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Vinno, I bet the high gearing in that car is great for the Pretzel.

 

I found the car fast on my track, but very hard to hit the braking points just right, it was just quicker than everything else. I tended to spin out a lot at the end of straights, simply "driver error" - overcooking it.

So today I rippped out the 26 tooth crown and put in an aluminium 30 tooth. It's almost TOO low now, but really pulls up sharp on my short track and is a lot easier to drive consistently. Every gram I could nick out of the rear end weight worthwhile, which is why I went aluminium. I might toss a hollow axle in as well. I heard that the quick guys use them at Armchair quite a bit.

 

I'd suggest for anyone who runs on a shortish home track, eg the typical 4 sheets of MDF trick, and has good grip, drop the gearing back to the more standard 9:28 or even lower like me if you want to experiment. Seems to tame the beast a bit.

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I though the instructions and glue mod were straight forward - and just like Manic in his review, I dislike the way the front wheels need to go on (Good to see you back Manic, great review as always). I ended up using a vice on this one, but still not ideal - will be sticking an independent front on as soon as I get some correctly sized wheels. I have now put in an anglewinder setup, using the Flat-6R, so we'll see how that goes. It was certainly the fastest stock Slot.It I had driven. Interesting about trimming weight in the rear Mark, as my going angle winder seems to add loads of weight - we'll see whether it ends up being detrimental.

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Mike,

 

no need to change wheels, - I used the independent front axle with the standard plastic ones, I just drilled through them (with a 3/32nd drill from memory),

and switched to the new axle.

ok, I could try that - but doesn't one side still need securing with an M2 grub screw to the axel - thought that was the way the picture on the instructions looked?

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Mike,

 

no need to change wheels, - I used the independent front axle with the standard plastic ones, I just drilled through them (with a 3/32nd drill from memory),

and switched to the new axle.

ok, I could try that - but doesn't one side still need securing with an M2 grub screw to the axel - thought that was the way the picture on the instructions looked?

 

All I did was press a 1.6mm eyelet onto each end, the wheels spin freely inside the lip of the eyelet.

That way you end up with both ends able to spin independently of axle rotation, as well as the axle itself being free to move, but if the axle binds at all, it doesn't lock either wheel. Seems like a simple, practical option that's all. Saved me parts/cost, and may even be better than haviing on ehweel locked into axle rotation.....

 

nb, Ninco braid eyelets appear to be the same as the supplied ones.......;)

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Mike,

 

no need to change wheels, - I used the independent front axle with the standard plastic ones, I just drilled through them (with a 3/32nd drill from memory),

and switched to the new axle.

ok, I could try that - but doesn't one side still need securing with an M2 grub screw to the axel - thought that was the way the picture on the instructions looked?

 

All I did was press a 1.6mm eyelet onto each end, the wheels spin freely inside the lip of the eyelet.

That way you end up with both ends able to spin independently of axle rotation, as well as the axle itself being free to move, but if the axle binds at all, it doesn't lock either wheel. Seems like a simple, practical option that's all. Saved me parts/cost, and may even be better than haviing on ehweel locked into axle rotation.....

 

nb, Ninco braid eyelets appear to be the same as the supplied ones.......;)

Cheers Mark, I'll give it a whirl tonight.

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It mighten be a rally car,..........but he's driving it like one :D . Looks like all wheels are off the ground.

Second what tvwino said, cool shot


Resized to 83% (was 1006 x 146) - Click image to enlarge

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Well I assembled mine last week and thought it would be a piece of C--P but it actually flies around my track (wooden routed ) although a little more grip would be good ...the lack of grip puts it behind when racing against my slot it porsche 956.The flimsy body work will not fair well if it collides with anything more than corflute safety fencing I suspect

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.......it actually flies around my track (wooden routed ) although a little more grip would be good ...the lack of grip puts it behind when racing against my slot it porsche 956.

 

By nature of shape and design, it SHOULD be less "taily" and have better natural handling than a 956. Grip SHOULD be the same if you're runing non-mag with the silicons underneath. If you're running on ferrodor of course, you'll be wanting urethanes (eg MJK).

The fitted "stock" tyres are of no defined type, so if you still have those on, they may be inferior to the ones that came on the 956 - that's a bit of a lottery.

 

One thing I DID find was, see above my comments about gearing, mine was spinning out a lot because the higher gearing was "tricking me" on my relatively short straights and I kept entering corners too hard. Switching out the 26 tooth crown for a 28 tooth will make a significant difference to how the handling "feels" (better braking)

 

Make sure you have fixed the interior mount sagging issue, because a body touching and/or binding on the motor will just destroy the float/tip needed to get bite for the tyres.

Also, being a bit lighter than the 956, it MAY need a spot of weight, not much, maybe 5 grams about where the forward magnet would have sat.

 

Let us know how it's running in a week or two and what you've done - I'm all ears.

Edited by SlotsNZ

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.......it actually flies around my track (wooden routed ) although a little more grip would be good ...the lack of grip puts it behind when racing against my slot it porsche 956.

 

By nature of shape and design, it SHOULD be less "taily" and have better natural handling than a 956. Grip SHOULD be the same if you're runing non-mag with the silicons underneath. If you're running on ferrodor of course, you'll be wanting urethanes (eg MJK).

The fitted "stock" tyres are of no defined type, so if you still have those on, they may be inferior to the ones that came on the 956 - that's a bit of a lottery.

