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Scalextric Digital - Comments/bugs

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Hi All,

 

Just discovered this forum! I've been reading o/s forums for a while (eg SF, SCI), and have posted a similar message to this on SF, but I'd like to get some info from local users on the scalextric situation.

 

I just received my scalextric digital set (C1140 - the complete set) wednesday (dec 22) when the local shipment arrived (I'm in Melb). I'd like to offer the following comments if I may, and would be interested in those of others:

 

- When it works, it is quite a different experience to analog racing and great fun. However, I never got past using the small track setup from the box. I also bought an extra controller/car package and 3 cars on a small track was a bit absurd. My plan was to make a large 2 lane track with my existing classic track but because of problems listed below I never got to that.

 

- I had "Overload" problems with the lane changes. Frequently, but unpredictably, when changing lanes the "Overload" message would beep on the power base, power would be cut, and the current race aborted. I could not complete a 20 lap race without this happening. My dealer replaced the one lane change piece but that did not solve it. This problem occurred with one car, with two cars, and very often with 3 cars racing together. My set is now back with the dealer over xmas.

 

- You have to be really careful with to smooth braids before replacement after deslotting as inadvertent shorting (again causing the Overload error) is possible. This never seemed to be much of a problem with "analog".

 

- Although the overload errors are frustrating, the real killer bug is that the error aborts the current race. Imagine that on the last lap of a race when you're charging toward the finish line in 1st place and someone else shorts the lane change. Some sort of firmware upgrade in the power base should solve this [i have version 1.2]. There's an unused RJ-45 socket on the power base, but it's not clear what`that is for.

 

- On other forums people have posted with the "Overload" errors and one person reported back from correspondence with Scalextric saying that they recommend two power packs for "optimal performance" even with two cars. Other problems have been reported with the power base and uneven track surface of lane changes (bumps or ditches). Rare quality control errors are a fact of life. Major bugs should not be.

 

- The Porsche Boxters are not much to look at but they are solid enough to take a beating as collisions can be forceful. I don't know whether I'd convert my existing prized cars yet.

 

- The LCD display on the power base is a bit disappointing. I look forward to the "Pro" version with PC connectivity. [And also thanks for all the info on this forum about Sport World]

 

- I hope to get up and running again when my dealer opens on Wednesday. Perhaps with a new power base, perhaps a whole replacement set. I also want to buy a second power pack but so far have not found anyone in Melb stocking that item (C7004). Spares in general seem to be very sparse.

 

That's about it for my inital experience. I'd be interested in hearing whether others here have encountered similar problems. I hope the problems I am having are the exception rather than the rule, as the potential of digital racing seems enormous.

 

Cheers.

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Scalxwag,

 

On the whole, that sounds very dissappointing :) I was going to wait a while and see how the whole 'digital' thing panned out and based on what you have had to say I think that is a good idea.

 

Thanks for the information in your post. It sounds like Scalextric have some serious issues to iron out! :D

 

Cheers Manic :)

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Hi All,

 

Just discovered this forum!  I've been  reading o/s forums for a while (eg SF, SCI), and have posted a similar message to this on SF, but I'd like to get some info from local users on the scalextric situation.

 

I just received my scalextric digital set (C1140 - the complete set) wednesday (dec 22) when the local shipment arrived (I'm in Melb).  I'd like to offer the following comments if I may, and would be interested in those of others:

 

- When it works, it is quite a different experience to analog racing and great fun.  However, I never got past using the small track setup from the box.  I also bought an extra controller/car package and 3 cars on a small track was a bit absurd.  My plan was to make a large 2 lane track with my existing classic track but because of  problems listed below I never got to that.

 

- I had "Overload" problems with the lane changes.  Frequently, but unpredictably, when changing lanes the "Overload" message would beep on the power base, power would be cut, and the current race aborted.  I could not complete a 20 lap race without this happening.  My dealer replaced the one lane change piece but that did not solve it.  This problem occurred with one car, with two cars, and very often with 3 cars racing together.  My set is now back with the dealer over xmas. 

