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Copper Mill Raceway


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#21 Paul NZ

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Posted 04 January 2009 - 07:09 PM

Dave your track is coming along nicely, what a difference the scenery makes.
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#22 GTR XU-1

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Posted 11 January 2009 - 01:43 AM

My brother and I had a leave pass tonight from our respective better halves so we did a little bit more on the scenery.

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The glue hasnt dried yet.

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A large tree was added between the grandstand and camaro sign to fill in the gap just after the photo was taken. Spectators will be added last of all. This area is being done up as a groomed grass area for the spectators...same as in front of the toilet block and also the same will be the case for the start straight as well. I only have two grandstands but my wife has advised I need 1 more - I think she is right (as always) so I will then have two on the start straight. One on the start straight just doesnt look enough.

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The little house for the spectators!

Dave

#23 Ontheflipside

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Posted 11 January 2009 - 05:22 AM

Well done guys. Very authentic and great mix of trees.
I can't believe that I wanted to grow up

Mount Salt Panorama Track Combined Road and Rally Track built near Salt Pan Creek Padstow - Sydney

A quick build rally track

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#24 Cleveland

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Posted 11 January 2009 - 06:55 AM

Fantastic effort guys, its looking awesome.

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#25 aussieslotter

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Posted 11 January 2009 - 07:40 AM

Nice layout, nice scenery, digital, 4 lane, Ninco track surface, multilane LCs, happenin' guys! Well done.
Whereabouts are you lads located?

#26 GTR XU-1

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Posted 11 January 2009 - 10:43 AM

Perth (south of river) - WA

Which is unfotunately the other side of Aus to you. - Would have loved to be testing scorpius with you!

Iam going to soldier on with Ninco for the time being but you never know, maybe scorpius one day - it looks great

Cheers for the comments guys.

Dave

#27 GTR XU-1

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Posted 11 January 2009 - 06:31 PM

A few more shots of todays ...cough... splutter...work.

Not really worthy of posting but what the hey.

The windmill isnt quite as orange as the picture shows - more of a rust colour. The windmill is on the inside of the corner with the toilet block.

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Below..just did half of the hill. it is also ready to have the gravel trap around the outside of the corner. Nothing exciting though.

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Cheers

Dave

#28 Captain

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Posted 11 January 2009 - 06:54 PM

Dave,

That rough bitumen (charcoal ballast) on the inside of that hairpin turned out alright once you threw some dead grass in it. I'm hoping the windmill isn't that orange... cos that looks like one rusty windmill.

I reckon we go a similar treatment on the inside of the next left turn... and/or add a bit more to the inside of the existing hairpin so it's like a big paddock of that rough bitumen with a smooth circuit running through it. Kind of tie those two corners in together. Might pay to use your tripod for ur shots too bro... :)

#29 GTR XU-1

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Posted 30 January 2009 - 04:51 PM

I just sent the Ninco digital unit over to RichG (slotforum) in th UK to do the simple H mod. I trust that his electrical knowledge and soldering skills far outway mine and could only see me having to buy a new Ninco unit if I had done the soldering.

Should get it back in a couple of weeks then will be able to copper tape the track.

Word on the street is the simple H-mod is pretty good with the Ninco unit.

Dave

#30 blue95

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Posted 30 January 2009 - 05:23 PM

What does the H mod do for the unit?

#31 GTR XU-1

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Posted 30 January 2009 - 06:19 PM

Blue95,

This is my understanding given my limited electrical prowess..... I believe the H mod basically bypasses the power to the Ninco unit so that a higher current can be run through the rails with out blowing the unit. Basically significantly more current to the track. The standard Ninco unit doesnt really provide enough current to run eight cars properly....the other benefit is then less interference between drivers as they get on and off the accelerator.

The Ninco unit is still run by the standard ninco PSU and an after market one (like a D3800)is used to power the track

As I said, thats my understanding anyway.

