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ozquad44

Magnetic Paint, Gloss Finish, Or Matt Finish

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Plasti Dip is avaliable in Oz, see here Plastidip.

 

It's pretty exy though, I was quoted $39 for a 429 ml can and $33 for a 312 gm spray can.

 

But how does that compare with ferrodor? (still think it is more, but maybe worth it?)

 

 

See my edited post :P

 

Waytofast is building a Feradore six laner and I had a look at a painted bit the other day. It's like fine sandpaper so I can imagine it'd be quite abrasive. I think the Feradore is more about cosmetics, you can get similar grip by adding the "sprinkles" you can buy for paving paint. Feradore will give a more consistent finish though. Both are abrasive.

 

I haven't seen a Plastidip track (might soon though, I'm thinking of spraying a clear coat over my existing semi-gloss acrylic-and-sprinkles track).

 

I'll post my findings if I decide to try it.


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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Yikes, that is pricey.

 

I paid 65 dollars per gallon. I bought two gallons and had plenty left over on a 85' three lane track with very wide borders. I did find a huge variation in the price though, some wanted double that. Also, several would not ship it.

 

I bought it at that price and they shipped it UPS ground, no issues at all and very cheap. On a track this size, 130 dollars is not bad. Not as cheap as buying latex "oops" paint, but I got what I wanted with one coat. I bought a gallon of black and a gallon of white, splash mixed it in a rolling pan and used a firm small foam roller. Ventilation is key, the stuff has wicked odors when wet. Nothing at all when dry, less than paint I would say.

 

David in Spain used a product called "Clorobarp". I did a google search of this and found a spanish web site that had it. I cannot read enough of it to navigate the site. I think this is a product for coating roofs or walkways on roofs. He says it looks great, great grip, stays clean and is super tough. Seems to be a rubber type of product.

 

I dont know if this product would perhaps be available there or not.

 

Probably there is a end user in Oz of one of these products, just how to find them and would they sell you what they needed.

 

when painted on a track, it does not feel rubbery, wipes and vacuums easily, no tacky feel to it or anything. Rubber seems to be laying down a line on it. paints dont stick to it and it doesnt stay stuck to paint, so, your curbing and striping just be done in plasti dip as well.

 

I know, its not for everybody. i am so happy with it, I just cannot help but share.

 

John

Pretzel City Speedway

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wonder if I can take it on a plane. I am heading to the states in may...

 

No need, you can buy it pretty much all over OZ.

 

I just bought a 326 gram can of Super Grip for $30 here in Canberra. I was told it was the same stuff as Plasti Dip (it's made by the same manufacturer).

 

I'm hoping to give it a try as soon as I've finished working (which I should be doing now instead of fooling about with slot cars :P).

 

I'm going to try it on some Carrera curves first and might experiment with it on some tyres.


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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wonder if I can take it on a plane. I am heading to the states in may...

 

No need, you can buy it pretty much all over OZ.

 

I just bought a 326 gram can of Super Grip for $30 here in Canberra. I was told it was the same stuff as Plasti Dip (it's made by the same manufacturer).

 

I'm hoping to give it a try as soon as I've finished working (which I should be doing now instead of fooling about with slot cars :P).

 

I'm going to try it on some Carrera curves first and might experiment with it on some tyres.

 

I know you can get it here, but it isn't cheap. To buy a gallon (3.78L) it is $110 Aud and here a ~400ml is $30. that is twice the cost.

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Just discovered our local 3D shop has Rustoleum magnetic paint (I think it's primer only) for $46 per litre (only comes in litres). Getting more like it might be worth experimenting with.


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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Just bought some magnetic paint and will try it on a test piece tonight.

 

I reckon it'd need 4 or 5 coats to get to a reasonable level of attraction so I'm thinking of just applying it in 50 mm strips each side of the slot. Cars swing between 60 and 80 mm before hitting the limits of the guides so I'm hoping it will actually be a better mag track than plastic and steel, with the cars able to slide wider before deslotting and so be easier to catch. I'll soon know!!

 

It's a dark grey primer and meant to be over coated so it'll be easy to touch up when it's finished. Then I'm intending to spray a couple of coats of clear Super Grip (Plasti Dip) on top after I've re-taped the track.

 

I hope to end up with the best of both worlds, good grip for non mag and something at least approaching Carrera for magnets.

 

Stay tuned...


