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hoffy

Auslot Proxy?

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hmmmm, a busy day at work, but somehow I still got a chance to think more about a proxy.

 

I like the idea of a off the shelf chassis and the Pendle chassis sounds a hellova lot cheaper then say a slot-it type chassis ($32 at plattos, minus axles, crown wheel, wheels, tyres, motor).

 

But I still like the idea of scratch building (kinda my suggestion in the first place, but that doesn't make me right). Would it be a bad idea to include both? Would one have a distinct advantage over the other? If thats the case, would there be enought people to include a class for both? Does it really matter, being a first time effort?

 

So far we have at least 7 interested parties in a proxy of some sort. I know there would be others from my club who would possibly also give it a shot. I think there is promise, even if we only get 4 or 5 entries.


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hoffy, I could vouch for at least one other entrant (provide it doesn't get too expensive) and possible a second, (will talk to him over the weekend).

 

They have around the same experience with scratch-building as me, (which is to say 'None!') - So they would be interested in the pre built chassis too.

 

Cheers Manic :D

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Count me in. I have some brass wire that's looking for a suitable motor to become a chassis as well as resin and plastic bodies in various states of completion. Scratch-building expertise matches Manic's but as Marika says, "I no mind", the solder blobs will look and feel like racing lead weights. :)


There are 10 types of people in the world. Those who understand binary and those who don't

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I haven't built a car since I was about 15 and have never built a chassis in my life. As for tuning - that's been down to the luck of the draw as to where I bog the body up to make ridiculous flares!

 

I like the sound of this game!! :P

 

Never having built a chassis I'd be for the idea of buying the pendle one.. but will be quite happy to have a bash at building one - there's a little Colin Chapman in everyone!

 

I like the idea of using the NC2 if it's an easy pretty unfiddlable motor 'cause I don't have the cash or the patience to play with magnets & engine winds & stuff.. and lost my book on how to do it somewhere!

 

I think we should definately have a concourse of some sort (my car will come dead last having seen the state of what are laughably called "my modelling skills" at the moment - boy I need some practice) but I think that it should be a bit of a laugh given they're about to be raced & busted up! :D

 

..thinking further on building the chassis - hope that NC2's a narrow motor - it'll be fun trying to figure out how to build a "ground effect" sedan..

 

Saying a "Saloon" is that any four door we can get? The only sedan I have to hand is an Airfix VW - and that's a 2 door too thinking on it! :)

 

Waiting for the "Official" rules with interest now..


Captain's log: We are enroute to some planet whose name I cannot pronounce to do something really complicated that I don't understand.

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While the chassis is great for conversions it is not intended as a racing chassis.

 

Here is a link to a review of the Pendle Chassis.

 

Pendle Chassis

 

Here is a pic from the review.

pendlechassiswhatyouget.jpg

 

Phil

Excellent!!

 

It looks pretty small, when are we doing this? Can't wait to start putting it together and testing, (if all goes ahead).

 

Cheers Manic :)

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hoffy, if going brass means I have to make my own chassis from scratch, then I would prefer the pre-made plastic (for reason already stated).

 

But if the brass is already in the form of a chassis, (to some extent) then I would prefer to go the brass option.

 

Cheers Manic :)

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Hoffy: If this styles are allowed then I will probably enter two cars,if I only have to change motors and tyres. Several other guys down here have similar cars and may be interested.

 

calibra.jpg

 

nascar.jpg

 

alfa%20155.jpg

 

Parma Womps and inter 1/32 make good starting points for those who are virgins at scratchbuilding.

 

I have pics od several modified Parma cars used in a Proxy race about 5 years ago.I will hunt them up along with some drawings of chassis.

 

Phil


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

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Ok, clarification time.

 

The way I was leaning was either

a)scratchbuilt, be it brass, PCB, aluminium, wood

or

b )a supplied control plastic chassis.

 

Personally, I think we have enough numbers to cater for both, i.e, have an open chassis category (I did intend to limit the complexity of these tho, i.e, a flat pan, no hinged or tortional parts. This really is intended for the beginner) and have a control chassis category, where the only changes would be to wheelbase and track (within the limitations of the chassis and the body, of cause)and the addition of weight, to a maximum limit.

