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Scorpius-wireless Digital Slot Car Project.

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Sounds good :)



Heres a few progress pics. Routing the braid recess took only 1 hour for 22 sheets.


Now onto priming both sides with Dulux 3 in 1 interior/exterior primer.

Both sides of every sheet is now primed. Next stage, designing and making the system so each sheet locks together. If done right it will be quick to wire it up as no power taps shall be required.

Ive sourced the paint, Dulux semi gloss enamel. Braid arrived also along with Peco solenoid.




















Its time to put together the flipper assemblies........













Once assembled will take only minutes per assembly to install, simply fix in place with hot glue, once cooled and tested screw in place.


Now its time to add 1/4" tin plated copper braid. Im not using double sided tape either, Im going with good old fashioned contact adhesive.

Oops I dont like the colour now, out to buy another 4 litres.....hold off on the braid.







The next stage designing and building a quick release accurate and stable track joining system. Camber designed the system and it works well.







Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.





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Hi Guys,




As you can see its a much realistic shade of grey :)




Assembling supports.

CAD drawn.

3 types

CNC machined

4 MDF parts (2 main boards, 2 feet)

4 bolts, 8 washers, 4 wing nuts, zinc plated 12mm dia.

















High, bank right.







Low, bank left







This track is modular. Its designed for quick set up and pull down. The power connections between modules will be purely based on contact.

Two quick release clamps will be emplyed underneath the track at the edges to pull the modules tight together thus making a smooth transition for the car and

for the braids to be clamped together. This saves the need for a seperate power bus for each lane (dont forget it will be for analogue use as well) and saves having

to plug and unplug each connection and of course the cost of such plugs.





Plan of how braid will conduct at each join.






Quick release adjustable clamp. Commonly used on utility trucks/utes on the tray.





Mickey Mouse joining system. Angle keeps track 100% flat across ways during use and when in storage.

Angle is fixed to track using 1/4" stainless steel 306 grade hex head countersunk bolts.






Recessing for braid 0.5 mm otherwise a 1.5 mm gap would be between each module.






Using a Makita trimmer






Now recessed






Adding radius by hand. Im using a knife then using a fine rasp to add smooth radius.






Sealing MDF with PVA glue.






Adding colours for analog racing. Purple, blue, white, grey (black)


Next task, adding braid. Im using 1/4" nickel plated magnabraid.

The best form of satisfaction is success.





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Ok before we add braid lets get the joiners in place.....



So here is one of the track joiners machined up. The tolerance is unreal. So precise you can't feel any movement yet able to be pulled apart easily. The tongue and groove was CNC machined.


One half (male):




Now male and female pieces joined together ( tongue and groove ):




As the track is modular and pulls apart in to 22 pieces, all 21 joins need to be perfect as even the slightest bump will make the cars deslot due to expected high speeds down the ten meter straight.

I'm also after something that cannot twist, warp or carry on in humid or hot conditions. It must also last 20 years. I did a timber joining system and gave the idea away.

All 21 joiners are ready to install. They will be attached to the track using 1/4" 306 stainless hex head countersunk bolts. Once installed the boards will be held together using a quick release lever system which I'll explain in due course.


Tomorrow I'm starting the painting to get the exact colour I want using a new Dulux semi gloss oil based paint just released onto the market.


Analog track timing will be Trakmate direct from the manufacturer. Thats a while off yet :)



Below a side view of the tongue and groove system in place.







Below an overall view of the sections joined and locked into position.





Space was tight so I had to come up with some ideas so I cut out some aluminium to allow the cam lever to fit in. And I wanted to attach it to the aluminium, not the MDF if possible.





More shots.






To pull the two boards together just hook it over the catch....





And push the lever down. The main purpose of cam lever devices is to pull the boards hard together so the boards obviously stay in alignment but also to ensure conductivity. There will be no jump wires or connectors from board to board. I can put two two boards together and lock in under 30 seconds.





