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Johnny

Eh Slot Car

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Gees to many Puppets! Are you getting payed by them now ?

 

A body for 40.00 by itself would be good for all to choose which way they would like to go!

Who wants one of those chassis anyway with a body when you are trying to

make cars even in a class that already have had there cars set up with scratch built chassis.

 

Why not grab the body and chassis and run it as a class?

 

And SUPPORT those local clubs out there with discounts

as thats where your main buyers are in the first place

 

And where are they? Are you supplying the masses with cheap one off's Falcon?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No?

 

What's wrong with supplying the people with an alternative to what the big Co's are offering (repaints of the same old crap, calling them Ltd Editions...)?

 

These are home grown products (don't see that too often these days...) and I support them all the way.

 

Good on ya guys!

 

Will get mine as soon as I can...

 

A9X Toranas... XY Falcons... Chargers possibly... all good in my book.... the fact the EH comes with a chassis is even easier for the mugs like me!!!

 

 

My 2 bob's worth.


Cheers,

Dick

 

SCMR build thread

Woodbrook Valley build thread

 

"A Man's home is his castle, but his garage is his sanctuary!"

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Yes Knoath

Have always got cheaper cars and parts ( inc Bodies ) etc for the guys at our club!

 

There are people out there that do support clubs you know.

 

Cheers

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Have always got cheaper cars and parts ( inc Bodies ) etc for the guys at our club!

Only for the guys in your club?

Do you offer them to anyone else... or just members of your club?

At least I can buy one of the EHs without having to join a club.....

 

Thanks Falcon.

Dick


Cheers,

Dick

 

SCMR build thread

Woodbrook Valley build thread

 

"A Man's home is his castle, but his garage is his sanctuary!"

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Have always got cheaper cars and parts ( inc Bodies ) etc for the guys at our club!

Only for the guys in your club?

Do you offer them to anyone else... or just members of your club?

At least I can buy one of the EHs without having to join a club.....

 

Thanks Falcon.

Dick

 

I'm a Buyer not a manufacture of slotcars.

If i made Products, Then yes i would offer a cheaper cost to other Clubs !

 

Same as what i do for myself, If its a school etc

i give them a cheaper rate ! Called PR

 

But i'm not saying you cannot buy one of these EH's Knoath for a 110.00

not a problem at all, Enjoy it ! ( it should be good )

 

I'll wait for a Body by itself from someone else then

instead of being told i have to buy a chassis with a body i do not wish to purchase.

 

Cheers

Just my 2 cents worth

not getting into a pissing contest here

:rolleyes:

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Have always got cheaper cars and parts ( inc Bodies ) etc for the guys at our club!

Only for the guys in your club?

Do you offer them to anyone else... or just members of your club?

At least I can buy one of the EHs without having to join a club.....

 

Thanks Falcon.

Dick

 

I'm a Buyer not a manufacture of slotcars.

If i made Products, Then yes i would offer a cheaper cost to other Clubs !

 

Same as what i do for myself, If its a school etc

i give them a cheaper rate ! Called PR

 

But i'm not saying you cannot buy one of these EH's Knoath for a 110.00

not a problem at all, Enjoy it ! ( it should be good )

 

I'll wait for a Body by itself from someone else then

instead of being told i have to buy a chassis with a body i do not wish to purchase.

 

Cheers

Just my 2 cents worth

not getting into a pissing contest here

:rolleyes:


West Australian Slot Car Racing Group

web: www.waslotcarracinggroup.com

email: syd.miller@outlook.com scott.kendal@bigpond.com

mob: Syd 0413 020 421 or Chris 0435086304

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Have always got cheaper cars and parts ( inc Bodies ) etc for the guys at our club!

Only for the guys in your club?

Do you offer them to anyone else... or just members of your club?

At least I can buy one of the EHs without having to join a club.....

 

Thanks Falcon.

Dick

 

I'm a Buyer not a manufacture of slotcars.

If i made Products, Then yes i would offer a cheaper cost to other Clubs !

 

Same as what i do for myself, If its a school etc

i give them a cheaper rate ! Called PR

 

But i'm not saying you cannot buy one of these EH's Knoath for a 110.00

not a problem at all, Enjoy it ! ( it should be good )

 

I'll wait for a Body by itself from someone else then

instead of being told i have to buy a chassis with a body i do not wish to purchase.

