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boslot

Classic Grand Prix F1 Post 1970

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This will be a new racing class for Warwick Farm Circuit. After testing these cars back to back they will make good running mates, and with new liverys coming out later this year they will be a good field of cars to choose from.

 

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Regards Bo

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I would suggest that everyone's allowed to use the Fly tyres. The March is almost the perfect slotcar & it may be because of the wheel...


Captain's log: We are enroute to some planet whose name I cannot pronounce to do something really complicated that I don't understand.

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Not so Eno the Ferrari has got as much grip and speed has the March on my track with the Mclaren not far behind.

 

Regards Bo

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Not so Eno the Ferrari has got as much grip and speed has the March on my track with the Mclaren not far behind.

 

Regards Bo

 

That's simply magnificent to hear Bo - I have the Hunt / Lauda cars and just bought the new Flys 'cause I needed them. I've only driven Brett's March briefly but..

 

..I actually dragged out some of my old Scaley cars & started thinking of getting Fly cars & gutting the scaley shells.. my word now we have a nice "Cosworth" to build cars around.. FLy have just printed money again haven't they???


Captain's log: We are enroute to some planet whose name I cannot pronounce to do something really complicated that I don't understand.

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..I actually dragged out some of my old Scaley cars & started thinking of getting Fly cars & gutting the scaley shells.. my word now we have a nice "Cosworth" to build cars around.. FLy have just printed money again haven't they???

 

Eno,

 

I have a Scalextric March 711 and it looks like with a little work and creative cutting, it will fit quite nice.

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Whilst they may look good the mclaren and alfa go like crap. any suggestions on how to make these

cars handle as they are to small inside to weight????


RUBBINS RACING SO HARDEN UP

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alfa
?????

Some of the guys down here have been testing them and changing the pinion to an 8 tooth helps.

But the only real solution is to drop the voltage for the short tracks. At 10 volts they are drivable with none or very little weight. At 12 volts is is very hard to get enought weight in them.

I only have the McLaren but Phil has the March and I know he has driven it on 10 volts and thought they were O/K.


The Stig

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Some of our chaps here have been racing the FLY March against Scaley's modern F1's in our league races and getting good results on our Scaley Sport track. But we run on 12 volts with magnets, though. I find the Scaley Ferrari a little bit of a handful and haven't tried the McLaren M23 yet. Personally, I think they are rather over-powered, just like the Scaley Sharknose Ferrari and Cooper Climax. A change to a slightly less peaky motor will make them much more fun to drive like this RM4 one which I got at one of our local electronic shops:

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although it means losing out to the Scaley motor-powered ones on our 25-foot straight but I guess you can't have your cake and eat it. :lol:


Lim

 

I enjoy racing. Winning or losing is secondary.

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If you guys race analog and if you allow any type of controllers, my dad has plans for a programmable anolog controller. You can set the brakes and the acceleration. You might be able to get the control you want without sacrificing top end. I will try to post plans for the controller.

Edited by old punk

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I just talked to my dad about the controller. He sugested a one designed with less ohms. I'm not very electronically savvy, but he was trying to explain to me that a high ohm controller with a "not-so-hot" motor would be like an on/off switch. A low ohm controller used with a hot motor would not even begin to run until the trigger was pulled all the way, so I guess that a ballance somewhere inbetween could be found. I'm not sure just how hot your motors are, but I'm guessing that a controller that operates arownd one ohm or less would offer the best performance. Those hot Parma controllers used at big commercial tracks are around two ohms. You guys probably already know these things. Like I said, I'm not that smart when it come to electronics.

 

One other old school idea he gave me was to rewind your motor using a doubled-up wire. To do this unwind the armature, double-up the wire, and rewind the motor. This will make a super hot motor that might burn up so watch your temp. Dad used this technique for drags in the 60's and later on an HO car in the 80's. He thought his HO car would burnout. Luckily, it didn't. Hope some of this helps.


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Unfortunately, engine mods are a no-no these days as it always ends in tears for someone. Even Open class commercials dis-allow re-winds and de-winds. There are quite a few really good analogue and electronic controllers on the market that have those features and a whole lot more. Check out the Scorpius thread. It will also be analogue frendly eventually.


Stu

 

Old racers race harder

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Hi everyone,

 

I run my cars with these slimline motors (the modern Scalextric & MRRC) with a Parma 60 OHM controller and find it the best thing I ever purchased. All of these cars are now smooth and so much more controlable that they are at last fun to drive .... we use 12 volt car battery as the power supple were I run these.

 

I've raced the Ferrari from this set a lot and even though it looks quite fragile it's a robust little bugger that can take a ton of punishment and multi car pile ups easily. :D

 

 

Oops, forgot to mention that the rear tyres on both the Scaley Ferrari & McLaren mentioned in this thread are crap and have very little grip. I use Urethane tyres on rear of both of these cars now, and the change in how they run now is incredible.

Edited by mirrorman

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