 

For both categories, other components, such as tyres, bearings, gearing, motors are too be specified.

 

I will add some more thoughts later. Gotta go make dinner for a demanding 2 year old..... :angry:


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OK, lets get off of chassis for a while.

 

Bodies. This hopefully wont be so difficult.

My thoughts would be any 1/32 (or so called 1/32!! WE all know how some manufacurors treat scale's. As long as its within reason) hard body sedan.

 

It can be a model of a race going version, or it could be a production car version, but as long as the original 1:1 mass produced car could accomadate 4 or more adults(whether it be 2 or 4 door). I was also thinking, the period from 1965 to present? Is that too broad? Then at least, if someone so desires, you could use the Hornby mustang/Camaro.

For example, a Celica would be fine. A mini would be fine. A Commodoore/falcon would be fine. A porsche (of just about any description) would NOT be eligble. Is that clear enough, or would I/we need to be more specific? (I personally would like to outlaw the use of NASCARS. What do people think of this?)

 

I was thinking of a maximum width of 60mm(not including mirrors) and a maximum lenght of 160mm.

 

If some one can measure a Mini for me, this could be the basis of the Minimum dimesions, including height

 

Thickness of material should be 1mm nominal. Clear PET/polycarb bodies will not be eliglbe. Resin and or Fibreglass bodies will be elible

 

Wheels/tyres must not extend beyond the maximum body width . Flag must not be visible when looking from directly above.

 

Interiors

Now, this depends if people are planning to butcher the scaley Falcs and Kingswoods or not, but my thoughts were a full length inerior, with driver. It could be as a production car (ie, full production interior) or it could be as a race car (Ie, stripped out). AS long as there is one. (vacumm formed ones that are not full depth are OK)

If there are those who wish to use the Falc or Kings.... whoops, Commodoore, we could revist this. I do understand that there would be substantial work to cut out the windows, and manufacture new windows, but I suppose this is all part of the fun!!

All Windows must be clear. If windows need to be replaced, PET and Lexan can be used (would that be OK??)

 

Tyres and wheels

Maximum width(when mounted)=11.5mm, from side wall to side wall

maximum OD of tyre=20.5mm

minimum width=? (definately NO 'O' rings)

Minimu OD=? (again, can some one measure the tyres on a Standard Mini. This could be a good basis)

Any commercially availble rubber or silicon base (I dont know if we should allow silicon, as I have never used them. Is there a distinct advantage?)tyre is eliglbe (ie, those produced by Scalextric, Ninco, Indy Grips(if decided that silicon is OK), etc)

Home made tyres will NOT be elibible (remember folks, this is designed for beginners)

Foam tyres will NOT be eligible.

The use of plastic wheels is encouraged over the use of aluminum/steel wheels.

If non plastic wheels are used, some form of insert must also be used.

 

Guide Flag

All depends on what tracks we run on, but I would say it should be free. The flag can be modified to suit the tracks we decide to run on. AS a general rule, as long as it can run on Scalextric (what 1/32 track has the shallowest slot?)classic track, with all 4 wheels on the surface and it can negotiate the inside lane of an R1 corner.

Of cause, only 1 flag per vehicle (duhhh)

 

liveries

Each vehicle should have a number on each side and on the roof. Apart from that, a livery is not necessary, but is encouraged. Liveries can be fantasy or real life.

 

running gear

Ball bearings will NOT be permitted.

Maximum OD of axles shall not exceed 3.175mm (1/8")

Motor is to be any commercial 1/32 motor, not exceeding 20000rpm. Motor is NOT to be modified, except for the removal of the funny little thingy off the top (u know, the thing that doesn't effect the missus watching Neigbours)and the removal/attachment of pickup wiring

gearing is to be free(?)

 

General

No magnets, except for the ones found in the motor, will be permitted

Motor shall not be mouned below the under surface of the chassis (it can be mounted flush)

Car is to be of an 'inline' configuration.

Minimum ground clearances shall be=?

 

And if you got this far..... thats about it for now!!! Once the rules are settled, they will be a lot neater and concise then above~

 

Of cause, start picking the above to bits. I want feedback!!