 

Cheers

Just my 2 cents worth

not getting into a pissing contest here

:rolleyes:

I have been sitting here listening to the banter and cannot believe that you would think that $110.00 for a home grown product is over the top. The chassis is a work of art in itself plus you are gettting 4 alloy wheels ,drill blank axles ,quality tyres (something that you dont get with the mass produced cars) and you get to say to your mates "look at what I just put together" instead of "look what came out of China this week". If you put all the quality components into one of those cars I am sure the price would be comparable, plus when the axle supports on your Scalextric or Ninco (no offence to either brand ) breaks you have to buy a new chassis. Lasercut stainless steel chassis don't break. Don't bank on buying a body on it's own as they will only be availabe as a kit unless you find a resin copy as ours are made of plastic so they don't break like resin ones.If you are in a club and want to purchase several cars I will do them cheaper just email me for a price . The club members I am affilliated with did as we are running a series with them shortly Kind Regards Syd :nice:


West Australian Slot Car Racing Group

web: www.waslotcarracinggroup.com

email: syd.miller@outlook.com scott.kendal@bigpond.com

mob: Syd 0413 020 421 or Chris 0435086304

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Have always got cheaper cars and parts ( inc Bodies ) etc for the guys at our club!

Only for the guys in your club?

Do you offer them to anyone else... or just members of your club?

At least I can buy one of the EHs without having to join a club.....

 

Thanks Falcon.

Dick

 

I'm a Buyer not a manufacture of slotcars.

If i made Products, Then yes i would offer a cheaper cost to other Clubs !

 

Same as what i do for myself, If its a school etc

i give them a cheaper rate ! Called PR

 

But i'm not saying you cannot buy one of these EH's Knoath for a 110.00

not a problem at all, Enjoy it ! ( it should be good )

 

I'll wait for a Body by itself from someone else then

instead of being told i have to buy a chassis with a body i do not wish to purchase.

 

Cheers

Just my 2 cents worth

not getting into a pissing contest here

:rolleyes:

I have been sitting here listening to the banter and cannot believe that you would think that $110.00 for a home grown product is over the top. The chassis is a work of art in itself plus you are gettting 4 alloy wheels ,drill blank axles ,quality tyres (something that you dont get with the mass produced cars) and you get to say to your mates "look at what I just put together" instead of "look what came out of China this week". If you put all the quality components into one of those cars I am sure the price would be comparable, plus when the axle supports on your Scalextric or Ninco (no offence to either brand ) breaks you have to buy a new chassis. Lasercut stainless steel chassis don't break. Don't bank on buying a body on it's own as they will only be availabe as a kit unless you find a resin copy as ours are made of plastic so they don't break like resin ones.If you are in a club and want to purchase several cars I will do them cheaper just email me for a price . The club members I am affilliated with did as we are running a series with them shortly Kind Regards Syd :P

 

It is a nice looking Eh Syd.

Body looks awesome, :nice: just not interested in the Chassis with the body. :P

 

I do Hope it does well.

Cheers

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Syd: What may be the problem is not the price but that the kit as such does not fit any class's that the clubs run. Many clubs only run plastic, if we ever get a nation set of rules then it would be easy to produce a car that fits what most clubs are running.

I would run Brass or steel chassis's all the time but the majority of guys don't want to.

 

Phil


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Syd: What may be the problem is not the price but that the kit as such does not fit any class's that the clubs run. Many clubs only run plastic, if we ever get a nation set of rules then it would be easy to produce a car that fits what most clubs are running.

I would run Brass or steel chassis's all the time but the majority of guys don't want to.

 

Phil

 

That is exactly the case with our race group, I would not say club as there is no membership as such. A lot of the race groups here have their roots based in 1/32 RTR cars as it keeps regular numbers up. It is cheap and relatively easy for guys to set up a car this way. In our group I would say 30% would go down the route of brass chassis cars if possible but as 70% are happy RTR cars with minimal mods it does make it hard to justify spending the money on a whole package when only the body is used.

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Not to worried about the EH but it does look great.

 

If there are going to be XYGTHO's and Chargers made put me down for one of each thanks.


"If you tell a lie big enough and keep repeating it people will eventually come to believe it." - Joseph Goebbels

"Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results." - Albert Einstein

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The subject of a 'class car' comes up regularly when we get together.... this could be just the answer!

 

I have been sitting here listening to the banter and cannot believe that you would think that $110.00 for a home grown product is over the top. The chassis is a work of art in itself plus you are gettting 4 alloy wheels ,drill blank axles ,quality tyres (something that you dont get with the mass produced cars) and you get to say to your mates "look at what I just put together" instead of "look what came out of China this week". If you put all the quality components into one of those cars I am sure the price would be comparable, plus when the axle supports on your Scalextric or Ninco (no offence to either brand ) breaks you have to buy a new chassis. Lasercut stainless steel chassis don't break. Don't bank on buying a body on it's own as they will only be availabe as a kit unless you find a resin copy as ours are made of plastic so they don't break like resin ones.If you are in a club and want to purchase several cars I will do them cheaper just email me for a price . The club members I am affilliated with did as we are running a series with them shortly Kind Regards Syd

 

Well said Syd! :rolleyes: :nice:


Cheers,

Dick

 

SCMR build thread

Woodbrook Valley build thread

 

"A Man's home is his castle, but his garage is his sanctuary!"

