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Vinno

Scalextric A9X Torana Brock Richards Bathurst 1979

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Yeah I just used the L34 tyres, and they are a good fit, but don't forget to round the outer edges.

Good idea on giving it a run without the interior, I'll do that tonight and get back to you.


A man without a woman is like a neck without a pain.

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I tried it without the interior, and yes 0.3 sec faster, so I modified an interior out of another car that was half the weight, and now it's about 0.2 sec faster than before.

I've gone from 6.8 secs a lap to 6.6, and I'm happy with that.

 

Cheers

Andrew


A man without a woman is like a neck without a pain.

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Sounds good, Andrew..... I was also considering "flush" fitting the windows and getting rid of that extra weight of the insert up high in the model.... 

Depends how "robust" you want the model to remain, I guess..... an errant finger from a steward might punch a flush mounted window back in.... 

but, again - considerable weight from where we don't want it can be chopped out of the model... flush fitting of windows is always a much more appreciative appearance..... 

In r/c flying of aircraft.. I use a product called "canopy glue".... it remains slightly flexible - yet has considerable strength... I apply many coats of this in small amounts until I get the "fill" I need and also the strength... most of he weight evaporates as the glue dries out... 

 

the product is called "Formula 560" made by Pacer.... (USA) 

clear fast drying

bonds canopies and plastic parts to almost anything

remains flexible when set

 

I then use Tamiya "rubber black" to fine line it .... which results in a realistic rubber windscreen "rubber".... 

 

If I can't get a satisfactory result from the supplied windows insert - I will make up my own... from either cellulose or perspex sheet.. cut exactly to size or maybe a thou undersize to allow for the glue.... 

I have used a Coke bottle for a rounded front windscreen on a slot car..... my 1970 purchase (at age 15) Scalextric Lamborghini Muira - which I smashed the entire insert.... 

These bottles have an amazing number of curved option areas.... and are almost indestructible..... and just so cheap.

You can polish them with Tamiya plastic compound.... and a calico buffing pad in a Dremel.... 

 

good work on your times.. 

 

Forgot - I am coming up with another plan.......

if you want to get a bit more, replace the front axle.... I like to use Slot-It hollow axles for the faster cars I have.... the wheels are retained using eyelets.

What this does, is allows the front wheel to revolve independently of the other one..... you'll find that you can get through corners quicker - no drag from the inside wheel slowing down the outside one.... 

The downside, is that if you need to fit new tyres - you have to destroy any insert to release the eyelet.

 

In my current LJ/LC Torana build - I'm going to experiment with mounting this axle as two stub axles.... 

That is, cut the axle ends off - fit the wheels to them (and inserts etc).... then fit the stub axles into a very close fitting tube, or box section... and retain the stub axle using a grub screw through the tube/box..... 

This way, if I need to "service" the wheel - I can simply undo the grub and withdraw it.... fit both stubs/wheels/tyres to a section of tube and grub them in... then fit the assembly to a tyre truer..... when done, simply re-install to the model using the grubs.... no messing around with inserts and eyelets... they are a permanent fit.

All this is yet to be worked out - but, I have a plan.... it should work.

 

OK, gone way too far again...

 

frats,

Rosco

 

Edited by rosco01
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Funny you should mention RC aircraft, that is one of my other hobbies as well.

I have taken the Dremel to the windows already, and removed as much as I feel safe with.


A man without a woman is like a neck without a pain.

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Andrew, I don't think there is a conceivable hobby known to man that I haven't had....... and have kept everything..... I flitter into and out of each one as the will takes me... for now, I'm back into slot cars.... but, there are about three on the go at any one time.... 

The other two at present are r/c and fly fishing... mainly tying flies... 

 

Oh, and model railways - they have popped up again after a 20 year absence.... 

 

I fly fixed wing, drone and small heli's (mainly indoor with 4 channel heli's).... I was an instructor at the local field... then went dormant for many years, came back into the sport  after I found heli's...which were mode 2.... and converted myself to fly fixed wing in mode 2 - best thing ever I did with r/c... it just feels "right"... aileron/elevator on the right stick.. rudder stays the same - but you swap over throttle to the left stick.... 