 

- You have to be really careful with to smooth braids before replacement after deslotting as inadvertent shorting (again causing the Overload error) is possible.  This never seemed to be much of a problem with "analog".

 

- Although the overload errors  are frustrating, the real killer bug is that the error aborts the current race.  Imagine that on the last lap of a race when you're charging toward the finish line in 1st place and someone else shorts the lane change.  Some sort of firmware upgrade in the power base should solve this [i have version 1.2].  There's an unused RJ-45 socket on the power base, but it's not clear what`that is for.

 

- On other forums people have posted with the "Overload" errors and one person reported back from correspondence with Scalextric saying that they recommend two power packs for "optimal performance" even with two cars.  Other problems have been reported with the power base and uneven track surface of lane changes (bumps or ditches).  Rare quality control errors are a fact of life.  Major bugs should not be.

 

- The Porsche Boxters are not much to look at but they are solid enough to take a beating as collisions can be forceful.  I don't know whether I'd convert my existing prized cars yet. 

 

- The LCD display on the power base is a bit disappointing.  I look forward to the "Pro" version with PC connectivity.  [And also thanks for all the info on this forum about Sport World]

 

- I hope to get up and running again when my dealer opens on Wednesday.  Perhaps with a new power base, perhaps a whole replacement set.  I also want to buy a second power pack but so far have not found anyone in Melb stocking that item (C7004).  Spares in general seem to be very sparse.

 

That's about it for my inital experience.  I'd be interested in hearing whether others here have encountered similar problems.    I hope the problems I am having are the exception rather than the rule, as the potential of digital racing seems enormous.

 

Cheers.

I also bought the lane change set, along with 3 other lane change pieces and 2 additional Audi/controller set packs. I have integrated these into my existing analog setup, although the switch to digital is now permanent as it's way too much effort to swap out all the lane change sections every time.

 

I did have a fair amount of overloads, in fact it overloaded as soon as the yellow boxter (and then again the same with the silver Audi) was placed on the track - also had a low 'mains' style ac hum. I eventually took the boxter and audi apart, saw nothing, but lubed them up anyway and they have behaved ever since.

 

I have also added a DSE3800 regulated power supply, feeding both the P1 and P2 inputs from the pair of teminals on the PSU. I have not had an overload condition at all since completing this process, and can happily run all 4 cars simultaneously with no degradation.

 

I agree about the braids, and in fact it seemed to me that it was braids not being in the optimum position that were causing the tracks to short - and it is frustrating when it happens just when you think you're about to finish a race.

 

My track layout is now pretty permanent, and is about 17meters long - not large by any stretch, but plenty big enough for racing 4 cars without ever feeling cramped. I also noticed the build quality of the digital pieces were excellent, and it also seemed to me that the regular sport track included in the set was also better finished than previous track components - they actually clicked together really well.

 

It's been a really fun xmas - and I'm sure this is going to get even better as the year progresses and 2005 hits us.

 

cheers - persevere, it's worth it.

 

Mike

ps - there's plenty of places in Sydney with the extra PSU units.

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It seems as though you have solved some of the problems by servicing the cars and using a real power supply Mike.

 

I am sceptical about any of them at present as we are set up to race analog and aren't about to change what we have. The Carrera system we tested was reliable but none of us was prepared to give it too much time to familiarize ourselves with the digital driving experience.

 

It will not help the popularity of digital if there are this many problems as Joe average who buys a set for the kids isn't going to have a 25 amp regulated power supply and the ability to tune a car just to make the system operate.

 

I have some questions regarding the drivability of the Scalex Digital.

 

1 Does it have braking affect or is it like driving a two wire hand control system?

 

2 Are the cars responsive to controller position or are they sluggish to react?

 

I have found these to be so with the Carrrera system.

 

I hope the problems are easy for the manufacturers to sort as it will be interesting to see how Digital is to drive when it is reliable.

