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ozquad44

Magnetic Paint, Gloss Finish, Or Matt Finish

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I will post a few more pictures of the Plasti dip pretzel. I think you guys are doing some neat work, work that benefits everyone.

 

IMG_0014.jpg

 

here is a picture of the whole track. Lighting is not the best, sorry about that. Lighting is those 65 watt recessed can lights. A few are now CFL. Point is, sort of a specular light source that does not produce uniform illumination of the track.

 

IMG_0011.jpg

 

Here is a picture of the track, just after coating. You see the inner section still has masking tape over the slots. This is before I learned to pull the tape while it is wet. Kind of tedius scoring around both sides of each slot. Plasti dip is tough, add to that, the MDF yields under the blade and it makes it hard to get a good scoring.

 

DSCF1395.jpg

 

Here is a close up of the track during painting. No prep to the MDF, just roll it on. Adhesion is amazing, no worries. I think the tape would stick better if there was a gloss enamel on the tape area. But, it really has not been too much of a problem, super glued a couple of places, one solder repair of a tear. That was probably growing pains, no issues now for months.

 

DSCF1399.jpg

 

I said no prep work, but you do need a good dust collector to get the dust off the track. it's really handy if you have a four year old who can walk the unsupported track to get the hard to reach spaces. :) He's available for hire. Tiny, my right hand man.

 

DSCF0738.jpg

 

 

I have somewhere a picture of a can of that Clorobarp from Spain. If I can find it, I will post it too. If someone can read Spanish, it might yield what the product is intended for, allowing a local equivalent to be found.

 

On the "axle tramp" issue, I experienced that back in high school, this girl was always standing next to my chevelle wanting to go for a ride. :)

 

Seriously, most of my cars run very smooth. Ninco Mosler's wheel hop like crazy if you over drive them. Yes, this is "caused" by amazing grip. The way I look at it, the grip is pointing out the flaws in the car itself. Mosler number 2 is going to get a rework, axles, wheels, bushings, chassis stiffening etc. The slot it's are so smooth it is frightening, similar power, same grip, comparable car make up, so, I know it can be cured.

 

Here is a link to a video of cars on our track. This was in the early days of getting it running. Cars are box stock on stock tires, no rubber laid down on track yet and no weight added to cars. The cars are two scaley GT 40's and a scaley maseratti. Cars appear pretty loose, we can drive better than that now. All my "runners' are wearing home made urethanes. A 11 second car on stock tires can turn low 8's on urethanes. My slot it porsche 956 is capable of sub 8 second laps on 85' with urethanes, still no weight added, stock car. I am a old fashioned non magnet guy, and to me, this is doing pretty good.

 

 

j.

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Thanks for the progress reports chilla -

 

How thick are the ten coats? - I am wondering if this would be an option to repaint parts of my track. From all the discussion I have picked up on in other threads I am thinking I don't necessarily want magnets for grip but rather for downforce - to hold the car on the track and stop them bouncing around. Maybe this will provide a little extra downforce??? I think I have enough grip on my track with silicones or urethane tyres but with some cars it is the hopping which bothers me.. (eg my Carrera D Type Jag)

 

cheers

DM

 

PS what is Super Grip?

 

No idea how thick but it doesn't seem too much. I'll try to measure it against an unpainted piece.

 

I agree about the downforce. I don't necessarily want magnets for lateral grip if I can get that with the track but there are a few cars I like that are untuneable economically, the Scaley Escort and Mini for example. I see nothing wrong with the the volume toy manufacturers designing cars around neo magnets so a bit of magnet to keep 'em driveable is okay with me. I'll stick the boot into Fly here though. There's absolutely no excuse for a manufacturer targeting the enthusiast market and making a car that's undriveable non-mag :)

 

I'm looking for a bit less magnet and a bit more grip to satisfy my quest for the perfect grip/slip compromise. I'm pretty sure Plastidip, combined with magnetic paint on my woody, will do the job. Should know in a week or two (going to Phillip Island :) ).

 

Super Grip is a spray on compound from the makers of Plastidip. The guy who sold it to me said it was the same product but it ain't. It's super sticky stuff and is meant to treat floor rugs and suchlike to stop them sliding about on the floor. It doesn't stick very well to hard surfaces (at least to plastic) and I reckon it'd be way too sticky for a track (I didn't even bother to try). It'd be great for a drag strip though, although you'd have to maintain it.