And finally the big test. Conductivity. Setting the meter to Ohms all 8 joins came in at 0.00.







Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.





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Hi Guys,

After some thought, mainly time consideration

I've decided to use double sided tape to fix the braid into place. The company I bought the braid off now even sticks the tape to the braid for you to make it even quicker.









Ok braid generally stuck down. Time to wraps ends around the end and under. I've used contact adhesive. I tensioned the braid by grabbing the exrtreme end (I allowed a little extra braid when I laid it especially for this purpose) and strtching it as tight as I could before contacting both surfaces. Then I just used a dremel braid to cut off neat. Photo later from underneath.


Each hole was marked out on the track and drilled using a special combined drillbit/countersink tool.

The angle was clamped in position and was drilled using a normal 1/4" drill bit. The newly exposed MDF was sealed using PVA.





The male end of the board.




Female end.




Countersink hex head bolt in marine grade stainless.





I trimmed the angle to get 80mmx40mm rather than 80x80mm prior to installing. This will make it easier to transport and save space.


Next stage on this particular board will be the flippers, then block out the sides so some borders can be fitted. Im thinking of using something with Velcro attached so it can be quickly be setup and pulled down. then the quick release locking system to be installed. Wiring will be last underneath. On top will involve painting the road surface with ripple strips, run off areas, starting grid and pits. But one step at a time.




Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.





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Hi Guys,

Here's some progress photos. The first lot took a while to get the formula right. I should progress quicker on the next board.


I decided to route out channels for the wires so it would lead to a neat install and cables below surface to help prevent damage dring transit.




I gave it a re-seal underneath and then two top coats of gloss white enamel to keep the moisture out and will be easier to see things under the table.

I remounted the aluminium sections and then mounted external re-set switches to make it easy to reflash and reconfigure the Lane Brain.




I mounted the CNC machined flipper assemblies into position and added some electronics.




I then added the tinted covers for the Lane Brains to help protect them. Looks sexy hey.




I then added some protection for the flipper assemblies during transit.




Add some aluminium 1.6mm chequer plate to complete, now do the same to all the pit bays, add the relays and here's one completed.

Note the thick red and black wire pairs. These are to continue the power on the lane because when you add in a flipper the braid continuity is broken.

Because its a hybrid analogue/digital track the wiring must be seperated from lane to lane. This adds quite a bit of work to the project actually but will be worth it.





Note because it was 3 lane and require anti collision, plus the fact the entry and exit flippers are so far apart I decided to use one Lane Brain per flipper.



The best form of satisfaction is success.





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Hi Guys,


My new garage fits 2/3 of my track inside and 1/3 outside on the driveway. Total size is 13.8x4.6M. Garage is only 10.0M long. I figure on race nights with the guys over to add in around 8 track sections will take around 20 minutes.


Still a lot of wiring and fitting of flipper assemblies. Then analogue lap counting system. Then track decoration last.





Theres still 2 more straight sections on top of this straight that you cant see.




End of main straight.




Technical section.




Heading back around to beginning of main straight.





When I got to the last piece I was anxious on how it would fit. I measured 40mm which is around 2mm per track piece accuracy.





5 minutes of shuffling and bingo!



The best form of satisfaction is success.





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Hi Guys,


Ok its been a long time coming. PEARL and AC working together for the first time.


Also a total solution for single lane changers to have a fully functioning exit flipper. Moves to correct position for car, and is energised to the correct polarity.


Also a solution for 3 and more lanes while employing AC and/or PEARL.


Can be configured for XLCs with no exit flippers.


XLCs with entry and exit flippers will require 2 x LB.


Will work with Smart Car program.


Requires car firmware V8.1:

Car Decoder V8.1


Use any throttle firmware version.


Ok first the new recommended and simpler LED set up for 2, 3 and more lane tracks.

Note fully functional exit flipper with less LEDs being used.

