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Tim's New Track - Lakeside!


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#1 Mark Froble

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 05:57 PM

Hi Guys,

Thought i'd show you some progress pics of my routed track I'm building....

It's my first one, so it won't be fantastic, but it's been fun building so far.

Here's the link:

Tim's Slot Car Track


Thanks.

Tim.

#2 Johno

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:08 PM

Looks great :lol:

A high quality piece of work. Well done

#3 gzminiz

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:10 PM

Looks great. What is that piece you are using for the routing in the last pic?

#4 Mark Froble

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:17 PM

View Postgzminiz, on Mar 22 2009, 06:10 PM, said:

Looks great. What is that piece you are using for the routing in the last pic?

It's one of the strips Gazza recommended....Routing Strip

Not sure what it's used for, but think it's called a "Stop Bead" or Moulding. It works really well. Read that thread for more info, including a close-up photo.

Thanks.

#5 knoath

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:27 PM

Nice one!!! :lol:
Lakeside is a great track and you seem to have pulled it off well!
I hope you can landscape it well too, it'll really finish it off!

Why only two lanes?
Where will it live?

Cheers,
Dick
Cheers,
Dick


SCMR build thread
Woodbrook Valley build thread

"A Man's home is his castle, but his garage is his sanctuary!"

#6 popdog

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:30 PM

View PostMark Froble, on Mar 22 2009, 06:57 PM, said:

Hi Guys,

Thought i'd show you some progress pics of my routed track I'm building....

It's my first one, so it won't be fantastic, but it's been fun building so far.

Here's the link:

Tim's Slot Car Track


Thanks.

Tim.
so good so far but down the track you will wish you had a third lane I am sure.

#7 Mark Froble

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:33 PM

View Postknoath, on Mar 22 2009, 06:27 PM, said:

Nice one!!! :lol:
Lakeside is a great track and you seem to have pulled it off well!
I hope you can landscape it well too, it'll really finish it off!

Why only two lanes?
Where will it live?

Cheers,
Dick

It's gonna live in the lounge room (which we never use).

I guess it's 2 lanes so I can make the track narrower to help it look closer to the real thing...

Never done landscaping before :lol: Hope I can do it!!!

The real Lakeside is only a 15 minute drive away from home which will help with landscaping ideas.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

#8 dangermouse

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:43 PM

looking good - the track looks like it will flow nicely -

the hardest part of landscaping is to stop driving the cars around :lol:

:lol:

might catch you at RR sometime

cheers
DM

#9 Ken

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:58 PM

Mate looks like an excellent piece of work. Wish I had the space and the routing skills to have something like that on the go. Keep us up to date with progress pics!

Cheers
Ken

#10 Mark Froble

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 01:03 PM

View PostKen, on Mar 22 2009, 06:58 PM, said:

Mate looks like an excellent piece of work. Wish I had the space and the routing skills to have something like that on the go. Keep us up to date with progress pics!

Cheers
Ken
I've finished the routing!! RELIEF!!!

Added a couple of pics to the site - Tim's Slot Car Track

Thanks.

Tim.

#11 Johnnyfly41

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 01:52 PM

Hey Tim,

your track looks awesome, I love the layout, proper squeezes, very scale appearance.

I am in the states and my track is plasti dip. You may have seen some voluminous posts on here regarding that surface material. I love my track, if I ever built another, it would probably be plasti dip too.

Due to the high cost of plasti Dip in Oz, there has been some discussion around finding similar industrial materials. I really think there is a solution out there. It might take some experimenting. The big thing is, non abrasive, does not sluff off, provides good grip, is durable, races clean......

I think there are foundation sealing materials, maybe rubberized roofing materials etc. that could do the same thing for you and maybe be cheaper.

Plasti Dip demands some different techniques. For instance, from what i know, your copper tape wont stick to it. My tape is directly on the MDF. If I built another track, I might lay the copper tape, then mask it for rolling on the plasti dip. I masked the slot area with .25" masking tape and then painted the MDF. then I layed the copper tape. I think it might be easier to lay the copper tape, then cover it up for painting.