Dave

#32 PhilR

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 08:08 AM

The simple H is a great thing Dave..You neednt have sent it to Rich to get him to install it though, must have cost a fortune in postage!
Its a simple 5 min operation only 3 wires to solder onto the board and one resistor to remove..Anyone you know with some soldering skill..say down at the local electronics repairs place..could do it for you in minutes..
Your track isnt very long and it has four lanes ,so u likely wont need any power taps, as you wont see too much load on the rails at any point..its never that far from where the power comes in on your track.
The simple h does not drop any volts under load..My track routinely sees loads of 12 amps and more on 2 lanes...and it is a long track...power tapping for me is a must
Whilst the simple h wont drop any volts at all under very high loads,when measured at the output power terminals on the unit...A long track will drop voltage significantly without power taps..copper tape will not really help with this,copper tape gives you a reliable trouble free and low maintenace rail surface..
That is because even if your track somehow had no joins at all..just unbroken track rails..the actual gauge and material (steel) that the rails are made from,is not heavy enough to take large current draw over distance without voltage drop..so to achive 0 volt drop at any point under heavy load,you have to keep supplying power at regular intervals on the circuit in a direct and shortest possible line from your power output (power taps)
Your simple h has an external adjustement for overload protection..Rich will set it so that it is unlikely to overload under normal use..If you find though that it overloads sometimes on start up with 8 cars..or too frequently from minor braid shorts,just wind up the adjustment a bit more.
Go just as high as your usage requires..If you go too high..and have a serious and long running braid
short.. it is possible to blow the chip in the offending car..
A serious braid short is where the braids are seriously mangled and twisted and an unobservant punter persists in trying to re slot the car despite the sparks and smoke coming out from under it!
A non serious braid short is just a quickie..with a losse strand of braid causin the problem.
The stock pb wont start any more than 5 standard ninco cars (with magnets) in a full throtttle start situation.
And once 5 cars are running on the track..reslot based load spikes cause it to overload frequently..
The simple h with a decent psu, copper taping the rails and fitting zener diodes in your cars to calm down the %100 brick wall brakes,are the very best mods you can make to N digital.
It turns the system from a dud into one that can easily handle heavy commercial use .
Phil

#33 GTR XU-1

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 09:25 AM

Cheers Phil,

Postage did cost a bit!!! The mod itself didnt actually look too hard in retrospect but I guess I just dont have enough faith in my workmanship when it comes to electronics. I prob could have taken the unit to an electrical mod guru and got Richard just to send the bits and pieces... But I know Richard knows what he is doing and for $60 didnt want to risk it.

I have already got the copper tape (I think it was from a guy you recommended) and know the copper tape doesnt really help with voltage drop but have read all the trouble you had with maintaining the rails with out the copper tape (I imagine the copper tape still has to be maintained but less frequently).

Just supposing I need to do run a power tap over, is it as simple as soldering two wires (one to each slot rail) from one piece of the track to another (obviously ensuring that each wire goes to the respective rail either side of the slot same as the old scalextric power taps). If so, do I only need to run one lane power tap over near a lane change (as the power travels through all the rails) or would I have to run a power tap per lane to the same area. This is all supposing that I notice a voltage drop.

I havent read about the zenner diode mod (will have a search in a second). Does this reduce the effective braking capacity of the car. If so, as all the cars are mine that will be being raced, I would be thinking that it may be best to keep the brick wall braking as I will be probably be racing with inexperienced racers like my mates and family and if it pulls the cars up quicker, then thats something I think will be best to live with (I could be wrong?).

Once again, Cheers for your comments Phil. I always find your posts very informative.

Dave

#34 blue95

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 03:45 PM

View PostPhilR, on Jan 31 2009, 09:08 AM, said:

down at the local electronics repairs place..

I may have to look into this further as I work at a local electronics place LOL.
Also have to look into the zener diodes.

#35 PhilR

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Posted 01 February 2009 - 08:03 AM

Dave,Im thinking of putting together a comprehensive list of tips and tricks for N digital users that I can post on all the forums.
It would be better to do that than keep answering questions individually..
My top tips are as follows though..
Crimp your female track joins pre assembly
Copper tape your rails.
Fit a 3.3 volt zener diode between the chip and the motor in your cars

These 3 will ge a standard system working well wit about 4 cars.. To go further..8 cars..bigger motors..club level racing etc Do This

Dick Smith D3800 psu
Rich G Simple H
Beefy power taps
Build a track that has a minimum of 14 seconds per lap so as to run cohesive 8 car races.

There are several other little things to get the best out of this system and eliminate some annoying problems also.

Gotta take some pics of how I do my power taps..But..
You need to make a few bridging taps around your circuit..That is connect right rail to right rail and left to left underneath a few straight sections..Then you can run a power tap to it and it will go direct to both lanes.. Thats how you can compensate for a bunch of cars nose to tail sucking the power out of a section of your track.
Phil

#36 GTR XU-1

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Posted 01 February 2009 - 11:26 PM

Phil,

A topic under digital for all the Ninco mods would be great.