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What I have noticed with Sportsworld and the same applies to Digital is the standard power supplies cannot supply enough amps to run multiple cars. That is why after market power supplies become necessary. To be fair I guess the same applies to analog systems as well. The major difference is in analog systems if the cars require more power than the power supply can deliver the cars just slow down and you get the power surge effect when one car deslots.

With digital if too many amps are required you get the "Overload LD" error from the controller station

 

In my opinion both Sportsworld and Digital are designed specifically with magnet racing in mind. The ability for the cars to keep their position straight when corning and especially when changing lanes is important. I guess if the lane change tracks are placed in the middle of straights where non magnet cars have time to straighten out going into a lane changer and have the space to straighten out again after the changer this would help when non magnet racing.

 

I am only testing on a small track so it may be that digital on a much larger track is easier to use when running non magnet cars.

 

In relation to brakes on my sportsworld track the base station can be programmed for 4 different braking modes

1 OFF No braking effect

2 BUTTON Brakes only on the button at tha back of the hand controller

3. DYNAMIC Release the trigger and brakes are applied to the cars . The button on the back of the controller has no effect (See option 2)

4. BOTH Options 2 and 3 both work.

 

 

Charlie

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It seems as though you have solved some of the problems by servicing the cars and using a real power supply Mike.

 

I am sceptical about any of them at present as we are set up to race analog and aren't about to change what we have. The Carrera system we tested was reliable but none of us was prepared to give it too much time to familiarize ourselves with the digital driving experience.

 

It will not help the popularity of digital if there are this many problems as Joe average who buys a set for the kids isn't going to have a 25 amp regulated power supply and the ability to tune a car just to make the system operate.

 

I have some questions regarding the drivability of the Scalex Digital.

 

1  Does it have braking affect or is it like driving a two wire hand control system?

 

2  Are the cars responsive to controller position or are they sluggish to react?

 

I have found these to be so with the Carrrera system.

 

I hope the problems are easy for the manufacturers to sort as it will be interesting to see how Digital is to drive when it is reliable.

Vince,

appreciate it is hard to abandon an anolog track, although as I decided to build a permanent track about 2 months ago, it has been easy for me. I designed it with digital in mind, and have 5 sections of the circuit designed for the LC pieces, each preceeded by the required 1/2 straight.

 

Currently, my only frustration is the lack of the upgrade chips.

 

I can't say I actually did anything to the two cars that had the overload, other than separate the body from the chassis, but agree that many parents will not know to do this.

 

It is also possible that the second Scalextric supply might also make a difference, it is just that I had always planned to buy a dedicated PSU, and the timing made sense, rather than buy another $50 scalextric transformer that would eventually be made redundant.

 

Now to answering your main questions:

 

1. The brakes are excellent, possibly even more pronounced than analog. Their are several options, to suit anybody. The normal dynamic braking we are familiar with now, release the trigger and the brakes cut in. There is also the button on the controller, which gives you instantaneous complete dead stop braking - which I only use to start a race. Hold the brake, and also fully squeeze the trigger, letting go of the brake as soon as the light goes green provides maximum power immediately. You can program each car to use either method, both methods or none. All my cars are set to both.

 

2. The controller provide a pretty responsive drive, although I obviously prefer my Professor Motor controllers, but these are pretty good. Could they be better, yes, but I think I'm probably just being picky about that. They sit nicely in the hand, and the trigger requires a little pressure, so you're not likely to just squeeze it all the way inadvertently.

 

A couple of other observations...

 

The power supply supplied by Scalextric is 12V DC, and rated at 30VA, which means it can draw upon 2.5A maximum current. The DSE PSE I have, provides up to 3A maximum from the speaker input teminals - but it is regulated and obviously cleaner.

The base controller then seems to convert this 12V DC into a grid based 12V AC - which is why non digital cars will not work. The track has a permanent 12V across it, and the lanes obviously share the power, not a dedicated 12V to each lane. That is the main reason the LC pieces need to be removed if you were to switch between analog and digital.