In any case, whatever direction you go, please feel free to contact me with any questions. If my experience can help you in any way, I am glad to help you.

My email is johnamitchell@comcast.net should you want to contact me.

I am in the scenery phase now, it is fun, but it's true, once you get your track racing, it's hard to get any work done. I am doing screen and plaster cloth. You can see some pictures and info at www.pretzelcityspeedway.com

congrats on a very cool track.

John

Pretzel City Speedway

#12 Mark Froble

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 02:04 PM

Hi John,

Thanks to your previous posts and recommendations, I ordered some "Plasti-Dip" about an hour ago. I'm picking it up soon. I've ordered a few of the 429ml cans in black and white to mix up a grey. I got the cans for AU$35 each. My track is only 2 lanes, and is only 12metres length.....at this stage I've only ordered 3 black and 1 white can. I can always get more later.....it would be great if i could get coverage out of that amount though....that's 1.7litres. I think i'll just do a single coat.

I might buy a red and a yellow spray can of Plasti-Dip later on to paint the ripple-strips in...

Regarding when to lay the tape, this is what I think I should do....

1. Paint the slot and tape area with a clear urethane type sealant.
2. Lay the copper tape.
3. Cover the copper with masking tape.
4. Paint the track, lifting the tape whilst the paint is still wet.

You reckon that's the go??????

Thanks.

Tim.

#13 Johnnyfly41

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 10:33 AM

Tim,

I think that would be excellent, should improve the grip of the tape. I had a few issues with it coming up in small places, I just use super glue to stick it back down. I thought about doing that very thing, but "gottagetdoneitis" set in......

I think you will be very pleased. Probably over cautious, but Myron had the plasti dip lift up from his used latex track. Could have been the rubber or other contamination, but better safe than sorry.

My track is a wide three lanes, probably used six quarts from my two one gallon jugs to coat it, approximately 85 feet.

I used those hard white foam rollers, six inch wide, disposable.

Pull your masking tape immediately after rolling a section or you will have to score the edge of the tape with a exacto to get it to come up.

One coat is all you will need, it does cover, though the first pass with the roller doesnt seem like it would.

Use good ventilation, watch out, it is supposed to be flammable when wet, fumes are really something. When it cures, there is no odor at all, less than fresh latex I would say.

I was not careful at all about my ratio, as I wanted it kind of random. Just poured it into a disposable rolling tray and stirred it up. I think it looks pretty scale. Not like the super scale detailed latex tracks, but quite good.

Keep me posted on your progress.

John

#14 numbers

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 10:51 AM

Tim

Looking good!!!
It's great to see a two-laner build (don't get many of them).
Keep the pics coming so i can steal ideas for when i start building my two-laner!!!!

Numbers
Not much point reading this bit.

#15 Johnnyfly41

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 01:39 PM

Hey Tim,

some more 20/20 hindsight and food for thought.

My track is modular, so it is tremendous overkill for power taps, in 85 feet, each lane probably has 7 taps. You dont need that, I hear of 100 foot tracks that just have one power tap using copper. If you want to keep power delivery consistent, do a power tap to the left rail at one point on the track and to the right rail half way around. This way the path is always the same length.

I did it ala Luf at www.oldslotracer.com method, just drilled a hole next to the tape area and brought the wire through and bent it over 90 degrees. A slot was cut across the tape area and the tape layed down into this slot. It worked ok, but not great. If the wire wanted to push up, it would lift the tape, didnt always make the smoothest joint if my slot was not deep enough or the right shape.

Jim of Taladago raceway did his different. Prior to taping, he drilled and countersunk a hole right in the tape area for what was probably about a number 8 or so flat head brass screw. The screw head should be just less than the width of the tape at the top of the screw. keep the hole in the MDF small enough to let the screw bite into the wood.

