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Molds and Castings

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HI folk,

I put up a question to the forum a little while back and it didn't "snag" any response... so, I'm starting a thread on the topic... 

Mods - please delete or re-direct if one has already been made... I did a search, but it did not come up with any topic, just some mention of Pinkysil.. 


So... went on line yesterday and again today... in search for Pinkysil.... each link I chased returned the same result "none in stock".. unless I wanted to go for 10 kg's of it... 


I then phoned the proprietor company, Barnes - who have a retail store in Brunswick, Melbourne... and the lovely young lass told me she had some on the shelf.... I gave her my name - and set off.... an hour's journey in the truck (has Navman)... and a nightmare of traffic in the Brunswick/Sydney Road area.... 

Went into the store and quickly grabbed the last 1 kg kit off the shelf..... 

I then asked about casting material - told her it was for model train parts and possibly looking at something which could withstand some punishment... as in a slot car body etc.... no intention of doing one at this stage... I have a Datsun 280Z that might get done... but I'm more focused on parts... 

She directed me to another Barnes product called "Easy Cast"... which has some flexibility, but is very viscous... meaning it should result in very high detail... so, I bought the 1.9 kg pack of that as well.

Walking up to the counter, I spotted some modeling clay... and have read in this forum the issues with using some varying types of clay to make perimeter boundaries and filling apertures of items to be cast etc.... asked her how it reacted with both Pinkysil and Easycast... "made for it"... was the reply - so, bought a 1 kg slab of that as well.... oil based modeling clay, non-hardening. 


So, folk... I'm armed.... I have some locomotive bogie sideframes to make a casting up first... which is why I wanted to chase this up a few weeks back.. but I am considering having a bash at making a mold of the brass grille I made for the LJ.... 


I have many Dow Corning silicone molding rubber Type E molds that I'm hoping the Easy Cast will work well with... I am keen to see how good it is for the very fine detail results I got from the Type E.... 


Ok - pic.... 




any suggestions... and, has anyone used Easy Cast before... any tips... it looks very "fluid" to me... working time of 2 minutes - cure time 15 min plus.... 

Also, any tips for using PInkysil and the modeling clay.... the clay is re-usable... I'll keep all of these products in a dark and fairly constant temp storage area.... 




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I ended up making a tiny bowl with the clay and poured a little Pinkysil in to test, actually made three bowls from three different clays. 

Cheers Grant


Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C


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Thanks Grant.

My plan is to almost repeat what I did when I cast molds of train parts 40 years ago... 
I used (still have it) a sheet of glass about 6" x 6".... that is the base on which I mounted my prepared parts.

I made up a "fence" around the mold using icy pole sticks held together with cyano... and reinforced on the glass plate with chunks of plasticine.

I also held the parts on the glass plate with plasticine...just a very thin film of it -but enough to prevent them sliding around or getting out of place on the glass sheet.

I then mixed up my Type E and brushed the first film over the areas likely to trap air bubbles... once I had a coating on everything - I simply poured in the rest.


I made up a vacuum chamber by using a Pyrex lid... the base was a piece of laminex board with a thin layer of neoprene rubber over it.. this provided the seal for the Pyrex lid.

I had an old compressor and simply connected up a hose to the inlet of that.... so, I had vacuum. 

Because the Type E took up to three days to cure out.. and the mix was very thick - it would "ooze" rather than flow... I had to keep the chamber under vacuum for about 10 minutes... for all the air bubbles to come to the surface... then I could slowly destroy the vacuum and the Type E would settle back down into the frame.... I was amazed at how many tiny bubble continue to come the surface and "pop" - even up to 10 minutes.... 


Once cured out - the molds were perfect..... I made one of a $2 coin.. and even a fingerprint on the surface of the later casting was as clear as that on the coin... Type E was a great molding media - but very expensive and tricky to work with... I'm hoping this Pinkysil will be a lot easier, and I won't need to rebuild my "chamber"... 


As for the casting media - I have used Araldite "M" before - and wasn't really happy with that... I did quite a few castings with it, but only to use up the stuff.... it simply wouldn't hold shape.. and often deformed in just a short period of time.

My favorite casting media was Plasti-bond... and I made quite a number of successful railway model casts from it... I still have them, and they are as good as the day I made them... see pix.... top - the original in clear gloss.... ,bottom - a Plasti-bond copy finished in Estapol satin... 


