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Bmr's Rally Track


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#1 BMR

    wheres the tape measure ?

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Posted 07 October 2007 - 01:26 AM

Beachside Model Raceway Heres a link to the 4 lane track rebuild http://www.auslot.co...?showtopic=4930 Rally Track

The rally track has been something I have considered building for a long time.
I started with a general idea on paper of what I wanted in the shape, by drawing it up on a cardboard sheet I could cut it out then set it up with some levels to simulate what it may look like when it was finished. I propped it up to get the levels with coins and some small wood blocks from my daughters toy box. By doing this small model I had a halfway decent idea of what may work on a 3mm MDF sheet as far as bending a flat sheet into the shape I had in mind.

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Rough drawing on the MDF template sheet of the track layout

I screwed the sheet above (template sheet) to a 6mm MDF sheet and cut out along the lines to give me two separate sheets with the track layout cut into both sheets. This template sheet is set up onto a lightweight base platform to build the rally track up over. The base platform is lightweight 6mm plywood sheet with 19mm x 42mm pine battens to stiffen it up and give me something to attach the timber supports to that will support the template sheet.

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Lightweight base platform

The base platform was put onto a table (pine battens facing upwards) to give me a decent working height and the template sheet was dropped on top and the front main straight part was screwed to the batten at the front 70mm x 19mm where I intend the controller to plug in, the main straight will be the lowest part of the track layout attached across the pine battens. There will be some parts of the track that will be attached to the base sheet so the track can drop lower in some sections to be lower than the start straight and give the layout some different elevation levels and a down hill run in some sections. The total climb of the track is only 250mm from the start straight to the top level, as I wanted a compact track that can be easily moved around by two people.
The base measures 2 metres by 1.2 metres and with a total height of the completed track and its box to be 350mm including the coverlid. The design could possibly be made to slide under a single bed in a kids bedroom with some slight alterations in height , width and length to suit the bed.
This is the 6mm MDF top sheet that has already been pre cut / copied from the template sheet and will be glued onto to the template sheet after the template sheet is attached to the base platform Hope ya followed that bit of twisted word repitition.

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6mm Top sheet pre cut to the track layout

The photo below is the template sheet with the front main straight part of the track layout screwed to the front 70mm x 19mm pine batten of the base platform. From this point I propped up the various parts of the track with bricks and boxes to get an idea of the different levels and how it will look when its finished, this also gave me an idea of how the MDF sheet will bend and form into shape. The timber uprights and battens that will be screwed between the template sheet and base platform will then support the track shape. Then the 6mm Top sheet can be glued in place. By securing the template sheet first I could set corner banking angles and put some up and downward slopes into the straights. The screws are set to avoid being anywhere near the slot although the slot is only 6mm deep , to go deeper the top sheet would need to be thicker which would have put added weight into the whole track , most rally cars have only got 6mm guide flags so I figured that will have to do. I will use liquid nails to glue the top sheet to the template sheet so there is a little extra gap between the sheets that should allow some 7mm flags to get around the track without bottoming out in the slot and lifting the braid away from the track power.

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Rough setting of the track height levels

The template sheet was attached completely to the base platform by following the direction that the slot cars will travel around the track,( the red slotcar points the way in a picture down a bit on this page. ) this way the corner angles could be set to be in camber or off camber and the straights could be set with some ups and downs etc to give the track a rally look and a few driving challenges. I attached supporting upright timber blocks to the pine batten supports on the base platform and also onto the base sheet itself. Then attached some (shaped) short batten timbers horizontally to the template sheet in the various parts of the track that required shaped supports to keep the MDF bending smoothly . I then attached the shaped supports to the supporting blocks with small pine risers, with the riser timbers I could adjust the layout as I liked for height.
The supports under the template sheet are set out in a way to support the track and also support people that will be leaning on the track when they reach to get there cars when they de slot at the top areas of the track . I tried to keep the timber work as light as possible so some of the riser blocks are made up from 70mmx 35 mm pine stud have had a 40 mm hole saw run through them to remove some weight.

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Some upright supporting blocks and horizontal shaped batten supports

Starting at the front controller station and working towards the back of the track allowed me to get in under the template sheet to attach the upright blocks and horizontal batten supports. I measured and cut timbers as I went and often turned the track around so I could stand back and have a look at how it was coming together.

