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Making Your Own Tyres

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How many of the tyres you guys are making fail? What's the cheapest possible 'tyre' you can make? I'm interested 'cause I figure tyres about the size of the Slot.it rears are perfect for making tyre walls. I want to make tyres cheaply to use as decoration / protection around the track (and yes I'm contemplating chaining bunches of them together with scale chain against walls as well as digging them into raised banks..

 

Eno,

 

Now that I am making my own tyres, I have heaps of old F1 rear tyres and others that you can have. How many do you want?


Graeme

~~~~~~

 

(Life is like a sewer....................What you get out of it depends on what you put into it!)

 

My Website

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Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas, I am that impressed I will start making my own tyres soon and post the results, Paul Gage has a good setup he is selling some ready to go kits with molds and urethane - the tyres are excellent - I put a pair on my SCX Ferrari 360 - which performance wise made me think I would never buy another SCX -(it was noisy, slippery on plastic and wood and slow) - it currently has the lap record on my track and is a joy to drive, gotta be the tyres :rolleyes: so check out Paul's post and look up his website :lol:

 

Having only recently return to slots I am really impressed with the difference a set of tyres can make - so for other new people out there who have looked at sets of tyres for $12 and thought 'Why do I need to buy those, my car comes with tyres?' :) - my advice is whether you go the "make your own route" or "buy some" I recommend getting a good pair of tyres for your favourite cars. They should make them go that little bit better...

 

DM

Edited by penfold

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Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas, I am that impressed I will start making my own tyres soon and post the results, Paul Gage has a good setup he is selling some ready to go kits with molds and urethane - the tyres are excellent - I put a pair on my SCX Ferrari 360 - which performance wise made me think I would never buy another SCX -(it was noisy, slippery on plastic and wood and slow) - it currently has the lap record on my track and is a joy to drive, gotta be the tyres :P so check out Paul's post and look up his website :P

 

Having only recently return to slots I am really impressed with the difference a set of tyres can make - so for other new people out there who have looked at sets of tyres for $12 and thought 'Why do I need to buy those, my car comes with tyres?' :P - my advice is whether you go the "make your own route" or "buy some" I recommend getting a good pair of tyres for your favourite cars. They should make them go that little bit better...

 

DM

 

I went and splurged on the weekend after considering all the feedback on the internet for making your own tyres. I found a place in Brisbane that sells Barnes chemicals. I used stuff called Pinkysil for the moulding. Its a pink silicon compound that comes in two parts and is equivalent to oomoo30 that some others have recommended.

I then found a product from Barnes called FS42 which is a polyurethane product that comes in two parts as well.

 

The results?

 

Well I can tell you that I have some very old cars, my favourite being a Scalextric C69 Ferrari that hasn't had good tyres for many years. I put the first batch on and this car literally morphed into a grippy try and slide my back end if u can type of car. That was pretty impressive.

Then I tried some tyres for my 1975 John Player Special and same result - excellent grip. The polyurethane seems to be reasonably soft but not sticky so its almost feels the same as the normal rubber tyres.

Next I tried making some for my brand new GT40 I recently acquired, to see any difference (brand new tyres versus home made ones) and I have to admit I can't split them. Granted the GT40 sticks like glue to the track anyway, I noticed no degradation in performance when using the home made polyurethane ones. So for me its a thumbs up for this stuff. I'll be churning these things out so I have spare tyres for years to come.

Note I was able to use the tyres 24 hours after first pouring the mixture. They say full curing time is 5-7 days, but you can demould after 12 hours. Will see how they hold up after a week of racing and curing..

 

You won't see me buying $12 tyres again...

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I have used some of GTs tyres and can highly reccommend them. I have used tried them on everything from some old GP cars right up to a Ninco Mosler. They are good on plastic or wood.

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Magnets in or out?

 

 

Careful with this one.....it will define what a lot of people will think about you! LOL!!!

 

Ahh, well I can answer that question and satisfy both camps. I run both types of cars, but I have been making the tyres specifically for the older cars that DON'T have magnets in them as their tyres are well and truly stuffed.

 

Here is a picture:

 

IMG_0502.jpg

Edited by BattleTweety

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BattleTweety,

 

Barnes also make pigments for silicone and polyurethane, that will let you tint your tyres black. A small 15ml jar will only set you back about $8, and will do hundreds of tyres, as you only need to add a tiny drop to each batch. Thats what I use on my tyres (and it can be used to tint resins too).

 

Graeme

 

Magnets in or out?

 

 

Careful with this one.....it will define what a lot of people will think about you! LOL!!!

 

Ahh, well I can answer that question and satisfy both camps. I run both types of cars, but I have been making the tyres specifically for the older cars that DON'T have magnets in them as their tyres are well and truly stuffed.

 

Here is a picture:

 


Graeme

~~~~~~

 

(Life is like a sewer....................What you get out of it depends on what you put into it!)