I have never used modeling clay before - so, this will be a new stage in modeling for me... I don't yet know how it holds it shape when fitted to something and the Pinkysil is poured over it.... how firm it remains, or what results in the mold when it is removed... in apertures, it's possible to doing some lettering identification work... just messing with thoughts at present....






Clone - this was my first ever attempt at both making a mold and casting from it.

You can see in this clone, the I had not removed all the air bubbles from the surface of the original.. when the mold was made.

If you look at the hinge and latch area, you can see lots of little round "bumps"... there is also one under the top rail of the wagon... mid-way across the right.

I made about 20 of these wagons to make up an empty wheat train.... they all have these "bumps".... all cloned alike.

They can be easily flicked off with a sharp scalpel, but at that stage in my experimenting - I was not aware of this.


The pix have both models a little distorted... I just shot them as they are on display on one of the shelves in this room - using my little Box Brownie... up very close, hence the distortion in profile...





I have made around 30 molds ... this was the first one. They improved a heck of a lot once I invented my vacuum chamber set-up.... and even better still when I began to brush a thin film over the parts before pouring in the body of the mold.... 


We'll see what comes of Pinkysil - but first, I will mix up some Ezy Cast and try it out in a railway model mold.... hope the forum doesn't mind if I post results here.... I simply don't have any slot car related molds yet.. but, they will come... 




Edited by rosco01

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Easycast is great to use, comes out with a white finish and is more flexible (has a bit more give) than Pro cast which comes out more of an off white/ beige colour.

The only downside is that you have 2 mins to work with it compared to 5 mins with the Procast.

I've used both for bodies, wings, figures etc and have no problems using either product.

I've found that with the heat in my shed the Easycast bodies tend to go out of shape slightly whereas the Procast retain their original shape from the mold.

Saying that if it does go out of shape slightly a little warm water and you can easily reshape it.

I use Mad Clay from my local Pottery shop and have had no problems with it reacting to the Pinksil or the resin.

Even stick it back in it's bag to be reused for the next project.

I find that working with the clay allows you to prepare the item to be molded better than the plasticine which I first tried.

The more you use the Easy/Procast the easier it will be, I can pretty much make a body now by slush mold without any irregularities.

Still ask myself what can I make next.



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Thanks Matt, exactly the reply I was hoping for... 

I will mess around with a few of the railway Type E molds that are 40 years old, and look like they were made yesterday... 

Nothing extravagant... but I should get a feel for this Easy Cast.... I knocked out many models from those molds - some of them a little tricky, requiring brass rod to be incorporated in some of the more delicate parts... once painted, no-one would ever know.. and they simply don't fracture... 

Hope to have something up tomorrow night.. 


Pinky sill will follow - maybe just something small at first.... until I find out how that responds to what I intend to do with it.


As for slush casting - no, not at this stage... no intention of doing a full body as a single mold or cast. The parts for the railway model were all molded before assembly.... so, I am just making parts... have never done a full mold.. and probably don't have one on the horizon.

I will not copy another person's work either.. I'm pretty fussy about my own hand made stuff.. and respect those who have provided me with their work... there are two great suppliers on this forum.. I have no intention of interfering with their great service... 




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Those three Barnes products get my tick of approval......




John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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These products are easy to use especially compared to the old Dow Corning material of years ago.I still have many white moulds from years ago.
Just remember that Pinkysil cures very quickly as does easy cast. 
The high temperatures last week made both cure too fast.

Edited by kalbfellp



Hobart Miniature Car Club


Tassie Resins










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Thanks John and Phil... noted.

I don't have any issue with copying company manufactured models, as far as I am aware - once you purchase something - you are allowed to copy it - but for your own personal use only.. which is my practice.... won't be copying anything of yours.. if I want more of what you have sent me, I'll re-order - your castings are superb.


No plans for using Pinkysil for a while yet.. but should have some castings made up from some of my railway molds in a day or two... 


"Life" stuff has got in the way of modeling for the next few days, so I'll probably be a bit quiet on the forum until we come out the other side.... just normal stuff, but it seems to all have come up at once.... 

thanks again,



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I use all over those products. The clay is great a lot better than the stuff I first used which left an oily residue on everything.

I made my self some of these mould boxes. I have some left over perspex which I used to make a big box for moulding bodies and a smaller box for doing tyre moulds.


I also made some boxes out of plastic card and old credit cards - superglued and taped.

They are great because you can easily and quickly make a mould box of any size. I form the clay around the perimeter to seal the box and stop the silicone escaping. I use an old wall tile for my moulding.



Edited by dangermouse

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