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Another trick is to put the screw thread first into a drill chuck, spin it up and use a dremel cut off disc to remove the ~2mm of thread...

 

I've done this on a few cars and it does work... But it does take much longer than the drill out the chassis hole trick...

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If it is a Scalextric Nascar leave the body screws out all together! The roll cage will hold the body on. Oops did i say that :o


Outside the box looking in.

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You don't own stuff: Stuff owns you!

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Having a cold drink on hot day with a few friends is nice, but having a hot friend on a cold night after a few drinks - PRICELESS.

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Round wheels

 

I have a piece of MDF about 900 long by 200 wide. Every time I true tyres I set this board up at about 10deg angle and place the trued axle assembly square on the high end of it. I let it roll down the board and if it goes in a straight line I know I've got the tyres the same diameter. If it rolls off to one side it must be like an ice cream cone so I know I've got a bit more to do.

Edited by Wobble
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bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Nail polish for bushes that spin in the chassis where super glue might be more permanent than you want. Cheap is good, wicks in easily, is dry in a few minutes and cleans off bushes easily if axle needs to be removed. A coloured polish is best if you want to see where you've put it.

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bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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I tried aluminium self adhesive tape for the headlights before gluing lens' in with canopy glue

 

752c4f65-0758-4755-81d0-6b3f8674cca8_zps4oa7zeby.jpg

 

not as clear as I'd like as I muffed the lens' with overspray and had to sand them with 1000 grit wet and dry

 

b87cbfa3-8954-4d50-b11e-ae4423a0d27d_zpshf7gzhg9.jpg


bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Wobble

I thing the cheapest trick I can see on your Toyota

Is the black texta to colour the grill in 😟

Something I would do just quietly 😉

Rossko

 

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Not sure if this has been done before, more than likely has.

 

I had an empty Slot.it case and noticed that you could put the base on the cover like a podium.

So cut out a section, laid some copper tape and PVA'd cover to base and added a 9V battery.

A bit of sponge in the hole and a bit of water / shellite / electrical cleaner and VOILA!! one tyre cleaner.

 

Works well.

 

20160604163126-e7348df7-me.jpg

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Cheers Grant

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Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

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I used to just do this.

 

 

 

But modified it so its less prone to bending shafts.

 

RM-Pinion-Insatller-13.jpg

 

RM-Pinion-Insatller-14.jpg

 

I like this idea so I thought I would give it a try. My pliers wouldn't open far enough to drill from the flat serrated inside so I thought I would drill from the curved outside. Got my marker out to draw centrelines etc. Put the pliers in the vice and went to mark the hole position with a centre punch.

 

Wacked the centrepuch with a hammer and blunted the end. :angry: My pliers must be better spec? :o:lol:

Edited by FLY in the wall

Outside the box looking in.

------------------------------------

You don't own stuff: Stuff owns you!

------------------------------------

Having a cold drink on hot day with a few friends is nice, but having a hot friend on a cold night after a few drinks - PRICELESS.

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Hiya,

 

See the holed one has been heated. [discolored]

See the pivot bolt comes out, allowing drilling from clamp side.


...............Take it easy

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Bushings sloppy in the chassis?? Wrap the bushing with a thin length of PTFE thread tape.

 

A bit fiddly but works very well. You need a cutting board and an Exacto knife to make some thin strips about 120mm long. 60mm per bushing. Then simply snap the bushing in as usual.

 

Not my idea.


Outside the box looking in.

------------------------------------

You don't own stuff: Stuff owns you!

------------------------------------

Having a cold drink on hot day with a few friends is nice, but having a hot friend on a cold night after a few drinks - PRICELESS.

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Bushings sloppy in the chassis?? Wrap the bushing with a thin length of PTFE thread tape.

 

A bit fiddly but works very well. You need a cutting board and an Exacto knife to make some thin strips about 120mm long. 60mm per bushing. Then simply snap the bushing in as usual.

 

Not my idea.

 

But bushings SHOULD be sloppy in the chassis to start with - eg on Scaley or Fly or Ninco. If they aren't I file until they are.