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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Magnetic paint progress report

I'm applying it using a cheap pad to a 200 mm (approx) length of Balsa, 30 minutes between coats. I'm using a standard Scaley bar neo magnet and an SCX Renault Alpine (drool :clap:) as test pieces.

 

So far, four coats and hmmmm. Nowhere near strong enough to make any difference. Could feel some effect from the test Alpine (drool :D) but not enough to lift the test piece of Balsa off the table. The bar neo directly onto the surface of the test piece will just lift it.

 

As a comparison, the Alpine (drool :lol:) will hang upside down from a piece of Carrera track. (Carrera is the least attractive, magnetically speaking, so I'm using it as the standard).

 

I'm going to leave it overnight and try another four coats in the morning and, if necessary, another four coats in the evening.

 

On the upside, application and clean up is a cinch. It's water based so it's a snack to clean the pad between coats. I stir it every time and load the pad from the stirring stick.

 

Hint: If you buy some, get the paint shop to stick it on their shaker thingy before you take it home. When I opened mine, it was a large lump of sticky thick grey stuff sitting in a tin of water and I'm pretty sure I'm only now getting a fully integrated mix to apply, which may explain the, er, crap results so far.

 

A word of warning:

Be very careful with neodymium magnets around little kids. If they swallow one, it's not too bad but if they swallow two, they will attract together in the gut with catastrophic results. Like in major surgery and loss of parts of internal organs.


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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Super Grip update

 

I tried it on a circle of Carrera curves after priming it with my favourite plastic primer, ESP (Easy Surface Prep), from 3D.

 

And I think I was bum-drummed by the guy who sold me this product (the Super Grip, not the ESP). He told me it was the same as Plastidip but, an hour or so after applying it, it still feels like the super-sticky coating you get on trouser hangers from the dry cleaners.

 

I think my treated Carrera curves will turn out to be the stickiest track pieces in history but I'm not sure how long they'll stay that way. I used my Revell 220 SE Benz as a test (because it's by far the slipperiest car in my collection) and it stuck so well in a preliminary static test that I'm busting to see how it goes tomorrow when the Super Grip is fully cured and I can set a test track up. Even so, I'm sure this stuff is way too sticky and way too temporary (it might prove to be a balltearer of a tyre conditioner though... I'll let you know:P).

 

So, at the moment, it looks like another 30 bucks for proper Plastidip...


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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Hey Chilla, one question and one bit of info for you buddy

 

1. The Rustolium, is that a regular line at 3D or was it left over stock? I know Dulux used to have a magnetic primer but they stopped making it years ago, I thought it may have been left over stock? Whilst I'm talking magnetic paint, Someone a Resene suggested that one of the reasons Dulux dumped it from their line was that it wasn't that effective. It was also suggested that magnets had no problems sticking to their (Resene) product. But It was also mentioned that it was very important to top coat the paint as it rusts. Pretty good indication that it has a heavy ferris content. Perhaps you should have got the shop to shake that baby up good and proper to mix the material thoroughly in the paint.

 

2. I did a (canImentiongooglehere?) search for Plasti dip AU to find a local outlet for plastidip. This stuff is made from rubber and can be applied with a brush or spray and tinted for different colours. Now a rubberised track surface has to have grip don't it?

Edited by ozquad44

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Ozquad, as far as I know, 3D stock Rustoleum magnetic on an ongoing basis. The guy at the shop told me he couldn't understand why Dulux got out of it.

 

I got the impression from the guy at 3D that the Rustoleum version didn't rust but who knows. Some of my Scaley Sport track is showing signs of corrosion in an environment (Canberra) not usually associated with such effects. He also stated that, given enough coats, it would end up with the same magnetive attractiveness as any other ferous substrate. Needless to say, I remain sceptical.

 

On Super Grip, I've sprayed a circle of Carrera with Super Grip, a product I was led to believe was Plastidip by another name by one of the local retailers. I think he was, erm, at the least, misled. I look forward to experimenting with it as a tyre conditioner but am fairly confident that it is crap as a long term track surface. I'm still looking at real Plastidip as a track surface.


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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Hey guys, me the Plasti Dip guy here again.

 

Sorry, I wish I had seen these posts sooner.

 

According to Myron, he did his experimenting with clear plasti dip roller over his latex track. The grip was great and he thought he had found the answer. That is, until the plasti dip started to come off the latex. I caution folks not to put it over existing paint, based upon this information.

 

One guy here in the states told me he overcoated his plastic track with plastidip and loves it. He says it stuck well. I am a little worried about things sticking to plastic, I am just passing on his comments.

