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Nzpr - New Zealand Proxy Race

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Mark, where did you get your answer for this question from?
Also, with the ninco cars, can the "white pro race" bodies be used, instead of stripping the paint off the RTR one so it can be painted??

No, the lexan bodies are not a body that came on any of the approved cars.

I've had the OK to use the "ninco pro race white body" from steve.

p.s. they are not lexan bodies, they look like they are made from styrine plastic, but do come with the lexan interior.

i say no to the SlotIt F40, it wasn't released when entries were accepted.

(even though i'm not in the podded group)

 

I was going to mention that it might be a good idea to run a different class of car (from the DUPR) for the NZPR, that way we wont end up with a one make series when people find out which is the car to race by looking at whats winning in the DUPR.

 

 

Well I don't know when he changed his mind as it is not in the thread, but Steve originally said no to that body, and I am saying no.

Steve never said no to the "pro race" body, only the chassis, but if it's not allowed in NZPR, thats fine, but better to find out now than after cars have been sent.

Very simply

1) those bodies create a definite technical advantage over the standard bodies, that's why they were created by Ninco.

2) There are only a few around, not available to everyone.

3) Several other things with similar situations have already received a no answer.

4) I do not think think going up-spec to racing bodies etc creates the sort of direction I think we want for this proxy, now, or going forward in future years. ie, we need some "caps" or the sky will be the limit, and we move too far towards "cheque-book racing" end of the continuum.

Then you would also need to ban the "Fly racing bodies" on that basis.

Plus any other "Pro Race" or "Fly Racing" parts?

Note: 1.2.3 Body/chassis combination must be as supplied by manufacturer. i.e. No swapping of bodies and chassis between models or manufacturers

Putting a "Pro race" ninco body for a Lambo, onto a Lambo (eg only) chassis is not swapping between models or manufacturers.

(the "pro race" ninco white bodies are the only replacement bodies you can get for ninco, and come out of the same molds as the RTR bodies)

 

 

For those saying "different class", please re-read the very first post in this thread; and the 14th post. - Set in stone for very good reasons, otherwise I wouldn't have birthed the event. "big picture" needed on this - the long term development of proxy racing in NZ, and overall in Australasia.

 

BTW, what is winning in the DUPR might

a ) not be winnng later after running on different tracks and

b ) neither might be winning on the NZ tracks with different surfaces and

c ) different people might be winning based on ability to set up cars for different sorts of track

Those dont however negate the solid reasons I set up this series for the same class of car, same rules as Oz.

This was only a sugestion, as it would be very easy to use these rules for any class.

personally, i'm not fussed what i race.

 

 

As for "cheque book racing", i think most guys will spend more on getting their chosen cars "race ready" than the cost of a n.s.r. mosler (for eg) which i'm told is "race ready" out of the box.

Edited by espsix

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The Auckland race group I am in contact with; have confirmed they will host a round of the NZPR.

Mike will get track pics to me in a few days; to go with the track data he has given me tonight.

 

I will add that to the earlier post with track details.


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I dont really care about the f40 weather it is in or not. Part of me though says to not let it in as it wasnt available when the rules were made. When released it may be an absolute gun. Better than the mclaren. Who knows? But either way I dont really care.


Thanks

Greg

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not entered in the podded class but I would allow the slot-it F40 run it will still need a fair amount of fettling to compete and isn't this what its all about ?? at the moment my non podded car for the dupr is quicker around my track than any of my slot-its.new record 10.27

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Hi folks

 

some updates

 

  • The full Australian entry list is now updated on page one of the thread
  • Host track number three confirmed as Orakei Raceway - specs and pictures added on the host tracks post on page one of this thread, including the host;s comments.
  • The Slot.it Ferrari F40 will be allowed.
     
  • I do not have ANY feedback on the 1.6mm clearance ......anyone have issues. We CAN measure it accurately, my "scrutineer" has made up a 1.6mm testing plate. But at this early stage, I am still prepared to consider a smaller clearance, given the issue of MJK tyre max diameters versus the diameter of Slot.it and Ninco spur gears.


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This is probably why you aren't getting any feedback on the 1.6 clearance.