 

I have not tried Carerra, but have tried SCX in addition to owning Scalextric. I prefer the Scalextric solution to SCX, although both will provide endless fun.

 

You'd be amazed how quickly you adapt to digital, picking your passing place based on your speed and that of the car in front - not simply swapping lanes randomly.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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Well the Scalextric certainly sounds like it has potential. Thanks for the comments on the workings Mike and Charlie, you guys have cleared a few areas up for me.

 

I would say from the comments made that Scalextric have been reading the forums as they have addressed areas not addressed by other brands.

 

Please don't make me go digital, I will get kicked out of home.

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Hi All,

 

I thought I'd give an update on my situation with the overload errors. Today my dealer (MIB Global) and I set up my set in his shop and he watched the overload errors occur first hand. Fortunately it occurred on the very first lap with only one car! Over an hour or so, we systematically added and removed lane change curves, added a second power supply, and a new power base. Major thanks to Anthony at MIB for his time, patience and interest in solving this problem.

 

Replacing the power base seemed to solve the problem (fingers crossed), as I have had no further overloads on lane changes in the 3 to 4 hours of pretty solid racing I have done since getting the set back home. Time will tell if this holds out. I should also note that adding a second power supply did remove the problem as well even with the original power base. So I've got one ordered just in case the problem reappears and since I'll go to 4 or more digital cars pretty soon anyway if all stays well.

 

So for now all's well, and I'm hoping for some reliable racing now that I can finally integrate the digital with my existing stock of track. I hope others get their problems sorted out too.

 

Cheers all,

Andrew

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Glad to hear your problem is sorted out. It sounds like you might have had some bad connections with the original powerbase if it worked OK with two power supplies. Can happen with any product but good to see your dealer handled it quickly.

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Hi guys!

 

My mate has brought his conversion set with him while he stays for a few days and we have connected it up to my permanent layout to test.

 

The main problem we are having is with the red Boxter, it just doesn't like the lane changing. Each time it tries to lane change the lane change mechanism just just move probably and it comes to a sudden thud stop. The yellow Boxter works like a charm, no problems at all. We have checked the cars and visually they look no different.

 

Just wondering if anybody else is having a similiar problem?

 

Looks like he might have to take the red Boxter back to the dealer! :(

 

Overall it looks like there is a lot of potential fun to be had but we first need to get the second car sorted out first.

 

Also a little disappointed that Scalextric only give you one lane change and a cross-over in the conversion set instead of 2 lane changes one for each direction.

 

Guess they're trying to make as much money as possible out of digital. :D

 

Anyway have a good new year all!

 

Was :)

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Hi guys!

 

My mate has brought his conversion set with him while he stays for a few days and we have connected it up to my permanent layout to test.

 

The main problem we are having is with the red Boxter, it just doesn't like the lane changing.  Each time it tries to lane change the lane change mechanism just just move probably and it comes to a sudden thud stop.  The yellow Boxter works like a charm, no problems at all.  We have checked the cars and visually they look no different.

 

Just wondering if anybody else is having a similiar problem?

 

Looks like he might have to take the red Boxter back to the dealer!  :(

 

Overall it looks like there is a lot of potential fun to be had but we first need to get the second car sorted out first.

 

Also a little disappointed that Scalextric only give you one lane change and a cross-over in the conversion set instead of 2 lane changes one for each direction.

 

Guess they're trying to make as much money as possible out of digital.  :D

 

Anyway have a good new year all! 

 

Was  :)

Was,

I can only think of 2 things this could be:

1. The sensor on the red boxter isn't sending the signal to the track when requested

2. The lane change switch on your controller isn't working.

 

Try to reprogram the red boxter to use the other controller, and see if the problem persists, that way you should get it down to car or controller.

 

You can test whether the car is triggering the sensor by 'pushing' the car over the sensor in the 1/2 straight before the lane change, while holding the lance change button on the controller down.

 

If it's the car, open it up and just make sure everything looks tidy inside, no bare wires shorting or anything not connected by the sensor board. If you're lucky, just opening it up will solve your problem ;-)

 

I bought the full lane change set, because I knew I'd need at least one more lance change piece, and already have 4 crossover curves that I never use - so didn't want yet another one.

