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hoffy

Auslot Proxy?

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OK, knowing my usual attemps at any project, there will be lots of hot air, but no outcome, but hey I'm bored, so here goes.

 

Would there be any interest in doing a Proxy race?

 

I have been following the organisation and build up to the small car proxy on slot forum (small car proxy) and kinda thought that this would be cool.

 

The way I was thinking was keeping it simple, I.E, make it for 1/32 (sedans??)scaled cars (but specify a minimum/maximum track/height/wheelbase, etc, so we don't have to stick too closely to true scale, but people dont go over board), specify a motor, tyres, etc.

 

I would even go as far as suggesting that we don't have concours either. The idea is behind getting people building scratchies, but not having to spend a small mint on detailing the cars.

 

What do people think? Any good ideas?


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hoffy: Great idea,can I help in any way.

 

HMCC are again running a proxy race this year hear is a link to our rules if you would like to have a look.

 

2005 rules

 

 

We have been conducting proxy races for the last 5 years and these rules have evolved over that time.Feel free to use any parts of interest. I also still have rules from previous years and if you follow the liks from :

 

H.M.C.C site

 

You will find info from past races. If you allow scratch builts you should be able to count on several entries from down here. To date we have only had one entrant from your side of bass Straight enter any of our races!

 

The Small proxy race was directed at being a cheap proxy race in the belief that our cars cost a fortune to build but I usually manage to build each car for less than the cost of a Fly car.

 

Phil


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

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Sounds a really great idea. Proxy racing is really good fun. I'm not really sure what a Sedan is...V8 Supercars? or any saloon type car?..

 

Hope you will accept entries from outside of Australia.

 

Phil, So it's been decided that it will be Can-Am this year?....Sounds a good choice, although at first reading I don't pretend to understand the wheel rule, but I'm sure that will come in time!. :) . Any idea of the possible date of the first race?

 

Regards

 

Alan

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Alan: the wheel/track rule does sound compicated ( at least I thouht so when I first read it) but it is not I will add a simplified note to the rules soon. Have you got last years car back? I have not heard from Graham for some time, so Chris,Dave,Russell and I have thrashed out these draft rules.

No idea of dates at this time but probably similat timetable to last year.

 

I don't know what sort of saloon cars hoffy had in mind but over here saloon usually means any "sedan" type car.

 

Phil


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

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It sounds like a good idea and something we want to get involved with. Lets talk about it first so we can get an idea which way you all want to go with it.

 

I may not contribute at present as my plate is overflowing but once I am further along I will see how I go.

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OK, this is the way I was thinking.

 

Cars are to be AROUND 1/32. I dont think we really need to go clutching at straws with this. As long as they look reasonable, thats fine, but definately, no blobs.

 

Bodies. I am at two minds with this one. Initially I thought, hard bodies only, but what if someone finds a half decent clear body and wants to run it? Will this give them an unfair advantage? Does it really matter? I think this is one for discussion. As touring cars are the race vehicles of choice and have been for the last 45 years, Sedans (or Saloons) would be the style of choice. As long as they are no bigger then say the Scaley Falcons and Kingswood....um, err, Comodoors and say no smaller then, hmm, I was going to say minis, but is that getting too small?

 

Motors. Anything that cannot run on a Wall Wart should not be allowed. That should still leave us with plenty of choice, or so we go down the road as to specify what motor to use?

 

Chassis material.... hmmm, dare I say that this should be free? Lets face facts, most scratch builders use brass. Brass is cheap, but then again is so is many plastics. Paddle Pop sticks are even cheaper!! As long as people dont go over the top and build a chassis out of carbon fibre, that has been baked in an autoclav!!!

 

Running gear. My initial thoughts was to stick with RTR 1/32 running gear (ie, 3/32 axles), but does it cost that much more to use 1/24 running gear? The same with guide flags, but here it should be specified that if the flag cannot be used on plastic track and a Scaley R1 inside turn, its not legal??

 

Well, thats a start and its only what I have thought. Im sure there will be plenty of others with some input (or maybe not.... <_< ). There are plenty of other points that would need to be raised (IE, what track types to run on, tyres and wheels, POSTAGE??) but hey, lets not rush into it :D

 

Ohhh, by the way, my total scratch building experience is NIL!! So if I sound like I am dribbling ...., please let me know. (and that begs the question, why am I suggesting this.... Because it sounds like fun!!!)