I am the event instigator, the rules committee, the "muscle" enforcer and everything else. I just think it will run quicker, easier and smoother first time up if we keep the committee to a small number [one].

I got the impression that you didn't want anyone questioning your rules? :P

 

just tell us how you want it, and it will be done. :huh:

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Mark,

 

The last track that as been added state's the (slot depth ) is 4.6 mm is this correct, and will a Ninco pro race guide fit?

Edited by Davnic74

Regard's

David

 

Team Phoenix

 

4 x Australian National Champion.

 

Premier Raceway Build

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Brett, you seem to have done a very good job of questioning, re-questioning and re-visiting something I actually said WAS fixed in stone (the Ninco white race bodies)

and which had already covered this in at least 3 posts from the DUPR with italic comments – most of which were directly from that thread. I said No, and did the courtesy of outlining some reasons why; but you felt you needed to question my decision making…… THAT sort of questioning of actual DECISIONS is exactly what I don’t want to have to debate all the time. I do not want the stress, I do not want the waste of time, which is why I simply stopped responding to your previous postings on the subject.

 

The 1.6mm clearance on the other hand, I had specifically asked for input on the subject.

See my original posting copied below.

 

- Actually, chrisw has offered to do the initial scrutineer on all cars, he is our best car builder - being also involved in group racing at national level. He has also already made up a 1.6mm gauge for this purpose.

- NB: The NZPR is only 4 rounds, 3 of those rounds are likely to be on tracks which gives almost zero tyre wear; and the 4th, hopefully, will be a track with a sanded chalkboard type surface; so tyre wear is unlikely to become an issue at all. A car setup at 1.7mm is likely to finish up at 1.65mm more-or-less!!

- I DO HAVE SOME LINGERING CONCERN ABOUT ACHIEVING THE 1.6MM CLEARANCE THOUGH, AS FOR INSTANCE A SLOT.IT 18mm SPUR GEAR AND 21mm MJK4205 TYRES ON NINCO OR SLOT.IT 17 HUBS, GIVES A THEORETICAL GEAR CLEARANCE OF 1.5mm. - ( ACTUALLY ABOUT 1.7 ON MINE, AS THE TYRES STRETCH OVER THE HUBS) THEREFORE I WOULD LIKE SOME QUICK FEEDBACK ON THIS POINT!

Chrisw already built his car (always a man in a hurry), and he measured his at just over 1.6mm JUST

- Also thinking; angle-winder and sidewinder spurs are close to the wheel, as opposed to crowns midway between the wheels, therefore it is LESS likely for these spur gears to be able to come in contact with a track than a crown gear, for which the diameter is smaller, and often do not protrude below the chassis anyway. At this early stage, before too many people embark on their builds, I am open to butchering this one rule if it makes practical, common sense.

 

You seem to feel a need to debate, correct, nitpick, and somehow manage to interpret what is clear to other people in shades of grey on a regular basis.

 

So feel free to ask constructive questions, but desist from telling me what you think I am doing wrong, or reopening and debating areas already covered.


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Hi Dave

 

I am actually going to check that slot depth which Mike gave me, it seems exceptionally shallow - SCX and Scaley classic are 5.5......

I would have expected Ninco pro-race guides to bottom out if the slot depth was only 4.6mm

 

Let me get back to all on that actual number, but Mike did say in the email of data to me

"Ninco pro guides are fine as are the std guides that come with slot.it cars."


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Brett, you seem to have done a very good job of questioning, re-questioning and re-visiting something I actually said WAS fixed in stone (the Ninco white race bodies)

and which had already covered this in at least 3 posts from the DUPR with italic comments …quot; most of which were directly from that thread. I said No, and did the courtesy of outlining some reasons why; but you felt you needed to question my decision making…… THAT sort of questioning of actual DECISIONS is exactly what I don’t want to have to debate all the time. I do not want the stress, I do not want the waste of time, which is why I simply stopped responding to your previous postings on the subject.

Mark, your quote

Also, with the ninco cars, can the "white pro race" bodies be used, instead of stripping the paint off the RTR one so it can be painted??