 

Cheers - and i'll keep my fingers crossed for you, it's great fun once you get it going.

 

Mike

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Mike, you said "I have also added a DSE3800 regulated power supply, feeding both the P1 and P2 inputs from the pair of teminals on the PSU."

 

What's a DSE3800 when it's at home?

 

Have you had a go with the thingy and the 6 cars this system is meant to support? I'm planning on a fairly long circuit & will certainly want to be able to run 6 cars. (that's why I got Vlad to get me the F40s) I'm actually hoping Scaley will bring out some R3 changeovers or even better - straight ones as it'll make for a quicker track!

 

The other question regarded the "offs". Are the crashes actually any bigger than you currently get in close running? I know my son & myself can cause a hell of an accident when the inside car loses it on Analog, I don't really see how this would differ to Digital (except there's other cars to pile in the back of you I guess!)

 

cheers,

Eno


Captain's log: We are enroute to some planet whose name I cannot pronounce to do something really complicated that I don't understand.

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Mike, you said "I have also added a DSE3800 regulated power supply, feeding both the P1 and P2 inputs from the pair of teminals on the PSU."

 

What's a DSE3800 when it's at home?

 

Have you had a go with the thingy and the 6 cars this system is meant to support? I'm planning on a fairly long circuit & will certainly want to be able to run 6 cars. (that's why I got Vlad to get me the F40s) I'm actually hoping Scaley will bring out some R3 changeovers or even better - straight ones as it'll make for a quicker track!

 

The other question regarded the "offs". Are the crashes actually any bigger than you currently get in close running? I know my son & myself can cause a hell of an accident when the inside car loses it on Analog, I don't really see how this would differ to Digital (except there's other cars to pile in the back of you I guess!)

 

cheers,

  Eno

David,

the DSE3800 is a regulated Power Supply - replaces the small transformer that converts the mains power to low voltage for the track.

 

In the case of digital, similar to the Sport power base, there is the option of connecting in two power units to the inputs. These are marked as P1 and P2 on the digital base, and just signified as 16V AC on Sport below two otherwise unlabelled inputs. I'm feeding these inputs in my digital power base with two outputs rated at 3A from the new DSE3800 power supply ($250 from Roland at Slot Shop if you're interested). It's a decent regulated power supply, whereas the Scalextric 'wall-warts' are unregulated.

 

I'm still only able to run 4 cars, because there are no conversion chips available, and I don't want to simply buy 2 more cars of the same livery. I am thinking about buying another 2 throttle/car combo packs, and then taking the chips and putting them in my Scaley Vipers (should drop straight in, as chassis is ready for digital, with just a bit of soldering), but have so far managed to show both patience and restrain... not sure how long that'll last though, especially if the 'add-on' chips are delayed any further. Also - I don't really have room to fit 6 people into the room, as the track runs around 3 walls of the room, and there is only room comfortably for 4 people to fit and still see all parts of the track. Perhaps I should try and comandere a bigger room... uhmmm.

 

I don't see a reason why 6 cars will cause me grief (power wise), but wouldn't stick my neck out without trying it first. There have been some posts on other forums that suggest they have problems with only 4 cars - but mine are running great, no failures, no more overloads, just plenty of new and exciting fun.

 

I've got 5 lane change areas, all in what I consider to be parts of the track where overtaking for real would be likely and possible - all in the slower parts of the circuit - which is about 17M in total lane length. I do have 2 fast R3 90 degree sections, and would really like to see an R3 lane change so I could add that in the second of these sections. I'm not too bothered about the lane change on a straight, but might add one if it were released.

 

As for racing smashes - nothing worse than analog, but probably can happen more often. It can get frustrating if the same person constantly comes off, or takes lane change sections at random with no hope of completing the maneuver without taking you out. My kids are 11 and 13, and don't come off too much - and when they take me out, it is usually deliberate :-)

 

The current digital cars will all take plenty of knocks, so are good for getting used to running digital.