For 3 pairs 3 Lane Brains are used.





And heres the link to the beta version.

LBV8.0 The mother of all upgrades.


So one of the tasks was to introduce a delay time 0-250mS (configurable) between entry and exit flippers.

These are the last major missing links. When all the Scorpius features are combined the system will be called "ULTIMA" by Scorpius.


Wiring diagram to follow.





Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.





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Hi Guys,

Scorpius keeps evolving. Now we have combined some existing features to give the ultimate digital driving experience. Ive named it "ULTIMA" by Scorpius Wireless.






What is ULTIMA? Ultima is when both PEARL and Anti Collision functions on the Scorpius system are used simultaneously.

I have set it up this way because some will use both, some will use just Anti Collision (AC), some will use just PEARL. (Programmable Electronically Activated Race Line).

Everyone has different needs or likes here and we have that added flexibilty.




PEARL is as mentioned programmable and able to be customised to anyones liking.

Some notes on PEARL:


1) The "Race Line" is stored on the car decoder and is 100% a function of the car. The Lane Brain (Lane changer electronics) have no role. They just do what theyre told :)


2) You can choose to use or not use PEARL.


3) You can have certain drivers use PEARL and other drivers NOT use PEARL.


4) Everyone can have their own unique PEARL. ie race line.


5) Every driver who elects to use PEARL can escape the race line at any lane changer by pushing the LC button.


6) When using in conjunction with anti collision gives exactly the same result as BLST by my good friend David Caille. It is however achieved using a totally different method.

ULTIMA is like BLST, but on steroids.


7) ULTIMA has total flexibility in every conceivable way.


8) Can work on single LCs and XLCs (2 LBS required at XLCs)


9) XLCs are not required and not really recommended, but can be used.


10) Livened flippers are standard equipment. Exit flippers can be active (move) or passive (not move) but can be livened none the less.


11) Can be utilised on hybrid analogue/digital tracks


12) Can be used bi-directionally.


13) Can be used on 2, 3, 4 or more lane tracks.


14) Does your washing up, vaccuums and more :)






How is Anti Collision configured?


AC is totally a function of the Lane Brain relying off data from the cars. LEDs are placed in the track before the lane changer. The Lane Change LED is placed around 120-200mm (distance is relative to speed) before the flipper. The AC LED is in the adjacent lane (The lane the cars change into) a further 120-200 before the LC LED.

Using the Lane Brain set up page you can configure AC and lots of other adjustable parametrs.


ie, Put the LED a fraction too far from the flipper? Easy, use delay.

Wired solenoid back to front? Easy, tick "Swap Flippers"

Using a pit lane entry, the liven flipper polarity will be set up to change lanes the other way. Need to change liven flipper polarity? Easy, just change polarity.

Want anti collision? Easy just tick the box,. Dont want it just untick.

Exit flipper opens and closes before the car passes through? Just increase the delay time.






How does Anti Collision work?


Its ultra simple. If the AC LED is noticed by a car it deactivates the lane changer for 50 milliseconds. Works every time.



How to set up PEARL?


Go into controller menu and activate "PEARL learn"

Drive around the track on YOUR prefered race line.

Put controller in PEARL "on" mode.

Thats it.

Place car on track, it will now drive your race line without using the LC button.

Want to "escape" the race line, Just press the LC button. It will change a "LC command" to non change. Likewise if its default is straight you can change lanes by activating LC button.


Neat trick for pits


Sick of missing your pit bay? Press too early or too late. Hop the car over the pit lane entry by lifting and replacing. Drive car down pit lane and teach you car to pull into your pit bay. Now back to PEARL "On". Now never miss a pit bay entry again :)


Of course a video is on the cards.

Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.





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Hi Guys.


Currently we are making it an option to from Scorpius controller to Scorpius car decoder via Scorpius dongle and PC/Laptop.