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Wow thats all good fun then.

 

I used to race in a club that when we raced on friday nights, no-one minded too much what was under the cars as long as the body was "in class" some guys brought along expensive resins to race with varied chassis, others brought along cheapies with cut and shut plastic chassis others raced boxed standard. Key was everyone had some fun and we often saw cars that were not available.

 

The EH 's i hate to admit look good to me (ford rules eh) . As a layman when the cars are hooning around the track you tend not to notice the imperfections. In any case its a buyers market and if you wait long enough you always tend to get what you want.

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Syd: What may be the problem is not the price but that the kit as such does not fit any class's that the clubs run. Many clubs only run plastic, if we ever get a nation set of rules then it would be easy to produce a car that fits what most clubs are running.

I would run Brass or steel chassis's all the time but the majority of guys don't want to.

 

Phil

Ditto on that Phil , I have tried many time over the years to get a metal chassis class going amongst the slotters here in SA but generally its not been taken up , some are die hard plastic rtr people that just don't seem to think the metal chassis are as good , also generally they have never owned and raced a metal chassis . Some are blindly against metal chassis even though their breakable plastic chassis carry so much lead in them they weigh at least as much in the end anyway.

I must add here Imkouwl has designed and laser cut a metal chassis of his own and some of us did race them for a while but its dropped off ?

One of the best things about metal chassis is the bodies can be interchanged easily and the wheel base can be adjusted easily to fit practically any 1/32 body. 1 chassis can be raced in all classes under different bodies - thats cheap thrills and every racer has the same package to really even out the competition. It also makes it easy for a noobie to join in at a relatively cheap price and he / she has the same package to race with . If you wanted to break it up it can be split into motor power classes and configuration - sidewinder ,anglewinder or inline classes . If the chassis design is good from the start then aditional ballast weight is not needed. When you want to pop out a motor or axles its easy , also with a hard hit against the wall or a heavy handed marshal the chassis doesn't break off leaving the flag dangling free. The benefits are obvious with RTR nice body etc and cheap but all the guts can be switched over into a metal chassis or just build one metal chassis with all the good bits in it and attach the nice RTR body onto it. Perfect slotcar .

I suppose am biased as I started my 1/32 racing years ago using metal chassis .

Edited by BMR

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I just purchased a spirit porsche $89.00 but the wheels were so out of round i bought a set of spirit alum wheels $28.00, the crown gear was cracked another $12.00( this is a new car) i still think the car is a piece of crap. Good on you Syd for offering a quality product, I had a good look at the car Blue is putting together and I think it very good value.

Cheers Bill

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Syd: What may be the problem is not the price but that the kit as such does not fit any class's that the clubs run. Many clubs only run plastic, if we ever get a nation set of rules then it would be easy to produce a car that fits what most clubs are running.

I would run Brass or steel chassis's all the time but the majority of guys don't want to.

 

Phil

Ditto on that Phil , I have tried many time over the years to get a metal chassis class going amongst the slotters here in SA but generally its not been taken up , some are die hard plastic rtr people that just don't seem to think the metal chassis are as good , also generally they have never owned and raced a metal chassis . Some are blindly against metal chassis even though their breakable plastic chassis carry so much lead in them they weigh at least as much in the end anyway.

I must add here Imkouwl has designed and laser cut a metal chassis of his own and some of us did race them for a while but its dropped off ?

One of the best things about metal chassis is the bodies can be interchanged easily and the wheel base can be adjusted easily to fit practically any 1/32 body. 1 chassis can be raced in all classes under different bodies - thats cheap thrills and every racer has the same package to really even out the competition. It also makes it easy for a noobie to join in at a relatively cheap price and he / she has the same package to race with . If you wanted to break it up it can be split into motor power classes and configuration - sidewinder ,anglewinder or inline classes . If the chassis design is good from the start then aditional ballast weight is not needed. When you want to pop out a motor or axles its easy , also with a hard hit against the wall or a heavy handed marshal the chassis doesn't break off leaving the flag dangling free. The benefits are obvious with RTR nice body etc and cheap but all the guts can be switched over into a metal chassis or just build one metal chassis with all the good bits in it and attach the nice RTR body onto it. Perfect slotcar .

I suppose am biased as I started my 1/32 racing years ago using metal chassis .

 

I have to admit I too would prefer metal but perhaps my reactions have slowed somewhat as there is no way I could drive the things I used ( 1/32 scale with Gp 20 and the like)

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We have a 72 year old that races in the club he still has his first steam powered slot car :lol::lol::lol::D

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Syd: What may be the problem is not the price but that the kit as such does not fit any class's that the clubs run. Many clubs only run plastic, if we ever get a nation set of rules then it would be easy to produce a car that fits what most clubs are running.