 

Hope this helps, message me if I can answer anything else.

 

cheers

 

Mike

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Good reading, Mike is onto it.

 

I also planned to make my existing layout a digital one from the start ( we've known about SSD for a long time now! ), and as Mike states pulling multiple LCs and the power base out to run analog ( particularly when you have a detailed landscaped layout ) is simply too much trouble.

 

YUP the only thing bugging me is the wait for the Conversion chips.

 

Initially I was very concerned/shocked/disappointed that when running 2 Scalextric power packs we experienced any power sharing or surging problems at all, my layout is really quite small.

 

Bring in the big guns - now we are also running the DSE 30 amp power supply and we not only have a fairly stable system, we can turn the voltage up to about 13.5 volts which really makes the cars perform at a level we are used to and this makes for good racing for 3 (converted) cars.

 

When we add a fourth however, we still noticed a lack of grunt when someone is making a lane change. This may not be as noticeable (if at all) with the supplied Porsche Boxsters, (they of course lack an interior & headlights which my converted cars are all running )

 

Extensive testing, tells us that the LCs demand the most current of the system and any overloads experienced (that are not braid related) are certainly current related.

 

The temptation of course is to add more voltage (I mean there no point ading more amps if they're not being utilised)... but when we approach 14 volts (which is where the cars performance seems equivalent to their analog performance), then we start having constant Overloads!

 

Our conclusion is that too little or too much power can result in Overloads and we have yet to find a way to alleviate the power drop when LCs are activated whilst running more than 2 cars.

 

Suggestions have been:

  • •Send the power supply to a car battery and then to the track
    •Add an external power pack sending extra power to the LCs only
    •Add a capacitor to each LC

Time will tell. There are good discussions and minds talking about this on various forums, its early days, and I think, on balance, a pretty good start.

 

Having said that I feel my setup is 95% perfect for 3 cars, and Im pretty happy with that, but definitely looking for that extra 5%!!!!!!!

 

Definitely addicted to digital racing -- if the point is to recreate motorsport in miniature, then -- this is it!

 

As far as 1 versus 2 power packs goes, I have always experienced 'power sharing and surging' when running any slot car set on only one tranformer. So my first step has always been to add a power pack per lane (ananlog of course).

 

Digital is no different, and as we are going to attempt running multiple cars it just stands to reason.

 

MIKE, do you experience the power drops via LCs as I describe when running 4 (supplied ) cars?

 

 

cheers all

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Good reading, Mike is onto it.

 

I also planned to make my existing layout a digital one from the start ( we've known about SSD for a long time now! ), and as Mike states pulling multiple LCs and the power base out to run analog ( particularly when you have a detailed landscaped layout ) is simply too much trouble.

 

YUP the only thing bugging me is the wait for the Conversion chips.

 

Initially I  was very concerned/shocked/disappointed that when running 2 Scalextric power packs we experienced any power sharing or surging problems at all, my layout is really quite small.

 

Bring in the big guns - now we are also running the DSE 30 amp power supply and  we not only have a fairly stable system, we can turn the voltage up to about 13.5 volts which really makes the cars perform at a level we are used to and this makes for good racing for 3 (converted) cars.

 

When we add a fourth however, we still noticed a lack of grunt when someone is making a lane change. This may not be as noticeable (if at all) with the supplied Porsche Boxsters, (they of course lack an interior & headlights which my converted cars are all running )

 

Extensive testing, tells us that the LCs demand the most current of the system and any overloads experienced (that are not braid related) are certainly current related.

 

The temptation of course is to add more voltage (I mean there no point ading more amps if they're not being utilised)... but when we approach 14 volts (which is where the cars performance seems equivalent to their analog performance), then we start having constant Overloads!

 

Our conclusion is that too little or too much power can result in Overloads and we have yet to find a way to alleviate the power drop when LCs are activated whilst running more than 2 cars.