You could then put a round terminal on your power tap wire and connect with a nut, or just simply solder to the bolt underneath the track.

Lay the tape, use a pointy tipped rubber eraser or something to get the tape to conform to the hole. Once taped, you can go back and solder the screw to the tape. Make sure your countersink is deep enough so that the screw head, with tape under it will be below surface normal ever so slightly.

this makes a stronger, smoother, easier and almost not visible power tap. Wish I would have thought of it prior to doing mine.

Make or buy a taping tool to just keep control of the roll of tape. I didnt really lay the tape using the tool, mostly it was just my tape holder. When laying your tape, take care to not pull tension into it, let it wrinkle in the turns and when pressing it down, make sure you are not pulling tension on it. This will result in breaks later on.

If you are going to stripe the outside edge of the track with a white stripe, you might want to brush white PD onto this area before rolling. Then mask the edge of the track with thin tape. Much easier than doing it later and having to lay parallel lines of tape so you can brush on white over the track paint. Duh, guess which way I did it !!!!

I went back with just black and added in some pavement patches. I will probably use a sharpie to put some cracks onto the road surface some day. I probably should have put a little white into the black for the patches, they are pretty black but are dulling up where the tires travel. Here, you can always get black in a 16 oz can at Home Depot and the like. So, if thats the case for you and you run low on material, you can always use the placing of patches to finish off your finish.

I can tell from the quality of your work that you are going to do a super neat job of this, so my dumb ideas, you have probably already thought of something better.

I emailed Myron to tell him there is going to be another PD track in the world, as far as I know, he is Father Plasti Dip. He is not on the forums much really, but he will be happy to know there is another convert.

I guess the guys that overcoated their tracks are still happy with them. I am very glad it worked out for them. Using the Dip is more work, more expense than at least some track surface coatings, but then, when you look at the entire project, it's not much really.

Sorry to blab, but it was on my mind, may have been covered in my other long winded posts, but I wanted to throw it out there in case you had not gotten to those steps yet.

John

Pretzel City Speedway

www.pretzelcityspeedway.com (the track is working better than the web site right now, work in progress)

j

#16 Mark Froble

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 05:51 PM

Hi Guys,

I painted my track today, and wanted everyone to have a look!

Tim's Slot Car Track UPDATED

The Plasti-dip seems great.

Very happy indeed.

Stuffed a few spots, but Lakeside isn't the most perfect track around :unsure:

Thanks.

Tim.

#17 GTR XU-1

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 06:05 PM

View PostMark Froble, on Apr 20 2009, 03:51 PM, said:

Hi Guys,

I painted my track today, and wanted everyone to have a look!

Tim's Slot Car Track UPDATED

The Plasti-dip seems great.

Very happy indeed.

Stuffed a few spots, but Lakeside isn't the most perfect track around :unsure:

Thanks.

Tim.

Track has come up a treat Tim - Well done! The colour looks good

Dave

#18 dangermouse

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 06:19 AM

Hey Tim
track progress looks great.....

cheers
DM

#19 ozquad44

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Posted 24 April 2009 - 12:31 AM

G'Day
Where did you buy your plasti dip from?

All I can find is pressure packs or small cap cans about of 300-400 mls. They all cost about 28 to 30 bucks each, Is that the norm?

#20 Mark Froble

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Posted 24 April 2009 - 11:20 AM

View Postozquad44, on Apr 24 2009, 12:31 AM, said:

G'Day
Where did you buy your plasti dip from?

All I can find is pressure packs or small cap cans about of 300-400 mls. They all cost about 28 to 30 bucks each, Is that the norm?


Hi Ozquad,

Here are the distibutors in Australia - Once you're at the site, click on your state on the left: Plasti-Dip Distributors

Everything you said above is normal, although you can buy larger quantities in cans from certain stockists.

I coated my whole 12metre, 2-lane track with just less than 3 x 429ml cans.

Thanks.

Tim.





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