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With all the support timberwork in place and a final height set I put on a 42mm x 19mm pine frame around the outside on the left, right and back edges. I am ready to put the pre cut top sheet on for a test fit and most likely trim it to allow for fencing to be slipped in around the track. The fencing will be 3mm MDF and glued to the 3mm template sheet and the sides of the 6mm Top sheet some of the fencing will be bridging / closing the gap between the different levels of the track.
The walls will be dressed up to look like a rock wall or brick wall and some of the fencing will be covered with foam and painted to give a dirt bank look to the sides of the track . I will use the green scour pads over some fences to give a hedge look and it will help to soften any bad crashes that will happen, if you dont crash your not trying hard enough .

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I will add more as the track build moves along. After Bathurst - Cant miss that day in front of TV huh?

Look further down this thread for some more track build photos

Edited by BMR, 16 March 2011 - 02:49 PM.


#2 gazza

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Posted 07 October 2007 - 07:39 AM

Looks good BMR ....... you can never have enough "real race tracks"
Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again

Gary

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http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

#3 phoeno29

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Posted 07 October 2007 - 10:34 AM

BMR, Looks great, you will have heaps of fun building and using it.
Find me at Card Guys for custom trading cards

#4 imugford

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Posted 07 October 2007 - 07:53 PM

you've been busy steve !!! need anymore timber !?

#5 BMR

    wheres the tape measure ?

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Posted 07 October 2007 - 08:10 PM

View Postimugford, on Oct 7 2007, 07:53 PM, said:

you've been busy steve !!! need anymore timber !?
Im after some 70mm x 35mm stud for legs (2 @ 2.4) will do it .
Imkouwl will be needing some for his track build - for legs

#6 3ofus

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Posted 09 October 2007 - 12:54 AM

and i think 3ofus might need some soon too :) :)
looking good Steve:clap: :huh2: :clap:
winning is so over-rated

#7 BMR

    wheres the tape measure ?

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Posted 09 October 2007 - 01:12 AM

View Postimugford, on Oct 7 2007, 07:53 PM, said:

you've been busy steve !!! need anymore timber !?
Timber orders for the future ? mmmmmm 5 x 2.4 Speedway track maybe ? See how many get into the rally track , and push the drag strip into action see if cars start to make a show for that as well.

I think Im hooked on slot car racing , is there a cure ?

#8 Chewycat

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Posted 09 October 2007 - 01:56 AM

Thankfully no :huh2:
Reality what a concept


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Trying to perfect the obscure art of Zen slot car racing

#9 BMR

    wheres the tape measure ?

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Posted 10 October 2007 - 12:06 AM

A bit more track work

The 6mm top sheet is set out flat on the work table and a 1/8th slot is cut into place , I marked out the line with pencil then with the router depth set at 5.5mm I free hand cut the slot. Following the pencil line as close as possible, I think a few carpenters will be cringing at the thought of free hand cutting but its no harder than following a line with a jigsaw , except the router wants to turn better one way because of the rotational torque of the machine and its heaps faster that making a multitude of jigs . I had a couple of slips and lining it up to finish the slot in line with the starting point was tricky but I figured it didn’t have to be a perfect radius everywhere anyway – it’s a rally track ! A bit of sand paper and a little wood bog will fix the couple of slip-ups easily. I didn’t bother with cutting a braid landing as I am going to use Copper tape instead of braid, The track circuit is just over 10 metres around …I was a bit stunned when I measured it out , surprising how much track length can fit onto a small board.

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Free hand router cut of the slot in the 6mm top sheet

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The slot before some sanding to smooth the radius out.

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Start and finish point for the router cutting of the slot , Oops !

The 6mm top sheet was gently dropped onto the top and as you can see the 3mm template sheet is far more flexible but with patience the 6mm sheet did form to follow the 3mm template and the track layout with the level changes etc. The 6mm sheet had only 0.5 mm holding it together at the bottom of the slot cut so it was screwed down with a bit of care at first to get it to line up with the template sheet, once it was on and looked ok the top sheet slot was cut through with a Stanley knife along the bottom of the slot (0.5mm is easy to cut) the underside edges were given a sanding to clean it up then bit by bit I worked around the track gluing it down to the template sheet. I used liquid nails and plenty of screws to make it all set in place. Most of the screws will be removed when the glue sets.

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6mm top sheet over the 3mm template sheet

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The knife cut edge at the bottom of the slot before sanding

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Working around the track gluing the layers together, by lifting the layers I could clear out any off cut MDF trimmings etc from underneath and squirt in some liquid nails , then screw the top sheet in place. The sheet could still move around a bit so I had to keep an eye on the slot width. I also used plenty of screws to keep it level across the track.

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6mm top sheet on the 3mm template sheet

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The layers are glued together, lots of screws and a slot is cut, next step will be 3mm barrier walls and an undercoat sealer for the whole lot and the sides and back will get 6mm plywood covers.