 

Suggestions have been:

  • •Send the power supply to a car battery and then to the track
    •Add an external power pack sending extra power to the LCs only
    •Add a capacitor to each LC

Time will tell. There are good discussions and minds talking about this on various forums, its early days, and I think, on balance, a pretty good start.

 

Having said that I feel my setup is 95% perfect for 3 cars, and Im pretty happy with that, but definitely looking  for that extra 5%!!!!!!!

 

Definitely addicted to digital racing -- if the point is to recreate motorsport in miniature,  then -- this is it!

 

As far as 1 versus 2 power packs goes, I have always experienced 'power sharing and surging' when running any slot car set on only one tranformer. So my first step has always been to add a power pack per lane (ananlog of course).

 

Digital is no different, and as we are going to attempt running multiple cars it just stands to reason.

 

MIKE, do you experience the power drops via LCs as I describe when running 4 (supplied ) cars?

 

 

cheers all

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dave,

I think you sum up my thoughts entirely. There are definately some things that still need sorting, particulary on the power front, but overall this is exactly the excitement and realism I'd been hoping for before buying into it.

 

I have only got the 4 available standard digital cars on my track, red & yellow Boxter and blue & silver Audi TT's. No lights. No interiors. Basically, stripped down and fairly basic cars.

 

I must admit that when we have had 4 people running, even at only 12 Volts, I still haven't noticed any surges at all - the power even when lane changing seems consistent, although I will have to look at forcing all 4 of us to try and lane change simultaneously.

 

It also means I'm a tad reticent now to try and convert any of my cars using the chips in the current cars - perhaps the upgrade chips have been delayed because they have something extra in them that helps solve the problem you are seeing. If I swap the chips, and hate the result, is it easy to go back again - as you've done a few now?

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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One problem I have found with Scalextric Sport track sections is the electrical contacts between the track pieces can get a bit dodgy when building longer tracks. This happens over a couple of months.

 

I soldered wire between the track connections to cure the problem as jumpers soldered at different points don't help 100% of the time.

 

The 30 amp power supply should help somewhat but a the track gets older the connections become worse.

 

Once you are happy with your digital layout I imagine you will want to make it permanent and solder the connections.

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Vinno, go onnnn, you know you want one :o

 

I believe Drummer's track would benefit from squeezing each track joint for tighter cleaner joins and some power taps would have to help with the current drop.

 

I know my SCX digi set really benefitted from making all the track joints tighter.

 

I was experiencing dead spots, one car going to full throttle uncommanded and it's head lamps flashing when lights were selected off. The above fix eliminated all this and made the track feel "nicer"

 

Have only run 3 cars so far on the SCX using 2 out of 3 std available PSU's.

No surging at all with a clean track and joints.

 

SCX are 18VDC 2amp each so not sure how the D3800 will work, but will be trying it soon.

 

Will have to entice the guys round for some 6 car digital Saturday night perhaps??? :)

 

Anyhow, back to Scalex Digi, loads of fun. I purchased a Audi car/controller pack Saturday night ( I have the keys to a slot car shop :D ) Didn't even turn a lap with it. The Audi went straight to Drummers work bench and the module etc transplanted to my Scalex Porsche.

 

Looking fwd to running 6 cars on Drummer's track once the power's sorted

 

meanwhile, anyone wanna buy an Audi? :o


Cheers for now

 

Roland

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Hi Roland

John A and John F here last night, resulted in more experimentation: and the installation of a power tap!

 

2 more should solve any problems I think...

 

Did you see the video from the other night? (other thread)

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Hi Roland

John A  and John F here last night, resulted in more experimentation: and the installation of a power tap!

 

2 more should solve any problems I think...

 

Did you see the video from the other night? (other thread)

Hey Dave,

 

Glad to hear it's helping, looking fwd to see how more power taps work.

 

I will check the video asap.

 

Was discussing the issues last night with Clinton and we are of the opinion that you might benefit from not using the banana plugs and shortening up the leads from the PSU to the track as much as possible. Perhaps try some crimp terminals that can be secured under the threaded knobs of the main terminals too. Just like in Moreno's Ninco track.