I think Iam up to speed with all the mods you have suggested now but it would be easier for everyone if all the mods were consolidated into one topic.

Reading other posts of yours, I might give the zener diodes a go in a car to see what the difference is in feel

As far as the 14 second lap is concerned with running 8 cars - this is sort of the reason why I did 4 lane digital. I know to the digital purists who are after racing lines etc, four lanes may be not as realistic - but I think four lanes actually generate more competitive racing and the cars hopefully wont be as spread out. Not that I am trying to sell the idea to you but it maybe something you would consider in your shop. With 8 cars on four lanes, on average you will have two cars in each lane (captain obvious) therefore the racing pack is only one space (between cars) apart on average. You also have four cars vying for the lead (lead car in each lane) and if one comes off, then hopefully the second car in the que in the lane isnt that far behind.

I will be doing short 5 - 10 lap (7 secs per lap) races crash and burn style so I think it should work well. I admit for enduro type racing, then definately two lanes is the go.

Dave

#37 dangermouse

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Posted 01 February 2009 - 11:56 PM

I take it that a 4 lane track is actually 2x2 lane - ie the car in lane 4 can't cross into lane 1?

Do you find people mostly race in the middle lanes? That would be close with 8 cars in 2 lanes with the shift outside or inside to overtake.

just some late night pondering :)
cheers
DM

#38 Captain

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 10:55 AM

Dangermouse,

Dave will correct me on this, but I'm pretty sure how Dave has located his lane changes ... (Refer to pics)... If you just press the change lane button once, you can go from lane 4 to 3 or 3 to 2 or 1 to 2 or 2 to 3 etc... If you hold down the lane change button through the whole lane change section... Like down the entire straight... You go from lane 4 to 3 to 2 to 1 or 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 depending on the direction of the lane change.

It isn't really 2 x 2. Yer, there are 2 tracks side by side but lane 1 can move across to lane 2 or 3 or 4 - But there isn't a track that takes lane 4 to lane 1 directly... if you catch my drift... I'm guessing you'd have to rout that... It would be quite tricky I imagine.

On this track, I'm gussing the two middle lanes would see most of the traffic... once the field settled down a little. Turn two (windmill hairpin) looks like the outside lane could bury the boot and hang the rear of the car along the armco... might get some advantage in that (maybe)... same with the final turn on to the main straight... so there may be advantages in some outside lanes in various spots... or having said that... even some inside lanes of the more subtle corners like turn 1 could be at an advantage... Hence the beauty of the lane changes. :lol:

Edited by Captain, 02 February 2009 - 10:56 AM.


#39 GTR XU-1

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 11:18 AM

Dangermouse,

Just to add a bit to what my brother explained. At the end of the start straight there are two double cross overs side by side to accomodate any urge to change lane off the start line...so in that respect and at that part of the track, yes, you can only move from lane 1 to 2 and vice versa and lane 3 to 4 and vice versa.

However,

On the next long straight I have three single cross overs (Double cross overs werent actually produced at the time I started the track). In that straight, if you hold the button down through the three lane changers yes you can go from lane 1 to 2 to 3 and finally to 4. Same as on the next straight...it is the revers, you can go from 4 to 3 to 2 and finally to 1. You can also just shift 1 or two lanes if you dont want to make the switch the whole way across the track. Ideally now, I would change all those lane changes to doubles ...but that costs money. Long story short, a car can move into any lane on the track..not just the two individual tracks.

Dave

#40 GTR XU-1

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Posted 04 March 2009 - 11:44 PM

Been a little while with not a lot of progress.

I sent my Ninco unit over to Richard (Rich G) on slotforum.com to do the H mod and just got that back (Cheers Richard if you browse this site also. I havent hooked it up yet as I havent been down to get some cable and connectors to hook into the PSU. That has basically been holding up a bit of scenery work because I wanted to get that in before I started copper taping and my brother and I couldnt do that much more scenery because we will nedd some areas to stand on the track whilst we copper tape....biut its all full steam ahead again (By the way this would have to be one of the slowest track builds ever...maybe next to Eno!!)

Anyway a few more pics - not that much different though.

you will notice I have also got bits of Balsa between the rails at all the joints - it is a tight fit between the rails but it seems to be forcing the insulating plastic from coming together near all the joints. I havent been glueing the plastic insulation to the rail but it does seem to hold once I take the plastic out (just in case anyone has experienced the same problem with the insulating rail).

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And some tarting up of the shed whilst I waited for the H-Mod and unit ....

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