 

On my track I masked the copper tape area to leave it bare MDF. Also, the sides of the track where scale senery, hot glue, diluted wood glue, scenic stickum etc. may reside, just in case those products do not bond to plasti dip.

 

I have no experience with other products made by Plasti Dip corporation, but if they sold you something that can be sprayed out of a can, it likely is a different material. Plasti dip comes out a bit thicker than good latex paint. I rolled it on which left a slight texture to the surface. It is not super glossy, but not as flat as a flat paint. It is more than scale enough to suit me.

 

As to is it fragile ?

 

No way, the stuff when down is like iron. I am telling you, if you ever had to try to peel up masking tape, get it to tear etc. you would see, it is extremely tough. I think it's wear properties will exceed that of paint. consider, if latex is coming off on your tires, then it is losing something. nothing comes off this surface.

 

My track has been raced on for about 8 months. Myrons track has been raced on for years and other than some rubber layed down in the corners, it looks like it was coated yesterday.

 

I think a very likely and more available alternative worth pursuing is the "Clorobarp" that David in Spain used. It sounds like it has similar properties, but is a commercial roofing material, I think, my spanish is not good enough to know for sure. If we can figure out what Clorobarp is, it is probably sold under different names all over the world.

 

Someone said, "can I bring it on a plane". Sure, if it's your own plane. :clap: I am pretty sure you could not take it on a airline, checked or otherwise. I had trouble finding a distributor that would ship it. That doesnt make sense to me, how did they get it ??? I am sure it exists down there on someone's shelf.

 

I dont know about coloring it. I bought black and white just poured some of each into my rolling pan and stirred it there. It came out very consistent in color and I really didnt care as roads are never one color. I use a colorant or my urethane tires that is extremely concentrated. It could probably be used to color white to arrive at a grey. Since I estimated two gallons or my track, I just bought one of black and one of white.

 

The instructions say it can be sprayed and brushed, but caution not to roll it. So, I rolled it. :D I think their fear is static from the roller, dont really know. Rolling is the only way to go in my opinion. When you first put roller to MDF it feels oily, and feels like it wont cover. Just keep rolling, it does cover great. The fumes are a killer, do it in WELL ventilated conditions. when dry, no fumes at all and not flammable.

 

My track was covered in one coat only. It tacks pretty fast, so you cannot even go back over a area to lay some more on. One coat and done.

 

I know, I sound like a plasti dip salesman. I am very happy (ecstatic) that I went with this material. I wont say it is as easy as rolling on paint, it's not. Mainly the need to mask off the tape area. Do overs, I would lay the copper and then with painters masking tape, cover up the copper, roll on the plasti dip. Do a small section, pull the tape up while it's wet. That would have been way easier. Also, i would consider sealing the slot and tape area with clear urethane somehow, or for those wanting colores slots, this would be the way to go.

 

I have had guest racers who regularly race on painted with abrasive, plastic, painted plastic, enamel and latex routed tracks. They all feel this surface gives the best, most consistent grip.

 

I am working on my web site. I hope to have a track build section up soon with tons of pictures. My web site is www.pretzelcityspeedway.com It is partially active only, a work in progress.

 

This is a very worthwhile forum, it takes a lot of work and money to get a track ready to paint. Nice to have this wealth of information to pull from when making that fateful decision on what surface to lay down. No one surface is going to please us all, so good to know what is out there.

 

The trip is expensive for most of you, but the racing is free on my track if you want to test it out !!!!

 

John

Pretzel City Speedway

Freeport IL USA

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Well fellas, I've been down to the local boat shop today and picked up a pressure pack can of Plastidip, 24 bucks later and I'm about to paint.

 

Going out to spray the MDF section of track now. It's currently painted with one coat of MDF primer/sealer, which is unfortunate, but being that it is an undercoat designed for MDF, I'm hoping that the Plastidip will bond to it without any dramas.

 

I'll keep you posted.

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Well fellas, I've been down to the local boat shop today and picked up a pressure pack can of Plastidip, 24 bucks later and I'm about to paint.

 

Going out to spray the MDF section of track now. It's currently painted with one coat of MDF primer/sealer, which is unfortunate, but being that it is an undercoat designed for MDF, I'm hoping that the Plastidip will bond to it without any dramas.

 

I'll keep you posted.