 

I have a few, you'd be more than welcome to try them...

 

 

 

Edit:

Just checked out the video, looks great. Who was driving that white Porsche :lol:

Edited by Roland

Cheers for now

 

Roland

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Have noted that Mike is using the pair of outlets (3 amp) as opposed to the singular 30amp outlet. Gonna give this a try.

 

I can probably just insert the cable ends directly?

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Bring in the big guns - now we are also running the DSE 30 amp power supply and  we not only have a fairly stable system, we can turn the voltage up to about 13.5 volts which really makes the cars perform at a level we are used to and this makes for good racing for 3 (converted) cars.

Dave,

which outputs are you using on the DSE 3800 - sounds as if you are using the full grunt available from the main banana terminals - whereas I'm just using the 3A outputs?

 

Roland and Clinton suggested you keeping the power cable short - my PSU sits directly under the power base, so my cables are only about 30cm long...

 

I will probably also take Vinno's advice, and make some permanent wired connections between each track piece before I finally nail down the track - especially as you've seen a difference adding just a single power tap.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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Have noted that Mike is using the pair of outlets (3 amp) as opposed to the singular 30amp outlet. Gonna give this a try.

 

I can probably just insert the cable ends directly?

scary - looks like we were thinking exactly the same thing at the same time - our posts crossed.

 

Yes - I have the bare wires pushed directly into the speaker type terminal inputs, after soldering and then snipping the 'stripped' wire to the exact length.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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Yes, that should work well too.

I'd use both lots of clip in terminals as they're rated to 3amps each. That's how my track is wired till I get around to wiring relays in...

 

 

Apparently some banana plugs aren't the best, so how about we rule them out by deleting them from the equation?


Cheers for now

 

Roland

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Bananas are deleted.

 

Power feels good*.

 

Now have three power taps basically surrounding the heavily laden LC area.

Bugger of a job really... but testing by myself*, one can certainly notice a difference, we'll just have to have another 3 guest drivers to test thoroughly.

 

PS, found the 2005 scalex list, Pit stops pieces (and they're doing single lane straights and curves ! ), but they're slated for 4th quarter ( ! lets hope not.... ).

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as an update for those on auslot who don't see other overseas forums, thought it made sense to provide a little update on the whole 'overload' feature :D

 

It seems that under heavy racing, overloads would occur even with a decent regulated power supply being used - once you got 4 drivers running. :lol:

 

There was plenty of discussion about in on the UK forum, and a level of bitching that I'm so pleased does not happen on this little forum of ours down here. :D

 

I wont delve back into all the problem details, they are covered fairly well earlier in this thread.

 

Well, several theories transpired, but nobody on the UK forum was actively pursuing the fix, so it was left for our very own David (aka Drummer) to bite the bullet and attempt the proposed fix. This is the same Drummer who has converted Fly cars and Scaley Porsche's, and shot a video that Scalex themselves would be pleased to use as marketing material.

 

The fix entails applying power to the LC sensor straights directly, and not from the track power.

He made the necessary changes and reported everything to be groovy.

 

Well, I'd only experienced problems with overloads on my circuit when I had the gang round for some serious racing - but overload it did, once 4 or more cars was in the equation. However, I decided to also bite the bullet and make the changes too.

 

Well, the modification is really easy, although does require a soldering iron and some wire and suitable connectors - but even I had no trouble.

 

The result? Exactly as David had suggested. NO OVERLOADS, NO POWER SURGING and great racing that just simply blows analog racing away (nope, not suggesting we give up analog, but digital is great fun). I'm running happily at 14V now, and the power to the cars is great. As Roland put it, it's now as good (speed performance wise) as the best analog racing you could imagine.

 

Well - my thanks definately go out to Drummer for being the Guinea Pig who had the balls to try it . (where's the hand clapping icon the other sites have?) Well, we'll have to settle for a big cheesy grin then. :D

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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