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RE: SlotsNZ I found that after a couple of uses it became second nature to just throw one switch and tweak 3 knobs automatically

I tried to use my brake adjusting dial while racing to set it for different corners but Im not fast enough to do that successfully , I usually dial it the wrong way in the heat of battle and run into fences :D

Im may wait for Imlouwl to make his new controller up its got adjustable brakes . variable speed control to suit a wide variety of motors , and comes with two fluffy dice that ya roll to select the corner speed. :lol:

 

Adjustable brake is just set up FOR THE CAR AND TRACK you are about to drive, you dont fiddle with it while racing. I usually do it during a couple of practice laps before the race, a quick twist left and right. As I mostly drive the same tracks, it's pretty simple.

 

Likewise minimum speed/sensitivity and the power curve rate. I set those up on my PH controller each time I change car/class of racing during the night. Once you've done it one time for a car/track, it takes 2 seconds flat to set it about the same again, then forget abot it, and just squeeze the trigger and race.

 

The SCP-1 is NOT designed for use with Super 16Ds, max load is 6amps peak, about 5 amps constant - eg a Falcon 5 is about the maximum amount of motor for it.

 

The one control I lack, and which the SCP-1 HAS; and that at I think least one guy in our club has with his ACD controller is Power Trim. If you set THAT up right for a particular car and track, you can squeeze the throttle hard as you like at the exit of a turn and it won't "do a 360" on you. Set right, the car might just say twitch the back end a little sideways then go off at maximum acceleration perfect each time.

 

The only arguement about controller features like these is the same arguement as people have about all the computer control in F1 cars. It makes the computer the driver, and the driver an "assistant" Like I said earlier, I think it has the capacity to make midfield drivers catch up to the best drivers.

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I had a fondle of one a couple of hours ago (I took the baby to see the cars.. :lol: ). I was really suprised how light it is for the size of the thing.

 

I didn't think I liked the trigger at first 'cause it's so damn light.. thinking on it though, with the problems I have with my hands (bloody soft & weak with bad joints) I reckon I could get used to it over a long session very quickly.

 

The 'computer assistance' part may not be kosher in some circles but for those of us no longer with full use of our reflexes..

 

I'm going to get adjustable pots on my home Parmas first though. I'd rather try to learn to drive well again before I try to use even more adjustability.


Captain's log: We are enroute to some planet whose name I cannot pronounce to do something really complicated that I don't understand.

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I think Slot it have introduced a self selling product , as one person gets this controller within a club and starts to win races the other members will need to buy the controller as well just to keep up.

To me it would just be another extra cost to getting into our hobby that could potentially put off any new people from joining a club . Its a bit like allowing a driver to race a Slot it Ferrari against a field of stock Scalextrix V8s - hes in the race with an advantage before the flag drops huh ? It will sell for sure but Im with Eno - computer assistance is not really Kosher

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I think Slot it have introduced a self selling product , as one person gets this controller within a club and starts to win races the other members will need to buy the controller as well just to keep up.

To me it would just be another extra cost to getting into our hobby that could potentially put off any new people from joining a club . Its a bit like allowing a driver to race a Slot it Ferrari against a field of stock Scalextrix V8s - hes in the race with an advantage before the flag drops huh ? It will sell for sure but Im with Eno - computer assistance is not really Kosher

 

I'm not entirely certain about that one.. it doesn't seem unreasonably priced. The electronic controller aspect may be the selling point if you have a lot of different types of cars though.

 

Actually who am I kidding. I reckon most guys are going to buy it 'cause Slot.It has managed to build up such a damn good name for themselves. That's actually why I'm so interested in what it will do and how it works - I 'trust' the company.

 

I don't know that it is computer assistance as such. it's more being able to set up a car without bothering. I think the good guys will get better and the rest of us will have fun with a nice piece of kit! :lol::lol:


Captain's log: We are enroute to some planet whose name I cannot pronounce to do something really complicated that I don't understand.

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I think Slot it have introduced a self selling product , as one person gets this controller within a club and starts to win races the other members will need to buy the controller as well just to keep up.

