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Lotus24

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Hi Lotus 24 - I'm sorry but I can't answer your question - I am not in love with Enamels... nor Tamiya acrylics.

I have to ask, why do you want a retarder for Enamel?... it is slow drying at the best of times.

Perhaps you seek a "leveller"?... something which will allow the paint to flow out better... 

Enamel thinners will do this, but at the risk of compromising the very hard wearing effect of enamel.

 

If I were to suggest an alternative - taek a peek at SMS paints... made here in Oz... 

Scott is a fellow modeller, and set up the business to satisfy the needs of "local" market... which he has done more than successfully.

He has recently released a new range, which is brushable... or can be thinned down for airbrush use.

His "premium" range of airbrush paints are to behold - they are simply brilliant to use, and hard wearing... as opposed to Tamiya acrylic, which I find I can still imprint fingerprints into a well finished surface months after painting... such is not the case with SMS..

If you are looking for a very hard wearing clear coat - nothing comes close to his "Ultra-Clear" 2K kit... but, be warned - this stuff is iso-cyanate - exactly the same as the auto shops used to use.... it's brilliant paint, and is almost diamond hard - yet flexible... ideal for our application. It is only this "Ultra clear" which is 2K... the rest is very similar to automotive acrylic... 

 

Further, on his website - he explains the correct term of relevant types of paint... and it is clearly evident that his term "acrylic lacquer" is correct.... as opposed to Tamiya "acrylic" which is quite different.

Let me know if I can suggest an answer to your retarder issue.... me? SMS.... I have boxes of Tamiya and other brands which will more than likely go into some dark corner storage space and I'll forget I have them.... 

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01
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Does SMS Ultra-clear play nice with decals - especially Pattos?

I bought some Zero paint clear - I used it on one car and doubt if I will use it again. I did get a tiny bit of decal crinkle which I salvaged (Indycal decals not Pattos) but I found the finish wasn't as shiny as I was expecting - which didn't bother me too much as I don't like super shiny cars I prefer cars that have a race day finish to them. However occasionally there is car you want to finish as a showroom car rather than a race day. But I just found it didn't go on as easily as I thought it would.

cheers

David

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Hi David,

I am about to put a bit of a post together on SMS.. although I believe I have previously done this when first I found them....

So far, I'm really impressed with the range that I have thus far purchased and used - the Ultra Clear 2K is probably the standout of any clear coat I have used in all my hobbies and interests.... it simply glosses up to a magnificent depth.. and a clarity that has to be seen to be believed.

I have not applied it directly over Patto's decals yet.. but have overcoated previously Pascoe's floor polish ones with absolutely no degradation.

My little XU-1 Torana (see below) is an example... 

Patto's decals are exacting, the black leaves a little to be desired - whatever he is printing large areas of it with leaves a "pattern"... you may be able to pick this out.

In the pic below, you can see a generous coat of Ultra Clear over the entire model.. including a mix ot Tamiya red and some others that i had to use to get the red I wanted.... 

The issue I have found with Tamiya is that it remains "printable".. and even after months, any pressing of your fingers into a really even and gloss surface will result in them being imbedded into the finish... 

I over coated the entire model with Ultra Clear and it is rock solid... Scott tells us that it is either "sandable" or can be polished out after 24 hours at 24C... I left mine three days and am currently polishing out some dust and other marks... the stuff is absolutely rock hard - even with Tamiya underneath.. 

I will also report, that I have found it works a treat on Molotow chrome... and I have coated many small parts which have been sitting for 4 moths - the coating of Ultra Clear has not dulled nor reduced the mirror finish in those parts... I have another batch of Molotow parts curing out and will over-coat those in a week's time.. maybe a fortnight... I am really hoping I can preserve that great mirror chrome that Molotow produces... if Ultra Clear will do this - I believe I may have stumbled onto something which will be used exclusively for chrome parts on our slot cars which cop an awful lot of abuse... 

Back to the OP (apologies for swamping)... I am yet to learn of any way to slow enamel paint down from drying - the blasted stuff will not dry quick enough for me... it is one of the slowest drying/curing paints I have used... I believe a thinner may be what you seek .. for it to flow out better, but of course - this will demand multiple coats and possibly some "keying" in between them - enamel does not stick well to gloss (except glass - which has always been a paradox for me)...... enamel will not "fuse" into previous coats - so, must be given a "keying" (sanding) of the surface for it to get a grip... or it will chip/peel/flake.. and this is more likely with our slot car hobby... 