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Just a thought on the motors. If you want to limit them why not specify say Ninco, Scalextric, SCX, fly and Slotit. Where we race we only allow parts from a list of eligible manufacturers. This will keep out the hotties.

 

If the cars are to race on different tracks the allround performer will be the one to shine.

 

I like the idea about the guides running on R1 curves but guide depth may be a problem with Scalextric classic and SCX tracks as Ninco and others bottom out on these. Might leave this point to guys like Phil who have run proxy's before. It would be good to see the cars race at as many of the available tracks on this forum as possible. May end up with some damage but thats racing.

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Morning all

 

I've been intending to enter a proxy since the tassie tiger super touring races of three or four years ago but cant seem to find a round tuit to get started. <_<

 

Anyway ,If Hoffy's proxy race is intended to encourage new people to start scratch building cars, keep the build process relativly simple

 

here's a few of my thoughts on the matter.

 

Chassis;

One piece chassis plate with no flex or hinged parts

All bracing and components ie; motor mounts and pillar blocks to be contiguous ( seamless join ) with the chassis plate.

 

 

Motors;

Any motor from a nominated list

 

Power supply;

power supply at the tracks be limited to a specified level ( the proxy regulars

would have a better idea of an ideal level)

Nominate a spec ohnage for hand controllers to limit high output motors.

 

Bodies;

any recognisable sedan (saloon) body from any material but with a minimum thickness.

 

Be carefull with the regulations, keep them simple but make sure you are very clear on what is required.

 

My half a dinaris worth.

Cheers LB

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Hoffy: You must first decide what tracks you are to race on. Routed,Scalex,etc. That will determine the type of guide. and also tyres. Scalex are very shallow guides!

 

magnets of no magnets??

 

Lenny: the idea of a one piece seemless chassis is actually harder to build as the bending HAS to be spot on,you cannot simply move the bearing block to align the axles correctly.

 

Our first proxy race was limited to inline and a reasonable simple chassis,no pans etc.

 

Here are acouple of pics of Russell Sheldons winning car.

 

rsbot.jpg

 

rschbig.jpg

 

Motors : depends on tyre and tracks decided on. Fox would have to be the maximun but to run them you really need spongies of at least 12mm wide.

 

Bodies: Even thought we are allowing styrene vac fprms this year I believe that they do have a big advantage,I would stick to resins and plastic.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Phil

Wasn't thinking of one piece chassis as such rather a single plate that pillow blocks, motor brackets and guide tongues be soldered to. Just a very basic chassis that would be very easy to learn the basic soldering techniques on.

Somethin akin to the early mid western american style of chassis. an example would be something like the plate chassis that Al Penrose made for a Lotus 19 body he had or Chris Briggs' lead sled design.

 

Just an idea of a middle aged slotty who is not that great at chassis building <_<

 

Cheers LB

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Lenny: Now I know! Similar to Russell's then. His car handles very well. It is only about half a second behind in lap times from last years cars and is a lot simpler to build. I think I still have the drawings for that chassis and I have the article Russell did about his earlier cars if anyone is interested.

 

We limited the motors in proxy one to any " s" type motor as well,this seemed to work well.


Phil

 

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Tassie Resins

 

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I think I still have the drawings for that chassis and I have the article Russell did about his earlier cars if anyone is interested.

 

Yes, please Phil !!!!

 

I'm interested in scratchbuilding and the easier the better <_<

 

Just my two cents, but why do we have to have scratchbuilt cars for a proxy race?

 

My suggestion would be a non mag, weighted (max and min weight) car (style/genre/type TBA) with a selection of motors to choose from. No silicone tyres.

 

This could be similar to the Auslot race but in a proxy version. And it would be easier for people to enter.

 

Again, just my opinion.

 

Dave


"I spent most of my money on beer, women and slot cars. The rest I just wasted."

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yes, good idea Lenny!

I was actually thinking of building a rattle pan type design, but a one peice pan with all the bits either screwed/glued/soldered/blu tacked on would probably be a better start.

 

Motors definately need to be limited. My intial thought was scaley murbachi (sp?)/ninc nc1 type motors. The issue that I have with them is an 18000rpm motor has no branding on it what so ever. So who knows which motors have been pulled apart and different bits installed (which is always the case)?