This is because we are adding simulations to our existing RMS as follows:


KERS simulation, fuel tank weight simulation, car out of fuel simulation, tyre wear simulation, weather simulation, tyre type simulation, random events simulation, DRS simulation. I call this the throttle manipulation project. To do this we must route the throttle signal via the PC. We are working on this now.


This is interesting for SSD users who want all the good gear.


By removing the SSD powerbase and using Scorpius car decoders you can have the ultimate hybrid system to date.


Check out this simplicity. Ive worked on a (for now) basic 2 car setup.


What you need:


2 Scorpius controllers

2 Scorpius car decoders

2 Scorpius dongles

1 Scorpius Race Management System

1 Scorpius Lane Brain


Assumes you have a power supply and a laptop or PC, with Win XP onwards, with 2 USB ports.


Why use Scorpius decoders and remove powerbase? Answer, simple cheap unlimited power, and with the Scorpius car decoder you can get 0-100% brakes in 1% increments, visible on the screen.


Limitation on standard SSD chip 18K motor. Limitation on Scorpius car decoder 50K motor.

Limitation on SSD APB 7042 8Amps. Limitation on Scorpius track: Limitless.






Looks simple huh? Looks are deceiving :)





Scorpius controller, car decoder and dongle.


24 car ID: An exciting car decoder update is planned where you can run 24 cars on the SSD lane chagers.




The RMS boasts way too features to list here but you download now free a trial version to see.


Once the throttle simulation programs are added it will be the most feature rich, sexy, easy to understand RMS available. We call it SRMS, short for Scorpius Race Management System.

It will have a special introductory price for SSD users only. It has an incredible amount of variants on race set ups, live to web function, 3rd party apps for Iphone and Android, a GSU or guided set up where you go through a list of questions, once completed it is perfectly configured without reading any instructions. An instruction book within the program itself, a comprehensive set of wizards on every aspect of every set up possibility, a fully custom user interface, change the screen in unlimited ways and colours, upload your own pics and sounds.

It includes SRMS Speak, where lap times are announced during practice and racing in your headphones. It is extremely stable and bug free. And excellent backup.


Write your name on the screen too. Use Quick Race, press 2 buttons and it starts. As cars cross start line all the names on the controllers automatically enter into the RMS!


Brakes configurable 0-100% and are the best of their type for SSD users in conjunction with Scorpius car decoder. It will have auto deslot detection where a yellow flag can be issued without touching or doing anything. This is because the car sends one hundred updates per second back to the PC. As soon as the PC notices data missing from a particular car ID the RMS detects a deslot immediately and reacts accordingly.


The RMS also has false start detection and a great virtual fuel system as well as yellow flag, it has red and black flag functions. To get a real feel download it for free and check it out even if you dont have any Scorpius hardware.



Throttle worlds first 2.4GHZ controller. Only controller with LCD screen. Only controller to store and retrieve up to 10 throttle curves. Only throttle with menu.

Only throttle with security function where you must enter a PIN. Simple clean layout, 3 knobs, 3 buttons. Once the throttle manipulation programs are written you will be able to activate KERS, DRS, yellow flag from the controller. Friction free hall sensor for trigger. Adjustable spring tension. Upgradeable wirelessly in 30 seconds. Works on analogue tracks with addition of our WAM (Wireless Analogue Module) which is also 50A peak or 35A continuous. It has a speed limiter button for pit lane speed like 1:1 and kiddies mode. It shows the version number on the screen too so you know if you have the latest updates. Updates are free and uploaded to wen after beta stage testing each time. It has about 30 tomes the battery life of other battery powered controllers and the batteries are internal. You can configure all the throttle curves on the controller itself or on a PC and upload to the controller. It also has a "Fastest lap times guaranteed or your money cheerfully refunded" guarantee. To date no one has claimed it. On a typical 25 metre track in analogue mode it is around 0.4 seconds per lap quicker than a standard 45 ohm Parma controller. It has a Wii strap as standard and a self calibrating function, just reflash the firmware and hey presto, perfect minimum and maximum settings. And the best bit, iits light, well balanced and even sexy, true :)


Car decoder:

30mm x15 mm or 450 sq. Worlds smallest wireless car decoder. Robust 3A power, will run 50A all day long. In tests it was run flatout on a vertical loop de loop test track for 1 hour with an NSR 50K King Motor. The motor blew up, the car decoder was in 100% shape still. It is wireless upgradeable in less than 30 seconds.

