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M2 Allen Keys

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It seems I'm in a permanent pickle when it comes to using this rather insignificant little tool....

 

Too often I find my Allen key burred over and slipping inside the screw, very frustrating, and  although I have to constantly remind myself to be a little gentle I still seem to be having far too many  recurring issues,

 

So, my fellow forum friends, I'm reaching out to you to try and find a suitable solution, is there a better one to be had? I presently use NSR replacement tips, I have a couple of burred out SlotIt types here as well(unusable).

 

Any help is much appreciated,

 

Terry

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Rule #1 - Don't use knackered hex keys or drivers

Rule #2 - Don't use knackered grub screws

Rule #3 - If your hex key or driver isn't worn and it skips when tightening the grub screw, do your utmost to remove that grub screw and move it swiftly into the garbage

Rule #4 - Keep a good supply of grub screws, they're cheap as chips

Rule #5 - replace hex screws with Torx screws and Torx driver - you'll never look back


Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...B)

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I probably build 25 - 30 new cars a year, as well as maintaining those I race weekly.
I use 

a) A ScaleAuto torque driver - replaceable tip. I eventually broke the tip on the ScaleAuto one day when I dropped it. So I replaced the tip with one from the cheap M2 drivers you can buy on EBay.
It has been working fine for about 2 years on the cheap tip, I  haven't had to replace it even once. The tool itself is about 7 years old.

b) A Slot.it torque driver (non-replaceable tip)

The Slot.it one which is a bit small for my meat hands, sits in my mobile box, and so gets less use. It is about 5 years old, still working.

IMO - no need to muck around with torx screws, especially if like me, you have over 100 running cars on M2....
Just buy a torque driver, so you CAN'T over-tighten.

And if anyone says "the torque tools don't tighten up enough" 
Well, I don't recall ever having a wheel fall off, or a spur gear slip.

 


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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#1 rule for me is replace any Slot It grub screws with better quality alternative, generally have a deeper key way.

I just use a basic key with out torque setting, and find better quality grub screws let you tighten firmly without ever stripping. 

Have bought stainless steel 2mm grub screws at a reasonable price, best thing I have bought.

My only real gripe about any Slot It parts is their grub screws are crap

 

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There are several types of stainless grub screws.

I replace all my original grub screws with either stainless or Unbraco.
I nothing special in the way of Hex drivers, was using Slotting Plus but found a good source of cheap Hex drivers and now use them.


Phil

 

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$5 each with free shipping on ebay

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hex-Wrench-Driver-0-9mm-White-Steel-Allen-Screwdriver-For-R-C-Helicopter-10/264888104844?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I normally buy 3 at a time and they last me about 6 months each before I manage to snap the end off through my own clumsiness.

 

 

Edited by Sports Racer

May the downforce be with you.

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19 hours ago, Sports Racer said:

$5 each with free shipping on ebay

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hex-Wrench-Driver-0-9mm-White-Steel-Allen-Screwdriver-For-R-C-Helicopter-10/264888104844?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I normally buy 3 at a time and they last me about 6 months each before I manage to snap the end off through my own clumsiness.

 

I bought similar, the 1.5mm was good, the 0.9mm was loose and measured 0.8mm so ordered another which was OK...still great after 6 months.

Edited by Kevan

Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...B)

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