No, the lexan bodies are not a body that came on any of the approved cars.

was the first i knew that the "white pro race" bodies were not allowed, ( i had been given the ok to use them by Steve in a phone conversation i had with him) hence why i asked where you got your answer from.

so i don't think i was

questioning, re-questioning and re-visiting something I actually said WAS fixed in stone (the Ninco white race bodies)

But having said all that, even though i disagree with your reasons and decision i also said this

but if it's not allowed in NZPR, thats fine, but better to find out now than after cars have been sent.

 

 

As for this

You seem to feel a need to debate, correct, nitpick, and somehow manage to interpret what is clear to other people in shades of grey on a regular basis.

If i need to ask a question, to get it straight in my mind (Not yours or anyone elses) i'll ask it as many times as i need , if that is to hard, or to much trouble for you, you may withdraw my entry, but as i've said before, in this, and the DUPR thread, i will abide by what ever rules are set, if a decision goes against a question i ask, THATS FINE!!!

 

I would like to be able to send my car over to you knowing 100% that it complies with the rules, it's a long way to come back if it's wrong!!!!!

 

Oh, i would like you to show me where i've told you what you are doing wrong? :huh:

 

 

 

No more questions will be asked!!!!!!! :P

Edited by espsix

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Hi espsix and any other Australian guys. I am Chris Wong a forum "virgin" so excuse me if I seem stupid. Mark has asked me to assist with the scrutineering only only because I have had my cars scrutineered along very similar lines for my 1/24th racing, which has been the main focus of my slot car racing. I have also had some dealings with full size scrutineering from my car/motorbike race days. Other than that I am open to any help I can get!

 

These DUPR rules are so similar to the NZ 1/24th and 1/32 metal chassis rules it is spooky. I can only assume that the same things make both types of car go faster! As for the ground clearance and width regs I will describe how I was intending to do it as we in Kiwi land do it in metal chassis racing anyway.

 

Ground clearance: Car placed on a set up board, 1/16th wire "feeler gauge" passed under the car as far forward as the rear axle, under the gear and the rear of the "pans" (sorry not sure what you would call them on a hard body car). If the car lifts and we see daylight tween back tyres and the set up board you are f....d!

 

Width: As one of you guys rightly pointed out the track is the performance enhancing thing so I would run some digital verniers across the rear tyres. I squeeze them together so the verniers are snug but not deforming the tyres. I could aqueeze real hard if a $50AUD note is sellotaped to the car :P The 64mm is tha same measurement as the 1/32 metal chassis rules so it might be an old universal figure that came from god knows where. Personally if some obscure air scoop/wing mirror or something extended a little past that I would not care as I cannot see it giving the person any advantage but, owner must not winge when it is ripped off being nurfed by my car as it goes past :huh:

 

Hope this helps, but hey if you guys do it differently I am all ears!

 

Cheers,

 

Chris

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G'day Chris and welcome..

 

That all sound's fine, any height checking is done the same way here too, same with the width issue basically as long as the wheel's, tyre's are within the 64mm max then it's fine..


Regard's

David

 

Team Phoenix

 

4 x Australian National Champion.

 

Premier Raceway Build

Gallery Raceway Build.

Heany Park Raceway Build

 

 

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FINALLY got him onto a forum. Chris might be a forum virgin, but he's also over-modest - He has this "nasty knack" of taking a car identical to everyone else's waving his hands above it twice, muttering "screamer" and when it goes back on the track it is 3/10ths faster than every other beggar's car.

 

Totally depressing to get lapped a minute into a heat when your car is running the best it ever has. ..... fortunately he has broad shoulders for all the obvious verbal he cops and takes in good humour. His track is the flash 4 lane NPSR one with the 2 pack surface.

 

He'll be our best local (Hawkes Bay) shot at running with you seasoned proxy builders.


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Hi again, I forgot to mention that is my track we are using, the blue shiny one so if you want need to know anything about that track please let me know and I will try to answer it as best I can. It was built to test my metal chassis 1/24th cars so doubtless has limitations when using hard body cars as it is not very technical. It uses a truck battery as a capacitor and a 16amp 13.5 volt battery conditioner/charger/power supply so that is why I cannot offer 12volts sorry. 110mm lane spacing. Surface works surprisingly well with MJK tyres but rubber has very little grip without glue. Slot is deep enough to take any commercial 1/24th or 1/32nd guide

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It uses a truck battery as a capacitor and a 16amp 13.5 volt battery conditioner/charger/power supply so that is why I cannot offer 12volts sorry.