To me it would just be another extra cost to getting into our hobby that could potentially put off any new people from joining a club . Its a bit like allowing a driver to race a Slot it Ferrari against a field of stock Scalextrix V8s - hes in the race with an advantage before the flag drops huh ? It will sell for sure but Im with Eno - computer assistance is not really Kosher

 

I'm not entirely certain about that one.. it doesn't seem unreasonably priced. The electronic controller aspect may be the selling point if you have a lot of different types of cars though.

 

Actually who am I kidding. I reckon most guys are going to buy it 'cause Slot.It has managed to build up such a damn good name for themselves. That's actually why I'm so interested in what it will do and how it works - I 'trust' the company.

 

I don't know that it is computer assistance as such. it's more being able to set up a car without bothering. I think the good guys will get better and the rest of us will have fun with a nice piece of kit! :lol::lol:

I haven't seen much literature on it , is there any option to make it suit the more power sucking motors like S16d ?

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We had our first race last night and five of the nine had Slot.it controllers. All ran well and those of us who have arthritic issues found the light trigger a relief in the Slot.it Group C enduro. I don't think there is any major advantage to driving with one as our drivers stations are set up with adjustable brakes. All the controller does is negate the need for owning three Parma's of varying resistance. If a driver is ham fisted it won't make a difference and it can't make a car with no grip better to drive. The fastest guys didn't go any faster and one of the guys who normally struggles had his best night using my 35 Ohm Parma.

 

Over all they won't make a good driver better but will make it a bit easier to set up for different cars. They are an evolution on the Professor controllers although they don't have a direction switch. It really works out cheaper to own one Slot.it than two Parma Pro Turbo's.

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Just a small note, Im right handed, and the controller seems set up for a right hander. Not sure if it bothers left handers as they would have to reach over to adjust anything whilst driving.


www.scorpiuswireless.com

The original wireless digital system with GRUNT.

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Just a small note, Im right handed, and the controller seems set up for a right hander. Not sure if it bothers left handers as they would have to reach over to adjust anything whilst driving.

 

I'm a southpaw, and despite our supposed penchant be being geniuses . . genuses. . . genyses . . . um . . er . . real smart . . . I have enough trouble remembering which pile of plastic I'm piloting, so I don't think I would have the time to fiddle with knobs while I'm racing, unless I had set the basic config. up so badly pre-race that I needed to make major adjustment.

 

You can always drive with the controller "flat" ie, pointing sideways/left to right anyhow, so the knobs are staring up at you.

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I raced with my SCP-1 controller last night and was rapped. :)

 

Finished =2nd against faster car than mine (a couple of position higher up than usual). After dialling in the car (a little bit on the conservative side) I was able to race flat out all night.

 

The result was a relief as I did not know what to expect.

 

I am left handed and this did not pose any issues for me but then us lefties have to be adaptable don't we.

 

 

Ray

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Raced for the second time Friday Night and the fuse blew on the last race.

 

I have replaced the fuse and the controller is working again but have not been able to track down the fault as yet.

 

Ray

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Hi Rick no just blue with all of th cars on track.

 

Please read the following from Slot.it which answers some questions that were asked recently:-

 

"Hi there.

First an answer about the fuse(s).

The controller itself has several means of protecting itself from short curcuit: power cut-off, and fuses.

 

If the controller detects a current drain of more than 5.5/6A, it immediately cuts the power and, every 100mS, checks whether the condition was transient or not, in order to give power back to the track. However, short circuits are tricky: if you are attached, say, to a power supply beefy enough to withstand the short circuit without too much trouble, fine.

 

The controller stays alive, monitors the current, and gently takes care of itself and of, incidentally, everything which could be damaged by the short.

 

So what's the need for the fuse? Well, the short circuit often drives the power supply to a 'grey' level where, say, the output voltage is below the working threshold for the controller, which is basically knocked off or working unreliably. In this condition, the MOSFETS might be alive (or worse, in the linear working zone) without any protection from the controller.

 

That's what the glass fuse is for. Please be advised that however, we are upgrading the fuse spec to 3.15A (Fast acting) from 2.5A (Fast acting). We are also switching to glass for better detection of fuse blowup. We advise against using any fuse with a higher rating - 3.15A should not be exceeded.

 

1. Data Pod is going to be available in 2008. Telemetry will save data, to USB key or directly stream it to PC in real time. It will be shown in Nuernberg.

2. Track interface is a very simple box which sits between the track and the controller, or the DS bridge and the controller, whose purpose is sending the 'lap' or 'sector' event trigger to the controller. It can be daisy chained, all the controller needs to receive is one single extra wire.

