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rob_nz

New NSR Classic Pod with single flange bearing

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Folks I can’t seem to get too many laps out of these in a 908 without a crack forming above the bearing, at about 1pm in terms of position if that makes sense. I don’t glue them in and the pod is crack free before I do a few laps.....

There is plenty of float and am using suspension in the rear positions. The axle is free and nothing seems to be binding or stressed. I am using the 21.5k motor screwed in and will need to stay with that to be competitive I reckon (provided the pod doesn’t fall to bits!) but have been through four or five now one of which was using a 20k I think. 

I have repaired one previously with JB Weld and that seems to be holding up in a P68.....interesting. 

Any ideas would be much appreciated. It’s just these pods I have trouble with and plan to repair these ones but wouldn’t mind them lasting! 

I need to stick with the red extra hard ones to stay within the rules and seem to be the only one breaking them too. Our top builder has shared all his tips and now I think about it I wonder if I need to try slowing down a bit instead of being at the limit :huh:

Cheers very much

Edited by rob_nz
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Glue your bearings in and forget about the cracks until things really crack up/fall to pieces which may never happen.

How tight do the bearings fit....maybe ream the holes slightly on your next pod and glue the bearings in place.

I use loctite and sometimes superglue and sometimes two part epoxy and sometimes....

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John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Alright thank you, yep gluing them in and hoping for the best sounds a plan. I like that idea of opening the holes up a bit on a fresh pod....or two! Cheers

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Hi Rob, The folks in our local clubs' use lots of the NSR 'hard" red pods, with so far, no issues. That said, most of the guys do open the holes very slightly, and, take a little off of the inside of the tops of the fingers/tabs that secure the motor, which allows the motor to be installed without overly stressing the pod. As all of our motors are secured with screws/glue, there is no worry that the motor will move/pop out.

A couple of tips, if I may,.........always install the motor into the pod before  installing/aligning/gluing axle bushings................when a motor is installed, it can cause slight deflection of the rear uprights, and this deflection is enough to "un align" the bushings causing binding. Installing the motor first, eliminates this issue.

Secondly, It is not a bad idea to immerse the pod into some hot tap water for a few seconds, before installing either the motor or bushings............this will tend to soften any brittle pods.

Cheers

Chris Walker

 

PS, If you can get one of these Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings. they are wonderful............they stiffen the rear end, considerably  (which helps greatly with any chatter) and eliminate any potential alignment issues with the axle bushings, as they "lock" the rear uprights. They come with sintered bronze bushings installed, and come in 3 different lengths to accommodate many side/angle winder pods. I have been using them for 10/12yrs+ (they were initially created to eliminate "Ninco" hop), and use them in any chassis where they can be made to fit.

Here is one fitted to an NSR sidewinder pod......

 

DSCN4391.jpg

 

DSCN4390.jpg

Edited by Chrisguyw
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Thanks Chris, what a smart, clean looking build. I must admit I have seen this post elsewhere also admiring the lock nuts too, but didn’t have much success finding the tubes. I should try again - have used brass tubing for bracing just behind and below the axle before but the integrated units must do a better job and in exactly the right place. I noted too the cutaway for motor clearance. 

Cheers for the other info, along with John’s  it’s all now filed away in the ‘why didn’t I think of that’ file.....I won’t be able to use tubing on this car and stay legal but it will definitely feature somewhere sometime. And yes I had been putting the bushings in first!

Definitely sounds like two repair jobs and two new ones to boot. 

Cheers Rob

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Every time I see one of Chris'  clean looking chassis, I hang my head in shame at my maintenance regime.....

Chris - is that the 31mm or the 31.6mm in that chassis? - or will either fit due to tolerances?

Rob - when the new pod came out in the current 908s, the first run were acknowledged as brittle by NSR. They quickly sent Tony a packet of replacement pods from memory, prior to the 2018 classic.
I broke one at that 2018 Challenge right before scrutineering, and had to do a mill and swap for a new pod on the fly on Tony's lathe - with a quick hand from Neil Bidwell.  Tony had and gave out a few replacement pods from NSR that year. I think 3 or 4 had a pod issue in 2018.
But so far as a know, that issue has been overcome now, and I haven't snapped one since. The last pod from Tony I gave to someone else in HB with a first production 908 which had a cracked pod.
Haven't seen any crack in recent times among our club members. So check with Tony - or maybe Westie will poke his head in here with the oracle words.

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Cheers Mark I did lose one early but the others bought progressively over the last wee while so should’ve been from newer batches - maybe! I remember your having to run around a couple of years ago...last year I discovered a crack so ended up running a P68 with old style pod. 

I had repressed the memory but in 2017 I had a well used old style pod give out around a bushing mid-racing requiring a super glue repair and lost about 15 places :wacko: 

So yes pod longevity this year high on my mind! 

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Now now, Mark... “be kind”

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John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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16 hours ago, SlotsNZ said:

 

Chris - is that the 31mm or the 31.6mm in that chassis? - or will either fit due to tolerances?


 

Hi Mark, I honestly can't remember,...........I am away from home for a few days, but will measure and report back then. While there is a bit of leeway, it is obviously better to use the closest size to minimize any pod distortion/stress.

