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BMR

Torana A9x Body

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At the risk of hijacking this thread away from

the original torana (which really has made my christmas).

 

the revell spyder comes in at 48mm x 66mm

the monogram daytona at 52mm x 71mm and it seems

the hrs the second would be suitable at 45mm x 65mm (minimum)

 

(all measurements taken early in the morning, in the rain, with the sun in my eyes !) :lol:


"You Maniacs!.... You blew it up!.. Ah, damn you!...God damn you all to hell! "

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I don't care how it would perform. I'll BUILD a chassis for it and have one as a static in the lounge room. :lol:


Stu

 

Old racers race harder

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Hi BMR,

 

The A9X looks awesome, you can count me in for a couple as well.

 

 

regards,

 

Tony

The Torana is sitting on the bar - Xmas has held up my time for working on it . But some detail has been done around the front and side windows to form the window frames and roof gutter rail . Im aiming to make it so the glass pops in from the outside and rests on a small lip , that way it will sit where it should on a car and not buried in so deep that the windows look like there recessed in 3mm like a lot of models that have the vacuum glass put in from the inside.

I know the glass mold could be made so that it allows the glass to pop inside the body and fit so it can reach out to sit flush with the body but its a lot of extra messing about. It may still go that way ?

My main reason for fitting the glass from the outside is to allow the body "A" pillars to still be a reasonable thickness on the inside to help with the crashes that we all eventually put our cars through .?? So far the plug is on scale and looking to stay that way , a bit of filler here and there will add a miniscule amount to the thing but that may even out with shrinkage of the product ?

If anyone has a good idea about the shrinkage rates on the rubber mold and casting resin that would be a great help to me.

I will post some more pics soon.

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The shrinkage is so small it will not make any difference. So the plug should be finished scale. I usually find that the fine detail is easier to add to a resin Plug,so either di two silicone moulds OR finish the wooden plug under size and put a coat of resin over it. parts like grill and lights etc can simply be made in styrene and fitted to the wooden plug.

 

Phil


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

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The shrinkage is so small it will not make any difference. So the plug should be finished scale. I usually find that the fine detail is easier to add to a resin Plug,so either di two silicone moulds OR finish the wooden plug under size and put a coat of resin over it. parts like grill and lights etc can simply be made in styrene and fitted to the wooden plug.

 

Phil

Thanks Phil , I thought the shrinkage would be near nothing but it never hurts to ask huh.

The plug is all styrene card so as much detail as possible will be put on the plug as I can manage , then most likely the first product will get some finer detail add to it as it will be a more solid type of plug to work with.

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Thought to post the Torana plug progress and a few pics of how I have gone about making it.

It is coming along Ok I think and so far looks the part but theres a fair way to go on it. Its hard doing the details but I have tried to get a finer line around the windows by using piano wire bent to shape and glued into place . Pic below

The styrene bog tube is out for some filling around the body Quarter panel area / sides where it meets the roof line . The bonnet line where the Toranas have a raised edge is sort of coming along and the tail wing is looking Ok. The grill and headlights will test my eyesight out and Im thinking to used wire again to get some detail there and the grill itself will need a bit of styrene with a grid pattern to look right. The sides need to be shaped up some more then the Flares for the wheel arches can be made up and the bumpers can then have some wrap around bits for the sides. Tail lights will be fiddly to make as well I suspect. :nice: Its all made with styrene card and some styrene tube and a lot of patience hours n hours of patience so far . The pictures are below.

th_Toranacradleandscaleplans.jpg

My drawn up scale plans behind and base frame - cradle

th_P18-12-07_12181.jpg

Cradle with the first side layer with a initial curve to get a side shape in the body started

th_bonnetsupport.jpg

Front nose panel and some tube to support the bonnet area.