In mode 2, you can fly with one arm stuck behind your back.... never messed with modes 3 or 4, but I know of people who have had strokes and lost the use of their right hand.... they use their nose to push up the throttle stick.. and avoid rudder altogether.... some just fly three channel - on the leftt stick and the "nose" for throttle on the right.... works for them.

 

I'm looked at as a  martian at our field.... mode 2 - frightens the bejesus out of most of them..... "cack handed" is another term.... but, when I take this laptop down to the field with Pheonix flight sim - and give them a whack at mode 2 - all of them love it.... until someone else comes into the room...... and they go hush about it.... 

 

Ok....again - 'nuff from me.... apologies (again and again) to the OP (Vinno).

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01
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I fly mode1 suits me just fine. I fly pattern and 3D planes, but not all that well, as I'm sure you can relate.

Fly fishing is on the retirement to do list.


A man without a woman is like a neck without a pain.

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I fly a bit of old timer (funny that) and sport - Gold Wing rated, started aerobatics - but left the sport before I began competition... could do all the "sportsman" pattern and some of the "advanced" - favorite was a three turn spin. Have all models I have built - three from kits, but the entire rest are from plans. 

Fly fishing - well, you won't have enough time in retirement to learn it..... so, make a start now - nothing too serious, but the earlier you learn to cast - the more you'll enjoy it later on.

Can pick up beginner level 6 weight rod/reel/line pretty cheaply these days.... floating line, weight forward.... learning to tie flies... a new world all of its own..... Charlie Craven's book would be the one I'd point you at..... pick that up now and start to appreciate just how easy some of the flies are to tie.... when, why and how to use them.... 

Like most hobbies - they will extract every Rubel you have.. if you let them...... there is always "more"... and the word "must" seems to be congruous in all of them... slot cars included.

 

We should start another thread, Andrew - Vinno would never have believed his thread could end up with fly fishing in it.....

 

frats,

Rosco

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Thanks Vinno..... I'll stick with the factory tyres for a spell... model hasn't hit the track yet... (basically because there isn't one until I put one together".. should be a bit of fun "in the wet" until I get sick of it and go with the MJK's... 

 

frats,

Rosco

 

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Question without notice..... decals. What are people using with Patto's decals... both in laying them down and settling them in. My Micro Sol and Set have just turned up, but Patto warns of using anything other than water on them.... and a floor polish to seal them in... 

Appreciate any suggestions..

 

frats,

Rosco

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32 minutes ago, rosco01 said:

Question without notice..... decals. What are people using with Patto's decals... both in laying them down and settling them in. My Micro Sol and Set have just turned up, but Patto warns of using anything other than water on them.... and a floor polish to seal them in... 

Appreciate any suggestions..

 

frats,

Rosco

I use Mr Mark Softer but only leave it for about 30 seconds and press into body grooves with a tissue. Then I wet another tissue with clean water and dab off the decal softener. 

I then brush on thinned acrylic clear once the decal is dry just over the decal and have no issues spraying on Tamiya enamel clear after that has dried. 

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Thanks Vinno.... I've got quite a few extra of Patto's decals that I probably won't use..... I'll have a play with differing things and try to find out what works and what products destroy his decals.... I'm not so fussed about the Marlboro ones for all the Scalextric Torries that I have.. but when it comes to applying these great decal sets (including pin-striping) for the LC and LJ - I want that to go without a hitch.... these models will look amazing if I get the decals right - they are a credit to Patto.... so too, the cast bodies from Munter - although I'll have to chop and change quite a bit to make an LC out of an LJ... but, I'll get there.... 

I have used Micro sol with model railways - and the stuff pulls down the decal perfectly to fit to shape of the intricate body detail.... like rivets and plates - at 1/87th scale....Micro Set will bring them down further if needed - but I fear Patto's decals won't stand the chemicals in them.. and I don't want to compromise the work he has done in printing them.. 