 

One thing I DID find was, see above my comments about gearing, mine was spinning out a lot because the higher gearing was "tricking me" on my relatively short straights and I kept entering corners too hard. Switching out the 26 tooth crown for a 28 tooth will make a significant difference to how the handling "feels" (better braking)

 

Make sure you have fixed the interior mount sagging issue, because a body touching and/or binding on the motor will just destroy the float/tip needed to get bite for the tyres.

Also, being a bit lighter than the 956, it MAY need a spot of weight, not much, maybe 5 grams about where the forward magnet would have sat.

 

Let us know how it's running in a week or two and what you've done - I'm all ears.

Thanks yes a little lead place amidships has done the trick ,my track surface is gloss paint so the slot it tyres work better than the fly tyes although our home made industrial rubber tyres are certainly leaps and bounds above any manufactured tyres

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industrial rubber

 

Is that the Rubber from PP that is almost sponge like inside? That is used for sealing around doors etc.

Yes Purple Pig insertion rubber that is used for gaskets etc. has very small holes in it but is quite a bit denser than the old sponge tyres that were the go

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Does anyone else allow spongies in 1/32 racing?

 

Not here, in our hard body rtr racing.


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Yes I use the stuff for body mounting. Not as good as Fish Spongies!

Also we don't allow sponge tyres in many class's down here.

 

Does anyone else allow spongies in 1/32 racing?

Have you ever driven a forklift with solid rubber tyres? Every bump hurts! Slot cars are no different....they hop at every bump, struggle for traction after hopping and generally do not perform like real tyres.

Purple Pig rubber tyres have little air pockets that cushion the irregularities yet still manage to get grip on most surfaces except plastic track. Maybe with the magical powers of magnetism they would even work on plastic track.

Real racers choose their rubber compounds after great testing and we have done the same. On the gloss painted surface of our tracks the PP rubber is the obvious choice.

Regards

Popdog

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real racers huh popdog?

 

ROFLMAOUIPM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeh like the ones who drive real cars on real raceways and on real roads like Mt Panorama or Silverstone or Suzuka etc

 

YOU KNOW THE LIFE SIZE ONES

 

PS

 

Were you afraid to race in the enduro ?

Edited by popdog

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YOU KNOW THE LIFE SIZE ONES

 

 

Wish I got paid like them to test tyre compounds....

 

Oh, hang on, I'm racing racing "toy car's"..... damn.. B)


"When you're racing, it's life, anything that happens before or after is just waiting"

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The PP sponge is a poor substitute for real fish sponge , Ingram Rubber in particular will out perform it on almost every track, believe me I have tried it all. You will also find that some of the eurethane tyres now around will provide more grip.

As for the Bounce the very soft rubber that is around now will also provide more grip on most surfaces.

 

The PP sponge, (it is not rubber as it is porus) has been around for years and tried for tyres by many people, it works well on small RC cars. But there are better choices around.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The PP sponge is a poor substitute for real fish sponge , Ingram Rubber in particular will out perform it on almost every track, believe me I have tried it all. You will also find that some of the eurethane tyres now around will provide more grip.

As for the Bounce the very soft rubber that is around now will also provide more grip on most surfaces.

 

The PP sponge, (it is not rubber as it is porus) has been around for years and tried for tyres by many people, it works well on small RC cars. But there are better choices around.

 

Thanks Phil...I am willing to try any other type of material ...but so far have tried silicon S1..Slot it P1 P2 P3 ...MJK ...urethane... but none can come near the performance of the PPs on gloss painted tracks.

 

I witnessed an enthusiast at a recent event trying his hardest with MJKs and he was doing well and his car was very smooth but they could not go the distance and his performance dropped off about half way through the event .

Scalextric tyres have become a little rounder of late but they are still a long way off being performance tyres.

My new Fly F40 goes well but its tyres do not get the grip that the motor deserves .

 

Are you saying that there is a better material for gloss painted tracks?

 

If you allow the running of a variety of tyres at your meets ...why dont you allow PPs? It comes across as a bit Biased.

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We only allow sponge tyres in two class's of cars,Can Am ( like the 1:1 class almost no rules) and on out post 1995 Lemans prototype class. All other class run rubber tyres. The PP material is a sponge. so would only be eligible for those class's.

I think we are one of the few 1/32nd clubs that allow any sponge tyres, most clubs run rubber or urethane.

Silicone is banned on most Aussie tracks.

 

But on Gloss tracks Fish sponge work well and I believe that some of the Urethane such as (old) Ortmans and Paul Gage work well. The NZ guys have some gloss track over there so they could probably make more comments. I also think properly prepared NSR Ultragrip should work well.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

Logos%2016_17.small_zpswkcwjf0q.jpg

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The PP sponge is a poor substitute for real fish sponge , Ingram Rubber in particular will out perform it on almost every track, believe me I have tried it all. You will also find that some of the eurethane tyres now around will provide more grip.

As for the Bounce the very soft rubber that is around now will also provide more grip on most surfaces.

 

The PP sponge, (it is not rubber as it is porus) has been around for years and tried for tyres by many people, it works well on small RC cars. But there are better choices around.

very impressive name dropping of all the old commercial style comercial 1/24 scale tyres however I am not trying to substitute for that type of racing ..PP tyres are perfect ..Purple Pig sell many types of rubber are you sure you know which one we are using? The rubber we get from PP is 100% pure rubber. These tyres are perfect for 1/32 scale racing and we even make sure that they are made proportionallly scaled in size.

I have raced cars fitted with these PP tyres that are NEARLY 10 years old and they are still fresh after a quick tape.

It will take an earth quake to convince me that a urethane tyre will ever perform as good on our tracks

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