I'm pretty sure it'd be a cure for old slipery tyres. I'm gonna remove the rears from my Lotus Sevens, dangle 'em on a bit of wire and give 'em a spray.

 

My experimenting is based on economics more than anything else. I don't want to buy new tyres for everything in my collection and I don't want to go to the effort of making them either.


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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Just tried the Plastidipped Carrera curves against raw Carrera and the results are chalk and cheese.

 

I built a small oval with four straights and R1 curves. I tried it first with both curves Plastidip and the Revell Benz 220, non mag Torino, Renault Alpine and Lotus Seven on old slippery tyres. They were all fun to drive and held on far longer than I remembered them doing on Scaley. The Alpine was a blurr so I'll need to wind the magnet back a fair bit to make it realistic.

 

Then I tried it with one end raw Carrera and the fun stopped immediately. The Lotus was virtually uncontrollable and the Benz was off on the first corner.

 

The Torino was, perhaps the most instructive. I removed the magnet for club racing and haven't put it back so it's a bit slippery on plastic but, unlike the Benz, it slips a long way before it tips. At the limit of lateral adhesion on Plastidip, it would hop a bit and wash off speed quickly but stay in the groove, making it fast and forgiving. It needed a very stupid bit of driving to get it to deslot.

 

The Benz tipped over before it got anywhere near sliding on the Plastidip but slipped before it tipped on the raw track. It's very pleasant to drive on Plastidip. It requires some restraint because of the high CofG and lack of brakes but would be huge fun against a similar car. Sort of what you'd expect in a car from the 'sixties. Plastidip has saved this one from a life on the shelf. :) I could keep driving it around all day. Can't wait to give it a run on Barcelonish once I've Plastidipped it.

 

The Lotus was, understandably, undriveable on the raw track with it's old tyres but, despite huge wheel spin down the straights, was a heap of fun on Plastidip.

 

So, big thanks to Johnnyflyfourtyone for all the great info :):D :D

 

 

I used clear spray and the sprayed pieces don't look all that much different from the raw track.

I'd strongly recommend a good scrub to remove all the old rubber etc and prime with ESP primer (I tried tile and laminate primer on Scaley once and it didn't work).

Edited by chilla

Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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Back to the magnetic paint experiment...

 

How thick are the ten coats?

 

Less than 1 mm, probably around .5 mm.

 

Not enough to cause any problems I'd say.


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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Interesting and well described postings here Charles. I am fascinated by the process you have undertaken. Might be something I will be doing to my SSD track when I set it up. Need to build a hoist system first but after that all systems are GO!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Plastidipped the curves on my Scaley Barcelonish track today and boy, has it transformed it. I reckon it's the best track I've had and would even go so far as to say it's the best I've raced on.

I was hoping the Revell Benz would be fun to drive and it didn't disappoint. The SCX Alpine and R8 are now way to magnetey so I'll have to rip 'em out and see.

 

The Torino, SCX Chev and Scaley Chev NASCARs all went very well non mag, with the SCX (not the Car of Tomorrow model) having the edge.

 

I think I removed the masking tape too early (or just a little too late) because the coat had skinned and I pulled it up a bit. Doesn't affect it but makes it look a bit sunburned on the edges. I'll experiment with the remaining unused curves to find the optimum application process (I was in too much of a hurry today :D ). The masking tape I used was wider than the rails but I figured it wouldn't matter because it was clear. Next time I'll run a blade around to trim it to the edge of the rails (easy because I only have a few left to coat).

 

I'm having second thoughts about magnet-painting the NASCAR oval now, the way the NASCARs went on the treated plastic, I think I'll just stick with non mag and Plastidip (that way, all I have to do is mask the tapes, ESP prep it, spray it and be racing again by teatime tomorrow :lol:).

 

Gotta thank Johnnyflyfourtyone yet again. Best 32.95 slot car bucks I've spent in a long time :lol:.


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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How much coverage do you get from one can Chilla?

 

At $30+ a pop could be very expensive to do a whole wood track

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Charles,

 

just how fast does the earth rotate where you live ?

 

You must have more hours in a day than me based on what you get accomplished, great work.

 

Yep, I learned to paint a area with a roller, maybe 8 feet long and then stop and pull the tape up while it's plenty wet. You get some on your hands, but thats the only way to make a clean getaway. othersise, you might as well let it dry, score it and take up the tape. I have the same thing where I pulled it up after it had skinned over. Looks like peeling skin sort of right near the tape edge.