Then you set the ride height with some gapping shims under the chassis, bushings square on (not twisted), then you glue them in place.

 

Surely the better way to set up collar bushings.


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For those of you who play with scenery but fall over when they see the price of a bag of "grass" at between $9 and $14, I've purchased a couple of florists blocks instead.

These are the green foam squares florists use in flower arrangements.

I use a fine cheese grater to mince them into grass.

1 square yields about 1 litre of grass (half an ice cream container) or about 4 bags worth.

Looks exactly the same as the Woodland Scenics though the blocks only come in one colour.

Cost? About $2 a block from Spotlight.

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A wise man once said... "Its not the mistakes you make , its how you respond to them that matters."

(It wasn't me)

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Bushings sloppy in the chassis?? Wrap the bushing with a thin length of PTFE thread tape.

 

A bit fiddly but works very well. You need a cutting board and an Exacto knife to make some thin strips about 120mm long. 60mm per bushing. Then simply snap the bushing in as usual.

 

Not my idea.

 

But bushings SHOULD be sloppy in the chassis to start with - eg on Scaley or Fly or Ninco. If they aren't I file until they are.

Then you set the ride height with some gapping shims under the chassis, bushings square on (not twisted), then you glue them in place.

 

Surely the better way to set up collar bushings.

 

I'm not setting up a race car or aligning bushings using a SCC alignment kit. I was simply optimizing two OOB Scalextric trucks with wobbly wheels. I could have glued the bushings in with nail polish or, or. but that is permanent or semi permanent at best. I read about the thread tape and thought I would try it.

Edited by FLY in the wall

Outside the box looking in.

------------------------------------

You don't own stuff: Stuff owns you!

------------------------------------

Having a cold drink on hot day with a few friends is nice, but having a hot friend on a cold night after a few drinks - PRICELESS.

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We often race older, lightly modded Scalextric cars as part of our club roster. We race no magnet on wood so getting the guide as deep in the slot as possible is key. Even with a modded front axle to lower the guide in the slot, the shallow blade depth of Scalextric guides can make it easy for cars to deslot. Here is an option to improve that issue - a very cheap alternative to buying a Slot It wood guide.

 

I started with a stock older scalextric guide and a piece of packaging plastic that had been doubled over. To reduce the final blade width, I filed each vertical side of the blade of the guide down a bit as well.

 

guide1_zpscbmkdk4f.jpg

 

I filled the inside of the folded plastic with JB Weld and slipped the guide in place...

 

guide2_zpsgjzbuvcc.jpg

 

... then I clamped the plastic in place.

 

guide3_zpspxvqfgvs.jpg

 

When it was dry, I trimmed the plastic to the same size as a Slot It wood guide. A quick sand and we are good to go :

 

guide4_zpsnexss4c5.jpg

 

I have posted this simple 'how to' before but wanted to reports that these cheap deep guides work well. I have raced one for over a year now and it's as good as the day I made it.

 

Hope this was of interest to the other cheapskates out there!

Edited by slotmadmac
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Podiums are for short people.

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Been a while since this has been added too.

 

I am lazy, especially when it comes to masking, yes I'll mask for the big stuff but the little fiddly bits I keep scoring the paint and it peels or chips away.

 

So to solve this a bit of blu-tack goes a long way, can be molded into shape and pulls off nicely.

 

20200330160457-10939f4e-me.jpg

 

20200330160507-f2ac444a-me.jpg

 

20200330161138-0012c197-me.jpg

 

I know its not perfect but that is more me, I think the process is sound.

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Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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cool idea...have you ever used Liquid Mask?....I think Parma made the stuff I used.


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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No, just searched the stuff, there are a few manufacturers, might have a look after I done my time and get out onto civvy street.

Till then ....


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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For years I've been fixing cracked body posts with styrene or brass tubing. It works fine but the various post diameters usually makes getting the right sized tube a bit tricky. Enter... irrigation tubing. Fast to cut to size and flexible enough to fit lots of different post diameters.

 

5KXMkSMl.jpg

Edited by slotmadmac
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Podiums are for short people.

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