th_taillights.jpg

Rear body panel with tail light cut outs

th_grillfrontinplace.jpg

th_bonnetinplace.jpg

Grill panel and side window panels in place

th_windowsides.jpg

th_bootdeckinplace.jpg

Window sides and rear panel line

th_roofsupportframe.jpg

Roof support styrene I beam filed and bent to shape

th_roofinplace.jpg

Roof on and bonnet scoop in place with front rear window panels in place

th_secondlayerforthesidepanel.jpg

Second side panel layer with the wheel arches cut out before glueing in place

th_quarterpanelfillingandsidepanelinpl.jpg

Tail spoiler and some side filling

th_bonnetscoopbumpersinplace.jpg

View of the front bumper in place

th_frontview.jpg

Bonnet outer body lines in place Unfinished with some lead pencil lines to get a idea of the grill and front lights

th_wiredetails.jpg

Piano wire bent for window surrounds

th_wiredetail2.jpg

Front and passenger side window wire surrounds glued in place

th_wirearoundthewindowsides.jpg

Side view with pencil wheel arch cut out high lighted

 

Stay tuned for more as it comes along

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Man, anticipation levels are running high ! Thats looking real trick BMR.

 

Great work !


"You Maniacs!.... You blew it up!.. Ah, damn you!...God damn you all to hell! "

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Fly screen mesh should almost do for the grill. I use very thin aluminium sheet and a small hole punch to make headlights. They tend to have about the right amount of curve when they come out of the hole punch. The Aluminium sheet is printers plate 14 thou thick. It punches easy.

 

Phil


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Fly screen mesh should almost do for the grill. I use very thin aluminium sheet and a small hole punch to make headlights. They tend to have about the right amount of curve when they come out of the hole punch. The Aluminium sheet is printers plate 14 thou thick. It punches easy.

 

Phil

Cheers for the hint Phil , I have some alloy sheet in the shed somewhere to .....mmm just gotta find it now :D I think I have some very fine stainless steel mesh somewhere as well , all hints greatfully accepted , Im glad to say Im never to old to learn a new trick.

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you need a job BMR !!

Mind ya language there mugsy swearing at me like that is simply not called for ;)

Since you bought up the subject of Work :D I was showing the neighbours daughter the Autocad program as she was playing a Simms game with my daughter and the underlying program looks very much like its based on Autocad house design and construction , she picked up a lot of the Autocad in 1/2 an hour :o - the younger generation is gonna blow me off the field way before I wrap my old noggin around the full Autocad program , shes only 13 -14 years old . I think I better shift my study into another area - maybe cake decorating ??? or Molding chocolate cars out of Sunset Vacuum bodies :lol:

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Molding chocolate cars out of Sunset Vacuum bodies

 

This has been done! They make great chocy moulds!

 

I have used some strange thing for detailing moulds. Pop rivets for tail lights, 22 shells for head lights,wire for side trims,wheels for Chappy fans !

 

 

Phil


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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So do those 22 shells make the car as fast as a speeding bullet Phil :lol:

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Yes! but it didn't need them as it was a Ford! <_<

 

Phil

haha Ford vs Holden vs Chysler the great Aussie battle , They have all gone like a bullet or needed a bullet at one time or another over the years. Im off to buy some molding material to have a go at casting this Torana plug. fingers crossed now its all ok

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i would be quite interested in one or two casts depending on the costs :lol:


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THINGIEPHILE REBEL EXTRAORDINAIRE

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i would be quite interested in one or two casts depending on the costs :D

The cost will be as low as possible but I haven't made one yet to work out the costs .

At a guess 3-4 hundred sounds good for me :lol: No seriously folks around $20.00 plus postage may be in the ball park for the Body , glass and interior.

Imkouwl was working on making up some sized up decals for it.

I have the molding kit already so I just need to finish off the plug , make a glass mold and make a interior mold . I may need to rework the bonnet line and a few other areas a bit once the first cast is made. Im a bit reluctant to cut n shut the 1st plug to change the bonnet line just in case it goes sour.

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Id certainly be interested in one or two of these if there are enough to go around.


Regards

Rob

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