 

If you look at my pics in the previous post, there are little squiggly pieces where I missed with the scoring. Those little buggers just stretch and stretch, so I just pretty much left them there.

 

Back in the day, racing on carerra plastic, I went as far as buying the magnetic chalkboard paint to do a test. It's still new in the can. I finally had a flash of brilliance and said, "john, you dont like magnets anyway, why are you trying to make your whole track magnetic ?" I think a mild amount of pull, present across the entire track would be a far better driving experience than the glued to the rails when in line magnet effect. For those that want to race with magnets, your research should benefit them greatly.

 

I knew the experience needed to change for me, but cars with no magnets on carerra just didnt drive well. I had a scratch built chaparall 2D in 1/24th on ortman tires that was quite light. It was loose but a hoot to drive on plastic. I anguished over, do I do scale scenery and paint the carerra track, magnet paint, paint with a abrasive on the plastic..... Luf's site, www.oldslotracer.com was my place to go to dream. Routing a natural line track, having three lanes, flowing lines etc. etc. had me hooked, so I shelved my plans to fix the plastic experience and went routed. I am so glad I did and so glad that along the way I met Myron, thanks to his perseverence and experimentation, (and his patience in tolerating all my dumb questions )I have a wonderful track.

 

Myron offered many times for me to come and race on his track. He is probably about 13 hours by car from me, 4.5 hours in my plane. i will still do that some day, just to get to meet Myron in person and do some racing.

 

I could tell in emailing and talking to Myron, he was concerned about recomending plasti dip for fear it would not wow me like it did him. Finally I just had to say, "Myron, we ask for advice, we listen to it all, and ultimately we have to make our own choices and live with them" I liked how he viewed racing, he had the latex experience already, so I felt I would like it too. I still bought the small pint can and painted it on some MDF. I didnt race on it, I simply set different cars on it and attempted to drag them sideways. I could tell it gripped great, felt clean, covered great, was not too shiny, so I felt I had a winner.

 

Were it not for the routed track with plasti dip surface, I probably would not be typing to you now, I would have shelved the hobby, stuck my prettiest cars to the fridge door with their magnets and called it quits. Oz, might be better off. :nice:

 

We run our track on 12 volts. A lot of routed track guys run on reduced voltage. Myron claims he runs his track on like 8-9 volts. I am thinking of buying Myron a volt meter for a gift when I go there to race as I dont see how that is possible. The guys racing on latex all tell me, no way, 12 volts is way to high. If you watched my youtube video, you see my four year old, new to non mag racing kicking our butts with a box stock car. Because the experience is so much better, such predictable driving, his driving improved from the get go on wood. My track with no scenery you would think would be a car eater. It's not, most deslots are very mild, the car ends up next to the slot and maybe on it's lid. I have yet to change guides on any cars, but I am going to slot it wood track guides and Ninco pro race etc. eventually.

 

I am going to try to get Myron to check in to this forum. I think I will tell him we have a bunch of annoyed Australians, I sold them on Plasti dip and they hate it and they are coming here to kick some ass. As far as I know, he is the father of plasti dip. Luf and his gang came up with the flexible strip, copper taped trackbuilding, Myron added plasti dip and me, I get to sit back and be the benefactor of both. :lol:

 

By the way, I was so loving my track and my cars, then one day, in the mail arrived some home made urethane tires from Myron. The next week I was on Paul Gage's web site ordering his starter kit. I have molds for about 35 styles of tires now, love making tires and the driving experience is fantastic. So, I call my tires "Myronelli's".

 

j

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How much coverage do you get from one can Chilla?

 

At $30+ a pop could be very expensive to do a whole wood track

 

Easy. Use clear and just do the curves. I still have (I think) heaps left after coating six Carrera 60 degree R1s, 3 full circles of Scaley R2s and one full circle of Scaley R1s. Very close to all the set track curves in my collection and enough left over for turns 1, 2 3 and 4 on my routed NASCAR woody.

 

My advise would be to build, tape/braid and paint the track first and apply Plastidip clear (after masking the rails) to just the curves.


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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We run our track on 12 volts. A lot of routed track guys run on reduced voltage. Myron claims he runs his track on like 8-9 volts. I am thinking of buying Myron a volt meter for a gift when I go there to race as I dont see how that is possible. The guys racing on latex all tell me, no way, 12 volts is way to high.

