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Hi

 

I have a sport digital power base (AZ1 is written on the back) I have been looking for a second power supply (C7004), but with no luck. I have managed to get a C7038 can I use this as the second power supply. Or would it be better to go for the DSE3800.

 

Cheers

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Update

 

Well the DSE3800 is discontinued (as it is when you want something) So the what is replacing it is the Q1765 Lab Power Supply 2-30V DC 20Amp.

 

How many amps do you need to run 6 cars?

 

Can you use this power supply to run lights around the track also.

 

The other problem is the plug that goes into the sport power digital base, does anyone know what type of plug it is. Can you get a lead that goes from the power supply direct or do you have to butcher the orginal one?

 

Thanks

 

Karlo

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You need to butcher the old one.

Amps? Allow one per car at least,plus1 amp per lane changer.


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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You need to butcher the old one.

Amps? Allow one per car at least,plus1 amp per lane changer.

 

 

So excuse the stupid question, that means I can plug into P1 and run six cars or do I need to run one plug to P1 and P2?

 

Cheers

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Summary

 

Having a bit more of a search reguarding this topic and correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Allowing for at least 1amp per car and lane change, so in my case thats 6 cars and 5 lane changers I need need at least 11amps.

 

The voltage needs to be 12.

 

I connect the both P1 and P2 on the sport digital power base to the terminal on the power supply, basical I have two plugs off the one lead. Unless I can just plug into P1 only.

 

I tried 6 cars with 4 lane changers last night on the orginal power supply and it seemed to work fine.

 

The question is, Isn't the D3800 over priced for what you are after. 3-15v regulated 25Amp $199. It seems to me that a Lab Power Supply 13.8V DC 23 Amp ($99) may do the trick. Even two 12V DC 3A (5A Max) ($59.98) could even do the trick.

 

I guess with some more searching you could pick up a 12v supply with 20amp for under $100.

 

Cheers

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The question is, Isn't the D3800 over priced for what you are after. 3-15v regulated 25Amp $199. It seems to me that a Lab Power Supply 13.8V DC 23 Amp ($99) may do the trick. Even two 12V DC 3A (5A Max) ($59.98) could even do the trick.

I would suggest that having the ability to vary the voltage is a major benefit, and at $199 those supplies are terrific value.

I know I paid quite a bit more for mine, and the full list price higher still.

I had mine modified so it actually goes up to 18V.

 

You lose 1.2 - 1.5V from the onboard decoders etc, so 12V or even 13.8V can leave some heavier cars feeling sluggish and unresponsive - so turning the gas up to 15V is a requirement in my experience.

There's loads more reasons, just have a read of some of the older PSU threads and you'll see what I mean - but I'd grab one of these while you still can if I were you.

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Thanks for all the advise, but with searching through this site on the subject you could almost start up a dedicated topic.

 

However I found this tread - Power Supply problems (Sept 2007)

 

http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?sho...hl=variable+psu

 

One post said that the

"Once you upgrade to any variable P/S u will no longer be able to use the Sport power base as it is designed for an AC voltage input not DC which variable P/S like the DS3800 "

 

Since I have sport digital power base I'm not sure of what to do now.

 

Maybe I'll finish changing the track around and see how it goes with the orginal power supply.

 

Cheers

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You need to butcher the old one.

Amps? Allow one per car at least,plus1 amp per lane changer.

 

 

So excuse the stupid question, that means I can plug into P1 and run six cars or do I need to run one plug to P1 and P2?

 

Cheers

 

Both are on the same circuit so going to one is equally as good.

 

Summary

 

Having a bit more of a search reguarding this topic and correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Allowing for at least 1amp per car and lane change, so in my case thats 6 cars and 5 lane changers I need need at least 11amps.

 

 

 

 

I guess with some more searching you could pick up a 12v supply with 20amp for under $100.

 

Fixed voltage PSUs are useless for enthusiasts. As Mike says variable is the way to go.