3. Spreadsheet is available from the download section

4. It depends on what motor you are using - but there might be several Amps flowing, so some warming is possible. Should never ever get hot tough.

5. Not rated for 16D. You'll notice you can drive a 16D 'gently' but if you try to accelerate faster it wil stutter - that's the protection working. There will be a 'very high Amp' cartridge available in the future.

6. Digital and 'negative wiring' (common positive, i.e. Hornby/SCX home sets): April hopefully. High Amp: later but no deadline yet.

 

Kind regards

Maurizio"

 

And

 

"Hi

the Track interface will need sensors - either DS bridge, dead band, or the like; no price available at this stage but won't be too expensive.

 

Kind regards

Maurizio"

 

 

 

Regards

 

Ray

Edited by Ray S

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I was just over in 'Slotforum' and they have an 'interactive forum' over issues with these handles where Maurizio is monitoring the thread and explaining about the design, future releases, hints and tips etc etc. (Mods - please feel free to delete post if I shouldn't be mentioning the 'enemy')


Captain's log: We are enroute to some planet whose name I cannot pronounce to do something really complicated that I don't understand.

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I must have blew my fuse as well last night racing. I presume they are readily replaceable? I notice some comments re 16 d motors. I specifically purchased this controller so i could race those cars, could this have blown the fuse?? Apart from that very nice controller once you get used to the dials etc

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beastm

 

If you read the manual it says there is a limit to the maximum amps but there are upgrades on the way for the controller so the one controller will have different functions. I do explain some of this breifly in my review in the review section.

 

Eno

 

No issues about mentioning other forums names, we do our own thing here so who really cares.

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New Slot.it Audi Snetterton

 

A surprise re-release from Slot.it is the Audi R8C. Completely reworked and looking tough in black it is a completely different car to the first Slot.it car to be released by the Italian Maestro Maurucio Ferrari. I am working on a review which will be up this weekend.

 

2008slot.itaudi.jpg

 

See the review here.

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I have seen the car, when are we likely to see the new low profile motor and gears etc?

 

Regards

 

Ray

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There is a negative polarity upgrade coming too. Spare boards are also on order.

 

Hi Vinno

 

I have a 4 lane 22 meter track, classic and sport mix, running on 4 transformers though the sport power board.Can you give me a little help on he best way to connect the Slot.it Scp 1 hand controllers. and do I have to change the direction the cars run. ( this would be bad)

 

Many thanks

 

Simon

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Simon,

the cartridge for analog scalextric should be available soon, and it will have termination to fit the power base right out of the box - so you should be good.

The only cartridge available today is the positive polarity one for commercial track types.

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The SCP-1 fuses are a jiffy to change. I have blown several when racing with magnet cars on the Ninco track.

 

As the track rails are slightly raised above the track bed, and we run some very low Ninco modifieds and Slot.its with magnets, we get some shorting out on the rails, and this is a common cause of blown fuses..........

 

On the flip side, I have only ever blown one fuse on my home wood track, and I know exactly how it happened. A car with longish braids hanging down, de-slotted, ran across my lane and shorted the rails.

 

I have the later batch of controllers, with the upgraded internal re-setttable fuse, and took the Slot.it advice on Slotforum to utilise 3.14 amp fast blow user-replacable fuses, rather than the 2.5??? amp fuse the controllers originally came fitted with. I buy the Digitor ones from Dick Smiths, they are cheap as chips.

 

Unscrew just the one screw near the bottomn of the controller, remove it, then slide the "pod" gently downwards until it comes free from the main controller body. The 20mm fuse is on that pod/module, and takes 2 seconds to flip the blown one out of the standard type holder, and push in a new one.

 

It probably makes little difference if you get a dead short across the track rails and have a 25 amp power supply.....but in "moderate" circumstances, may save the odd blown fuse.

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Heres the latest Slol it 956 Porsche Warsteniner now with new angle winder chassis.

Another stunning model from Slot it.

 

100_0609.jpg

 

100_0610.jpg

 

100_0607.jpg

 

Regards Bo

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the new, extra detailing for the side air intake is awesome.

It's attached from inside, as part of the cockpit, so will make repaint jobs easier as well I reckon.

Another great job Maurizio.

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