 

I am with you - I have a 12v transformer with a variable speed controller and at first I turned it down for some cars - then when I started running home made urethanes I turned it up and that is where it stays - I do turn it down when I get a new car to see how it handles different volatges - but it doesn't take long before I am up to 12v again

 

cheers

DM

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Charles et al,

 

I only have Myron's experience to pull from, but keep a eye out for incompatibility to some paints. Myron's first track was latex, with rubber layed down from racing. He said the Plasti Dip clear peeled up eventually. Now, he was testing a whole lot of materials at that time, maybe it was a fluke or it was related to something else going on.

 

I am glad you are getting good results, I would hate it if someone had a mess on their hands due to incompatibility or something.

 

I sent a email to Myron asking him to check in here, he can elaborate on the various tests that he did.

 

j

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My letter to Myron, this should get his attention. :nice:

 

 

 

 

 

Hey Myron,

 

 

 

I don’t know if I told you, but I have been on the Australian slot car forum. www.auslot.com A great bunch of guys, I like their take on our hobby.

 

 

 

Interestingly, a lot of tracks down there are coated with a material called “ferodor†or something like that. Great grip, but abrasive as heck and hard on cars that end up shiny side down. There was this thread on the forum, under “discussion†topic about recoating over the ferodor, what paints work best or whatever.

 

 

 

Well, you know me and my big mouth, or affinity for typing anyhow, I jumped in there singing the praises of Plasti Dip. Don’t worry I did not try to steal your thunder, I presented you as the Godfather of plasti dip track surface.

 

 

 

Well, anyway, therein lies the problem. Turns out a bunch of these guys went out and painted their tracks with Plasti Dip and they hate it !!! For the life of me, I don’t know whats wrong, is the Plasti Dip material different down there ? Is it that whole water going down the toilet counter clockwise thing causing a bad driving experience ???

 

 

 

Luckily ( for me ), I gave all the credit to you and so they are really more annoyed at you than me. OK, I might have said, “hey, it was Myron’s idea, not mine, don’t shoot the messenger “. Honestly Myron, I never told them where you live, but between Luf’s site, google earth etc. they have tracked you down somehow.

 

 

 

I just thought you should know as it’s getting pretty ugly, it sounds like they are rounding up a Australian lynching party to come to Oklahoma. They are talking about some form of torture called the “kangarooâ€. That is apparently where they grab your stomach around the belly button area and pull your skin up and over your head, putting you into a pocket of your own making. I tried to dissuade them, for one, I told them, Myron is not your average Yank who has more than enough skin for this. They said, no worry, we may have to make a few slits here and there to get it to work.

 

 

 

You might try going to the forum and finding this thread and explaining yourself.

 

 

 

I just thought you should know before a band of crazy annoyed slot heads shows up to turn you in to a marsupial.

 

 

 

Other than that, I hope all is well with you.

 

 

 

Your friend,

 

John

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G'day Johnny, Unfortunately it looks like your one yank with a good sense of humor, unfortunately for your mates that is! :nice: Thanks for the tip on the Plastidip, Tried it, Loved it!

 

I'm running Scaley cars on scaley track. I've had about two metres of MDF painted in primer attached to the scaley track and the change in surface was annoying other users of my track (I kinder liked the slippery corner, but I digress). So I had a problem on my hands.

 

Well not anymore, now going from Scaley magnet track to Plastidip non magnet track is a no brainer, virtually the same traction as the magnets. I couldn't believe it. Braking distance is about the same, cornering traction better than magnets (Get this-almost too much traction), and exceleration just as good. All this on RTR cars, no tuning, no aftermarket tyres, no chassis adjustments, no sticky goop, no black arts, and not a scereck of magnetic effect required. Just what I wanted.

 

Down side..... Very Pricy Product, perhaps too grippy! a little bit of axle hop if your too heavy with the excelerator on the bends, and pulling the masking tape up once the paint has dried out. (I had to cut the tape away from the rest of the painted surface.)

 

Up side..... Its mostly up side, Great traction, little difference to driving on magnets, RTR cars do fine on it, controlled slides possible (strike possible, insert mandatory), low sheen finish looks good and more realistic than plastic track, negates the need for magnibraid, great traction with standard tyres (in fact hard old tyres may even do OK on it), nice non abrasive surface, even traction across the whole width of the track (none of this magnetic break away carry on).

