Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
big den

Thunderslot McLaren M6A Donohue

Recommended Posts

Hello from Tasmania everyone.

Yesterday I took delivery of a Thunderslot McLaren M6A - the dark blue Sunoco car as driven in real life by Mark Donohue.

From the video reviews on Home Racing World I'd heard that there were concerns about the 'scale accuracy' of this model, but the reviews did not  compare it side by side with any other models to allow me to gauge those scale issues.

Sitting here on my table beside a Revo Slot Ferrari 333SP the McLaren looks absolutely tiny. I am not sure what the relative dimensions of the two cars were in 1:1 scale but if the McLaren is considered by some to be over-scale then the 333SP must have been a huge car in real life.

Although the Thunderslot McLaren is noticeably wider than the Revell Monogram version it does not look out of place when sitting beside the RM Surtees Lola T70 - same rear track of 60mm, same body width, slightly longer wheelbase.

I don't have any NSR cars but I do remember sitting my Scalextric BMW Z4 beside an NSR version and needing to be told what the NSR body was supposed to be, such was the difference in appearance. So I would like to place the Thunderslot McLaren M6A beside the NSR Porsche 908 to compare widths and wheelbases etc.

It' will be a week or two before I am able to evaluate the performance of the car but my initial concerns are (1) how little clearance there is beneath the back of the chassis and the track (even before tyre sanding) and (2) the hex screws that hold everything together require an Allen key  that is a different size to anything I have in my toolkit.

 

Den

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi i did  a review of the M6a in the Cars section on here  in March 2019 last year and after running these cars for sometime have changed the back tyres to NSR Classics 20-5 x 10 and 21 x 10 to cure the problem of grounding fit the standard wheels fine , like you will need to do i bought a hex screwdriver for the body screws, scale wise it does seem a bit wider but overall looks ok and when run it you will have a very nippy slot car 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

seeing as the Thunderslot owner was an ex NSR owner/partner,   its no surprise that the scale may not be quite right.  a few NSR cars were allegedly in that category as well. 


Shed People Mutual Admiration Society

2 times Australian National Champion

1991-Flexicar 1999- Group 12 Sedan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I clear my McLaren on my Scalextric track with the factory rear tires even after truing.  You will need a .050 Allen wrench or driver. It will also, work on future NSR purchases.  I can measure both the McLaren and NSR 908 tomorrow and report back.   

You will love the performance 
 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well ... after 3 weeks of fiddling and fettling I was able to give my Thunderslot Sunoco McLaren its first race outing yesterday.

In the intervening time I was able to give the car a good look-over and found that in addition to the minimal chassis clearance at the rear, that the outer chassis was twisted/warped , resulting in the right front end almost touching the track. No matter how much I adjusted the front axle adjustment screws I couldn't eliminate the 'twist'

I reinforced the outer chassis with a a couple of lengths of piano wire and trued up a couple of sets of wheels and tyres eventually opting to run a sponge set, which is allowed by our club.

Surprisingly when the body was mounted to chassis it seemed to straighten out the warping.

With a few doubts in my mind I hit the track in Heat 1 and was pleasantly surprised by how well it went, feeling my way cautiously before being a bit more adventurous. My state of euphoria was interrupted by a loose wheel which brought my heat to a premature end.

However in Heats 2 and 3 I was able to post good enough scores to score an outright 3rd place ... just in front of two other racers on the same lap score.

To Peter Gunn and Brumos RSR, thank you for your encouragement and I'm looking forward to the upcoming rounds of our Classic Sports Car series.

I have ordered a harder motor pod to see if that improves the performance even more.

Den

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

G'day Den !,

It will be interesting to compare yours & mine next time you come down to race !  I have the Lola T70 CanAm. First thing I did though was swap the guide out for a more standard wood guide. I didn't much like that wierd Thunderslot guide, but that is purely personal preference.......although it certainly stays in the slot far better after the new one was put in.  Apart from that, a bit of work on the tyres & a goodly amount of weight, I haven't done anything else. I too was tempted to order in the stiffer chassis, but when testing it went so ruddy well, I wasn't too sure that I'd make it worse & didn't want to risk it !