12V is useless for SSD, that would give around 10V on track.You get what you pay for.

Read the thread you mentioned, most posts say variable is the way to go.

 

Thanks for all the advise, but with searching through this site on the subject you could almost start up a dedicated topic.

 

However I found this tread - Power Supply problems (Sept 2007)

 

http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?sho...hl=variable+psu

 

One post said that the

"Once you upgrade to any variable P/S u will no longer be able to use the Sport power base as it is designed for an AC voltage input not DC which variable P/S like the DS3800 "

 

Since I have sport digital power base I'm not sure of what to do now.

 

Maybe I'll finish changing the track around and see how it goes with the orginal power supply.

 

Cheers

 

Scalextric analogue PB uses AC, SSD uses DC. Huge difference.

Next point you need a regulated supply other wise you get surging as cars accelerate, deslot etc.

DS 3800 is the standard for most enthusiasts and for a reason, spend less youll end up getting the DS3800 anyway, thus wasting your first investment, its the heart of the system.

The XLCs use around 0.5 amp. The old curved ones use 1.0 amp.

Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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I mean this, forgive me for my ignorance, I am new to this digital racing, isn't the Track piece marked AZ1 where the 4 controlers plug into the power base?

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Well more research has past and clarification is required. I'm sorry if I repeat myself but I want to get all the facts in one place before I go the variable power supply.

 

It seems that the power base that I bought was a digital conversation kit back in 2006 software version 1.2 (sorry no number). It was capable of running 6 cars. In the mean time Scalextric released a power base for only 4 cars (C7039) and in 2009 they have released an advanced power base (C7042) for 6 cars.

 

If this wrong please correct me. I only mention this so people know where I'm at (comparing apples with apples).

 

I have 5 lane changers (which are still powered through the track) and 6 controllers (scalextic ones)

 

I obtained (on loan) a Dick Smith bench top power supply model Q1760 - 0-30V 5Amp with two 1amp outlets.

 

I have connected the 5amp outlet to both P1 and P2 outlets.

 

The results of this are:

 

With three people racing 6 six cars and changing lanes (I should do this with 6 people to be more accurate). I think all cars had 18k motors (shall check this).

 

We never measure more than 2.8Amp max. So assuming 1Amp per car and lane change (11amps for my track) left us wondering just a bit. Unless we are doing something wrong.

 

We didn't have any overloads, I think sometimes the lane changers didn't work. We did vary the voltage from 12 to 15, however we were still getting around 2.8Amp.

 

Questions

 

So from my understanding P1 and P2 both put out 2.5Amp is this max that this power base puts out or are these combined to put out 5amp? (I think the terminology I'm using is wrong hopefully you will know what I mean).

 

Will doing the Simple H-mod to this power base actually increase the amps that is drawn or just stabilise the system as a whole?

 

Also how do you measure the voltage drop across the track at various points (I shall search this, but if there is a quick answer great)?

 

It seams that there are a lot of power issues the previous power bases, so with the new advanced power base (C7042) have these been resolved. Is it better just to buy the C7042 rather than messing with the mods and buying a variable power supply?

 

I understand you can always wait for things to improve but if you never bite the bullet then you will be waiting a long time. So its time to bite the bullet.

 

Cheers

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Bite the bullet

 

Get the simple H mod and PB Pro done, RichG and Riko will no doubt mod the new 6 car PB anyway so change to that in a year or so...it will take that long.

 

With all the mods done you will get next to no voltage drop, to see this connect a multimeter to the rails and set it on volts, now run 6 cars and observe the voltage drop.

 

If you can power the LC's seperately what you will gain is the cars will not flicker their power when you go through one of the LC's, this is the problem with sharing the power between cars and LC's.

I have done this on my track and it is good with a 9-16V 15amp PS at the PB and a 13.8V 6amp PS at the LC's which also power my street lights, the lights flicker a bit when the car passes over an LC, imagine what the voltage drop would be with the std PS and 6 cars running!