 

I am one happy camper. As soon as I tried it I was shocked how well the cars performed on it. I did two coats but next time I may go with one coat, just to give the surface (you won't believe this) a little less traction.

 

Chilla, your work with the magnetic paint sounds like it was heading in the right direction, but unfortunately I think it might all add up to nought given how well the Plastidip worked for my track. I dip my hat to you for giving it a read hot go, instead of boo hooing it. Ten coats sounds like it would have been a ball tearer. But its a mute point now, I think I'm a Plastidip convert.

 

Now all we have to do is find a "rubber" paint thats a bit cheaper to buy.

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I am glad to hear you are happy Ozquad.

 

Myron will come out of his hiding place in the woods soon and I can tell him I was only joking.

 

Regarding the track having "too much grip", not to worry, once you have a grippy surface, you can always loosen it up. How ? Just dont dust it. After a month or so, my track slicks up a bit. I have a stack of cheap tack rags from Home Depot, Menards, wherever, home improvement centers. I take about five minutes and wipe every inch of the track and curbing. That brings it back to like new status.

 

If you have a real square edged tire, radius the outer edge slightly to avoid a digging in action when the tail kicks out in corners.

 

Spending what little spare time I have working on my track, I have not yet done much car hopping up. I really believe though that a wheel hopping car can be cured. those flaws were there, you just had not seen them yet. My Ninco Moslers, love those cars, but they are about as smooth as a bucket of rocks. Adding urethanes and on my routed track, they developed wheel hop.

 

My first hop up is going to be that car, drill blank axles, sloting plus self aligning bearings, slot it ergal gears, stiffen the chassis and secure the motor......

 

My slot it 956's are scary smooth, never wheel hop. The difference must be those subtle fit issues.

 

Thats interesting that you have a hybrid track, may the wood part grow and grow...

 

I agree, PD is a little more of a pain in the application. But, I had to do it once and I have a track I love. So, maybe in the big picture, it really wasnt any more work.

 

Another thing I forgot to mention. I used 3M green painters masking tape. I used three strips, third one to cover the slot. I used cheapo masking tape at the track edge. When rolling with a hard foam roller, the stiction to the wet plasti dip would peel up the tape over the slot if not careful. I would use the standard masking tape, not painters tape for the stronger adhesive. Not fun to have wet plasti dip and your masking tape pulls up and wraps around the roller.

 

I am with you, you know a coating like this works, now, to find something you like thats cheaper, kind of like buying wine.

 

Post some pics of these recoated tracks when you get a dull moment.

 

I wonder if the clear PD would be a good way to go for the guys that want to overcoat the ferador ?

 

PD should be easier on your cars lids, as it is really softer than paint. I dont worry about that as I never deslot. :nice:

 

j

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For any Auslotters in New Zealand, Plasti-Dip is available from Homersham's. $25 for 429ml, $185 for 3.7l. Prices are GST exclusive. If you're out of the Christchurch area, dangerous goods transit fees apply (so NO, you will not be bringing it on any airplane!).

 

JohnnyFly and Chilla, what kind of coverage would one expect out of a litre of this stuff? Is rolling really the only way to go? Seems a shame to lose five bucks worth of the stuff to a paint roller!

 

Dangermouse and (I think) JohnnyFly, can you share more info (PM or new thread) on homemade urethane tyres? I have several (okay, maybe 60) cars that need upgrade, and it's not cost-effective to buy MJKs for every one, despite the fact that I'm quite pleased with the MJKs.

 

Matt

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For any Auslotters in New Zealand, Plasti-Dip is available from Homersham's. $25 for 429ml, $185 for 3.7l. Prices are GST exclusive. If you're out of the Christchurch area, dangerous goods transit fees apply (so NO, you will not be bringing it on any airplane!).

 

JohnnyFly and Chilla, what kind of coverage would one expect out of a litre of this stuff? Is rolling really the only way to go? Seems a shame to lose five bucks worth of the stuff to a paint roller!

 

Dangermouse and (I think) JohnnyFly, can you share more info (PM or new thread) on homemade urethane tyres? I have several (okay, maybe 60) cars that need upgrade, and it's not cost-effective to buy MJKs for every one, despite the fact that I'm quite pleased with the MJKs.

 

Matt

 

I used a spray can of clear and have so far covered 6 Carrera 60 degree R1s, 24 Scaley R2s and 8 R1s. There still seems to be a fair amount left.