Cheers

Chris Walker 

 

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23 hours ago, SlotsNZ said:

 

Chris - is that the 31mm or the 31.6mm in that chassis? - or will either fit due to tolerances?

 

Hi Mark, Just found the answer on one of my posts elsewhere.............all NSR "triangular" sidewinder pods take the 31mm Sloting Plus axle tube.

The 29.9mm and the 31.6mm tubes will not work without either removing one of the tube flanges, and, or ,modifying the axle mount uprights...........if you can't find a 31mm, the mods needed on the other two sizes are certainly worth the effort however.

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

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You now have two less Mark B)

Chris I will shamelessly follow your lead thank you. 

Cheers for all the help everyone. 
 

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Got a question.  These single sided nsr bearings are damn expensive to buy.

As an idea had anyone cut upwards with a dremmel from the bearing hole and slid a regular bearing down to fit inside the regular hole ?  Would have to glue and stregthen the top part you cut but would this be an idea ?

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Not sure I’d be brave enough! They do just seem brittle to me at the end of the day. Me personally I’d stick with an old style pod if bushings were the decider - someone somewhere put me on to Shoo Goo for gluing in motors and I can confirm its really good. Easy on and relatively tidy looking, also removable. 

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On 9/13/2020 at 10:18 PM, r377 said:

Got a question.  These single sided nsr bearings are damn expensive to buy.

As an idea had anyone cut upwards with a dremmel from the bearing hole and slid a regular bearing down to fit inside the regular hole ?  Would have to glue and stregthen the top part you cut but would this be an idea ?

A better solution maybe would be that I have on occasion just shaved one side off other bushes to turn them into a single flange. - Easily done with a dremel. But you will likely be doing it to "actual" 3/32nd bushes  - ie 2.38mm, not the NSR 2.37mm bushes, so you have to decide carefully what running gear to plan to use with any such bushes.

 

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On 9/18/2020 at 10:38 AM, SlotsNZ said:

A better solution maybe would be that I have on occasion just shaved one side off other bushes to turn them into a single flange. - Easily done with a dremel. But you will likely be doing it to "actual" 3/32nd bushes  - ie 2.38mm, not the NSR 2.37mm bushes, so you have to decide carefully what running gear to plan to use with any such bushes.

 

good one didn't think of that

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On 8/4/2020 at 2:03 AM, Chrisguyw said:

Hi Rob, The folks in our local clubs' use lots of the NSR 'hard" red pods, with so far, no issues. That said, most of the guys do open the holes very slightly, and, take a little off of the inside of the tops of the fingers/tabs that secure the motor, which allows the motor to be installed without overly stressing the pod. As all of our motors are secured with screws/glue, there is no worry that the motor will move/pop out.

A couple of tips, if I may,.........always install the motor into the pod before  installing/aligning/gluing axle bushings................when a motor is installed, it can cause slight deflection of the rear uprights, and this deflection is enough to "un align" the bushings causing binding. Installing the motor first, eliminates this issue.

Secondly, It is not a bad idea to immerse the pod into some hot tap water for a few seconds, before installing either the motor or bushings............this will tend to soften any brittle pods.

Cheers

Chris Walker

 

PS, If you can get one of these Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings. they are wonderful............they stiffen the rear end, considerably  (which helps greatly with any chatter) and eliminate any potential alignment issues with the axle bushings, as they "lock" the rear uprights. They come with sintered bronze bushings installed, and come in 3 different lengths to accommodate many side/angle winder pods. I have been using them for 10/12yrs+ (they were initially created to eliminate "Ninco" hop), and use them in any chassis where they can be made to fit.

Here is one fitted to an NSR sidewinder pod......

 

DSCN4391.jpg

 

DSCN4390.jpg

Hi there Chris - about to get handy with one of those tubes but if you don’t mind I’d appreciate any tips on removing that section. Is it just filed down? Cheers very much

Edited by rob_nz
Unfinished

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10 hours ago, rob_nz said:

Hi there Chris - about to get handy with one of those tubes but if you don’t mind I’d appreciate any tips on removing that section. Is it just filed down? Cheers very much

Hello Rob,........You could file it, but, it will take a while :D............I use a dremel/cut off disc to take off most of the material, and then clean it up with a file.

The cut off disc will cut the tube quickly and easily. Take a bit at a time, you only need to take enough so that the face of the axle (closest to the motor can) is just proud of the tube.

Use a file to just score the inside edges of the pod bushing holes, and glue the tube in..............the use of this tube is a very worthwhile modification on any pod where it will fit (sidewinder/anglewinder).

Hope this helps

Cheers

Chris Walker

Another example.......this one was done years ago to an older Ninco (no pod ) chassis. I did rebuild the motor box to add rear end stiffness,  and added some adjustable front axle blocks.

It was one of my quickest/best handling cars......it has been given to a new owner, and is still winning club events.

In this case, the angle of the motor did not require any mods. to the axle tube.

DSCN4187-copy.jpg

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OK thanks Chris I do have a Dremel but have only used it for grinding and polishing to date......some practice runs with a cutting disc first are in order I would say! Then a deep breath :o

Cheers Rob

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