Scorpius components were the worlds first wirelessly upgradeable "toys". You will install both the LED and Scorpius sensor in the chassis.


Dongle: One for sending and one for receiving.


Lane Changer: Use your standard Scalextric lane changer, track and cars.


Costs: The controller $139 AUD or 70.00 GBP, no bits to buy or add on. One controller does SSD, Scorpius and analogue. Car decoder $34.95 or 17.50 GBP. Dongle $59 or 29.50 GBP. RMS $109 or 55.00GBP


SSD Powerbase; Not required. Pop it on Ebay.


We recommend Lane Brains for pit entry which includes a liven flipper function.

You will not be able to use SSD car decoders with this particular set up.


Power: Simply connect positive and negative to the rails. Its that easy! Want more power, add a second power supply to the rails. too easy.

Powering SSD lane changers: Simply vampire power off the rails in the correct polarity.


Lights: A light chip (wireless) is planned for late next year and will be activated via the controller.


Lapcounting: Use 1 x Scorpius Lane Brain.


The set up is simple, easy to understand, powerful as standard and extremely functional in every regard.

Only possible due to our current RMS upgrade. Stage 1 of the RMS, ie trottle to car via SRMS will be out in a week or so.

The simulations will take around 4 months.


Scorpius specialises in wireless digital slot car technology. Starter packages from $599


Includes 2 x controller, 2 x Car Decoder, 2 x Dongle, 1 X RMS, 1 x Lane Brain (Lapcounter)

We do not make or sell track, cars, power supplies or computers.




Update: Heres a preview of some of the work done so far this week.




Want to go via the PC instead of direct to car, just tick the box. Want to go direct? Just untick it.




Sneak preview of the work done on tyre simulation.

Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.





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Must say this could get me back on the digital track. :huh: pun intended


From a completely selfish perspective I hope you dont sell it off to one of those guys ... cause

the first thing they'd do is cripple it to save a few cents/pence/eurocents.


Doing it this way will no doubt mean cost moe to us who want it but we will get what we want, or closer to it anyways.


besides I doubt they would give you a decent amount, more likely just steal the ideas <img src='http://www.auslot.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':bday:' />


In hindsight how wise you are snowman especially the last paragraph, you couldn't have predicted it any better.


100% Australian owned. And 5 years in the market in July 2016 and still going strong. And nothing watered down.



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Hi Guys,

Today I'm adding the artificial grass and will continue with painting borders.

In between drying times I'm continuing to fit off the pit bay electronics and flipper assemblies.



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Great work Rick


When is the christening of your new track?





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Hi John,

Hopefully in the next few months


Few more shots while Im waiting for paint to dry. Masking tape removed.






I use 3M Fine Line tape for detailed work. Leaves a pretty clean edge.





Scorpius powered 1:24 Mini Z





The slide test at full angle to see if it fits on track .....it does.😊








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Grass looks that good Rick you'll be taking up lawn bowls soon :)

I can't believe that I wanted to grow up


Mount Salt Panorama Track Combined Road and Rally Track built near Salt Pan Creek Padstow - Sydney


A quick build rally track


2017 WRP Round 11 at Mt Salt Panorama



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Hi Guys,


Thanks fellas.

