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Track Progress... Been A While


schuey19

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The last update I had on my three lane routered layout was on ANZAC day. So, a brief summary.

 

This is where I was up to at the time. The track was all built, painted (low sheen interior paint) and was 2/3's taped (I'm using copper tape).

 

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In September I got it running. Big gap in progress, but we had a new addition to the family. I got the timing hooked up, running Ultimate Racer 3 using darlington phototransistors for the sensors and for the time being, a desk lamp for the light source.

 

The lane layout is 1 white, 2 yellow and 3 red. On 9.5v I had the V8's down to 8.9 in white, 8.95 yellow and 8.9 in red. I got a Ninco Supra down to 8.2, 8.1 and 8.5.

Now I'm not the greatest trigger operator going around, but over a block of 20 laps, I could consistently hover about .05 to .1 of a second from these times.

 

The problem I was having, was that I found them all to taily. The cars wouldn't hold a nice drift through a corner, there was basically just no grip at all so would almost 'pendulum' its way through the corner if I was a little too hot going in. Even down the straights on 9.5v you tell they were struggling to grip onto the surface.

 

So over the last couple of weeks I'd been toying with the idea of re surfacing. I'd read a heap of threads here and abroad about different paints and their differing grip levels. Having raced on Boslot's ferrodor track numerous times, while the grip level was great re routing the entire track to enable braid, plus the cost of braid was most definitely out of the question. The easiest and cheapest was chalkboard paint.

 

I bit the bullet on the weekend gone and spent a day masking, trimming and painting. I didn't get pics of it in progress, just the completed rework. I only rolled a single coat on straight over the top, just cleaned the surface with an Enjo glove!

 

Front straight, start where cars are.

 

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Back half

 

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Turn one. Could be nasty at the start of a race, esp with only a short run from the start. Will find out when I eventually have the guys over!

 

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On the back end running up to the bridge

 

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The bridge. Where the 888 Falcon and Castrol Commo are, are removable sections which join the tables together.

 

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I've tried to make it with ease of assembly/dis-assembly for storage/transport or whatever in mind. The 6x4ft three tables simply bolt together and the two outer tables are connected to the main centre table via a single 9 pin plug each. The entire driver station panel is removable, and it too connects to the centre table with a single plug. (it will when I stop driving and finish it off)

 

Section removed (four screws)

 

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Underneath the centre table. Each table has it's own terminal strip, and then it all feeds to a 9 pin plug.

 

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Sine the repaint, still on 9.5v I have gotten V8's down to 7.3 white, 7.3 yellow and 7.2 red. The Ninco Supra I've only run on yellow and that was a best of 6.9.

 

Today I got a Scaley Ferrari F2004 so I removed magnet, added a bit of weight, and on yellow I managed a couple of 6.6's.

 

Next is to finsh the table edges, and construct a proper light gantry with start lights also. Then its onto the scenery...

 

Michael

Edited by gazza
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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the comments guys.

 

Ron, welcome aboard. Like I said the other day a big difference with the new surface.

would probably be good if people stopped breaking the 888 car though

Yeah, but mother in law felt so sick about her guests breaking it, that's how I ended up with the Cat Falcon!

 

Martin, didn't know about that tip! Oh well.

 

Now that I've run it a bit, it doesn't have the viscous bite as it did when first done. So now there is a little hint of drift, but not the insane amount of before.

 

Michael

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  • 4 months later...

A bit of an update to my track.

 

Finished the light gantry a month or so ago. Used a piece of 16mmx16mm electrical trunking with removable top. This fitted perfectly into a 's' piece I got a mate at work to make for me from square sectional tubing or what ever its called. The three IR LEDs for the light source in the bottom are powered off an adjustable power supply set at four volts. The LEDs on top via a seven pin plug connect to the sensor harness which goes to the PC. The three orange LEDs are lane indicators which, software dependant, can be used to indicate when a driver does fastest lap, jump start, low fuel... you get the idea.

 

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Also made a start on the scenery. Here is the first pic. The ripple strips are from 2mm balsa. All scenery material is woodland scenics.

 

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Since this pic was taken last week, I've done a heap more, just haven't taken pictures. We had some friends down from QLD visit yesterday, and I drove it for the first time with scenery in place. One of the hills that I had plastered was abit too close and there was a tendency to lift the back of the Slot-it Nissan. It is a longish car, but I though I would do that part again anyway. Pics to follow.

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Starting to look good. How is the Ultimate Racer 3 software performing?

 

Phil

 

Am finding UR 3.25 excellent. Had some small probs earlier, mainly the start lights not staying on when the session starts. When I installed v2.5 that went away, but now I can't seem to get the fast lap light to come on when it should, ie when a fastest lap is done. They work fine when a jump start is made so I know the lights work, and I have triple checked the settings. Anyway, not too fussed about it.

 

Here are some pics that I've taken today. So far all I've done is ripple strips, walls and to plaster hills and some parts of the trackside. I want to have that all done first before I start painting.

 

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100_4887.jpg

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Thanks for all the feedback guys.

 

Jamie, I started building this way back in Dec 05, so yeah you could say I'm taking my time, especially when we've seen what Bo and Charlie get up to in a couple of days! But since I've started the scenery, I'm spending about two hours a night out there.

 

Manic, like Martin said, it is Woodland Scenics pre-plastered cloth. Just cut to required shape, sit in water for a minute or so and apply.

 

I've got the next week off work, so in between playing with the kids, studying for a work related promotion board and general round the house jobs, I'm aiming to have at least the all the plastering done. And to finally finish the drivers stations.

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And I thought I was slow building my new track!

 

We've moved house and had a baby in that time. And I'm on a very limited hobby budget which has to include cars, and when we have 12 classes that we run, its a toss up between cars or materials.

Edited by schuey19
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While I was waiting for some paint to dry on the driver station panel, I decided to do some finishing work on one corner. Apart from a small piece the size of a playing card for testing purposes, this is the first scenery work I've done. As I said before, its all Woodlands Scenics.

 

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I did the base colour, then while still slightly wet sprayed some adhesive on. Once I sprinkled on what I wanted and gently patted it down, I sprayed a fine mist of craft sealant. I'll do another coat later on this evening. Its mainly to hold everything in place. Last thing I want is for a car to come off and drag half the place with it back on.

Edited by schuey19
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While I was waiting for some paint to dry on the driver station panel, I decided to do some finishing work on one corner. Apart from a small piece the size of a playing card for testing purposes, this is the first scenery work I've done. As I said before, its all Woodlands Scenics.

 

100_4897.jpg

 

I sprayed a fine mist of craft sealant. I'll do another coat later on this evening.

 

Really like the natural look Schuey, the grass shows a bit of wear closer to the track from the occasional off. Whats the craft sealant your using over the top, is it kind of like a matt laquer?

 

SR

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