Barrier fences and some hillside gardening to do for next post

#10 BMR

    wheres the tape measure ?

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Posted 10 October 2007 - 02:07 AM

View Postphoeno29, on Oct 7 2007, 10:34 AM, said:

BMR, Looks great, you will have heaps of fun building and using it.
Thanks for the encouragement , I have been looking at the links on the track and scenery page that " Tileguy " posted the link to.

http://members.optus...g/frameset.html

(The train site with the lumber yard) That is fantastic in detail and must have taken years to do , makes my rocks and trees - blobs of plaster and fuzzy toilet brush look a bit dull in comparison. I had some trouble with getting onto your site the other night but I have had a look now and you have some great stuff on there , plenty of tips for the scenery and how to make it . That will save me from asking any more "how do I do this questions"
Your track looks like a great track to run on that corkscrew bit reminds me of the dipper at Bathurst.

Edited by BMR, 10 October 2007 - 02:11 AM.


#11 kalbfellp

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Posted 10 October 2007 - 09:09 AM

Link is dead or incorrect.

Phil

#12 lavenlaar

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Posted 10 October 2007 - 09:42 AM

this is the one i think he means

http://members.optus...s/ng_webex.html

was it Snake River ? http://members.optushome.com.au/jdennis/sn...r/frameset.html
:)

Cheers
LAV

Edited by lavenlaar, 10 October 2007 - 09:49 AM.


#13 BMR

    wheres the tape measure ?

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Posted 11 October 2007 - 12:20 AM

View Postkalbfellp, on Oct 10 2007, 09:09 AM, said:

Link is dead or incorrect.

Phil
http://www.auslot.co...?showtopic=4437 Hope this one works

its in "Tileguy " posts under Track scenery ( collection of scenery posts )
quoted / copied below
Be SURE to look at the RED STAG LUMBER CO........Considered by Most in the hobby to be the finest Narrow Gauge Logging Layout EVER BUILT........Says a little something about Aussie Modelers doesnt it
http://members.optus...g/frameset.html

Damn it still don't work - go to the page track scenery on Auslot (collection of Scenery posts) it works from there but not when its cut n pasted ??

Edited by BMR, 11 October 2007 - 12:22 AM.


#14 BMR

    wheres the tape measure ?

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Posted 11 October 2007 - 12:25 AM

View Postlavenlaar, on Oct 10 2007, 09:42 AM, said:

this is the one i think he means

http://members.optus...s/ng_webex.html

was it Snake River ? http://members.optushome.com.au/jdennis/sn...r/frameset.html
:ph34r:

Cheers
LAV
yep your link works , just scrolled down to RED STAG LUMBER COMPANY ,

#15 Sports Racer

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Posted 11 October 2007 - 03:02 PM

I remember seeing the Red Stag layout at Castle Hill some years ago. The photos don't even come close to how impressive this track was. All day long it was three deep in spectators.
May the downforce be with you.

#16 BMR

    wheres the tape measure ?

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Posted 12 October 2007 - 11:57 AM

More progress : Barrier walls and some diorama

The barrier walls are 3mm MDF screwed and glued to small pine blocks which are screwed and glued to the underside of the track . I used liquid nails to run a fillet bead along to strengthen the join between the track and the barrier , this also made the whole track stronger so when people lean on the track to reach the back and grab a de slotted car there will be no flexing and odd cracking sounds . The barriers will be cut down in height when the liquid nails is dry then some undercoat sealer will be brushed over the track . For diorama scenery Im going with a desert theme , its easy and after watching the Pixar movie “Cars” again with my daughter I thought it looked good and the area is small so there is not much area to do more anyway . I also want a fold down lid over the rally track so it can be a bench on club nights , so trees would probably get in the way.

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This pic is of the small blocks under the track to screw the side barrier walls to.

Small blocks are used to set the height of the raised inner scenery area as well as support for barrier walls

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A bead of liquid nails runs between the barrier wall and the track surface.
Filleted inside and outside of the barrier wall,

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Squeeze it on

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Smooth it out

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This pic below shows how if a car is going slowly the rear wheels need space inside so they can cut the corners as well as space outside on the corners to slide out wide.

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I will put a tyre or two inside this corner and another tight corner so the car will be helped around the corner by tapping against the tyre if its going slow and the car should stay aligned with the slot rather than have the flag pushing at an odd angle in the slot.
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Working around the track all the barriers are installed , they will be cut to height and then some work can begin on a base for some scenery Im thinking of using styrene foam and a cover over that of cornice cement / plaster. Any better ideas please post them , Im trying to keep the weight down so plaster was not really my favourite idea.

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Beginning to look like a rally track now.