 

I recommend spray clear as the most economical option. You can paint the track whatever colour you want and just apply one coat of Plastidip clear on the curves. My Scaley track is 14.6 metres (48 feet) so one can should be plenty for most tracks, maybe even Phil Rourke's 70 Metre monster Ninco at Finley. I joined all the curves up into circles and prepped them and sprayed them all in one go.

 

On painting, I used a pad for my magnetic paint test and wasted hardly any, much less than a roller or brush. I applied ten coats with it and by alternating the strokes by 90 degrees each application, ended up with a reasonably smooth finish.

 

An unexpected side effect I noticed tonight is that now the grip is so much higher and consistent all around, what was quite a flowing layout now has a couple of spots where the cars seem to jerk around a bit so I'm thinking a few modifications might be in order.


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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On the coverage issue and using a roller to lay down Plasti-Dip.

 

I used those small foam rollers. I used the most dense one they make. These are white foam, probably 6" long. I used disposable rolling pans. I simply poured black and white together in the rolling pan and stirred it with a paint stick. A cheap paintbrush can be used to chase out the last bits so as not to waste any.

 

I did one coat only and that seemed to be good. I then went back with some black, and created some pavement patches. I will probably use a sharpie next and draw in some cracks.

 

My track is about 85' running length, three lanes, 3.5" spacing with very generous curbing. If you are thinking plastic track, think of my track as the same area as a four lane track. That would probably be about right.

 

I used probably 1.5 gallons total to do my track. Really, very very little is wasted using those small rollers. Having a friend "mate", handy to pull the masking tape after you roll a section would be handy, get that tape up while it is WET. If you have help, you could do your whole track in one session, using one roller and one pan. Just watch out for any of it setting up and creating a bunch of unwanted bumpies.

 

As to the grip being almost excessive, I wonder, is that because of the surface texture of the plastic track ? All of my curves are flared entry and exit using the flexible strip method, so maybe that is a factor too. This is God's way of telling you to build a routed track. ;)

 

I cannot say my grip is excessive. If I take a car that was tippy and hard to drive on carerra plastic, say a monogram Grand Am corvette, Cobra daytona coupe for instance. That car is still what it is, but more predictable to drive by far on the plasti dip routed track than it was on plastic even with the magnets. These cars need some weight, guide, chassis mods to get them down low and move their CG lower, then they could probably be a hoot.

 

Here in the states, they sell Plasti Dip in home improvement stores like Home Depot, usually in only a couple of colors and in pint cans. It's not very expensive. However, once opened, it has very poor shelf life in those little cans. The cap does not fit tight, I tried to seal it up better and it still set up in a few weeks. My one gallon metal cans, it seemed to keep a long time with less than a quart left in each can.

 

As far as I know, no one here has sprayed it, so you have your experience there regarding that. Interesting how knowledge grows, you take a idea like Plasti Dip and you are coating plastic track, wood track, over paint and spraying it, gaining much more experience than what was previously had.

 

Sorry, if I try to do the math, liters to gallons, feet to meters, I will goof it up, so I just layed out what I know to be the case.

 

 

j

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Possible alternative to Plasti Dip coating.

 

I had some corresponce with David in Spain. He used a product called Clorobarp. He is extremely happy with it. From his description, it must be similar to put down, similar result to plasti dip.

 

However, where Plasti Dip is really a retail market sort of product, this product David found is much more industrial in nature. I have not found it in the states, but it or a product like it must exist, here or in Oz or wherever.

 

The link to the manufacturer is http://www.barpimo.es/index_eng.htm

("Products" / "Decorative line" / "Impermeabización y rehabilitación" / "Elasticom transitable")

 

The link to the data sheet is http://www.construnario.com/diccionario/sw...mpermeabilizaci

%C3%B3n%20y%20rehabilitaci%C3%B3n/Impermeabilizantes/Elasticom%20transitable.pdf

 

Here is a picture of the can.

 

Clorobarpcan.jpg

 

From what I could tell, it is a rubber coating, suitable to be walked on.

 

I am going to contact a commercial roofer I know here, see if he is aware of a product like that in the states. Still several time zones from Oz, but we might be able to corner a product much cheaper than Plasti Dip, here, there, anywhere.

 

David participates in the www.slotforum.com/ group, that is where I met him.