 

My Website

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BattleTweety,

 

Barnes also make pigments for silicone and polyurethane, that will let you tint your tyres black. A small 15ml jar will only set you back about $8, and will do hundreds of tyres, as you only need to add a tiny drop to each batch. Thats what I use on my tyres (and it can be used to tint resins too).

 

Graeme

 

I was actually thinking of food dye.. anyone got any comments on that?

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BattleTweety,

 

Barnes also make pigments for silicone and polyurethane, that will let you tint your tyres black. A small 15ml jar will only set you back about $8, and will do hundreds of tyres, as you only need to add a tiny drop to each batch. Thats what I use on my tyres (and it can be used to tint resins too).

 

Graeme

 

I was actually thinking of food dye.. anyone got any comments on that?

 

I used the food colouring last night and added blue to the yellow polyurethane and guess what.. came out green ;). Seems to have worked very well and I can't see any problems in the compound. I've been experimenting with different amounts of the two mixtures that make up the tyre mixture and it is VERY tolerant. By colour coding them now I can determine over time what mix works the best. Pink ones and blue ones coming next :)

I bought a syringe last night to squirt the mixture into the mold. If you're planning on doing this, its an absolute must to make sure the mixture gets into ALL the parts of the mold. Previously I was pushing it in with my fingers and getting some tyres that had little bubbles in them.

 

Once you get this process down pat, its very easy to churn out tyres every 12 hours.

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BattleTweety,

 

Barnes also make pigments for silicone and polyurethane, that will let you tint your tyres black. A small 15ml jar will only set you back about $8, and will do hundreds of tyres, as you only need to add a tiny drop to each batch. Thats what I use on my tyres (and it can be used to tint resins too).

 

Graeme

 

I was actually thinking of food dye.. anyone got any comments on that?

 

I used the food colouring last night and added blue to the yellow polyurethane and guess what.. came out green :). Seems to have worked very well and I can't see any problems in the compound. I've been experimenting with different amounts of the two mixtures that make up the tyre mixture and it is VERY tolerant. By colour coding them now I can determine over time what mix works the best. Pink ones and blue ones coming next :)

I bought a syringe last night to squirt the mixture into the mold. If you're planning on doing this, its an absolute must to make sure the mixture gets into ALL the parts of the mold. Previously I was pushing it in with my fingers and getting some tyres that had little bubbles in them.

 

Once you get this process down pat, its very easy to churn out tyres every 12 hours.

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Probably the Tyre issue has been beaten to death here, but what the heck.

 

I am a disciple of the Paul Gage method.

 

Not sure if it got clearly communicated, but his method uses only the Reoflex 40A urethane for both molds and tires. never a reaction that I have heard of with the stock tires when casting a mold. the urethane mold may not be as durable as a silicone one, but my guess is you can shoot 30 tires out of a mold before tossing it. Urethane is cheaper than silicone, the shot of mold release is almost free so little is used.

 

Smooth on sells a black colorant that is extremely concentrated. Molds are a natural tan color. For your tires, pour the thinner part into a small bottle and add a couple drops of colorant and you have your tire molding compound. Paul says it, and it's true, stir it thoroughly before pouring. Pot time is such that I usually mix up .75 oz of each part. By the end of a tire pouring, the material is getting thicker so a pour the more open molds last as it can flow into these more easily. I have never felt a need to use a syringe.

 

I have molded hundreds of tires, made 30 plus molds and never a bad tire. I did get lazy stirring up the material once and my molds came out like sticky lumpy oatmeal. I washed it off the OEM tires, glued them back down in a plastic cup and began again.

 

Paul's method and selection of cups for casting molds is very well researched. The most common cup for most tires is a Solo brand P050 cup. If you look at these small cups, they have a slightly raised floor. This leaves a shallow pool of material over the tire. These can be hard to find, our grocery store carries the Solo 3 oz. which have the same bottom feature. It means more material used for your molds, but still works fine.

 

Pauls kit is a great way to get started. You can go find the cups, 2 oz bottles etc. measuring cups, stir sticks, mold release etc. but for starting out on the right foot, I am glad I began with Pauls stuff.

 

I use two TINY droplettes of CA gel to spot the OEM tire to the bottom of the cup. Put the bad side of the tire down when making your mold.

 

For those not yet converted, the urethanes have great grip, seem to grealy retain the grip after laps and laps. I have heard it said that silicones need clean everything to have great grip. Guys who have used my tires like them better than silicones, PPR, Supertires.

 

I have never had any issues of tires coming out oversize or anything. some I glue on, some dont need it. I have been using a strong grade of nail polish to glue my tires on and that has worked fine.

 

www.smooth-on.com I believe is the web site of the supplier for Reo Flex.

 

Sounds like there are several paths to get to the same result. I can only say that for me, this method has produced perfect results every time and it is a lot of fun to do.

 

John

 

Pretzel City Speedway

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