Edited by BMR, 12 October 2007 - 12:08 PM.


#17 Sports Racer

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Posted 12 October 2007 - 06:10 PM

Looking real good. :lol:
May the downforce be with you.

#18 BMR

    wheres the tape measure ?

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Posted 13 October 2007 - 09:33 PM

A bit of a start on the hillsides ( Diorama )

I had a look around the shed at what I had lying about, PVA glue, styrene foam, liquid nails, MDF off cuts and a old pink flannelette bed sheet.
I thought a desert theme would be easy enough with no trees or other high pieces that would get in the way when the lid was closed on the track. I was also still thinking about weight, which is creeping up around 50- 60kg at a guess. Its no longer a one-man job to lift it about.
I started by using an off cut from one of the barrier walls , glued it with liquid nails and a couple of screws to hold it in place while it dries. I glued in some layers of foam to fill it the space a bit then glued a piece of old bed sheet over the top to try to get a weather worn hillside look.

Click the pics then push F11 on your keyboard the pics should fill your screen.

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I also smeared on some liquid nails to the side barriers and around the corner outer walls , using a piece of MDF offcut and my fingers I scraped it about and tried to get a look something like a cut-out canyon. Its a sticky , messy job and Im glad I had plenty of old rags and some kero to clean the liquid nails off my hands , The liquid nail covered side barriers looked more like they belonged to a wet climate area and if I covered the hills in grass I think it would look ok but I want a desert . The pics below are before the pieces of flannelette bed sheet went over the top.
I posted the pics here because if a wet climate look is what you like then in my opinion the scraped liquid nails on the sides looks ok and it very strong but light weight. Just add some paint to give it a dark brown soil colour and a bit of grass with some bushes and trees about the place and I think it could look like a rally through a rain forest type area.

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I have glued the bed sheet over the top of the liquid nail effect to try and get a smoother weather worn look to the track scenery area a bit like the areas around Ayers Rock or maybe an area in the Arizona desert , I have posted most of these pics in Black and white I could not stand the pink look and in B&W its a little easier to picture it as a dry canyon area . Im only using what I have lying about except for a few extra tubes of liquid nails so the Rally track is not costing a lot to build so far.
I had all the pine battens the MDF and plywood sheet were left over from the rebuild of the 4 lane track and the glue , paint , MDF sealer and screws were left overs as well. I have listed the materials that I have used so far below these photos .

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I had 90% of this stuff in the shed already but heres a run down at Bunnings Hardware prices Oct 2007 if you were to buy it all.
ITEM Size or Amount Cost
Base sheet Plywood 1 @ 6mm x 2.4m x 1.2m $30.00
Template sheet MDF 1 @ 3mm x 2.4m x 1.2m $13.95
Top sheet MDF 1 @ 6mm x 2.4m x 1.2m $19.95
Pine battens 10 @ 42mm x 19mm $2.50 each $25.00
Pine stud 2 @ 70mm x 35mm $4.50 each $ 9.00
Chipboard screws Boxes of 100
Box of 20 screws 2 x (8g x 20) $4.95 each
1 x (8g x 35) $4.95
1 x (8g x 65) $2.95 $17.80
PVA glue 1 x 500ml $12.50
Liquid nails in a tube 15 tubes $1.98 each $29.70
MDF undercoat sealer 1 x 500ml $25.95
Topcoat acrylic paint 1 x 500ml base white $19.90
Coloured paint tins 2 x 50ml copper / brown $2.98 each $ 6.00

Total $388.85

Plus the lid which will be 6mm x 2m x 1.2m plywood , a pine batten frame , hinges , handle , screws and a little paint - $50.00

Edited by BMR, 13 October 2007 - 09:41 PM.


#19 slots

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Posted 14 October 2007 - 12:13 PM

THAT'S going to be fun to drive! Can't wait to see the final product. :D
Stu

Old racers race harder

#20 BMR

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Posted 14 October 2007 - 10:17 PM

View Postslots, on Oct 14 2007, 12:13 PM, said:

THAT'S going to be fun to drive! Can't wait to see the final product. B)
Cheers Slots I am hanging to throw a car on it and see if it can drive around OK . I put on a undercoat and I played around with a different colour over the undercoat while it was half dry to blend it in a bit and try for a red desert look to the track something like the Simpson desert or somewhere around the north west area of South Australia - Olgas or Ayers Rock regions ?
It will be whats ever it is when its done , I still have a few screw holes to fill in and then its time for some copper tape and power .Heres a few pics of the paint work so far. after you open it click the F11 button and you will get full screen . Im still humming and haring about any plant life ?? :D

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