 

The tracks..... well, it all depends on whos involved really. It would be good to be able to have at least one Plastic track and one routed track. Then that brings up the point of magnets.... dare I say..... No magnets? Which also brings up tyres. Commercially available rubber (say, ninco or something)?

 

Lets face facts, for this to be what every one wants, it needs to be talked about before rules and regs are set in concrete.

 

Its good to see some responses from seasoned veterans and novices!!


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Hoffy

 

If you want to stick to one motor why not say NC2. They are sealed and it would be easy to tell if one is too quick. All Ninco motors of same model seem to run exactly the same.

 

Also there seem to be a lot of NC2's lying around from Ninco classics and other Ninco's that have been upgraded. Just a thought.

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Hoffy

 

If you want to stick to one motor why not say NC2. They are sealed and it would be easy to tell if one is too quick. All Ninco motors of same model seem to run exactly the same.

 

Also there seem to be a lot of NC2's lying around from Ninco classics and other Ninco's that have been upgraded. Just a thought.

I reckon definitely go with the NC2, they've got have to best manufacturing tolerance as they all just about perform the same.

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Just my two cents, but why do we have to have scratchbuilt cars for a proxy race?

Having never built a car 'from scratch' I would be interested in a non-scratch built catagory if a proxy race comp was to run this year.

 

This doesn't mean I'm not very interested in entering a scratch built, I just don't have the know-how yet.

 

Cheers Manic <_<

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Having never built a car 'from scratch' I would be interested in a non-scratch built catagory if a proxy race comp was to run this year.

 

This doesn't mean I'm not very interested in entering a scratch built, I just don't have the know-how yet.

 

Manic, I'm with you.

 

I'd love to scratchbuild a car but at the moment I'm not quite ready, either.

 

I'd like to tune a car - with weight, a bit of sanding etc etc and do it that way.

I dont care if its SCX rally cars with the stock motor.

 

Just something easy that a few of us novices could be involved in.


"I spent most of my money on beer, women and slot cars. The rest I just wasted."

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OK Guys

 

As this is your first Proxy event, it may be best to keep things as simple as you can.

 

Also not everyone will be happy at the prospect of scratchbuilding or even modifying a chassis.

 

Why not use a standard chassis. I would suggest the new PCS 32 chassis from Pendleslot in the UK. It is fully adjustible for almost any wheelbase and takes any standard Scalex/Slot.it motor.

 

Suggested Rules :-

 

Body :- Any Saloon (Sedan) body from Scalex/SCX/Ninco/Carrera from the period XX to XX (You can agree dates). Interior and driver required. Clear glass.

 

Chassis : - Standard PCS 32 chassis with no alterations

 

Motor :- Standard Scalex motor (as supplied by organiser)

 

Gears/Axle :- Free choice

 

Tyres :- Free Choice, but not foam....You will need to specify things like maximum and minimum overall diameter and width.

 

Guide :- Free choice, but must be capeable of running on all chosen track types.

 

Suggest No Magnet. Lead may be added.

 

This would give all participants an even playing field to start from and should ensure very close racing. I am also assuming you can't get these chassis in Aus at the moment.

 

I can get the chassis and motors for you from Sean at Pendle. Chassis are £6.75 (UKP ) motors are £2(UKP). You will need to convert to AUS $.

 

If you want to do this I am more than happy to purchase these items for you (you can pay organiser and he can pay me) and post them free of charge to to one source in Australia, providing it is in one order.

 

This is just a suggestion, but it is your race and I'm more than happy to go along with your final choice.

 

Regards

 

Alan

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They are some great suggestions, Alan, thanks.

 

I have done the convertions from UKP to Aussie dollars

 

Chassis : $16.90

 

Motor : $5

 

so these are easily affordable.

 

I reckon this type of thing would at least be a halfway compromise between scratchbuilding and stock.

 

Thanks again, Alan.

 

Dave


"I spent most of my money on beer, women and slot cars. The rest I just wasted."

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Alan: The pendle chassis is not readily available here we would have to order from Sean. No problem as I usually order at least once a month from him.

 

While I think the chassis is good I don't think it would be the best handling chassis available. As you know Proxy cars have to be easy to drive and handle well. Have you used one yet? If so how does it compare to Nissan?

 

Phil


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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