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Hoffy: Tyres if you allow silicon then you will not be able to tell if they are purchased or home made. Silicons are alot better on plastic track. Motors: 20,000 rpm ! Are you going to test them if not then you would be better off using some other type of limit. It is almost impossible to check what arm is in what can or if the can has been open. The big Ninco's and Fox's etc with the end bell inside is a lot easier to see if it has been opened.

 

Interiors should be 3 dimensional ,full depth will not allow inline motors. Tyre dimensions: don't worry about max. dia just miniums,probably about 18.5 mm much smaller and the cars look crap. Fronts should be a bit smaller say 18mm but should be at least 8mm wide. Inserts: for sure.

 

Bodies you could just set a minium finished weight including interior hard to measure thickness.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks. That is quite helpful

 

OK, amend that to hard bodies, with no thickness specified.

 

The bodies I was thinking basically would cover from as small as a Mini, up to as large as a Commodoore/Falcon. I dont have a problem with getting the dimensions of the falcs and commodes, but I dont have any mini's.

 

So if anyone has got a Scaley Mini or similar, would they be able to do me a favour and measure the width, length and height of the car. Can you also measure the ground clearance. And finally, please measure the OD of the tyres.

 

Tyres - the easiest option would be to forget the silicons.

 

Motors - My intention, hence the comment about 20000RPM max (at what voltage?) was to limit the motors to either NC1, NC2 the scaley 18000RPM mabarchi, Ozrace 18000 rpm motors and anything smaller/slower.

This now brings up the question of honesty. Measuring the output of these motors is not exactly easy. What are other peoples opinions. Do we leave motors a bit open, or do we specify, say, the NC2 and be done with it?

 

interiors - agreed, as long as there is a 3d driver and steering wheel, that should be fine. Vac formed interiors are easy to get. If you cannot get one, send me a PM and I can easily obtain them (from Sunset bodies)


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OK, this is taking way to much of my awake thoughts (as a matter of fact, I had dreams about this last night........ :angry: ......need help.....)

 

anyho, the next point is tracks.

 

I should be able to organise running on at least 1 track in Adelaide, being either routed MDF painted with ferrador or Routed MDF painted with blackboard paint, or even possibly both (I haven't asked yet.....the owners might say no :angry: )

 

Anyhow, what would be cool and I think managble for a first off proxy, would be 3 different locations. It would also be cool if we could possibly get a run on a 4 lane Plastic track.

 

So would there be anyone interested in putting there hands up??


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I think you are doing well with the rules.

 

On tyres silicon only works on smooth tracks like Sport and Artin so if someone builds a car with them it will suffer on most tracks.

 

Tracks in Sydney from this forum are Ninco, Artin and Scalextric as far as I know so setting up for all three will be interesting. There will be some wood tracks at some stage too.

 

Motors.

 

Ninco rates it's motors at 14.8 volts so a NC2 rated at 18000 rpm at 14.8 volts does not rev as high as a Scalextric rated at 18000 rpm at twelve volts. Gearing can even this up. Maybe make gearing free as setting up for all tracks will take a bit of thought. A ninco F1 rear end could be used to gear a slower revving engine up like an NC2 motor. This will also reduce braking performance. Top speed won't help on most tracks but a compromise is needed.

 

Keep it up Hoffy.

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Depending on final dates I am sure we could manage at least one round down here on a routed track. We have four in regular use and two others available some times,all are routed and finished with satin paint. Rubber tyres work reasonably well, most of our class's use rubber.

 

To make this race very different you could limit the bodies to any sedan that has competed in an Australian Touring car championship or V8 championship,that would make it an AUSslot race! Just a thought.

 

Phil.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I was actually thinking aligning to the current improved production rules (or club cars, or group 2E as it used to be called), but anything is possible.

 

Does anyone have any idea on what body they would like to use? (given the broad rules of any sedan between a Mini and a Falcon)


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The only "sedan" body I have right now is an airfix dack-dack - erm VM Beetle. Guess whose proxy car is going to be dressed as a famous movie star?!! :angry:


Captain's log: We are enroute to some planet whose name I cannot pronounce to do something really complicated that I don't understand.

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