Will update my SMS thread - or create one if I haven't yet done so... this SMS paint is simply amazing, and I would urge everyone who airbrushes to at least try a bottle.. I believe it will change you choice in paints..

 

frats,

Rosco

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Oops, forgot the pic.

This model is nowhere near finished - I have "work" to do on those front fender vents.. but, the body is now coated with a generous coat of Ultra Clear... 

The chassis is done, so too the wheel inserts. 

I simply have too many models on the workbench at present - I completed a "Mr. Slotcar" McLaren M6A this evening - in a "colour shift" SMS paint called "Black Hole".. and overcoated it with Ultra Clear.. it has come up a treat... report later in one of my own threads... 

I have yet to sort out an interior for the LJ - and fit my hand made brass grille... headlights and a few adornments - it's really not that far off, but too many other models are screaming at me for attention... 

You can see the Molotow on the bumpers... it was a little dulled prior to coating Ultra Clear over it.... but it certainly didn't lose any more .. I'm keen to try it on the freshly Molotow painted parts I have curing out... 

The pic does not do the gloss and depth of the clear coat justice... and it is rock hard, yet the body can flex... I believe this to be a perfect medium for slot cars... only danger is - you have to dress up like an astronaut before you spray... I made a spray booth with three small computer fans some time back, and have a hose at the rear which vents the nasty stuff outside the garage - where I do most of my airbrushing... 

 

 

Apologies once again to the OP for the digression... 

 

LJ pic..

 

IMG-2160.jpg

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01
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Oldskool 62,

with the LJ Torana I did... but left it sit for months before doing any more work to it - when I found SMS Ultra Clear, I decided to do a very small test of it over the floor polish - and it came up a treat... I then gave the entire body a good coating of it..... over the full body, including Molotow with floor polish, the red acrylic self-mixed paint and the floor polish coated decals... 

I have not had any satisfaction with using floor polish over Patto's decals..... I cannot get the even coating with high gloss that I prefer..... Ultra Clear affords this.

I am yet to experiment with Ultra Clear directly over Patto's decals... but have high hopes... 

 

OP - I'll move future discussion on this to a thread of my own... and we can kick it on from there... 

Apologies for digressing from your original thread on a retarder for enamel...

 

frats,

Rosco

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Thanks for the replys,some good information there.the question seems to have raised some interesting points to follow up on.

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16 hours ago, rosco01 said:

Hi Lotus 24 - I'm sorry but I can't answer your question - I am not in love with Enamels... nor Tamiya acrylics.

I have to ask, why do you want a retarder for Enamel?... it is slow drying at the best of times.

Perhaps you seek a "leveller"?... something which will allow the paint to flow out better... 

Enamel thinners will do this, but at the risk of compromising the very hard wearing effect of enamel.

 

If I were to suggest an alternative - taek a peek at SMS paints... made here in Oz... 

Scott is a fellow modeller, and set up the business to satisfy the needs of "local" market... which he has done more than successfully.

He has recently released a new range, which is brushable... or can be thinned down for airbrush use.

His "premium" range of airbrush paints are to behold - they are simply brilliant to use, and hard wearing... as opposed to Tamiya acrylic, which I find I can still imprint fingerprints into a well finished surface months after painting... such is not the case with SMS..

If you are looking for a very hard wearing clear coat - nothing comes close to his "Ultra-Clear" 2K kit... but, be warned - this stuff is iso-cyanate - exactly the same as the auto shops used to use.... it's brilliant paint, and is almost diamond hard - yet flexible... ideal for our application. It is only this "Ultra clear" which is 2K... the rest is very similar to automotive acrylic... 

 

Further, on his website - he explains the correct term of relevant types of paint... and it is clearly evident that his term "acrylic lacquer" is correct.... as opposed to Tamiya "acrylic" which is quite different.

Let me know if I can suggest an answer to your retarder issue.... me? SMS.... I have boxes of Tamiya and other brands which will more than likely go into some dark corner storage space and I'll forget I have them.... 

 

frats,

Rosco

Thanks Roscoe,you given me plenty of useful info' there,i will check out SMS.Im only a couple of hours across the tasman,so shouldnt be a problem.

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You have a lear jet?... the domestic inter-island (NZ to Oz) carriers take three hours... 

Yes, chase down your local hobby store (LHS).. you might find they carry the range of Premium paints.. I'm not sure that Scott has begun to ship internationally yet.. but I'm certain he will ship to customers in other countries..

I ned to know if you are using an airbrush or are hand painting using a hair brush?.. 

My guess is that you are hand painting - hence the need to flow out enamel paint... is this correct?

 

frats,

Rosco

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