Paul NZ - Scale with Detail!

 

Narangba Club Local

 

Gold Coast Raceway 09

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Yes we are going to do simple-h mod and the PB Pro.

 

Just one thing so you can't actually measure the voltage on the rails only the drop?

 

So if I went around the track with a multi meter connect it to the rails then I can see where I'm loosing the most volts and put in power taps?

 

Cheers

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Just to revisit this I have bought a DS3800, I have also changed all the lane changes so the run on a separate power supply. Can I use the output from the DS3800 to run the lane changes or is it best to leave them on their own

 

Thanks

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Just to revisit this I have bought a DS3800, I have also changed all the lane changes so the run on a separate power supply. Can I use the output from the DS3800 to run the lane changes or is it best to leave them on their own

 

Thanks

 

At 25a, you have more than enough amps to run the LCs directly - each one takes an average of 1/4a as a car travels over it (whether its changing lane or not) However, you will need to be careful in the volts you supply - don't vary them too far away from normal.

 

BUT if you've got Simple-H, Dont Bother! The S-H can handle all of that PSU power without even flinching...! So there's no real advantage.

 

Note, too, that you can power them from the PSU because you are using the 'original' PB6. (The Advanced PB6 uses higher 15 volts, which it reduces before sending to the track and LCs)

 

Ian


Linux: A '90s reincarnation of a '80s Operating System based on a '70s design philosophy

Website: www.electricimages.co.nz

InCar-PRO: Chip Main Page

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Is it possible to run the new pb6 from a standard 12v car battery?? What 'Im trying to establish is if I connect the two power input sockets of the pb6 (via some wire and solder ) in parallel to the battery will it all work ok?.

 

Drifter


www.sydneyslotcars.com

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Is it possible to run the new pb6 from a standard 12v car battery?? What 'Im trying to establish is if I connect the two power input sockets of the pb6 (via some wire and solder ) in parallel to the battery will it all work ok?.

 

Drifter

 

Not really. The APB6 requires some modifications to allow variable (read: lower) voltage. This is because there is some voltage regulation at the input ro reduce about 2 volts. If you use a car battery (with actually supplies about 13v) you'll end up with only about 10 & 1/2v on the track, and so about 10v at the motor - a bit less than you really want for max speed.

 

May be appropriate to learner drivers, tho.

 

The modification is detailed on SlotForum, and is not complex but does require some skills.

 

Ian


Linux: A '90s reincarnation of a '80s Operating System based on a '70s design philosophy

Website: www.electricimages.co.nz

InCar-PRO: Chip Main Page

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Thanks Ian,

Its not so important in my case for max power as many of my drivers are new to slots. more so that it will operate reliably and not fry the pb.

Drfter


www.sydneyslotcars.com

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Actually the mod is detailed right here on Auslot see http://www.auslot.co...735#entry156735

 

I was expected some of you guys to neeeed more power :)

 

 

Personally I would not trust using a battery - they are a source of near infinite current, if something starts to go wrong then you are going to have a lot of melted plastic on your hands....

Edited by RikoRocket

gallery_4291_493_4007.jpg

.............................PM me for C7042 Aux to PC cables............or Pit-Pro...

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But if you connect up both connectors the trip point is 10 Amps. And it won't trip above that for at least 2 seconds (which is a hell of a long time when you are shorting the rails with a screwdriver) during which time you could get surges of 20 or 30 Amps if you use a battery. So if you pick a low value then make sure it is slow-blow or the current surge as a race starts may kill the fuse.


gallery_4291_493_4007.jpg

.............................PM me for C7042 Aux to PC cables............or Pit-Pro...

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Good point, my thinking was with two standard scaley power supplies, they are 4amps each (i think) so you have 8 amps available, So 2x 4amp fuses would be ideal.

I'll try with a low value first say 2amp x2 and see what blows :-)

 

Drifter


www.sydneyslotcars.com

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