I have not used Humbrol decal fix yet... it was recommended to me by my model railway supplier - his telling me that it is no longer possible to get Micro solutions (which it is, I have just purchased enough to see me out in modeling).

Thanks for your info on how you have set them.... I can chase up Mr Mark Softer if I can't get either the Micro or Humbol ones to work without Patto's decals suffering.. 

I have Humbrol Clear Cote, Floquil Glaze or Tamiya clear as options for over-coating decals once they are dry.... I'm not sure which acrylic you refer to - but by what you post - I take it that Tamiya enamel clear will attack them... so, there is an acrylic clear you are using prior to that..... can you tell me which brand that is?

 

Thanks again... 

 

frats,

Rosco

 

frats,

Rosco

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Thanks again, Vinno - I have some of that.... I have two types of Tamiya thinner... "lacquer thinner" and x20-A... no idea what the difference is and it's too long ago since I used either of them to remember.... something is nagging me that I should use the lacquer thinner... I have three large bottles of that, and only one of the X20-A.

 

frats,

Rosco

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I’m not home this weekend so can’t check but I’m sure it isn’t l lacquer thinner it is the acrylic thinner you use with the acrylic paints. Same jar as the acrylic paints. I only use that to keep the clear nice and thin so it coats the decal smoothly. Learnt this from not thinning it  as it makes it brushed on. It soaks into the decal nicely. 

As you say experiment with some decals first So you work out a technique for your special builds. 

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Thanks Vinno - I should have avoided asking you the question - apologies.... I went to the Tamiya website.... X20A thinners is acrylic thinners, it's water based. Hence the "A" behind it... no idea what the 20 means...

The "X" series of paints are acrylic... and I have used both acrylic and lacquer thinners with them both.... 

X-20A is propanol/alcohol based (not recommended as a substitute for beer) and hence why it can be used directly on styrene and other sensitive plastics.

Lacquer thinner has ethylene glycol monobutyl and methyl isobutyl ketone.... it would be the ketone which would be the most aggressive of these solvents... 

I'll thin the acrylic (X series) clear coat with X-20A thinner... should be fine.. I can then go over the top with an enamel clearcoat... more than likely the Humbrol enamel clear that I have... it hardens and pulls down very nicely.... 

 

frats,

rosco

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Hi folk,

just attacked #2 A9-X bumper.... only thing I will touch on it - then it goes back into the box as a collector.

 

I found a better way of getting the bumper off - but it's delicate work. It saves a lot of hacking, but great care has to be taken - and it has to be done very slowly.

I used the finest engraving bit I have with the narrowest shaft... and went in from underneath - between the bumper and the indicator, there is enough room to work the engraver down until the bumper comes free.... 

It does not hack up the aperture of the model as badly as coming in from the rear of the front.... and gives greater control of how much material it taken away of the aperture.

I can now see that the reason all bumpers are fitted pointing to the heavens is due to the mounting rails of the bumper.. the top of them is inclined.... so, it's a bumper design issue - not a body one - one which Scalextric can rectify fairly easily when hopefully, they release the follow up Bathurst winner - and avoid me having to "kit bash" this model for a second season... 

 

Pix - all explanatory... much neater aperture created using a very sharp scalpel... the rear... and some styrene card blocks I used MEK to fuse into the bumper for mounting back into the apertures.... 

001-2-A9-X-bumper-mail.jpg

 

002-2-A9-X-bumper-mail.jpg

 

003-2-A9-X-bumper-mail.jpg

 

When the bumper blocks have fully cured out... I mount it to the body and take some pix to add here...

 

It's not a huge job - fairly easy, really... but - great care has to be taken with that Dremel... I suggest scribing a line with the back of a scalpel blade before attempting the first run with the engraver - it if goes wayward - it can do a lot of damage to the bumper, the indicators or if pushed too far - the headlight assembly...

 

frats,

Rosco

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