Hope to compare the two soon down in Hobart.

regards

Mal.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your modifying try the Thunderslot wood guide on it , i am now fitting this on many cars here , one reason is i like the front facing grub screws really does stop any wire breakage as the screws nip onto the plastic of the wire so no stress point, secondly you can really lean on ithe car throught the twisty bits, have 4 cars fitted with this guide and a improvement of lap times on all 4 cars, and yes use a hard chassis have 4 thunderslots with these in now and again you can see the differance in lap times especially on a  long track.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Challenge accepted Mal! (malomay) Although I must warn you that my car is currently set up with foam tyres for the Launceston track.

May use my extra pod to set up a rubber-tyred option if pods can be swapped easily without upsetting the current configuration? I'm OK with the existing 'weird guide' ... suits my character.

Thanks for your input too PG. Brumos RSR has provided me with a link to an excellent detailed 'how-to' by DRW21 on another forum.

I won't be sharing that with Mal ... don't want him being any more competitive than he already is. (LOL)

 

Den

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, Peter Gunn said:

If your modifying try the Thunderslot wood guide on it , i am now fitting this on many cars here , one reason is i like the front facing grub screws really does stop any wire breakage as the screws nip onto the plastic of the wire so no stress point, secondly you can really lean on ithe car throught the twisty bits, have 4 cars fitted with this guide and a improvement of lap times on all 4 cars, and yes use a hard chassis have 4 thunderslots with these in now and again you can see the differance in lap times especially on a  long track.

I agree, the TS wood guide makes a difference.   Keep us posted on the showdown Malomay and Big Den.  Money is on Big Den if he makes some minor changes. .....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the vote of confidence Brumos in the 'Tassie Thunderslot Showdown'.

But I'm wondering ... have you found the keys to Fort Knox, or are you just a spendthrift with a sense of humour?

They are the only reasons I can think of why anyone would want to put their money on me in a slot car race!

Den

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi r377

I suppose I could be cute and state that if you're buying parts from Pendle Slot in the UK the difference between the M6A 'stiff' chassis and the 'hard' chassis is 2 pounds and 25 pence! Pendle list the stiff chassis at 8 pounds 75 p, and the hard at 6 pounds 50 p. That's just for the outer chassis - the pod isn't included in that price.

Seriously though, I'd suggest that the stiff chassis may be made of thicker material or perhaps a different material that doesn't flex as much as the hard or standard versions. It's hard to tell from the pictures on the website as they appear identical apart from the different colours.

Which version you'd select would probably depend a lot on the track you're racing on - perhaps a standard set-up for shorter, twistier tracks, harder set-ups for bigger tracks with long straights and flat, sweeping corners?

I bought a hard pod (MTS001G) and mounting hardware (FIX001) in order to experiment with the Sunoco M6A that I purchased a few months ago so I could have an alternative set-up for different tracks.  But I haven't yet used it as I was reluctant to make changes to a car that was working reasonably well. Without access to a local track I am unable to test and tune prior to the infrequent race meetings that I attend.

The following sequence of events demonstrates the perils of last-minute preparation.

1. Classic Sports car final at my former local track - 3rd place (99 laps) just behind the winner (101 laps) despite a rear tyre that was slightly out of true.

2. Practice at distant track (Hobart) with trued-up tyres - smooth handling, fast car doing lap times that were straight out of my dreams, sub-6 seconds.

3. Same track 3 weeks later - a rushed change of tyres to comply with local rules led to the spur gear screw working loose, and jerky performance possibly due to lack of side-play of rear axle. At one stage I had the brakes turned fully down and it was still 'stopping on a dime'!

In an ideal world I would have built up a complete second chassis to experiment with but the M6A outer chassis wasn't available in Australia. Whether I continue with that plan is now academic as the local series has ended and I may only contest one more race in the the Hobart series before the class 'hibernates' for a couple of years.

By then I will be even further beyond my use-by date.

Den

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...