 

For anyone that's interested here's the link to Myrons plastidip track that Jonnyfly41 refers to

 

http://www.oldslotracer.com/Myron2.html

 

Plastidip puts out another product called HCF, a flexible water based plastic coating for wood, metal and plastic, comes in eight colours including grey, might be another possibility. Smallest container you can get is 3.78L so works out a bit expensive to try if it doesn’t do the job.

 

http://www.plastidip.net.au/index.php?modu...7875515625-6910

 

Phil

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The instructions say it can be sprayed and brushed, but caution not to roll it. So, I rolled it. :D I think their fear is static from the roller, dont really know. Rolling is the only way to go in my opinion. When you first put roller to MDF it feels oily, and feels like it wont cover. Just keep rolling, it does cover great. The fumes are a killer, do it in WELL ventilated conditions. when dry, no fumes at all and not flammable.

 

My track was covered in one coat only. It tacks pretty fast, so you cannot even go back over a area to lay some more on. One coat and done.

 

John

Pretzel City Speedway

Freeport IL USA

 

 

So no undercoat / primer then? Just straight onto the raw MDF?

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Plastidip and magnetic paint update.

 

I'm up to ten coats with the Rustoleum magnetic paint and the test Alpine will stick to it nearly vertical so I'm going to go ahead with magnetising the curves on my woody Nascar. I'll probably go to 12 coats. It won't be as aggressive as the steel rails on set track but I'm hoping that will be an advantage. Also, the fact that the whole track is magnet-attractive rather than a thin strip in the middle should be interesting. It's gonna take a while to do it though, two days just to apply the magnet paint, then paint it all and re-tape and re-wire. Still, I reckon it'll be worth it.

 

It's making me think of laminating MDF with a thin layer of some sort of ferous sheet and routing a full metal jacket track. It'd be a cinch to electrify, just mask around the slot and paint the rest, wire it up and away you go :D .

 

I removed all the Supergrip from my Carrera track pieces and resprayed them with one coat of Plastidip. Haven't run anything on it yet but it sure feels a lot grippier when pushing the test Benz across it. It seems to stick pretty well. I used ESP primer (bought it from from 3D) and removing the film of Super Grip probably cleaned the surface very well. I'll be coating all my Scaley and Carrera curves with it.

 

I'm yet to experiment with Super Grip on tyres but I'm confidant of success. That stuff is super sticky.


Cheers,

Charles

 

"all I want for my birthdy is another birthdy" Ian Dury...bless 'im.

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Thanks for the progress reports chilla -

 

How thick are the ten coats? - I am wondering if this would be an option to repaint parts of my track. From all the discussion I have picked up on in other threads I am thinking I don't necessarily want magnets for grip but rather for downforce - to hold the car on the track and stop them bouncing around. Maybe this will provide a little extra downforce??? I think I have enough grip on my track with silicones or urethane tyres but with some cars it is the hopping which bothers me.. (eg my Carrera D Type Jag)

 

cheers

DM

 

PS what is Super Grip?

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I thought I would throw a spanner in the works for you guys....

 

I got a sample of a new low sheen bathroom paint from Bunnings today and put it on a peice of MDF and laid the copper tape as a test track.

 

at first it was no different to my track surface but after a few laps I found that as it started to rubber up the cars started to axle tramp as in had too much grip??? :D

I moved the weight back over the axle a bit and it is better :D , this was all on MJK tires so I put the original scaley ones back on (new, never run) and it is really good with a slight amount of controlable slide in the corners. :clap:

 

Now with the MJK's back on and a bit more tuning I reacon this is as good as a track surface can get (Ferrodor aside), it would be as good as my 1/28 Plafit/Kyosho hard body on foam at the club track.

 

:clap:

Edited by Paul NZ

Paul NZ - Scale with Detail!

 

Narangba Club Local

 

Gold Coast Raceway 09

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it started to rubber up the cars started to axle tramp as in had too much grip???

 

Hi Paul can you describe axle tramp? (no post about those pics that appear in car mags either :D)

 

I wonder if it is the same thing some of my cars suffer from time to time :D

cheers

DM

Edited by dangermouse

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Axle tramp is the wheels basically bouncing as the weight is shifted from one side to another, the car vibrates as it accelerates and is just as bad as wheel spin because you dont have drive from the wheels.


Paul NZ - Scale with Detail!

 

Narangba Club Local

 

Gold Coast Raceway 09

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yep I get that occasionally - bit of a pain in the neck that one - thought it might have been caused by out of true tyres or too much grip -

 

thanks

DM

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