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Ssd Multiple Powerbase Project Success

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Hi Guys,

Just to let you know have just successfully completed multiple powerbase project using 2 Version 1.5 powerbases wired together in conjunction with a couple of digital slotters from the UK.

One master and unlimited slave powerbases can now be wired together, each powerbase adding 5 amps to the system. This is still at the bench testing stage but will incorporate into the system soon. One master and two slaves would give 15 amps, etc.

Dont throw away the 2nd track sensor either, save these for pit entry, finish line through pits and other sector timing possibilities. Software is currently being devised to have fully functional timed pit stops with simulated fuel usage and re-fuelling, great for Le Mans type events or any race over 25 laps.

Once implemented this will be the last major issue for my track, with 6 cars being able to be be raced with 25k motors with or without magnets without any noticeable power loss. (no chips made to date can take 30K).

Cheers.


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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Your not only a poineer but a martyr Rick. No doubt you will go down in history as well. Looking forward to the end result. B)


I can't believe that I wanted to grow up

 

Mount Salt Panorama Track Combined Road and Rally Track built near Salt Pan Creek Padstow - Sydney

 

A quick build rally track

 

2017 WRP Round 11 at Mt Salt Panorama

 

https://i128.photobu...zpss7sqiwfj.jpg

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Hi Guys,

The project with multiple Scalextric Digital Powerbases wired together to improve power flow is now in its testing stage. Once bench tested ok I put them into my track, the results are as follows.

 

Test 1) Put 6 x25K Slot. it with double magnet on I.D. number 1. Volts 13.8, Floor cars hard off grid, all cars accelerated at a fast pace and NO OVERLOAD

 

Test 2) Put 6 x 25K Slot. it with double magnet on I.D. number 1. Volts 16.0, Floor cars hard off grid, all cars accelerated at a fast pace and NO OVERLOAD

 

Test 3) Put 6 x Scaley Audi single magnet, one car on each I.D. Volts 13.8, All cars accelerated at a fast pace and NO OVERLOAD

 

Test 4) Put 6 x Scaley Audi single magnet, one car on each I.D. Volts 16.0, All cars accelerated at a fast pace and NO OVERLOAD

 

Test 5) Put 12 cars on, yes 3 on I.D number 1, 3 on I.D. number 2 and so on till all 12 cars were I.D.'d

13.8 volts, full accelation off grid, cars little sluggish , NO OVERLOAD ...12 cars!

 

Test 6) Put 12 cars on, yes 3 on I.D number 1, 3 on I.D. number 2 and so on till all 12 cars were I.D.'d

16.0 volts, full accelation off grid, cars little sluggish , NO OVERLOAD...12 cars!

 

This proves that the system is now able to take double the load and should make for some fast reliable comp races.

Also raced 2 x digital Slot. it cars with 25k motors on 15 volts and WOW were they quick or what.

Other tests involved 6 cars with wheels jacked off ground, full throttle, was able to take sysyem to 30 volts before Powerbase overloaded, previously with one Powerbase it was 20 volts. Amps is wha were after but still it proved more herbs are able to pass through to rails.

For this project you need 2 Powerbases, a good eye, good soldering technique and some wire, anyone wanting to try it just let me know and Ill post pics if req'd.

Cheers.


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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For this project you need 2 Powerbases, a good eye, good soldering technique and some wire, anyone wanting to try it just let me know and Ill post pics if req'd.

 

Yes please Aussieslotter, just starting to get things together for my track. Also interested in how you wired up the LC's for independant power

 

John (Shed Racer)

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Hi Aussiesloter,

 

Just purchased 2 x digital sets and heaps of extra track and have had my first test drive, it's not bad but the cars seemed a little sluggish at first but that may have been due to dusty track. Once cleaned they seemed a little more responsive.

 

I'm very keen to see how you provide the extra power as I have another base but it needs to be repaired as it has a blown mosfet (i think that's right).

 

Anyway keep up the good work and I look forward to visiting your track as I have heard it's a must see.

 

Regards,

 

Tony

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Hi Guys,

Pics as requested for powering of Lane Changers seperately, this will vastly improve your system as your standard Scalextric wall warts can now dedicate all their power to the rails (cars).

Another tip power both of the power inputs that scaley supply.

 

 

IMG_0334.jpg

 

Remove cover of LC, in this case I have chosen to use a straight lane changer.

 

 

IMG_0335.jpg

 

Pop board out for a sec

 

 

IMG_0336.jpg

 

Desolder

 

 

IMG_0337.jpg

 

Add extensions, cut small section out of cover and track so track sits evenly.

 

Youll need a third party PSU (power supply unit) of 12 to 13.8 volts and allow 1 amp per lane chage as a general rule.

 

Join wires to 3rd party PSU in parallel but in series is ok too.

 

Credit for this mod actually goes to an Aussie on another forum by the nic of Drummer and was the first major mod devised and still to this day the most beneficial mod you can do.

 

Cheers


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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Hi Guys,

This mod is known as the multiple powerbase mod. This is a simple mod but hard to get right, I wrecked one powerbase to get this done, but was worth it.

The mod involves a master PB and a Slave PB, Use only two version 1.5's, do not use versions 1.2 to 1.4

On the master youll need to solder 3 wires we will call A, B and E for earth

On the slave you will have 3 solder points also, luckily identical to master, we will alsio call them A, B and E for earth.