 

John

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As to the grip being almost excessive, I wonder, is that because of the surface texture of the plastic track ? All of my curves are flared entry and exit using the flexible strip method, so maybe that is a factor too. This is God's way of telling you to build a routed track. wink.gif

 

The grip isn't excessive at all and cars will still slide if pushed. It's more likely to be the way the cars track around the corners with no differential. They still get around okay, it's just that there are now a couple of places where they're not quite as smooth as I'd like. That's the advantage of plastic track, I'll have the changes made in minutes rather than weeks ;)


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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I dont know how useful I will be to you searching on the Yank side of things.

 

I went today to a industrial roofing contractor. I found a product by Tremco, it's a two step roof coating system. Perhaps one or the other would be suitable. It's called the SRC coating system. Moisture cure polyurethane system.

 

Devcon makes a brush on rubber product. I know there are some guys using it to coat the leading edges of propellors on their Jabiru powered planes. See, thats a Oz product right there ! Find your local SAA chapter, Jabiru engine site, etc. and maybe someone can fill you in on what the Devcon product is. My guess is, it will be like Plasti Dip, sold at retail at huge markup in small quantities.

 

I got to thinking about products in our home improvement stores, things for sealing up basements and foundations and the like. I did not have time to go see what they carried.

 

So, at home here on the computer, I did some searching, I found www.amesresearch.com/ another stateside company, located in Oregon. Very good web site and the products are reasonable in price. One concrete sealer I looked at, 29 dollars per gallon, 121 dollars for 5 gallons.

 

It's out there guys, construction, roofing, concrete sealant, swimming pool materials....... we will find it and find it cheap.

 

I love my Plasti Dip coated track, however, I am certain that that same material or a material that would work just as good is out there, we just dont know yet what it is called, what the industrial or construction application is for it etc.

 

This thread started out, (I think) on a magnetic coatings topic. If I have hijacked it, I am truly sorry. Be it magnets, paints mixed with moonrock dust, rubber coatings, I really dont care myself, I just want great racing. I know I found it with Plasti Dip, now the mission is to find it cheaper.

 

j

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I have been reading this thread with interest. Most of the tracks i have run on are ferrador and it does have its good points but the problems have been listed. I am a while away from building a track but eventually i would like to and there are a few things i like about the idea of plast dip or similar surfaces. One is that it seems to respond to all types of tyres. In a proxy race a year or so back i read a thread about Hoffys track that is (Enoch grey)the least abrasive ferrador and a terrific track to run on However all the silcone entered cars gave a display akin to Bambi on ice. Not much fun for people who have sent their cars off and spent long hours tuning them. Also It is good to have alternate styles and types of tracks so a different surface would be cool. I ran on a blackboard painted smooth track once and the grip from oil soaked NSR tyres was just amazing so there is something to be learned from all surfaces. someone earlier said gloss tracks give better grip than rough ferrador and simple physics tells you the greater the contact patch the greater the available grip so in theory a smoother track should have greater optimal grip. Other factors enter the equation of course but thats a simple snapshot. I have no doubt that a few indusrious Aussie slotters will hunt around for a similar less expensive product and pass the knowledge on. Would be good for everyone. Thanks John for introducing this product style.


4x national champion 6x national runner up. I come second most often but my girlfriends happy.

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The good lady and I went to Bairnsdale today to do our monthly big grocery shop and while I was in town I visited a few places to look for Plasti Dip or similar products.

 

Couldn't find anyone that stocked it sadly. Some hadn't even heard of it lol.

The closest that I could find that could be useful to try as a track surface is

 

02252009150.jpg

 

Found there site here. Doing a bit of reading it looks to be a textured product though so possibly is abrasive in nature.

 

Under product list -> suretread range

 

http://www.khst.com.au/index_hardware.html

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I got my pressure pack can from a big boat shop. There was another local boat shop that had it also. Apparently the boat industry uses it to seal wiring connections and so fourth.

 

The surface, once dried, is like a thin rubber glove. Absolutely magic stuff. I've had a bit more time to get used to the surface now and the more I use it the more I love it. The RTR cars are virtually just as quick on the rubber as they are on the magnetic track. The bonus of the rubber track is that you can dial in power-slides (or not, your choice) without the fear of easily overcooking it like on magnetic track. You can also make the wheels spin on take off for short distances before it hooks up. Or not, again your choice.

 

 

I've got some photos, but have no idea how to post them. If I emailed them to someone would they be willing to post them up for me.

 

Cheers

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