You could throw some hefty diodes in series to knock some volts off if you wanted to.

:huh:


Steve K.

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It uses a truck battery as a capacitor and a 16amp 13.5 volt battery conditioner/charger/power supply so that is why I cannot offer 12volts sorry.

You could throw some hefty diodes in series to knock some volts off if you wanted to.

:huh:

Yo Chris you d man, real men run 13 + volts, welcome to the rathouse Chris happy to have you on board thanks for putting up your track and participating. Viv

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You guys probably know this, already but if you have a slight clearance problem from the gear to the track (our metal rules state the gear must not protrude below the chassis for example) you can put your gear in your tyre truer or drill, dremel etc and just take the tips off all the teeth with a file or sandpaper etc. It sounds "hodie" but it works OK. Maybe just that 0.5mm you need! Sorry if this is obvious or won't work but I hear what you guys are saying with 19mm Slot it gears and it might help. ;)

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Mark,

 

The last track that as been added state's the (slot depth ) is 4.6 mm is this correct, and will a Ninco pro race guide fit?

 

Hi Dave - and all,

comment below from the track owner.

The slot depth is confirmed at 4.67mm.

 

I figure when you add the thickness of the braid on the guide and the thickness of the copper tape our track can handle 6 mm guides without bottoming.

 

I checked the profile of a std slot.it black guide that comes with the car - with braid it looks like there is still some clearance.

 

I note the Ninco proguide could be touching the bottom but if you are using the spring guide then probably this is allowing some movement in the guide up and down which may be minimising the effect of bottoming out


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Mark,

 

The last track that as been added state's the (slot depth ) is 4.6 mm is this correct, and will a Ninco pro race guide fit?

 

Hi Dave - and all,

comment below from the track owner.

The slot depth is confirmed at 4.67mm.

 

I figure when you add the thickness of the braid on the guide and the thickness of the copper tape our track can handle 6 mm guides without bottoming.

 

I checked the profile of a std slot.it black guide that comes with the car - with braid it looks like there is still some clearance.

 

I note the Ninco proguide could be touching the bottom but if you are using the spring guide then probably this is allowing some movement in the guide up and down which may be minimising the effect of bottoming out

 

 

Thank's Mark,

 

I will just tapper the front of the guide to be safe.

Edited by Davnic74

Regard's

David

 

Team Phoenix

 

4 x Australian National Champion.

 

Premier Raceway Build

Gallery Raceway Build.

Heany Park Raceway Build

 

 

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Time to wake the troops

 

Well, this is my non-podded proxy entry for the NZPR. - unless I build something faster in the next couple of months.

Just finished it and fixed 4 or 5 "illegal" points for scrutineering this morning. eg, over wide wheels at both ends, lack of inserts, yadda yadda, reverted to the standard interior from the lexan one. My new toy arrived, so I was able to re-true the 4 corners.

 

Now it just needs the "instruction sheet", lube, final check and I can box it and set aside until "kennedyrd" is ready to pick holes in it.......;)

Too flaming hard to repaint Nincos' I don't know what takes off that hard surface, so it stays as free advertising for the golden arch.

 

Not a usual choice of car I know, 4 post mount, high as an N.Y. skyscaper, still has the original heavy interior...... but anyways, it's a little goer, so we'll see.....at least I've built myself a benchmark to drive the more logical cars against and see how I am faring.

 

What I DIDN'T have any trouble with was clearance. You could drive a Fly truck under the chassis of these things, and the gear just clicks a 2mm drill but doesn't lift the wheel on the way through, so I have plenty of air.

 

 

proxy1.jpg

 

 

proxy2.jpg


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Hmmmm... Micky D's on a French car. That's got to be some bad omen or something evil.


"Experience is what you get just after you needed it." - Stephen Wright

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Another one ready

 

This is Devious Daves entry in non-podded. He asked me to post these on his behalf.

 

ddave1.jpg

 

ddave2.jpg

 

ddave3.jpg


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