I would run Brass or steel chassis's all the time but the majority of guys don't want to.

 

Phil

Ditto on that Phil , I have tried many time over the years to get a metal chassis class going amongst the slotters here in SA but generally its not been taken up , some are die hard plastic rtr people that just don't seem to think the metal chassis are as good , also generally they have never owned and raced a metal chassis . Some are blindly against metal chassis even though their breakable plastic chassis carry so much lead in them they weigh at least as much in the end anyway.

I must add here Imkouwl has designed and laser cut a metal chassis of his own and some of us did race them for a while but its dropped off ?

One of the best things about metal chassis is the bodies can be interchanged easily and the wheel base can be adjusted easily to fit practically any 1/32 body. 1 chassis can be raced in all classes under different bodies - thats cheap thrills and every racer has the same package to really even out the competition. It also makes it easy for a noobie to join in at a relatively cheap price and he / she has the same package to race with . If you wanted to break it up it can be split into motor power classes and configuration - sidewinder ,anglewinder or inline classes . If the chassis design is good from the start then aditional ballast weight is not needed. When you want to pop out a motor or axles its easy , also with a hard hit against the wall or a heavy handed marshal the chassis doesn't break off leaving the flag dangling free. The benefits are obvious with RTR nice body etc and cheap but all the guts can be switched over into a metal chassis or just build one metal chassis with all the good bits in it and attach the nice RTR body onto it. Perfect slotcar .

I suppose am biased as I started my 1/32 racing years ago using metal chassis .

I think in the past people have steered away from the the brass/metal chassis because of the quality of the bodies, unlike the sixties where you had Revell,Cox and MRRC making good quality reproductions, mainly due to fitting them to the chassis and the fragility of the body.Resin bodies have the tendency to crack and fracture and clear bodies lack the detail here we have a car that you dont even have to paint as they are available in quite a few colours ( at least 7) you just put it together and race.Mind you a clear coat over the transfers helps to keep them looking good. Sure it is another car to put in the collection but at least it is robust enough to race and will outlast all the plastic cars , so why not have J class and later on maybe a muscle car class when the Monaro , Falcon and Charger are released. It has got to be better to race something we can relate to, that handles without weights and magnets in the base to keep it on the track. :lol: Syd


West Australian Slot Car Racing Group

web: www.waslotcarracinggroup.com

email: syd.miller@outlook.com scott.kendal@bigpond.com

mob: Syd 0413 020 421 or Chris 0435086304

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Would be much easier to just sell in 2 options.

Option 1 Stand alone Bodies

Option 2 to buy as a complete running car with chassis etc.

 

Not everyone wants to start a new class just because of 1 chassis.

If you have 20 odd guys racing, Do you think all 20 are going to buy one?

No Way!

 

Like it was said before, All good things come to those who wait.

So Will have to sit back and wait for a body :lol:

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Gotta admit Syd, Falcon makes a good point for the budget concious.... and there's plenty around these days.

 

I'd love to have a go of one of these chassis... never driven a steel chassis. But it would be nice to sort a chassis, then be able to drop any body on it... Charger, Monaro, Torana, Falcon hardtop, GTHO, Group C Commodore... the list is endless.

This is of course where the plastics let us down.

 

I understand your business point of view, and I still support you and your efforts.

 

At least someone's doing something to bring us the classics.

 

Dick


Cheers,

Dick

 

SCMR build thread

Woodbrook Valley build thread

 

"A Man's home is his castle, but his garage is his sanctuary!"

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Gotta admit Syd, Falcon makes a good point for the budget concious.... and there's plenty around these days.

 

I'd love to have a go of one of these chassis... never driven a steel chassis. But it would be nice to sort a chassis, then be able to drop any body on it... Charger, Monaro, Torana, Falcon hardtop, GTHO, Group C Commodore... the list is endless.

This is of course where the plastics let us down.

 

I understand your business point of view, and I still support you and your efforts.

 

At least someone's doing something to bring us the classics.

 

Dick

Dick the chassis can be bought separately however the bodies cannot the main reason is you custom fit the chassis to the body .Once that is done only that body will clip onto that chassis because of the mounting points. That is not to say that the chassis cannot be used for any other type of mounting arrangements just MJK bodies as different cars have different widths.The chassis is quite remarkable as it can be adjusted for length and can be used as a inline or angle winder configuiration.The chassis can be bought on its own or complete with running gear (inline configuiration components) plus you have the option of different width aluminium rims for different style of cars.


West Australian Slot Car Racing Group

web: www.waslotcarracinggroup.com

email: syd.miller@outlook.com scott.kendal@bigpond.com

mob: Syd 0413 020 421 or Chris 0435086304

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Hey Syd,

 

So are you doing a Charger? If you are how far away is it? If you are doing a charger I will definately be buying more than one.

 

Thanks

Greg


Thanks

Greg

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