Motor brackets

[Caddo 33]

G'day,

Anyone know where to find the brackets to allow a short can motor to fit into a Slot It long can motor mount?

Slot It used to supply them, but can't seem to find them anywhere.

Thanks for any info

Rgds

[big den 10]

G'day Caddo.

Are you looking for brackets, or perhaps adapters, that support the plastic bell end of a short can motor?

In other words, a part that 'lengthens' the short can motor so that it occupies the same space as a long-can motor?

In the past I have used Ninco adapters that allow (for instance) an NC1 motor to fit into a chassis designed for the longer NC5 motor. Of course, trying to obtain certain Ninco parts at present is virtually impossible.

Another option is to buy the Team Slot adapter pack (part number 52029) which contains 5 adapters including the one you may be looking for. I have been able to purchase these fairly recently from Pendle Slot in England via my friend Phil in Hobart.

There is a school of thought that believes the adapter is not necessary if the short can motor has screw-fixing holes in the can end i.e. the screws alone are sufficient to hold the motor in place.

Perhaps an enterprising 3D printing producer could look into making some of the products that are unobtainable from retail sources.

Den

 

[Chrisguyw 41]

12 hours ago, big den said:

G'day Caddo.

Are you looking for brackets, or perhaps adapters, that support the plastic bell end of a short can motor?

There is a school of thought that believes the adapter is not necessary if the short can motor has screw-fixing holes in the can end i.e. the screws alone are sufficient to hold the motor in place.

Den

 

You are correct Den,..if motors screws are used (on the can end and on the rear bulkhead of the pod).....adapters are absolutely not required. If the particular pod does not have screw holes, they can easily be drilled, or the motor can be glued in with ShoeGoo/E6000 etc, with zero fear of failure, regardless if you are situating the motor in a can end or endbell drive configuration.

Thousands of motors have been attached to motor brackets  with screws only over the last 50+  years,......and many many racers currently employ this method.

Cheers

Chris Walker

 

All of the following pics. are of cars that went through rather long proxies (10+ rounds) with absolutely no issues.

An FC-130 secured via motor screws only,...in a "longcan" pod

And another.......

A FC-130 in a "longcan" anglewinder pod........motor screws,....no adapter

A heavily reworked (very fast/lots of torque) 26D motor in a Vintage Champion chassis......motor screws only, and, on the endbell end

 

An FC-130,.........this one just glued in with E6000/ShoeGoo stuff.

If you have an overwhelming desire to purchase/use a motor adapter, be my guest, but, they are totally unnecessary !! 

[big den 10]

Hi  Chris.

Having watched many episodes of the Worldwide Slot Car Chat you were the 'school of thought' I had in mind when mentioning the practice of securing short can motors in long can pods using screws alone..

Considering my lack of mechanical aptitude I'd favour the Shoo-Gooing option rather than attempting to drill holes in motors that don't already have them. I can see myself unwittingly converting 3-pole motors into 1-pole motors very easily unless the motors were disassembled first.

By the way is that 'heavily reworked 26D' a Champion Arco? I remember using them in 1:24 racing back in the 1970s and they were competitive with the Mura 22Bs of the day on our club tracks in Tasmania.

Den

 

[Chrisguyw 41]

1 hour ago, big den said:

Hi  Chris.

Having watched many episodes of the Worldwide Slot Car Chat you were the 'school of thought' I had in mind when mentioning the practice of securing short can motors in long can pods using screws alone..

Considering my lack of mechanical aptitude I'd favour the Shoo-Gooing option rather than attempting to drill holes in motors that don't already have them. I can see myself unwittingly converting 3-pole motors into 1-pole motors very easily unless the motors were disassembled first.

By the way is that 'heavily reworked 26D' a Champion Arco? I remember using them in 1:24 racing back in the 1970s and they were competitive with the Mura 22Bs of the day on our club tracks in Tasmania.

Den

 

Hi Den, when I said drilling holes, I meant on the bulkhead of the pod, not, the motor.......my mistake, I should have been more clear.........and I do not recommend drilling/tapping  the sealed motors commonly used in 1/32 "plastic" racing, as during the process, small metal bits/filings can get caught in the can and bugger things up.

And you are correct, the 26D is a Champion can with Arcos' (freshly zapped) and shims !!.......it has also had the motor shaft replaced with a drill blank shaft, is has been rewound/dynamically balanced, a larger diameter comm installed and trued, and reworked brush hood and barrels to accept 36D sized "goldust" motor brushes.....heat sinks and piano wire brush springs finish it up ..............goes well 

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

 

 

[Sports Racer 28]

I've sometimes used a piece of rubber hose, cut and trimmed to shape to fill in the gap between the short can motor and the long can pod. Make sure the internal dia of the hosepipe is the same size as the protrusion on the end of the small can and the outside dia is big enough for the job.

Very cheap and effective alternative.

Edited January 5 by Sports Racer

[SlotsNZ 115]

Now Chris, posting all these pictures of perfect chassis, totally devoid of tyre shavings, grease, and general cr@%, just makes us feel guilty about our cars.

Couldn't you post pictures of a chassis that just came back from 15 rounds of proxy abuse, totally in the "wild" state.

Just once . . . .  It would make us feel like you don't live in an alternate build-reality where bots arrive overnight, restore every chassis to pristine state, then place them back ready for the next war.       

[gazza 77]

I've printed off plenty of different combinations for all the different Mabuchi style motors, feel free to pm me.

[Caddo 33]

Thanks to all, guess I know why they stopped making the brackets now!!

Rgds Caddo

[big den 10]

Gazza,

I will PM you about your printed Mabuchi adapters shortly.

While mounting motors into chassis by either screwing or gluing is a fairly common solution there are situations where using adapters may be the only suitable method.

Many will remember the adapters that allowed the Johnson 111 motors in 1970s Scalextric F1 cars to be replaced by an S-Can motor.

In a similar vein, recently I decided to replace the slow (?) RX-style motor in an SCX McLaren M9A with a Johnson 111. I used 2 of the adapters from the Team Slot 52029 set and although the rear adapter fitted in neatly I had to do quite a bit of drilling  and sanding of the front adapter to enable the retaining lugs to snap neatly into the chassis.

It would be nice to have a 'Goldilocks' solution where adapters were not Too Big not Too Small, but Just Right.

With the entry of the FF050 motor into the hobby (fitted as standard to some Scalextric and Policar models) it would be great to be able to retro-fit older cars with cheap slimline motors. All that's needed is suitable adapters.

Over to you 3D printers!

Den

 

[SlotsNZ 115]

You should throw this one to Bingo in our club, he speaks “CAD” like it was his native tongue

[mtpanorama 3]

9 hours ago, big den said:

 

Many will remember the adapters that allowed the Johnson 111 motors in 1970s Scalextric F1 cars to be replaced by an S-Can motor.

In a similar vein, recently I decided to replace the slow (?) RX-style motor in an SCX McLaren M9A with a Johnson 111. I used 2 of the adapters from the Team Slot 52029 set and although the rear adapter fitted in neatly I had to do quite a bit of drilling  and sanding of the front adapter to enable the retaining lugs to snap neatly into the chassis.

It would be nice to have a 'Goldilocks' solution where adapters were not Too Big not Too Small, but Just Right.

 

Den, Scalextric also did adapters for the Johnson 111 to fit into the RX motor hole that fit without drilling or sanding. So if you do that swap again have a look around.