a HKS at home, use it. If you want to buy a Pendle, use it. Let me know what those who will do this prefer.

 

At some stage I will start setting up some stuff on my personal web space (My Webpage) for entries and the like.

 

And because it will hopefully be a first time effort for most of us, I think it would be a good idea to leave a decent amount of lead in time. At least a few months.

 

Cheers

Hoffy


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