On the slave we also need to make 2 cuts in the board to isolate and ignore the "brains" of the Slave, all we want from the Slave is the ability to pass 5 more amps to the rails.

 

 

slaveearth.jpg

Pic showing solder point E on master, its the same on slave, so E goes to E.

 

 

 

IMG_0341.jpg

Pic showing E on board (Earth)

 

 

mastertop.jpg

Pic showing solder point A on master, its the same on slave, so A goes to A

 

 

IMG_0340.jpg

Pic showing where A is on board

 

 

masterbottom.jpg

Pic showing solder point B is on master, its the same on slave, so B goes to B

 

 

 

IMG_0339.jpg

Pic showing where B is on board

 

slavecuts.jpg

Pic showing 2 cuts in tracks that are crucial

 

 

IMG_0344.jpg

Pic showing where the cuts are on the board, just near the IC

 

Both master and slave should be powered simultaneously from the same PSU.

 

When you turn them on both should light up as per normal.

 

Controls buttons on slave are now useless.

 

Use master to program.

 

Mark PB's as Master and Slave to stop confusion.

 

If the car goes flat out you blown something, you can test the master by trying to use it normally, but you can test both master and slave using a multimeter which I can explain later.

 

If the car hops foward then stops, then hops foward then you have also blown something.

Generally the slave blows if at all.

To recap the power and sensor wires on the master are left as per normal and also on the slave, make sure the powerbase track pieces are in the same direction when joining together.

 

You now have lots of grunt. Run 6 magnet cars hard all night long on 16 volts no overloads ;)

Combine this with the Lseperately powered LC's and youll have a nice grunty system. Next youll need to upgrade yor PSU's which Ill go into in the next post.

Add a fan to each as so

 

IMG_0246-1.jpg

 

 

Note my PB's are isolated from track and hidden away.

Note also they quickly plug and unplug for repairs, experiments etc.

Use 50 amp Anderson plugs for power and a 12 pin plug for sensor track piece wiring. If you isolate the slave just cut the sensor wires off or use them for sector timing. to do this run a cable from aux out to PC and use various software to implement pit stops, sector timing. We use a 3rd PB on workbench for programming cars to speed events up.

 

Credit for this mod goes to a couple of UK lads off Slotforum, Rich G and Rikorocket.

 

Cheers

Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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Hi Aussiesloter,

 

it's not bad but the cars seemed a little sluggish at first but that may have been due to dusty track. Once cleaned they seemed a little more responsive.

 

 

 

Regards,

 

Tony

Hi Tony,

As the rails carry the power to motor and signal to car chip if the track connection is poor you will also get digital glitches, not just loss of power. Functions like braking, lane changing suffer severly. Youll also start changing lanes when you dont want to and another situation where car goes full speed.

So its crucial you crimp all track connections and add one power tap at least every 3 metres. And clean rails once a month say. Add a larger PSU say 20 volt variable minimum 25 amps and do the seperately powered LC mod and thats the main issues addressed. The digital system itself uses at least 1amp just to operate the system, so 13.8 volts on PSU may equate to equivalent at track of 12 volts. So adding a PSU that can reach say 16 volts will give you the equivalent 14 volts at the rails, even though a multimeter would read 16 volts across the rails. i sometimes run it at 18 volts and gives the equivalent of 16 at the rails.

Hope this helps.

Cheers.


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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Hi Rick,

 

Thanks for the comments they are much appreicated. I have another couple of questions to ask. :lol:

 

1)What is the best way to check the voltage across the rails on a digital system, I don't want to go and blow anyhting up in the power base.

 

2)In regards to crimping the track connections how is this actually done and do you need a special piece of track to connect a power tap.

 

3) What do you recommend for cleaning SSD track

 

My 4 Laner has a variable PSU which i'll use to run this track instead of the Scaley ones, they wont go to waste as i'll use on the LC's.

 

 

 

Regards,

Tony

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@In the Groove,

Just use a $10 multimeter (set to volts)across rails, wont overload it.

Re crimping, study the end section where the female bit is, simply use a tiny screwdriver and flex sides in to make a tighter fit, and check the male lug is tight by pressing the rail lug tight against plastic.

Re power taps just use figure of 8 cable and solder to track underneath, cheaper and better than buying Scaley ones which clip on and, but are good for smaller tracks if you want a quick fix. Keep sourcing each power tap from the same place though, (parallel), otherwise a weak link will make a powertap a waste of time.

On my track I ran a thick cable all the way around the track under the table and tap off it with smaller gauge wire every 2 metres or so, be careful not to mix polarity, but its ok to join from rail to rail as digital is just one big track, unlike analogue.

Re cleaning rails I just use warm soapy water just mildly damp on a very old worn out plastic scourer (wont scratch) and dry with a clean cloth, nothing fancy. Its unbelievable the grime that comes off.

Now the test, it should run the same speed all the way round with controller held in low range, if the cars slows in any particular section of track, keep at it till you find the weak link. Even new Scaley track is sometimes suspect.

 

Re PSU, what you will ultimately need is a regulated type to absorb all the surging etc. maybe yours is. Thats why I love the D3800.

Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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Hi Guys,

At last have added a 2nd "slave" powerbase, so now 3 powerbases are used to get power to rails, a total of 15 amps, now even Sports Racer (Paul) will be happy with the power. Will post pics when I install a new sliding shelf.

Cheers


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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Good on ya, Rick. When's the first race with the new system? :rolleyes:


Stu

 

Old racers race harder

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