Ill come to you for lessons Mel. :)


Just backtracking a bit to show how I set up the masking. First I get a piece of 1 1/2" x 3/4" timber, pre drill holes at certain distances and place nails in each hole. I lower and raise the nails as required using a hammer. The nail at the end fits in the slot. This wider one is 18 mm for the ripple strips. I also use the same technique for the thinner white line on the outside of the track.


The ripples are spaced closer to the slot so the tyres just touch them or even ride over them like 1:1

On the outside however I place the single white line further way as in the previous post.







Below I use the outside of the board to mark lines depending on the design.




I then clean the area down with wax and grease remover so the tape sticks good.




Now its time to mask up. I use fine line tape to define the edge. Then normal masking tape.




Note the nail scrape marks are painted over.




I then give the areas to be painted a light sanding with say 280 grit just to make sure the paint grabs well. Just one or two wipes is sufficient.




Before I do the white lines and ripple strips Im going to spray green paint from a can onto the grassed areas prior to grassing.

This gives a nice green between the micro bits of grass. It seems to make a lot of difference.




I tend to use oil based paints more as I find them better quality. Out of a can it dries pretty quickly.




Ok thats a days work. I'll allow all the paint dry well overnight and keep going tomorrow.






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Hi Guys,

A little tutorial on making your own flipper assemblies for any routed digital track.


First the base board. I use 9mm MDF

The holes in each corner are oversized to 5mm to allow adjustment after installation.

The hole where the flipper rotates is 5mm also

The holes where the solenoid base plate are around 1.5mm




The brass bush, which I had machined up, is inside diameter 4mm with 0.5mm wall thickness 9mm long.

Insert into the hole by friction fit. This ensures years of use without wearing out the MDF.




File the MDF flat as it may spread a little when inserting the bush.




Next is to prepare the threaded brass rod.

I had some 50xM4 machined up.




Next prepare the flipper. I designed these off the track plan so they fit perfectly.

I had them CNC machined from 6061 grade 6mm aluminium and had the threaded M4 hole drilled 5mm deep.




Next I need to screw the rod up tight without damaging the thread. Here I use the double nut technique except I went triple to ensure it worked. I may as well put the M4 stainless steel nyloc on first in the correct orientation. I nip it up firmly then set it to the right height as this determines how high or low the flipper sits in the pocket.




As the track MDF is 12mm I set the bottom of the nyloc 11.5mm do the cars guide can never catch on it.




Next I use another bush so pressure never touches the MDF as thus could swell in damp weather making it inoperable.




Next I nip it up with another nyloc.




Next I prepare the "live flipper" wire using silicone wire so it won't affect the operation of the flipper nor work harden and break. Washer is M4 brass.




Next I nip it up with two M4 brass screws.




Next I use Peco PL10-E (E stands for extended, make sure you get this one).




Next cut off two of the six legs. Not sure why they put these here.




It just looks like this:




Next grab a packet of 2 base adaptor plates. Peco part number PL12X.

Don't get PL12, they come assembled and cost twice the price.




Looks like this once assembled.




Slide over the shaft and bend the tabs firmly using a tiny bladed screwdriver.




Should look like this:




Next cut the shaft to length. Around 20-21mm. Be careful if it's even 1mm too short it can't be rectified.

So I make a gauge up from 18mm quad and 3mm MDF laminated together.

I try 21mm and try it then file it carefully until the flipper is 11.5mm above the MDF. (Assuming the track is made from 12mm MDF).




Using hacksaw to cut.




Screw base plate to MDF making sure the orientation is such that the spring arm is such that the spring pulls the flipper so the car goes straight. So default position is "straight".




Use verniers to ensure tip is 11.5mm above MDF assuming track is made from 12mm MDF







You can move the base full left and right and mark with a pen. Then position it midway to ensure its pretty close before screwing into place.




Screw into place, solder solenoid wires in place, add spring.





Turn board over and fine tune into position. Don't forget the screw holes are oversized so you get around 2 mm per direction to adjust.






The best form of satisfaction is success.





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